Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Hi Deep,

Which model bike is yours..??

As you said your bike is consuming oil i am assuming that your bike is emitting white smoke and oil is observed at the tip of silencer.

As per my view 57000kms is early but its not early and is dependent on style of riding and regular oil changes.

150ml for 750km.. for 2500kms(normal drain interval) it will be 500ml. If your bike is not emitting white smoke that much you can do some more thousands of KMS, provided you drive it slow and within your region with regular oil checking (Strictly).

My bikes engine seized in the same condition as that of your bike. Because i have taken it for long drive with 80-90kms speed.

After an engine overhaul(I am assuming that you are going to change borepiston, valves and clucth plates) the bikes engine will be as new as a New bike in showroom. (Smoothness and other things are different criteria) you can drive it more than 50-70K kms or even more without any glitch provided with proper maintenance(Engine oil change and others).

If you want details go to 152-155 Pages where i have stated all the details of my bikes engine work and also costs. Costs will be more are less the same for your model even if its latest 150.

Hope it helps.

Regards,
Srinivas

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Thanks

Sent from my GT-N7000 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

[QUOTE=Srinivas sr143sr;1135503]Bro.. As you said that you have gone for a second hand BCU and as the Bajaj ASS is asking to change all BCU, Switches and other stuff, i ahve given the advice to go for P135 switches. Let me explain this...BCU... around 1100RS+... will your problem go away...???? Ans: MaybeWill they be permanent without any problem in future..?? Ans: MaybeNon contact switches.. around 1000rs+ for both.. will your problem go away...???? Ans: MaybeWill they be permanent without any problem in future..?? Ans: MaybeThe cost here itself crosses 2500Rs+..I am asking you to go for P135 switches.. Cost 1000RS+.. will your problem go away...???? Ans: Definitely. the connections problems will go away.Will they be permanent without any problem in future..?? Ans: YES.. i am using them...!!!!I will explain you about the electricals of Pulsar UG3.BCU is a relay type thing that gathers the signals from non contact type switches and other sensors then processes them and delivers the output. Water and other harsh environment may spoil it..!!! Also troubleshooting is much difficult. this is the reason why Bajaj has removed BCU in 2014 UG5 models of Pulsar150 and 180 and also P135, P200NS have regular contact type ones...!!!In your headlight case may be RHS or BCU are culprits. One thing bro it is 2007 model bike and the parts are aged. why to take risk in replacing one or other of those parts..?? Just throw them off...!!!Please dont change the STATOR COIL first..!! It cost around 500RS+ Check condition of headlight bulb after rectifying above problem. Now check REGULATOR. (The below process is after changing switches/rectifying switches .The headlight is in off position normally but when it is on the glow is dim.)I will give you process for checking regulator (for lighting) if you have a good spare bulb with you. Take 2 wires a metre length each. Dont remove the regulator from its socket. Identify the YELLOW wire (not yellow red) of regulator, try to connect a wire(1st wire) to it or touch at that yellow wire connection and connect the end of wire to a pole of bulb. Connect another wire(2nd wire) to chasis or body of bike and connect the end of this wire to another pole of bulb.Start the bike and let it idle. dont switch on any switches. Now you see the bulb is glowing is it ok..?? Just twist the throttle... Getting good/Full intensity...??? then your Regulator is Good...!! If the intenstity is not good then REGULATOR is culprit. If it is problem. Please DONOT CHANGE regulator immediately. Reply me...!! I will tell what to do..!!! (AVY stator+AVY RR swap+ one special mod done by me. I will tell you)Now i will explain how the engine ignites upto UG3 model..You ahve kicked the kicker. Magent (you can see it in glass of stator cover) rotates on dedicated pole (yellow covered) of stator, then current generated comes to CDI and then from CDI the volatge is increased and CDI sends it to spark plug.In your case kick starts the bike.If at all stator is weak, whatever you do your bike will not start.In selfstart case.. it does the same thing the self starter motor rotates crank there by rotates magnet then above process... (Check how magnet is rotating through glass.. is it roatating very slowly..??) That why it takes long time for selfstart tan compared to UG4 models. (In UG4 etc models. Press selfswitch, current goes from battery to CDI,.. bang... immediate start in fraction of second.)Coming to CDI..Problems related to CDI. 1.Misfiring-- Giving jerks... Same problem can be related to Carburettor (Diaphragm problem/slide problem)2.Sudden Stop/Complete ceasing of bike. Whatever you do Bike will not start3.Bikes RPM slowly raises from a RPM and stucks at a RPM and may not come to idle (1*1000RPM) even if throttle is released. (In my case the rpm raised slowly from 1 to 2 and from 2 gave a sudden jerk and it remains there after riding for some distance.) Same problem can be related to Carburettor (Diaphragm problem/slide problem) and also ValvesAs you said that "idling rises at a point of time and comes down at regular intervals" i asked you to check CDI (But not to buy it)So after changing (if you wish) switches Go for checking CDI. Dont buy it. Ask them to check with a spare. Bro.. Please check whether the REED switch (Black switch) is present on carburettor. (You will see a small black magnet type thing which moves up and down on throtlling.) It controls the RPM by sending signals to CDI. I think its called Throttle positioning sensor. Google it you are unable to understand what iam saying. It costs very less, may be less than 10Rs i think.I am assuming that your spark plugs are new.2 and 3 Problems of CDI happened for me.IMPORTANT NOTE: if you are going for P135 switches, you stand while he is doing the work. Ask him to modify the connectors by removing them carefully but dont allow him to slice any wire. Ask him to use from his old wiring(gone) sockets if needed. Be strict to him. Tell him that i will pay you good if he does good work. Demand him to not to cut any wire.!!I am here to help you out max.. Reply me if any help needed.I feel very bad about UG3 to UG4.5. Suckers loot a lot from the sufferers beacuse of their lack of knowledge on these electricals. If there is a problem Just they will say to change BCU and switches. oohhhh Mannn... serious...???? Is it a Joke...?? 2500RS simply like that..??? Even the borepiston and clutch plates wont cost that much.... I am also a victim. So i want to help a lot. whenever possible.!! So bro already you have spent a lot. Even before buying any thing reply me. i will advice you the best.Regards,Srinivas [/Dear brother sreenivas first of all thanks a lot for spending time and effort for my post,i really appretiate your wast knowledge on motorcycles especially electricals,no one ever had given such a technical explanation in detail, brother it all happend when i brought this bike for 5k rupees,up on the confidence of totally resetting a yezdi roadking,shogun,max100, my confidence led me to buy a pulsar and restore it,not fed up with 2stroke but just for a craze of newgeneration bike i brought it,and as one of my uncle works in bajaj a s s i was able to source all body parts with some scrathes but all clamps intact,and a dented ug4.5 tank later took dent and painted by myself,my soul intention was that when me doing all the works could save labour charge painting charge,all mechanical parts are fine as i spend nearly 18k only for parts,full bearings from engine wheels,camshaft,bore,swing arm bushes,cone set,meter case,light switches,brake shoe front brake pad,but the only problem not problem headache is this electricals,brother im doing my final sem mech diploma in mysore,so i just get weekly one day to spent with bike,as u said first thing im going to change is switches from p135, brother i have some doubts1. p135 switches are contact type or non contact? does it interfere with bcu?or is it like yezdi or yamaha wiring2.i had checked the magnet rotation it is not slow its fairly rotating,and my battery is also brand new.3.as u said i had changed the throttle switch and magnet set both.4.brother i will clearly explain how the bike idles,if u have worked with hh glamour,unicorn,splendour there is a small pipe that goes from the carburettor inlet (iron pipe connecting carb and head in glamour that is bend) to a unit near airfilter that is mounted in #1 0 bolts,i guess its pollution unit,and if u remove that pipe and give throttle and cut the throttle engine comes to idle with some rise in rpm,jus like a wave form,its the same characteristics im able to find in my pulser now. hope u understand my language.

