Re: Pulsar 150 garage

air pipe or drain pipe ?
dear you need to clean the carb. (esp. float and its jet)....also clean whole fuel supply line....you need to dump all fuel from the fuel tank and clean the pet cock....this problem usually happens when one rides his bike to last drop of fuel without refueling....the settled dust, rust and impurities in the fuel tank passes to the carb. causing improper/incomplete seating of the float hence fuel leakage....
temporary cure is to tie couple of tight knots on the draining pipe....

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

AFAIK 33-34SWG is generally used in ignition coil winding...I am familiar with auto and power transformer winding as one of my friend has stabliser manufacturing business...my pulsar always had starting problem using kick lever even i had to press self longer to start it...after some research i came to know that low ignition coil voltage can also cause this prob.....so want to increase some turns in it....IMO pulsar's coil is the worst wounded among all brands....thanks for your concern, I have one spare coil...it will be helpful if i get information regarding no. of turns...also it will help me if you could measure voltage of lighting, charging and ignition coil at these RPMs 2000, 4000 and 5000 (before RR or CDI)
Thanks

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Thanks today I noticed a weird problem. While riding to nandi hills at some point of time fuel got over and while riding itself when I turned the fuel knob to reserve it gave a sudden electric shock. I just got confused wats tat.....tts no effect to bike but I don't know y it happened and now I am afraid to turn the fuel knob while riding as I am frightened that again if it gives an electric shock,..,...wats tis huys

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Hello guys this is my pulsar's exhaust sound on warmed up engine.
Looking forward to your comments..

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Hi Art,

not to oppose you.. But Pulsar stator coil is generally a good winded one.. But ont know whether its winded by hand or by machine... My 10 yrs old Pulsar UG2 is an example of it..

may be your one has a problem i think...

For your knowledge and long long discussions that has went on "Make bike full DC" thread... maximum ac voltage reported in many bikes rewonded stators (Uni. apache etc) was in and around 70-80 volts max ac from all the poles rewinded...

Some even said that pulsar magnet is weak and unicorn magnet is strong and so on.. i donot say pulsar is great or waste... let me give you readings...

Just plonk in AVY180 original stator and just check the 3 charging poles.. u will get 75+ volts max ac... No kidding here... That means just 3 poles voltage is exceeding the above bikes total rewounded stators.....

then what will be the total 7 poles ac voltage of normal avy stator ...?????

i have rewounded the avy180 stator and the voltage crossed a whooping 120-130 volts ac and i have never heard of such huge voltage atleast in this forum.. i have checked with two Dmms... Its a fact..!!!!

so dont underestimate your Pulsar...!!!!

"my pulsar always had starting problem using kick lever even i had to press self longer to start it"

no Honda can start with a single kick... but Pulsar will start in a single kick.. Please inquire it anywhere...

The longer time for the bike to start during self operation for bikes upto UG3 is due to: when you press self the magnet should rotate enough around yellow(ign) coil to produce high voltage then transfer it to CDI.. there multiply the voltage and then the spark will be produced... UUUfffffffff... but the kick will be strong enough to produce that effect....

From UG4... just press the self the current goes from battery to cdi.. then bang...!!!! this is what makes the self of UG4s a feather..!!

Theres no way to make the bikes upto UG3 self smoother.. only way is to make DC ignition and its not a hard job....

Adv of UG3 over UG4: If your yellow coil and pickup coil is good.. nothing is needed in your bike to make your bike move..!!! but UG4 the battery should be good and AFAIK the RR should also be good for a bike to start...!!! The DC cdi of pulsar AFAIK doesnt contain any ac to dc conversion mechanism..!!!

As for your inquiry:

I have checked voltage of lighting going max to 13.2-13.3-13.5 v volts max (from RR).. and if we throttle more the voltage reduces and voltage will not be constant and fluctuates like crazy.. may be shunting effect i guess..

