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**aamirjamal** · 09-03-2011, 09:32 PM

A month and a little more...

It's been a little more than a month since I got my 180ABS and I had added a petrol lock [due to all my friends telling me to]. I don't know if it is due to the petrol lock or something else, but whenever I am cruising at a specific RPM, the engine feels like there's something trying to stop it for a second or two(I feel a certain deceleration), then this goes away. It happens almost regularly

.

Another thing I would like to point out is that my Idle RPM when I start the bike goes a little over the 1k mark. But while riding when I fully engage the clutch to change a gear, the RPM sticks to the 2k mark or a bit more than that. If I loosen the clutch halfway and grab it again, it sometimes goes back to 1k or doesn't go low at all. What could be the problem?

Please help me out since I'm relatively a n00b in this field.

**nick1979** · 09-03-2011, 10:01 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

You mean the speed reading is not there and the odo (kilometers sweeped) reading ain't increasing and rest all like clock, fuel etc are working, is it? If so, then your speedo sensor's connector may've been loosen, got water in it or might have gone kaput. If its gone, then you need to replace the speedo sensor cable (sensor comes embedded in a cable) is needed to be replaced. 400 buck damage, but for you its all free under warranty

By the way, before just blasting some bad words on the mechanic, check if it is just a loose connector

yup u r right, but how do i check the loose connector myself bfore going to mach,,

**Garry_Menace** · 09-03-2011, 10:35 PM

Originally posted by aamirjamal View Post

It's been a little more than a month since I got my 180ABS and I had added a petrol lock [due to all my friends telling me to]. I don't know if it is due to the petrol lock or something else, but whenever I am cruising at a specific RPM, the engine feels like there's something trying to stop it for a second or two(I feel a certain deceleration), then this goes away. It happens almost regularly

.

Another thing I would like to point out is that my Idle RPM when I start the bike goes a little over the 1k mark. But while riding when I fully engage the clutch to change a gear, the RPM sticks to the 2k mark or a bit more than that. If I loosen the clutch halfway and grab it again, it sometimes goes back to 1k or doesn't go low at all. What could be the problem?

Please help me out since I'm relatively a n00b in this field.

Lean. You're running lean.

Originally posted by nick1979 View Post

yup u r right, but how do i check the loose connector myself bfore going to mach,,

You can see a cable going down along the left front shocker rod. Thats the speedo sensor cable. You can trace it upwards and near the console you'll find a "joint" in the wire, i.e., the connector. Try inserting it inwards, I mean tighten it by pushing both sides inwards. Anyways, I don't think its just loose. It may have water or it has gone kaput. So, better take it to SVC and get a free replacement under warranty if its gone

(I just got it replaced couple of months ago under warranty

)

**nick1979** · 09-03-2011, 10:46 PM

Right thanx, better check with svc...

**aamirjamal** · 09-04-2011, 03:37 AM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Lean. You're running lean.

HOw do I fix this?

**Mirhawk** · 09-04-2011, 11:27 AM

Originally posted by Mirhawk View Post

Even I have the same issue. Like, if I reach at least up to 7k rpm and higher in first two gears, then only am I able to reach a 90km/hr +, else bike struggles at 70km/hr. During My 2nd servicing, I had mentioned this issue. But all they had done was increased My idle RPM, that too at 2k rpm!!

ODO reading is 2500km.
Also noticed one more thing, whenever I brake using rear one, there is some of this screaching type of noise and sometimes when I brake, I get a "khat-khat" noise. Any specific reason why this might be?

If somebody could help.

**yogesh12_RTR180** · 09-04-2011, 11:47 AM

guys few out of box questions...

1. Wat is use of spit fire and nrg iridium spark plug over stock stuffs?
2. wat is use of using synthetic oil (rs. 850~ instead of 315rs castrol power1 oil).. if i put synthetic then wat is duration to change oil?

3. recently i installed rectifier, mech told it will boost up charging rate in battery (as i installed projected light and roots windtone horn and it drains my battery a lot... previously had lots and lots of [probs, but yest after installing it, i din had any prob, when when i reached home, battery was fully down!!!!)

guys pls help!

**Rtrlover83** · 09-04-2011, 03:02 PM

^^
1. Benefits of using Iridium Spark Plug could be found if you check some previous pages. The said plug would perform fine with the stock coil, cable and cap. I've just started using the NGK IR plug, yes with the stock wire set (cable) itself.