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Dear brother sreenivas first of all thanks a lot for spending time and effort for my post,i really appretiate your wast knowledge on motorcycles especially electricals,no one ever had given such a technical explanation in detail, brother it all happend when i brought this bike for 5k rupees,up on the confidence of totally resetting a yezdi roadking,shogun,max100, my confidence led me to buy a pulsar and restore it,not fed up with 2stroke but just for a craze of newgeneration bike i brought it,and as one of my uncle works in bajaj a s s i was able to source all body parts with some scrathes but all clamps intact,and a dented ug4.5 tank later took dent and painted by myself,my soul intention was that when me doing all the works could save labour charge painting charge,all mechanical parts are fine as i spend nearly 18k only for parts,full bearings from engine wheels,camshaft,bore,swing arm bushes,cone set,meter case,light switches,brake shoe front brake pad,but the only problem not problem headache is this electricals,brother im doing my final sem mech diploma in mysore,so i just get weekly one day to spent with bike,as u said first thing im going to change is switches from p135,
brother i have some doubts
1. p135 switches are contact type or non contact? does it interfere with bcu?or is it like yezdi or yamaha wiring
2.i had checked the magnet rotation it is not slow its fairly rotating,and my battery is also brand new.
3.as u said i had changed the throttle switch and magnet set both.
4.brother i will clearly explain how the bike idles,if u have worked with hh glamour,unicorn,splendour there is a small pipe that goes from the carburettor inlet (iron pipe connecting carb and head in glamour that is bend) to a unit near airfilter that is mounted in #1 0 bolts,i guess its pollution unit,and if u remove that pipe and give throttle and cut the throttle engine comes to idle with some rise in rpm,jus like a wave form,its the same characteristics im able to find in my pulser now. hope u understand my language :-)