For charging the voltage for UG2 UG3 (both are same) never crosses 13.5-13.8v DC voltage(from RR)... But using a AVY stator and AVY RR the voltage goes upto 15.2v(from AVY RR). As i stated above the ac voltage from AVY stator crosses 75v+ ac from charging poles and for the lighting its the same 13.5-13.4volts fluctuating ac..!!!

The ignition coil as i said in previous post surpasses whooping 200+ volts ac.. but i didnt checked at a particular RPM...

The controlled voltages from RR i stated above is max.. it will not go beyond it...

But as for ac is concerned i max rev the bike around 7-8 RPM and i never throttled to the top.. you know the reason... houses and families in and around and also not good for electricals while bike is not moving...!!! If i had revved to the top may be results will be more than i stated above..!!

befor finalising on your ignition coil.. Please check for CDI, Black coil(pickup coil in stator) (should produce around 2 to 3 to 4 volts ac may be 3-4 is max) and finally High tension coils (which gives current for your sparkplugs) black/white coloured.

CDI check is must..!!! it is mostly culprit...!!!

cheers,

Did i made bore..??? haha...

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Hi dude..

At the end its popping sound right...??? May be a lean mixture (more air)....

may be you know it but i will pen down it... to confirm it go to a hill uproad area.. ride down your bike down hill.. engage in 2nd or 3rd gear or higher gear.. just leave it and dont throttle or engage clutch... if you observe popping sound it is definitely a lean mixture.. also you to determine it by seeing plug...

I can also tell my special way ... lean mixture pulsar bike will be hotter right..??
to know it ride around your city for a good amount of time... more than 30 minutes... now try to hold the bottom of kick rod where there is a curve... you should observe a no heat/medium temp that you can feel comfortably... but not a high/hot temp.. you are getting what i am saying right..???

in the other cases it may be worn out silencer.. but i think your bikes silencer is good...

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Hi Suman...

nothing to worry.. it is may be due to static electricity...
just google it.. No worries.... Cheers...

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Thanks for your inputs man.
I'll upload another one of riding sound and it's pure eargasm.
The sound is looking like a pop because I held the phone too close to the exhaust.
Actually I used two phones but the audio of lumia was a little high pitched and unnatural.

Although the bike does pop very rarely on a hot engine.
Spark plug comes out reddish brown every time.
And in 5 years of ownership I've never faced a cold start problem.
You're spot on about DC ignition the bike just starts with a bang no matter what weather or how long it's kept idle.
I can barely even hear the starter motor spin unlike my friends UG3.

The reason for the good exhaust sound is because my bike was mostly used on highways.
Dude enlighten us more on the electrical capabilities of pulsar.
I have no clue what this beast can do(Ironically I'm an Electrical Engineer)

Pulser 150 (2012 model) Engine vibration and low oil problem

Hello Friends,

I am using my pulsar 150 sins last 3 years without any problem.
it has ran 25000km now.

Recently my bike stop during run, when i went to nearby mechanic for quick repair.
he said that there is low pressure in engine, and he did some twik and bike started.

later i wend to service center for checkup , and mechanic said that there is only 300ml oil in the bike.
however bike ran just 1000km after the last oil top up.

so finaly they told me that cylinder head of engine will be changes and total cost will be 8k

gyus i need your help in this situation, are the simturns are valid to change cylender hjear o there is some other problem.

Please reply.

Thanks

Re: Pulser 150 (2012 model) Engine vibration and low oil problem

they are charging more the cost must be around 4k

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

[QUOTE=Srinivas sr143sr;1157302]Hi Art,

not to oppose you.. But Pulsar stator coil is generally a good winded one.. But ont know whether its winded by hand or by machine... My 10 yrs old Pulsar UG2 is an example of it..

may be your one has a problem i think...

For your knowledge and long long discussions that has went on "Make bike full DC" thread... maximum ac voltage reported in many bikes rewonded stators (Uni. apache etc) was in and around 70-80 volts max ac from all the poles rewinded...

