Re: Bike engine is heating up..!!



Best guess they used Bajaj oil and for that I don't know the grades.

Re: Bike engine is heating up..!!

Carb must be tuned lean. Get the carb retuned.

Sent from my ST18i using xBhp Connect mobile app

Help needed in getting my Pulsar back to life

Hi Guys,

I own a Pulsar 150 Dts-i 2005 model (Alloy wheels with Analogue meter)
sample picture

Kms Clocked : 1,30,000 Kms

My way of driving is sane around 45-55-60kmph inside city and on highways of around 80-90kms non-stop. No modifications done to engine. I did many long trips on my bike (say 300kms, 450kms ), sometimes even 100kms non-stop. Never ever my bike showed any problem related to pickup, acceleration and topend. I regularly used to change oil at 2500-3000 kms intervals and regularly used to give for servicing. Never ever changed or opened any parts in engine till date. Mostly using xW50 oil (Mostly Valvoline 4t premium)

At around 85000 kms or so, my bike started to give very light white smoke on heavy throttling but no clear symptoms of heavy oil leakage in the tip of silencer. There is only very very slight wet of oil at tip. So my mechanic (Known) advised me that whenever there is excess oil at silencer tip, the engine has to be opened for boring or replacement process.

so i am using my bike normally. There is no problem and had a good topend too, 102kmph with pillion.

Me and my friend decided to attend marriage on saturday night(6th Dec), so decided to travel on my bike. Filled it with new engine oil. Air filter is clean, new plugs and carburettor was cleaned as well before. Chain set is new. The trip is around 300kms. We traveled at a speed of 80kmph as usual, halting once every 50-70kms. After the function, we started on Monday morning back, maintaining same speed around 80-90kms.

Now the problem:
After traveling some 190kms suddenly the engine sound changed suddenly and bike has stopped.

I tried to start after waiting for few minutes the kicker glided smoothly and bike is cranking by self start but engine is not starting. I highly suspected that the engine is gone.
I have opened the engine oil cap and the oil level has dropped down below the tip of the stick. I pushed the bike to a near petrol bunk and filled with oil (Servo 20W40 car engine oil), but the bike didnt started. so i rode the bike by holding the side holder rod of auto and reached to near by village which is 15kms away from the petrol bunk.
I showed the bike to a mechanic and he removed plug and put some oil and tried to push start the bike . The bike started, but immediately stopped and was unable to start again. He concluded that the bike engine lost its compression and the re-bore(or new bore) job has to be done.
We loaded the bike onto a small truck and returned to home. The truck driver charged RS 2000 for 100kms. Literally we had a lot of stress in pushing the bike and a lot of mental stress in the whole process.
I cant take my bike to my reliable mechanic since he is 30kms far away from my home. If i have to take it by a trolly, the charges may be more than Rs2000 inside city.

There are lot of similar queries in this forum, but Guys please consider this a personal request and advise me and help me if you have sometime.

My Query:
My bike is my home now. First of all, what should i do..?? (I know that the bike should be taken to mechanic. But what i am asking is what are the things/facts i should know before hand)
What would be the possible damage..??

1. If it requires Piston bore replacement, what are the charges for it..?? Request you guys to give(If you have) individual parts approx. cost
Like Piston, Bore, Valves, seals, gasket or packings, Clutch plates(or pressure plates)
I am asking this because, here in my place for bore job, simply they quote some 7-10K Rs.


what will be the least possible (low cost) solution for my problem. Is it simply reboring the block and a new piston..?? If it is how much it would cost..??


2. From Bajaj Pulsar 150 All versions http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...-versions.html thread, i came to know the Bore X stroke of Pulsar 150 UG II is 57 X 56.4
Newer Pulsar 150 Bore X Stroke 58 X 56.4

I dont know how much true above values are. Guys please confirm above values.

I have read many threads for going to bigger bores like 180, 200 by many enthusiasts, and i also wondered for their enthusiasm and lot of pain they have gone through. Sometimes i also thought in implementing that mods. But unfortunately many bhpians were suffered with many problems and the reliability is always a question.


My question is my bike produces around 13.5bhp. Now to gain a small amount of power can i go for newer pulsar 150 bore set for my 150 UG II..?? what are the changes has to be done ..?? Any extra parts to be replaced .?? Any one has done this mod..?? I read in a thread, one of our member undefineme3 has faced many difficulties in fitting the head to bore (150 head to 200 block), so i am asking this question.


or 180 mod..?? Any one had good stories..??