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

[QUOTE=sayoojroadking;1135779]Restoring bikes is a good job and only those who have a lot of patience can achieve it successfuly..

Pulsar is also a bike worth restoring..

1. P135 are contact type switches almost same (Internally and sockets wise) as that of Pulsar UG2 Versions. Why i advised you them, is they are quite robust and better build than any switches. you name any bikes switches, nothing can beat these ones. Also the illuminating light will be cool

Do you ever thiought why they are not testing with Spare or Testing Switchsets/BCU..??? BCU and UG3 switch sets are electronic devices and may Fail with in seconds if used with a Faulty switch set or Faulty BCU...!! It is said by one of my known mechanics. He said that is why they dont test them. And you know the cost right...

P135 are Contact type and these work independently and there is no need for BCU.

No hi-tech processing stuff (BCU) is required for them.

On going for these P135 switches BCU will be removed. You will lose only auto cancel indicator function and 3-successive crank stop function. Thats it..!!! Who cares for these functions...??????????????

As an external relay may not be needed for a 35watts bulb (here i am saying that P135 switches can handle that current) use a RELAY for safety.

The life of these switches will be definitely long compared to UG3 switches. Rain, sun and any environment will not have much effect on these switches. I am not praising them, im only stating facts.

Here in Hyd, some electricians are changing UG3 bikes switches to UG2 models beacause of headaches of BCU and its switches.

I f you are going for P135 switches, follow this procedure. After installing P135 switches

Ask your electrician to do direct DC (Say him to make Direct) now you bikes Digital meter, Switches, LED tail lamp, Pilot lamps and also Headlight will work without starting bike. That is they are on DC..!! But if your headlight is on DC, you will battery will get drained as your model is not designed for DC headlight..!!!

So ask him to make the wires going to headlight(not pilot lamps) to work on AC through RELAY...!!! That is they will get the AC power from YELLOW wire of Regulator.

This is not a hard job and can be done using two relays and 2-3m wire at most...!!!

Why to make it all DC...??? LED lights and digital meter will work longer with DC as it constant without fluctuations..!!!! AC fluctuations are higher..!!!

Any battery issues after this job..??? Nothing mostly it may consume 6-10 watts due to Halogen pilot lamps and when your bike is running it will be negligible. If you change Them to LEDs then nothing will be drained.

Whats cool in this mod...??? Whenever you turn on the key all the lights will glow without any draining of battery. You can almost forget about battery..

But whenever you are running without battery you should remove the REGULATOR connection to protect electricals..!!!!

ONE MORE THING: P135 are designed for DC. so the engine kill switch will act reversely if you connect them to UG3 wiring. I will tell you how to make it normally. Tell me after you have bought them.

Anything more information is required, i can help you. Even if you are open to do it yourself. I will help you step by step..

2.Magnet Rotation is OK fine..!!!
Do you know how engines of Pulsars up to UG3 starts and stops ..?? Theres a small black coil (Pickup coil) attached to stator coil. It is essential both for starting and stopping of ignition. For starting the signal from it is taken. when you press engine kill switch or turn your key off, the signal coming from it will be shorted to chassis or body.
Maybe there is a case for your bike that when you are pressing self, the pickup coil signal is getting shorted.

This shorting will be done by wires in white socket. Identify the white socket of your RHS switch set, disconnect it and Press self button. Bike started..??? If yes.. Culprit is your RHS switch set.

Bike not started yet..??? (Check in between that bike is getting started with kick)

You can do one thing, Remove all the connections of RHS switch set , Turn off petrol cock, Turn key ON. (Check in between that bike is getting started with kick)

identify the starter relay, identify thick wires connecting to two poles of relay, one thick wire goes to positive pole of your battery, another thick wire goes to self starter.

Take a THICK wire, metre length. Try to connect/short those two poles (having thick wires) of relay. Move back to your bike and do it carefully, as sparks will produce.


