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Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
Originally posted by krishnashk View PostKudos to all you folks helping out people in need.
Guys just wanted to know if changing mineral and full synthetic oil in alternative oil changes will have any impact on the engine?
Ps: 16k on odo and going very good. Pulsar ug 4 .
Motul 3100 gold ss oil 20w50
Motul 3000 mineral 15w50
Motul 5100 ss oil 15w50
Motul 7100 fs oil w50
And motul 300v w50
Stick to motul 5100 all year round in my opinion, best oil you can get for a pulsar.
Yep your right, ss oil to fs and back will not do any harm, even ss oil to mineral is ok, thing is fs oils and ss oils have a lot of additives that minerals dont, these additives also have an effect on your engine oil seals etc, too many changes sometimes makes them brittle, maybe you can pop a leak here and there, personally i have never had any issues from going to fs oil and back to mineral but others have had this!Originally posted by kusmaker View PostJust stick to a single viscosity of engine oil , don't shuffle engine oil alternatively, could have bad affect in the longer run, plus you will negate the benefit of fs by changing it to mineral oil straight, but why do you want to do this type of juggling.
Also ss oils cleans your engine from the inside, minerals slowly accumulate sludge and carbon deposits, on really old engines (read above 50 to 70k kms) if you suddenly run a synthetic oil it can result is cleaning up of this gunk and can cause leaks and even compression loss, sort of like the aftermath of an engine flush on a really old stock engine.
To counteract this problem, buy motul 5100 its an ss oil, it gives ypu the opportunity of downgrading to a mineral oil in an emergency (read unavailability of oil), dosent fall in level and vaporise like fs oils in summer heat, and its lighter on the pocket compared to fs oils,Originally posted by krishnashk View PostYeah I do use the recommended grade every time. The problem is I don't get (no stock)fs all the time
Its smoother than minerals and yeah it lasts loner than minerals too,
Use motul 5100 with a drain interval of 3500kms or so,
Shifting grades is also bad as ksumaker said. But, shifting grades from 15w50 to 20w50 is fine
its when you mess with the w50 that will get you into trouble.
If its possible for you calculate your yearly aproxx, running, and divide it by 3500 to 3800 (per oil change kms on motul 5100) you will get the no, of cans of oil you need, tell the dealer you will buy at once and ask for a bigger discount. :P
No problem of stock, cheaper too
Hope it helps.
divyansh....
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
Nice explanation by [MENTION=39856]divyansh[/MENTION]p, i think these suggestions should solve your problem, yeah it's the downgrading of outer no which causes problem, it the oil recommended is say xw40, you must not drop to xw30 as the oil will reaches it max temp quickly and will start overheating from thereonwards which will effect in thining of oil and hence gives water like lubrication,mostly which brand of ss and fs oil is always available in your state.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
How are thr front brakes guys? Mine are the old classic ones, they just dnot bite, I replaced the entire master cylinder along with the lever and internals, the travel is too much more than half depression on the front lever to get any bite on the discs, my pads are new, disc has not thinned out too much either, using dot 3 brake fluid system is bled well. I just dont see where the problem lies.
Any heads up?
divyansh....
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
Front brake is good and has a good bite. Good enough to bring down from 90 to 30 kmph in mere some secs. But it needs to be bleeded properly while changing fluid. Grease monkeys in the SS tends to ruin it by not bleeding it well. My brake is like four fingers gap from handle and has good enough bite. Check for any air inside. Mine is DOT3 as well..........Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostHow are thr front brakes guys? Mine are the old classic ones, they just dnot bite, I replaced the entire master cylinder along with the lever and internals, the travel is too much more than half depression on the front lever to get any bite on the discs, my pads are new, disc has not thinned out too much either, using dot 3 brake fluid system is bled well. I just dont see where the problem lies.
Any heads up?
divyansh....b SANE to b insane!
skype: maadyy06
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
Mine are good too but not upto the level that I would have wanted. A couple of braking moves and the brakes do not want to be effective unless they have cooled down. There is a slight contact between the disc and pads but that's common. I pressure washed the contact area to remove dirt and mud(if any) and that helped for some time but it again has this tendency to go lazy again.Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostHow are thr front brakes guys? Mine are the old classic ones, they just dnot bite, I replaced the entire master cylinder along with the lever and internals, the travel is too much more than half depression on the front lever to get any bite on the discs, my pads are new, disc has not thinned out too much either, using dot 3 brake fluid system is bled well. I just dont see where the problem lies.
Any heads up?
divyansh....
I would have preferred better brakes, something like that of Apache. There is only two things that can be done:
1. Upgrade to DOT 4 oil
2. Upgrade to steel braided brake lines from P220.
Our rubber ones can be very softy softy. I wish we had better discs and pads on offer, something of a reliable aftermarket or easily swapped ones from Hero or Honda or Yamaha or TVS.Regards,
Akash Yadav
The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It is a very mean and nasty place. It will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it.
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
Hey Guys,
I got my Pulsar 150 serviced on Saturday, but i am facing problem og jerking (the feel which we get when the bike comes to reserve) while riding a bike
So is it might be due to the water in the Petrol tank or else can be any other reason ?
