Cylinder head threads damaged - Options and suggestions

Hi all,

I have a RE STD 350 Cast Iron 2009 June Model that has done just 3600KM. I have been very careful with the way the bike is used and also made sure the servicing is always done properly. Recently I noticed that the threads for the spark plug on the Cylinder head has been damaged. I was able to put back the plug with a little force and the bike is perfectly alright. I have not noticed any drop in performance or average per liter since.

I have been told that this is a fairly common problem among most bullets because of bad metallurgy and this happens with many bikes over period of time. I was also told that it is not necessary that the threads got damaged on the day I notice and that they must have been damaged the last time the plug was put back in.

I am summarizing the options as given below

1) weld some metal in place of the damaged threads and then rethread it. ( will cost close to 700)

2) Put a bush made of stainless steel/brass ( say will cost anywhere between 500 to 1000)

3) Change the cylinder head altogether. ( costs 4900 here in Mumbai)


Here are my queries

1) Considering the future, will it be safe to go for any of the first two options

2) Which one of the first two is better in terms of long term reliability.

3) Will this involve changing the engine valves as well, as one of the mechanic has said? I am doubtful about this as the bike has just done 3600km and that too have never abused it.

Please reply with your inputs and suggestions.

THanks

Srikanth

Tbts

Hey guys,

Wanted to get myself an enfield for a long time...Went thro al your views and decided to book myself a TBTS.
Am very new to this forum...so al ur advice on take proper care of The Royal will be useful..
This is my first bike...and really excited about it...
sad news is the bike lead time is 8 months...wonder what Royal enfield guys are doin with their production capacity...i booked it at the enfield brand store in jayanagar....drove my friends classic 350....and then took a test ride on tbts...like u al say....its a royal feeling to ride a bullet....guess the waiting period is goin to be very painful yet exciting....

^^ Congrats, and do get the handlebar position adjusted prior to delivery to your comfort. To save space, they adjust the handlebars to a higher than normal position on the T-Bird.

Update: Went to the mechanic today, as the servicing was almost due anyway.
Mech said changing the kick lever O-ring is not necessary. He opened the gearbox outer cover and added a gasket under/ behind the main shaft bearing cap, as oil had leaked from the inner gearbox via the bearing (Outer gearbox is mostly dry, only contains grease on the few moving parts). The gasket is not fitted from the factory, but apparently is part of the aftermarket gasket kit.
No need to access the inner part of the gearbox today. Will the job hold or not remains to be seen.

Hi, I have not experienced the problem, nor am I am expert, so anybody feel free to ignore my views or correct me.
Srikanth, I would not go for option 3 right now, simply because of the cost difference. Why not try the cheaper alternatives first? I don't think they will cause any long-term damage.
And, option 2 does not seem so good since the bush will be made of brass or SS. The expansion coefficient of metals varies, so that joint might become weak.
Try option 1 first.
Go to other mechanics and get their views about the valves. They should not be affected. Methinks that mech is trying to scalp you.
The threads should not get damaged unless the spark plug had been tightened in too much. Ideally, after tightening it by hand, it's enough to give it a quarter-turn with the wrench (or even less). And don't forget the spark plug washer. Look at its shape: It's job is to get sqeezed and take some of the pressure.

Guys what is the cost of a new bore piston kit for a Std 350 CI ? Is it available in bangalore ?

Hi All,

I am new to this forum...and i bought a classic 350 last week...i installed roots horn(pair)...and a day after my battery got discharged...i went to service station but no use...any one faced the same??? please advice...should i revert back to stock horn???

Thanks
Stephen

Chain query

Hey guys just wanted to ask, i guess all the Enfield Bikes sport a half chain cover even the Bullet Standard so are the drive chains O-ring seal type or standard?
Just wanted to know for knowledge sake,hope you guys answer.

Guys, I've been deciding on a bike for months now, and I'm finally giving in (happily) to my old man's advice to buy a bullet or the Bajaj Avenger.
I don't think the Bajaj's pillion seat is too good, so I'm counting it out.

So, out of the bulls, which one should I go for? The STD or Electra?
I'm going to be doing Ladakh and other such trips with my dad riding pillion.

Suggestions?

thank you for your suggestion.