If you are confused do this way... attach one end of the thick wire you have brought to One side of Relay (The pole that is going to self motor) and attach the other end of your wire a BIG, Well Insulated Screw driver and make that screw driver touch the +pole of battery.

PLEASE DO IT CAREFULLY AS THE SELF MOTOR TAKES HEAVY CURRENT AND IS VERY RISKY IF YOU DO IT WRONGLY...!!! IT MAY BE FATAL...!!

ALSO MOVE BACK TO YOUR BIKE AND DO IT..!! NEVER TOUCH YOUR BIKE WHILE DOING IT..!! (I THINK YOU KNOW ITS -VE POLE)

Remove the connection immediately after bike started, because self rotates as long as you hold that wire connection..... Bike started...??? If YES, there is problem in your RHS switch set

Bike didnt started..??

As you have removed RHS switch sets, along with it now remove BCU and all its connections. (Check in between that bike is getting started with kick without BCU)
Now do the same thing as above to self starter relay. Bike started...??? If YES, there may be problem in your BCU and maybe in RHS switch also.

Now you may think that Pickup coil signal may be getting shorted internally in wiring. If its shorted, BIKE WILL NOT START WHATEVER YOU DO...!!!!
Your bike is getting started with kicker right..?? then there is no problem in pickup coil and in wiring.

4. Bro, we can relate a lot to electricals and carburettor for this problem.

It may be also related to carburettor. HOW IS YOUR AIR FILTER..???

Finding faults in Carburettor is somewhat easy than electricals. Diaphragm, Airscrew and float needle can be replaced if they are faulty.

As you have fine tuned carburettor and there is no good outcome. try to replace Diaphragm, Airscrew and float needle. (These doesnt cost much). Apart from using petrol, there is some special solvent (dont know its name) to clean specially for carburettor. good servicing centres have them.
Never BUY NEW CARBURETTOR. Carburettor can be repaired and for cleaning and replacing all these come under 100 RS...!!!!!!!!

For electricals, may be a faulty BCU is playing with pickup signal or CDI is at fault. The only way is to go Bajaj ASS or Good/Big bike electrician and ask them to check with their testing CDI piece. (After rectifying BCU and switches)

Always wants to help others whenever possible As i have suffered, i want atleast others to be happy

Always welcome for any advice you need

By the way i am M.Pharmacy Post graduate. But i Love Bikes a lot...

Try above methods bro...

WARNING: PLEASE DO IT CAREFULLY AS THE SELF MOTOR TAKES HEAVY CURRENT AND IS VERY RISKY IF YOU DO IT WRONGLY...!!! IT MAY CAUSE SEVERE BURNS AND ALSO IT MAY BE FATAL...!! PLEASE TAKE NECESSARY PRECAUTION AND DO IT WITH UTMOST CARE....!!!!
12V WILL CAUSE BURNS..!! I HAVE SEEN IT..!!! PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS...!!!! IF YOU ARE NOT SURE.. PLEASE DONT TRY IT..!!

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

The following mods done this week on my 2013 UG 4.5 Pulsar. Changed the chain sprocket to that of the Pulsar 180. Bought a 120/80-17 Birla Firemaxx R50 TL tyre for the rear and the grip and shock absorbing has improved. The aspect ratio has given a true feeling of overgearing. The ride is very smooth. Now the next mod is to swap a 90/80-17 front tyre of the R15v2.

Pulsar chain loose

Hello friends. I'm a new member of xbhp and have been following it silently since a month ago when my bike started facing problems.

I have a pulsar 150 ug 4.5 which has done only 4000km till now. The bike used to ride smoothly but since a month or two ago it had become very rough to ride. If I increase or decrease the throttle a little I get a sudden jerk in any gear. After the recent 2nd free service it was smooth and powerful as before. But within a day or two it became jerky again and the acceleration dropped. I went to the same ASC and got my chain tightened which was loose. The mechanic loosened the rear axle nuts, turned the chain tightening screw and tightened the axle nuts again. However he didn't tighten the two chain nuts. They were so loose that I could turn them with my fingers easily.
Could this be a reason why my chain keeps running loose inspite of tightening constantly?

Please help me as it is very difficult to ride the bike like this. It no longer has its acceleration or smoothness.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

I found this on olx while looking for ktm

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Would you guys recommend putting in synthetic oil for a Pulsar 150, or am I better off just replacing the mineral oil frequently? On a daily basis (and some weekend highway runs) would I feel the difference in the engine smoothness with synthetic oil or is it an overkill?

If yes, which synthetic oil would you recommend?