I may be missing a lot of questions, may be on your questions and answers, i may recollect if any. So guys try to reply, if you have sometime. Awaiting your helpful replies.

Re: Help needed in getting my Pulsar back to life

Hello... Any body help please... princesirohi sir..

Re: Help needed in getting my Pulsar back to life


Your bikes bore piston are most definitely gone (I mean seriously 130000 kms is way too many kms on stock bore) but I think that bike not starting at all might have happened due to piston seizure which can happen if the bike is stressed also I think your tappets are stuck open and that is why the kick is free. The oil loss alone is a good indicator that the piston rings are completely shot.
In any case though I don't know the exact cost. The cylinder piston kit (bore, piston, rings and oil seals/gaskets) should cost you about 6000/- odd. Other things you'll need include valves tappets, cam chain, cam sprocket, cam chain guides, cam chain tensioner, crank connecting rod, roller bearing, engine bearings, oil seal kit and rocker arms. The above items should come to about 3-4k INR. You'll need to get the valves grinded and faced to match the new tappets and the new connecting rod will need to be installed into the crank. The labour cost will run to about 2-2.5k INR.
Modifying the engine with new model bore is not recommended but if the stroke value is the same for both new and old model then it is doable with minimal effort. The head will need to be changed if this is done. In my opinion its not worth it as the gain in power is very marginal so its not worth the effort.
The prices I mentioned are not exact prices so I suggest you visit the nearest Bajaj parts shop and find out exact prices.
Hope this helps.

Cheers
Balgi

Re: Help needed in getting my Pulsar back to life

Thank you for replying Balgi..
My bike is at my home... I went to my trusted mechanic yesterday and enquired about new 150 model bore for my P150 UG II. He showed me the bores and pistons of both the models and concluded that my model piston is better than current models pistons.



My model piston is somewhat strong and thick than current models... The current models piston is weak (Maybe) on my observation...
and small cylinder rod inside the piston is way stronger than current models. I dont why it is like that..??

Mechanic is saying that the connecting rod hole diameter, for holding the piston will be different for the two models..??

I dont say that my model is better in any way.. Just telling what i have seen..


LH model piston is old model piston and RH side is newer model piston.. Placed on a newer model Block. The small cylinder rod inside the piston im talking about is inside the LH piston.



There is a piston lying down in upperpart right side, it has small cylinder coming out in piston, it has very less thickness than that of old model.



Old model block (May be my model)



New model block with piston, i dont know what are those extra two holes in newer piston apart from center hole..???



The mechanic said that it is better to go for my own model bore kit for my bike, as it is good and dont invite trouble.


I had an observation.. The block/ bore at the right side bottom has a hole.. It is bigger for newer models.. My model has small hole..
For newer model there is an extra small hole,. The mechanic said that it is for oil circulation,..
Is it true..?? From where to where, the oil will be circulated..??? Any idea..??


Newer model block with big hole diameter (on RH side) and an extra hole (for oil circulation..??)



Old model block with one hole (smaller than newer model hole) and no extra hole



By watching it, my thoughts are, it will be better to have oil circulation.. But on watching, my model piston is better than newer models (Just my thought)..... Hmm... But my model bore has no oil circulation.. What to do.. Any suggestions..??

My UG2 block has embossed marking as DS and newer models, i think DH... (I saw a UG3 bike and it has DHS ..DH3 ...).. Haa.. so many UG's.......

Block at the shop



My bikes engine block pic, DS embossed


In my bike oil is leaking (i think so ) in LH side plug.. What may be reason..?? Does it need any lathe work..??



Please give me suggestions dude.. Most probably i wish to get repaired my bike this week...

Thanks in advance..