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions
Excellent video on how a general service should be performed:
varun bajaj Bhimavaram pulsar150cc varun bajaj servicing - YouTube
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Is my bike running lean?
I recently tuned my pulsar150 2011 model which has this ucal carb. From full tightened position, i turned the volume screw 4.5 turn and ran the bike for 100km with new plugs. Now i can see the bike runs good when cold but gets hot at higher rpm and loss of torque and acceleration Also engine sound changes as if the timer chain feels loosen up
. I have enclosed the right side spark plug and requires some noble guys expertise to tell of the mixture is too lean.
Bike has ran 21500km. I appreciate your help
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Re: Is my bike running lean?
Approved and merged!Originally posted by Sakibchy View PostI recently tuned my pulsar150 2011 model which has this ucal carb. From full tightened position, i turned the volume screw 4.5 turn and ran the bike for 100km with new plugs. Now i can see the bike runs good when cold but gets hot at higher rpm and loss of torque and acceleration Also engine sound changes as if the timer chain feels loosen up . I have enclosed the right side spark plug and requires some noble guys expertise to tell of the mixture is too lean.
Bike has ran 21500km. I appreciate your help
Sorry for the delay in approval, but boss please hold your horses!
Last edited by Divya Sharan; 07-03-2014, 09:39 PM.Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Re: Is my bike running lean?
Plug seems good to me. I usually set a little richer than a little leaner. Now pulsar engines have this inherent engine noise that usually most engines dont... I have owned one for 80k + kms and 11 years plus and still do. you can reduce the noise on a hot engine with diffrent oils etc... but you will never get rid of it. I never could. Engine feels under powered and noisy and rough when hot(hasnt lost its horses but it sounds so harsh you feel it has no life and you are screwing it). Change the oil maybe what are you using? Never could find a solution. Its lretty reliable but damm it sounds bad.Originally posted by Sakibchy View PostI recently tuned my pulsar150 2011 model which has this ucal carb. From full tightened position, i turned the volume screw 4.5 turn and ran the bike for 100km with new plugs. Now i can see the bike runs good when cold but gets hot at higher rpm and loss of torque and acceleration Also engine sound changes as if the timer chain feels loosen up
. I have enclosed the right side spark plug and requires some noble guys expertise to tell of the mixture is too lean.
Bike has ran 21500km. I appreciate your help
have noticed it with all pulsars
Divyansh....
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Re: Is my bike running lean?
If my eyes aren't playing tricks on meOriginally posted by Sakibchy View PostI recently tuned my pulsar150 2011 model which has this ucal carb. From full tightened position, i turned the volume screw 4.5 turn and ran the bike for 100km with new plugs. Now i can see the bike runs good when cold but gets hot at higher rpm and loss of torque and acceleration Also engine sound changes as if the timer chain feels loosen up
. I have enclosed the right side spark plug and requires some noble guys expertise to tell of the mixture is too lean.
Bike has ran 21500km. I appreciate your help
(got an appointment with the eye doc for Saturday anyway) , the plug looks as WHITE as a ghost !!
When you say 4.5 turns, was it 360 degree turn or 180 ?
And remember the spark plugs fire and go off at particular rpms (below extract taken from one of the older pulsar workshop manuals):
There are 2 spark plugs. LH spark plug fires at 350 rpm and then continues to
give spark till at 9000 rpm of engine. The spark is cut off from
LH plug 9000 rpm to protect engine from excessively high
speed.
RH spark plug gives spark at 750 rpm and then continues to
give till 6000 rpm of engine. If engine rpm exceeds 6000 rpm
then RH plug is cut off. This is done to reduce combustion
noise created in engine
Do post a pic of the left side plug as well.
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Re: Is my bike running lean?
Divyanshp,Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostPlug seems good to me. I usually set a little richer than a little leaner. Now pulsar engines have this inherent engine noise that usually most engines dont... I have owned one for 80k + kms and 11 years plus and still do. you can reduce the noise on a hot engine with diffrent oils etc... but you will never get rid of it. I never could. Engine feels under powered and noisy and rough when hot(hasnt lost its horses but it sounds so harsh you feel it has no life and you are screwing it). Change the oil maybe what are you using? Never could find a solution. Its lretty reliable but damm it sounds bad.
have noticed it with all pulsars
Divyansh....
Thankz that reduce the fear from my bikers mind
Previously it was ok and i wouldn't worry about touching the volume screw, but some mech out of the blue messed it up while i went for a oil change. He thought he was doing me a favor, yes he did, he kept me worry since then! Now i cant figure out if i carb throwing more oil or less. I made full four 360 ' turn and another 180, hence 4.5 full anticlockwise turn from full tighten position and posted the result.
I could see my bikes burn more fuel, not sure but i dont mind to get on richer side than lean. If you guys think the plug looks good than thats a relief and i prefer to leave the carb as it is.
Ps : i thought the if porcelain looks too white, it means the mixture is lean!
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