======

Hi Shobon,

Thanks for your reply with the details man. I checked with a lot of mechanics and also bulleteers here in Mumbai as well. I am told this will be as good as a new head if done properly.

I got the fix during the last servicing in the weekend and things do seem to be back to normal. There are no oil leakages or driping from the head in anyway.

Newbie question on trip in a new bike

Hi guys,
I got my TBTS on 1st December. Here are the minor problems i faced so far.
Gasket at the silencer bend pipe-engine joint got loose - fixed it on first service done at 370kms
Rear brake pedal position not correct - Fixed at first service
Center stand banging against silencer when I lift the stand up - Unresolved. What to do??
Engine noise - Trying to live with it. But sometimes feel sad about selling my standard 350.
Rust problems - I am trying to take care by cleaning the bike regularly but I do live near Chennai beach. So got to live with it.
Clutch release at start not so smooth (sometimes). This occurs during traffic- Service person told this will get smoother during course of time, and I feel it is improving.
Kick starting do not give the satisfaction which my STD350 used to give.

Apart from these little niggles, I liked the bike a lot.

Now odo is at 650 and I am trying to run in the bike at 70 and planning to stay there till 1000Kms.

My concern is about my journey from Chennai to Vellore 130kms one side (highway cruising) which I have to take this Friday (probably odo will read 800). Climate should be hot. Can I go in my bike or should I wait till I cover 1K - 1.5K? Please advice.

Hyd-Bangalore solo ride

YeeHaHa!! can't help but gloat!
Did the Hyd-Bangalore solo ride last saturday.
I had been asking for a transfer for the last few months, and it finally came through. Spent a few days out of office getting a NOC, sent off my luggage, and thumped off myself.
Ride was good to the point of boring - except at Obulapuram farmers carrying red flags blocked the highway at noon. Spent 15 mins there. Total journey took 14 hours - same as the Volvo buses almost.
Although the bike is in a bad shape now - timing's haywire, and there are funny noises from the driving gear.
Anybody know of any good mechanic near Jayanagar/ BTM/ Electronic City area? Nandan being at Hebbal will be very far away.

I've bought a thunderbird two days ago.
Can someone please tell me the running in RPM upto 500 km?

^^ anything upto 3000 rpm is ok. Dont over rev, and dont accelerate suddenly. Keep it smooth and keep the engine stress free. Dont be in a high gear at low rpm, and dont try and accelerate like that. Let each gear stretch slightly so that the engine is not running loaded.

Of charging currents and alternator ratings

Hi,
First, let me mention that I am interested in the figures for the Std. 350, 4 wire alternator, KS, 12V, 5A battery. However, feel free to give your input for other models also (just as long as you give the details).
I observed (on a long, untroubled by traffic, highway ride) that the alternator is able to charge the battery PLUS power the DC lights and AC headlight at speeds of 50 kmph or above. At 40 or below, there is more drain instead of charging. How did I check? Simple: Ride at 40-45 with all lights ON for 2 mins, ammeter is slightly in RED/ middle. Then speed up to 50. If the ammeter goes to GREEN, and then comes back to the middle after a few mins, that means (a) battery required charging. (b) speed of 50 provided that.
Did the same thing quite a few times until sure of the speed thing. (Oh yes, 4th gear).
Questions:
1. Are my results accurate i.e. can anybody else validate the figures?
2. What is the engine speed/ alternator speed when at 50 kmph?
3. What is the alternator output at the above speed and what is the maximum output of the alternator?

I had fitted two fog lamps (2X55W), but now they don't work. The electrician said he had connected them to run off the alternator, not the battery. But when I verified his connections with the wiring diagram in the User Manual, it seemed he has connected them to the battery. Connection is done such that fog lamps will work when headlight switch is in middle position (headlight OFF, running lights and other lights ON)
I am thinking of tapping the AC wires as the come out of the alternator (the 4 wire connection outside the alt, lying on top of the gearbox).

Saw a RE one evening: headlight plus two fog lamps plus running lamps ON. Was too far away - didn't get a chance to catch up (not even sure which model of RE).
My apologies for the long post, would appreciate your comments/ experiences.

EDITED: I checked the diagram again. The fog lamps are connected to the AC system, not the battery. But then why don't they work?