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

[MENTION=41173]Srinivas sr143sr[/MENTION].
The new model's cylinder and piston are not weak, they have just been designed to be lighter and more efficient. As for the connecting rod between piston and crank that can easily be swapped for the new model con-rod.
In essence the crank, bore, piston, piston pin, crank connecting and cage bearings can all be safely swapped with the parts of the new model and it will pose no risk. In fact with the new model's parts your bike will run smoother and pick up speed quicker (marginally).
But since your mechanic is giving you that cock and bull story about the new parts being weak I guess he doesn't feel confident about the modification. I say go with his advice and get the original spec parts from an authorised dealer and just fix up the bike to original spec.
Bajaj experimented extensively with the pulsar engine and one of their goals was to improve oil circulation. But that doesn't mean your bike not having a bigger oil circulation hole is a problem. It ran fine upto now right?
As for the oil leak, its because your piston rings are shot. Once the cylinder kit is changed that'll stop. And you only need to get valve grinding and facing done. No lathe work needed unless your going for oversize bore which I would not recommend as the mileage would reduce.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

What you have said is really true bro... Thats also what i am thinking.. Bajaj has come a long way producing better engines...

The lighter piston definitely/surely promises for better power output or movement but should be hard enough to withstand high pressures... It is bugging me also...

In my opinion the early busting of pistons is only due to not maintaining oil levels, stressing engine without proper oil, wrong oil grades (I am strict in maintaining xW50) and abusing the engine too much..
After all our engine is only air cooled and have small CC. Abusing too much and regularly using it for drags for longer times may also lead to early busting of piston (My thoughts)..May be i have seen that pistons in my mech's shop...

Also the normal People neglects oil change and use for longer runs, more than 5000kms. This is bad. And i have watched some bikers coming with bikes for oil change with no oil at all when drained...

I will talk to him and i will think again about this.... Thanks for your inputs....

I have a doubt bro.. Some of our members said that the P220 camshaft can be used for better output.. but in simple it doesnt have valve decompressor so kicker wiil give back kicks..
I have also asked about this to my mechanic and asked him is it possible to fit that decompressor on P220 camshaft..
he said my model cam has a hole in between so that it will hold the decompressor, but in P220 camshaft it is plain and doesnt have a hole/provision. Can we drill a hole on to that P220 cam and use it..??

pulsar 150 cam


Pulsar 220 camshaft on a Pulsar 150... Below pointer is where the place Valve decompressor is present in P150. The mechanic is saying that in P150 cam, there will be a hole/provision one the rod for fitting the Valve decompressor. Any idea on that bro...



(Pictures are taken from http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...pgrade-12.html page)

Please clarify. Excuse me for so many questions....

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

The p220 has an eelectric start only and therefore does not require a decompressor. It has a separate mechanism to deal with the kick back.
If you wwish to modify the camshaft by drilling a hole in it, be warned that the p220 also has a light camshaft which means its structural integrity will be lost if it is modified. Best option for you for higher power output would be to rebore the cylinder to 2nd oversize, get the p220 valves and port out the intake and exhaust ports, buy high lift camshaft for your bike model (I'm sure you'll find it if you look online), and run a different sprocketing setup than stock.
However if you're looking for a marginal increase in power then just get the cylinder bored out to 1st oversize (0.25mm), get the new model piston and rings, get new modell crank connecting rod fixed to your existing crank (not recommended) or get a new model crank itself (recommended). With this you should see an increase in power you could get more out of the motor by using p180 tappets (valves).
All this info is based on experiments conducted on my friend ug2 p150. My friend was into racing and stunting so he kept experimenting with his bike.
I rrecommend non of these things however and I would advice you to go with absolute stock setup for long life and optimal performance of your engine.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Finally adjusted the tappets today..

Had to hold the piston at TDC by this method..


T mark Aligned on the window





Some points that will be handy.
*Do it on a cold engine after idling for 30 seconds
*Spray water mist by a squirt gun near the tappet cover before opening(This will prevent loose dust near that area entering the engine).
*Tappet cover is Size-24 preferably use ring spanner.
*Tappet adjuster nut is Size-9
*Intake valve clearance is 0.05mm
*Exhaust Valve clearance-0.1mm
*Always use a proper feeler gauge
*During tightening hold the top of the tappet by a plier or tappet holder tool(This will ensure the clearance does not change during tightening)
*Adjust intake valve clearance first(This is easier due to it's position)

After properly setting the tappet clearance-
*If the tappets were loose initially the tick tick sound will disappear.
*If the tappets were tight initially the kick will be harder to press.

Bajaj P 150 Half Engine Work

Im here to know if my bike bike mechanic did well or he lies. I own P 150, 3 years old . Last week I noticed some weird sound from engine and went to Bajaj service center where they told me it's because of Timing chain+ Clutch plate , after their analysis. They said it will cost you Rs 7000+ and it will required half engine work. I left

Then went to the mechanic suggested by one of my friend. I hand over the bike and he charged me Rs 2700/-.

