Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Hello guys,

I am a recent Honda CB Trigger owner, still posting in this thread because CB Trigger thread has almost no active members.
Thus wanted to have your views on one query regarding 'Run in' period, which is common for all bikes.

I have done around 330 km as off now and I have read somewhere that the engine oil should be changed at around this time and postponing the first servicing to 600-650km.
Do you recommend this ?? Will this at all help in better run in??
I found this quite logical as this will remove any metal parts scrapped off during first few kilometers.

Please advice

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions


Hi friend, first of all congras for your new ride, I recommend you to go by your bikes manuel it will guide you better, it is important that you do all services on time to clam your warranty if something goes wrong/ faulty.

1. No harm in changing oil at 330 if you can shell out some money on it, but get it done in SVCs only (warranty may void if done else where (ref Manuel)).
2. Ride your bike for long in each gear, do not rip it.
3. Always maintain speed below 40-45 till you read 1500 in speedo.

All the best..!

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Dear Akash,

I have checked everywhere... there is no sign of oil leakage.....

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Get your clutch inspected and the cable adjusted
Your clutch is burning up i guess
That may be the smell
Do you notice any white smoke from the exhaust or any black smoke?
Change engine oil too
Use a thicker oil during summers like 20w40 or 20w50

divyansh....

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

it's good to change the engine oil during initial period of pre first service. It helps in flushing out little pieces of metal or so which appears to come out during running in period.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Is it a new bike?

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

In addition to my mate I would like to add something for engine break . The main area of controversy among engine break-in instructions is whether to run the engine slowly or quickly to initiate the process. Those who promote raising the power settings steadily will recommend changing the engine setting from low to high powers as to not work the engine too hard and create excessive wear on the cylinder wall (which would require the pistons to be removed and wall fixed). Other experts disagree and believe that to start the engine at a high power is the best way to effectively set in the pistons. The following are examples of how the two processes can be carried out:
Start high power
Start with RPM between 2500 and 4000, and run the engine for about 20 minutes while watching so that the oil pressure does not get too high, which is dangerous. After changing oil and checking that the engine functions, drive using lower power settings. A high power setting is relative to the vehicle type, so half as many rpm may be necessary if a car has a smaller cylinder wall.
Start low power
Setting will be around 1500 rpm, run for about half an hour while like the other method checking oil pressure and begin again should there be any over-boiling of the engine coolant. Once this initial step is completed, drive in varying speeds on the road (or stand) by accelerating between speeds of 30 and 50 kmph.
break in:

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Being drum break it won't make much of difference.

My First Post

Hello fellow xBhpians ,

I have been following this thread for very long time & its really very helpful, with all bike guru's at rescue !
I own a Pulsar UG3 2007 model, clocked 57000 KM so far, still totally in love with the bike !! I daily ride 65 KMs & she is still reliable just like the day i bought her

Re: My First Post

Guys is there any one who has up-shifted the front tire to 100 from 90! If so is there any ride difference?

Re: My First Post

Uggghhh dont remond me of that,
I did it once, had to change the tyre pretty soon and I hated it,
Front became heavy to turn like it had no air.
The tyre used to scrape the mudguards when it had less air,
And the ball racer joint wore out 2 times in 1 year 3 mnth

divyansh....

Re: My First Post

thanks for the info bro. Actually I have up sized my tyre to 100/90-17 from 90. It isn't giving any problem except that I feel some play in the handle though there's isn't any issue with he ball racer and is actually quite free. Also I have tried taking my hands off, the bike moves in a straight line. But at some times what I feel is the handle is loose and is moving to and fro in itself , I took my hands off immediately to check if any play is there but the bike moves in a straight line. So I thought this may be the result of up sizing or may be not.

I am using tubeless at front from Michelin.

Re: My First Post

I have a pulsar classic 150 so it can be different.
Play in handlebars can be due to numerous issues.
A worn ball racer joints and cones can be loose check them all and tighten all the parts of the handlebar joints, you must be feeling forward handlebar play during heavy use of the front brake right?

divyansh....

Re: My First Post

I will check. Cone set is relatively new and got it fixed again few days back, it seems may be something is loose but I am unable to find out what the reason is even the mech couldn't find any reason. However I will check once more... thanks for your input.... Btw in kolkata what do you prefer to ride with a pillion a Duke 200 or CBR 250R , just a query as I will be moving to kolkata soon. (just a OT)

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

No during braking I am not facing any such play but during normal riding sometimes the handle feels like as if it is pretty loose and is moving to and fro. Its just like if we keep a pen in pen stand and if we move it it will move to and fro. I have same kind of feelings at times under normal riding circumstances but then when I take my hands off the bike moves in a straight line without any fuss. This nature has confused me a lot, since I was expecting some play in handle bar once I take my hands off but no such things are there. Mine is clip on handle bar.

Re: My First Post

Dear Akash,

Yesterday i was washing my bike, while washing. i saw little drops of oil leaking from the cylinder head which you have mentioned earlier.. Yes it was.... The bike's stand was covered with oil and dust which was thick and black in colour. I wonder whether the oil leak will cause damage to the engine???????????? Pl give me some idea how to stop the oil from leaking.

Dear Maddy,

Yes it is a new bike about 7 months old... 2 free services done...!!!!


Rahul

Re: My First Post


The gasket leak(Cylinder head leak) will not cause a large quantity of oil to leak, instead just a few drops here and there. Just get the gaskets replaced from the svc, not a time consuming job, should be done with quickly.

As for the sprocket and stand area, most likely it is just lube getting thrown off and forming a thick black goo on the stand and occasionally on the ground when you park it overnight, clean the chain and sprocket thoroughly and that problem will be solved, the problem is mostly while cleaning , most svc will skip cleaning the front sprocket. Causing the sludge in that area to accumulate.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Re: My First Post

Replace head cover rubber gasket for inr 110 rs I think. Use Anabond gasket sealent.
That leak will go away.
Pour out the complete oil and refill with fresh engine oil since the oil quantity in the engine is surely messed up. But before that remove the front sproket cover and clean it. Leve the bike on main stand and observe ehere the oil is coming from.
Sometimes a sproket axel oil seal can be an issue or even the crank case gasket

divyansh....

Re: My First Post

Guys, just to confirm the pulsar does not have oil filter? but relies on a centrifugal pump and a mesh like thing for filtration, located on the right side of the crankcase?