2. Go through the Engine Oils thread in xBhp.com itself.

3. No idea

**gautam_k** · 09-04-2011, 03:23 PM

Originally posted by yogesh12_RTR180 View Post

3. recently i installed rectifier, mech told it will boost up charging rate in battery (as i installed projected light and roots windtone horn and it drains my battery a lot... previously had lots and lots of [probs, but yest after installing it, i din had any prob, when when i reached home, battery was fully down!!!!)

guys pls help!

post this query in the lights thread
but before that find out what exactly has your mech done? And projector lights means you must have fitted an HID with it too. And HID needs DC. So what im guessing is your mech has put the HID's load on your battery and that is eating up your battery. But if he has added an extra rectifier unit, that means he must have used the original AC headlight wire to charge the battery by rectifying it with the new added rectifier.
Just clarify what exactly has been done and post in the lights thread.

**yogesh12_RTR180** · 09-04-2011, 03:52 PM

Originally posted by gautam_k View Post

post this query in the lights thread
but before that find out what exactly has your mech done? And projector lights means you must have fitted an HID with it too. And HID needs DC. So what im guessing is your mech has put the HID's load on your battery and that is eating up your battery. But if he has added an extra rectifier unit, that means he must have used the original AC headlight wire to charge the battery by rectifying it with the new added rectifier.
Just clarify what exactly has been done and post in the lights thread.

light switches on when i start bike... without ignition it works... previously it worked only when i started ignition.. ya i posted there a day ago but still in approval...

**Garry_Menace** · 09-04-2011, 04:57 PM

Originally posted by aamirjamal View Post

HOw do I fix this?

Have to re-tune the carb. I strongly recommend NOT to fiddle with it. Let some experienced mechanic do that.

**A4D** · 09-04-2011, 05:41 PM

Originally posted by aamirjamal View Post

It's been a little more than a month since I got my 180ABS and I had added a petrol lock [due to all my friends telling me to]. I don't know if it is due to the petrol lock or something else, but whenever I am cruising at a specific RPM, the engine feels like there's something trying to stop it for a second or two(I feel a certain deceleration), then this goes away. It happens almost regularly

.

Another thing I would like to point out is that my Idle RPM when I start the bike goes a little over the 1k mark. But while riding when I fully engage the clutch to change a gear, the RPM sticks to the 2k mark or a bit more than that. If I loosen the clutch halfway and grab it again, it sometimes goes back to 1k or doesn't go low at all. What could be the problem?

Please help me out since I'm relatively a n00b in this field.

Hiii i Had faced the same probem too where the bike will give jerks or the rev will go high but the bike wont speed up....Checked everything possible from carb to fuel line to petrol quality but the problem was with the box under the tank which is if im not wrong green or red in color,this box is connected to the throttle cable they will adjust it and it will be all good try it ..

**aamirjamal** · 09-04-2011, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Have to re-tune the carb. I strongly recommend NOT to fiddle with it. Let some experienced mechanic do that.

Originally posted by A4D View Post

Hiii i Had faced the same probem too where the bike will give jerks or the rev will go high but the bike wont speed up....Checked everything possible from carb to fuel line to petrol quality but the problem was with the box under the tank which is if im not wrong green or red in color,this box is connected to the throttle cable they will adjust it and it will be all good try it ..

@Garry_Menace - That sure sounds like something I should not play with :/

@A4D - I'll goto the SVC once and ask him if that is the case.

Thanks for your opinion people

**yogesh12_RTR180** · 09-04-2011, 07:39 PM

Originally posted by gautam_k View Post

post this query in the lights thread
but before that find out what exactly has your mech done? And projector lights means you must have fitted an HID with it too. And HID needs DC. So what im guessing is your mech has put the HID's load on your battery and that is eating up your battery. But if he has added an extra rectifier unit, that means he must have used the original AC headlight wire to charge the battery by rectifying it with the new added rectifier.
Just clarify what exactly has been done and post in the lights thread.

thanks gautam i have posted... in help section too..

**Garry_Menace** · 09-04-2011, 09:14 PM

Originally posted by A4D View Post

Hiii i Had faced the same probem too where the bike will give jerks or the rev will go high but the bike wont speed up....Checked everything possible from carb to fuel line to petrol quality but the problem was with the box under the tank which is if im not wrong green or red in color,this box is connected to the throttle cable they will adjust it and it will be all good try it ..

Thats TPS, i.e., Throttle Positioning System. Though I appreciate that you shared your experience and it is a good thing for all of us

, but yours was a particular case for faulty TPS. I mean, it isn't necessary that this problem arises only due to faulty TPS. First, one have to get the basic things checked and if the problem still persists, one can move on further and check the TPS, TCI etc.

Originally posted by aamirjamal View Post

@Garry_Menace - That sure sounds like something I should not play with :/

Thanks for your opinion people

Exactly

Its not that one can't tune the carb himself, but once the settings get bad, it could ruin your bike's response, mileage and performance. Thats why I recommend not to play with the sensitive things and leave it for the experts

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