Some even said that pulsar magnet is weak and unicorn magnet is strong and so on.. i donot say pulsar is great or waste... let me give you readings...

Just plonk in AVY180 original stator and just check the 3 charging poles.. u will get 75+ volts max ac... No kidding here... That means just 3 poles voltage is exceeding the above bikes total rewounded stators.....

then what will be the total 7 poles ac voltage of normal avy stator ...?????

i have rewounded the avy180 stator and the voltage crossed a whooping 120-130 volts ac and i have never heard of such huge voltage atleast in this forum.. i have checked with two Dmms... Its a fact..!!!!

so dont underestimate your Pulsar...!!!!

"my pulsar always had starting problem using kick lever even i had to press self longer to start it"

no Honda can start with a single kick... but Pulsar will start in a single kick.. Please inquire it anywhere...

The longer time for the bike to start during self operation for bikes upto UG3 is due to: when you press self the magnet should rotate enough around yellow(ign) coil to produce high voltage then transfer it to CDI.. there multiply the voltage and then the spark will be produced... UUUfffffffff... but the kick will be strong enough to produce that effect....

From UG4... just press the self the current goes from battery to cdi.. then bang...!!!! this is what makes the self of UG4s a feather..!!

Theres no way to make the bikes upto UG3 self smoother.. only way is to make DC ignition and its not a hard job....

Adv of UG3 over UG4: If your yellow coil and pickup coil is good.. nothing is needed in your bike to make your bike move..!!! but UG4 the battery should be good and AFAIK the RR should also be good for a bike to start...!!! The DC cdi of pulsar AFAIK doesnt contain any ac to dc conversion mechanism..!!!

As for your inquiry:

I have checked voltage of lighting going max to 13.2-13.3-13.5 v volts max (from RR).. and if we throttle more the voltage reduces and voltage will not be constant and fluctuates like crazy.. may be shunting effect i guess..

For charging the voltage for UG2 UG3 (both are same) never crosses 13.5-13.8v DC voltage(from RR)... But using a AVY stator and AVY RR the voltage goes upto 15.2v(from AVY RR). As i stated above the ac voltage from AVY stator crosses 75v+ ac from charging poles and for the lighting its the same 13.5-13.4volts fluctuating ac..!!!

The ignition coil as i said in previous post surpasses whooping 200+ volts ac.. but i didnt checked at a particular RPM...

The controlled voltages from RR i stated above is max.. it will not go beyond it...

But as for ac is concerned i max rev the bike around 7-8 RPM and i never throttled to the top.. you know the reason... houses and families in and around and also not good for electricals while bike is not moving...!!! If i had revved to the top may be results will be more than i stated above..!!

befor finalising on your ignition coil.. Please check for CDI, Black coil(pickup coil in stator) (should produce around 2 to 3 to 4 volts ac may be 3-4 is max) and finally High tension coils (which gives current for your sparkplugs) black/white coloured.

CDI check is must..!!! it is mostly culprit...!!!

cheers,

Did i made bore..??? haha...

Thanks for the informative post....
Actually I am talking of Ignition coil only....I have mentioned my bike's problem in earlier posts...the bike is running on the same coil....its heating and the ignition coil is showing low resistance indicating its shortening and heating....the lighting and charging coil has ideal resistance.....the bike is having starting problem....I had to loose the left starting plug to loose some compression as the weak spark is not firing the engine under full compression...During starting only it misfires , after idling it runs smooth ....will though check the suggested component soon....
coil rewinding was in my plan...don't you think that too much voltage output(more turns) from the charging or lighting coil will heat the RR Unit more due to shunting....Instead more current using thick wires (less turns) will be ideal...correct me if wrong....using 7 poles with thick wire will compensate number of turns....as voltage is dependent on number of turns and current to the cross-section area or the thickness... rewinding all the 7 poles has confused me...BTW I am planning to use 55/65watt halogen bulb and Ape RR.....
kindly throw some light on dc ignition conversion in ug3
you didn't bored me instead forced me to think deeply...thanks