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Guys as posted way earlier, I finally saved up enough to purchase a 2006 era pulsar 150 for 15000 including transfer and insurance, the bike is pretty beaten up and is running in an overbore engine. I would post pics soon on its conversion.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

If your running is low, use mineral or semi synthetic. Use fully synthetic only if you use the bike under harsh conditions frequently such as highway runs. Else it's just waste of money.

Sent from my C6903 using xBhp Connect mobile app

I want to mode my pulsar 150

i like to increase bikes(p150) engine performance and appearance ,
here is a long list of modifications i would like to install on my bike
Performance:
Air Filter(k&n)
diffucer
Carburetor tuning
spark plugs
Exhaust tuning
chain sprocket
Appearance :
fairing head P220 , angel lighttubeless tire(Front: 100/80 - 17 - Tubeless Rear: 130/70 - 17 - Tubeless)

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

Dear brother srinivas as per your kind advice i brought today both right and left side switches of pulser 135 for rs1175,all the electricians i approached are saying a labour of 500 to 800 for the mod to be done,i dont think that is reasonable,once more i may have to disturb you regarding the matter,please guide me to fix the switches brother,as you have already done the job and qith your knowledge i can save money and learn the procedure,brother please give me your mobile number or please give a call to +919739797178,one more doubt does the accelarator fit perfectly for the 135 switch of 150,waiting for your reply

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Dear brother srinivas as per your kind advice i brought today both right and left side switches of pulser 135 for rs1175,all the electricians i approached are saying a labour of 500 to 800 for the mod to be done,i dont think that is reasonable,once more i may have to disturb you regarding the matter,please guide me to fix the switches brother,as you have already done the job and qith your knowledge i can save money and learn the procedure,brother please give me your mobile number or please give a call to +919739797178,one more doubt does the accelarator fit perfectly for the 135 switch of 150,waiting for your reply

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

is 15w 50 grade oil okay for the pulsar?

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is 15w 50 grade oil okay for the pulsar?

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

It's ok for the Pulsar150. No problem..

Sent from my C6903 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues


Hi Sayooj,

As your bike UG3 it has ac lighting and all functions are handled by BCU..!! I advised you to go for electrician because there are some changes to be done and you have to be careful because of digital meter and led backlights..!! Be aware if you are ready to proceed for the mod as it involves in number of wires and their connections...!!!

To start, the connectors of LH and RH P135 are Female sockets and LH and RH of UG3 are male connectors.. (as far as i know)

You can use the connectors of BCU and UG3 switches for making modification to fit the P135 switches to your existing wiring. But these have thin wires for carrying current.

try to source a complete worn out original UG2 wiring (with engine kill switch variant) for your use. (The guage/thickness of the UG2 wiring is very thick. No bajaj vehicle is made with such high thickness as far as i know). You can get it for throw away price.


P135 switches cant handle the UG3 horns. You must and should purchase a Horn relay and 1 sq.mm wire (may be Finolex). I can tell you how to connect the relay.

The switches may handle the light current, but to be on safer side it is advisable to purchase two 4 pin good rating(may be 20A) automobile relay for low beam and high beam.

For the lighting and horn connections buy around 10metres wire (It will not be wasted, you can use it in your home)

For connecting them three fuses will be needed. If you donot use relay for horn it will not function normally.

Bro it needs lot of patience and there will be a damage risk for digital meter as well if not done properly.

but i can tell you all the essentials of what to do and what not to do.

things to be done......

--Converting the bike to DC (except headlight)
Identifying the yellow wire in the wire loom at the airfilter side down the tank near carburettor, cut it and connect the remaining yellow wire going to headlight with +ve white wire at the lock set . it makes full dc. Lights, switches. digi meter.
--making light to work on ac. identifying the two wires at the headlight bulb and cutting them to cut dc to headlight. now the wires going to headlight will be connected to two relays, which will be powered by AC (for one wire out).
If you connect the headlight to dc your battery drains with in a minute. So Ac for headlight.
Advantages:
No flicker for digital meter and other lights. All the AC produced will only be used by Headlight. so very low flicker.
--Using relay for Horn
--Kill switch wii work in reverse if existing wire used. so identifying the white-red wire at the stator connecting socket. Cutting that wire where it is connected (in wire loom and connecting wire to that joint and taking that wire to switchset.

These all SHOULD BE DONE (MUST and SHOULD) by you for hassle free and no problem ride. But you should take risk for connecting the digital meter and switch sets.
you should have a digital multimeter before doing all these things

I will explain you if you want further details.