Here are the things he done

- Service
- Clutch plated (Changed)
- Timing chain (Changed)
- piston (Changed)

Dont know more...

I just want to know whether he used genuine parts or not and the most important thing is, He suggested me to drive slow less than 35 KMPH for the next 15 days, should ride single for 2 days and should off the bike after 10 KM. For adjustment of the Piston.

Is everything is fine or He lies here? Im following his instruction

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

10 golden years and 100000 plus kms completed and i have never ever been let down by my Pulsar.
Have a lot of wonderful memories with bike.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Good going, pal! Have more wonderful and safe miles.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Thank you for your suggestions bro.. Helped me a lot

My bike is back to life..

I have purchased the original spares OEM. I have asked repeatedly for my model bore only. To my surprise the Bore for my model was changed from DS to DH3, which means it is changed/modified by Bajaj to latest model.. I am happy as its latest model since i thought to go for the latest black ones

Piston looked almost as the old one, Hope it is also modified to latest structurally/internally

The total cost after discount came around 3724 Rs approx for Spares and only 500 Rs for servicing charge

P150 2005 model Bore kit - 1798
Clucth assembly - 916
Cam chain - 178
Cam guide - 73
Valve set (Varroc) - 225
Valve oil seal - 53
Head packings - 85
glue/paste - 20
Misc - 166
Castrol GTX oil - 210

For the time being i have sticked to original cam shaft only as it is new engine. The head was cleaned and valve lapping done. The P150 original Cam has a provision/hole for holding the valve decompressor. At the lathe shop, i asked the guy can they make that one on a P200 cam. He said the Cam is a very hard part and it cannot done precisely on the P220 cam.

Picture of that hole/provision in P150 Cam. May be my picture is the first one on Xbhp or on whole web showing that hole.. (May be it will be useful for someone who thinks like me )




For the time being i purchased Castrol GTX 20w50 car engine oil for first 500kms Run-in. Is it ok..??? Which oil is best for run in..?? Should i change to crappy Bajaj oil next time..?? Any suggestions guys for mineral oil..?? Also suggest the best interval for oil change please...
I mean to ask
1st change-- at 500kms
2nd change-- at maybe 1000kms..?? (After 500 kms i.e; 500+500 (or) 500+1000..??)
3rd change-- ???

Regularly i use w50 Valvoline Premium4T for my bike with interval of 2500Kms. Its best for my bike..!!

The piston rings were worn, so the bike was seized previously..!!! But nothing chipped off / cracked from piston.. Thank God...
Pictures










Some of the pictures of my bike with new engine..

Previous Bore has part number DH 10 1016 for my bike. The new purchased part number on box was given as DH 10 1527 and the inside part shows it as DH 10 1691. The new versions black bore has also the same part number DH 10 1691.

The new purchased piston was embossed with DHU like the newer model piston. So i came to a conclusion that Bajaj has modified it to newer model (Atleast i am hoping)








Cleaned and polished head with new valves



Finally the new parts assembled bike



I am now on Run-in maintaining 40 kmph speed with varying rpm not crossing 3-4K.

Please suggest me the oil draining period accurately/approx and also the mineral oil.

I have the small issues like, when i am enganging the 1st gear from neutral its not getting engaged as it is used to in the past. Its getting stuck in middle and whenever i am trying to pull its getting neutral sometimes. (My bike has all down pattern. The best pattern)

When i engage 1st gear and trying to relaese clucth slowly, the bike is shaking like stop-go stop-go motion. My mechanic said its due to new clutch and its get right after some kms. What say guys..???

I would like to thank specially Balgi for his good advice and time. Thank you friend

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

[MENTION=41173]Srinivas sr143sr[/MENTION].
Oil change should be done at 500kms (or a little bit earlier if possible but not before 400kms mark) for post run in.
After this you can safely change oil at every 2000kms (do it at 1700kms after the first oil change for best results). Only change oil after 2000kms as that is the usual life of available 4t oils.
Also, don't use Bajaj oil man, you might as well be using coconut oil that is to say its crap after 700kms of running (provides no lubrication). The oil you bought is good for run in but after that change to motul 3100 or shell ax5.
Also, you're welcome man, glad to help.