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dear
did they asked to change "cylinder head" or block-piston....BTW block piston change with 25k on odo is too early....your pulsar is burning oil, check for white smoke from exhaust on revving high....
first you better check for any oil leakage. Apart from busted rings and block-piston leaky valves can also cause oil consumption.
IMO at 25k your bike might have leaky valves....get it checked properly
FYI block-piston kit cost-Rs.1700, valves-Rs.400 + misc.+labor charges

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Thank you guys for valuable responses.
I will take my bike to service center this Monday, and provide update.
Thanks!!

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

.

I gave my p150 to asc but even after that it leaks whenever I off my bike whether it on main stand or side stand or when waiting in traffic it starts leaking drop by drop after a minute and keeps on increasing the rate of leaking from drain pipe until I turn the fuel to off position. When I again took it to asc they told its petrol problem which has rusted the float needle. I wonder so the quality of float made by Bajaj is so worse that it rusts in just six months. He had cleaned the carb when I gave him first time the problem started. Again same problem. Help me xbhp xperts to keep my darling in good health. I love her a lot.......(Bajaj pulsar 150 ug 4.5 dressed to thrill version ebony black clocked 9000 kms since 6 months)...plz help

Simple mods for pulsar 150

I want to make my front tyre 90/90 and Bach 110/80 .....is it possible and if yes will it have any of the bikes factor affected such as performance,handling,etc at the same time can I change the handle bars to p180 and if yes does it affect handling of my bike...plz help xbhpians
Owner of a p150 ug4.5 ebony black dressed to thrill version which has clocked 9000kms till now and has clocked a top speed of 116kmph alongside using bajaj dtsi oil

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

dont know whether floats are available or not but ASC can arrange it....hey is your bike in warranty period? ask them for carb. replacement

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yeah...tyres can be upgraded to the mentioned specifications....But the Rear tyre will touch the chain guard..so you will have to sacrifice the chain guard (not recomended) or even you may need to change the swingarm with that of 180 or 220....fuel economy will decrease by 5-7 kmpl and slight drag in the engine...handling will be better....for handle bars you better ask the ASC

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

K thanks will ask for carb replacement

Pulsar 150 UG3 Overheating and feels harsh!

Hi. I own a P150 UG3 2008 Model which has run only 26k on the odo. I bought it few months back from a person my uncle knew as the bike was rarely used. It had ran only 23k on the odo then. First few days the bike seemed alright and it ran like butter when completely cool but once the engine starts heating up there's this harsh tic-tic sound and the bike starts to become very harsh with reduced throttle response and pulling power and it heats up real quick. Its difficult to touch the engine (not the head. the lower part having clutch n all) as little as after running 8-10km at normal RPMs like 3-4k on the average. The Engine oil levels are above minimum. I have tried Shell AX5 and AX7 SS engine oils and changed em 2-3 times already. So i found that the oil was not the problem. I checked the AFR and adjusted it many times in clockwise and anticlockwise from the position it was on. Still it overheated.

The longest distance i covered without break is 20km!!! And the engine was very harsh so i had to stop. I knew it was straining. The bike returns 47kmpl currently. The bike is rather smooth on rainy days. The gear becomes hard when it heats up and becomes harsh. (The sound of the engine and the feel is harsh).

Bike had no modifications. No engine guard is installed. Spark plugs are not faulty.

I don't know the service history of bike. I replaced the clutch plates as specified in the manual as it is 26k on odo. Still after a lil run of 3-4km the bike seemed to be heated. I don't know if they already took it for a test ride.

So, my question is.. Does the new clutch plates heats quickly till they set? Or is it something else thats wrong with the Engine that's causing overheating? The brakes and all are fine. I checked everything else.
Please help me..
Thank You