BTW...

Today when i start my ZMR it does not start...battery is fine...everything is working i.e. headlight, horns...

What will be a reason?

Also, is there a Oil Filter in ZMR...if yes, has some change it? and when it need to be changed?

yes ...i have changed oil filter at around 12,000kms
that to under warranty

Where it is located...whats an actual cost?

Ok but i want Extra 2 Eyes not the main . I found interesting place in my ZMR to fit projectors there . And will not use them all time just as to flash when someone with HID or 100/120W come from front ( to show him Jalwaa... )

20w40 oil will be relatively more viscous/thicker than 10w30 oil. That means 20w40 will stick to the walls better but it will be tougher to pump.

Oil grade - "xx" W "yy"
where xx - viscosity index rating of oil at 0 deg Celsius
and yy - viscosity index rating of oil at 100 deg Celsius.

@Bold - Does that mean we have to use HH oil only? If we use same grade oil of other company, then also warranty will be void??

Which place is that

near fuel pump !
around 90Rs

The difference between oil grades is better explained in the engine oils thread ... suffice to say here that I feel better to use 20w40 in summer here ,over the recommended 10w30 because 10w30 oils are not supposed to be used in engines where it shall be operating over 30C ambient , and certainly not at 40C ambient for prolonged use . This recommendation is made by all oil/motorcycle/car companies in the world . At temperatures much below zero however , where oil flow at initial cranking is of larger concern than engine heat wear , 10w30 is better . I would not depend on a 10w30 oil to maintain film strength and provide optimum engine protection when I am riding out there when the street temperature in sun is past 45C , which I have measured .
I do not believe that all HeroHonda bikes already owned by people countrywide suddenly developed a weakness in their oil pumps , as to be unable to pump a 20w40 oil ( they themselves were recomendding servo 20w40 in their manuals ) ; no sooner than herohonda started to market their own rebottled 10w30 oil .
Yes , as per the conditions laid down in the user manuals (haven't read the whole of my cbz manual , have read all pages of my splendor manual ) the warranty shall be void if you use ANY other oil than the HeroHonda super duper 4T plus snake oil, no matter the make or grade . They go as far as to put a sticker saying this on the splendor tank .

As i am busy with exams so my ZMR is in rest for a month . Today i tried to start it but the bike wont start , no starter running just a tick sound from relay. Tried 4 , 5 times but no luck . Then just turned on the headlight & pressed started & bike started. I thought i got battery down but then why it starts with headlight on ? Any Clue ?


Air windows for Horns , just below headlamp. Will place horns in other area .





Just found this video on youtube , i like the coloured alloy wheels of this guy

A few ZMA owners have switched to Motul W50 with good result, and as I had already opined , I will be moving to w50 in my next oil change.

ZMR Tyre Replacement

Friends last week I had a skid over a turning on my ZMR. I some hoe feel that they should have provided with a lot better tyres for the price we have paid for the bike. Anyways I'm looking to change my tyres and need your inputs.

[I have read around 200 posts on ZMR tyre options and they confused me lot more. Please excuse me for the repeated question]

1) I stay in hyd and just wanted to know the best place to change the tyres - HH showroom or a dealer?

2) What is the best tyres for city commuting.

3) Is it better to change both the tyres

4) Which are the best replacements for front and back tyres. Basically looking for quick replacements without any mods like cutting the chain covers etc.

5) My current tyres have rub around 750km. So roughly how much can I expect for them?

6) Will changing the tyres void the warranty? Even if done at HH showroom??

7) Best place in Hyderabad to replace the tyres

Awaiting for inputs from you friends. I'm planning to change the tyres this weekend. So your valuable inputs will be very helpful for me.

Replies in bold.

@psr'jee
Since I do not own the mighty ZMR myself but hope to someday , so I lurk this ownership thread ... Can you tell me , the ZMR is supposed to be oil cooled by circulating this same engine oil thru a separate radiator arrangement ... does it also have a separate oil pump & reservoir for that ?
would this external circulation system handle the 20wt oils ok ? does the bike heat up easily in use during summer noon in indian plains ?

Self-start failed.

Hi All,

Just 35 days before i took my YELLOW ZMR in bangalore and i made 2007kms. And really i had a very worst experience when i had a travel from chennai to bangalore, were my self-start failed in middle of that By-pass road because of some wiring issues then i loaded my bike in a load auto and took it to the kanchipuram Hero honda showroom were they rectified all the things and they told the first service which were done in bangalore " SAI RAM MOTORS " its of useless.......And now my question is whether anyone faced the same problem...
And clutch wire also got cut in 1600 kms and i replaced that in SOUTHERN MOTORS, NANDANAM( CHENNAI )..

Yes there are no issues with oil grades being different, and ZMR by virtue of a oil cooler runs less hot than ZMA WHEN NEW.But after 3to 4 K kms they both are same except ZMR produces 0.60 bhp more than ZMA,and is fuel injected.This also means if you ride it sanely you will get upto a max of 50 Kms/L.....but i think 45 is more realistic...So as for as oil is concerned you can feed it any JASO MA2 oil of 20W 40 or W50 grade without issues..
The common problems as reported with ZMR are:
1. Random report of the fuel pump failure..... leaving you stranded...spares not easily available.
2. Starter Motor being indigenous made by Lucas, fails at random and draws heavy current.
3. Issues with wire harness are reported....both loose contact and wire going bad.
4. Without a crash guard the full fairing in ZMR is more prone to costly damage than a ZMA.
5. Getting to the spark plug or internal is more tedious and requires special skill, as compared to ZMA.