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The Ultimate Ladakh Guide
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The Ultimate Ladakh Guide

June 13th, 2016 Sunil Gupta advertorial comments

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GETTING THERE

For a motorcyclist (or a motorist) there are two road routes for reaching Leh. For the sake of convenience and detail, we shall describe the route with Delhi as the starting point even though both the routes run common till Ambala which is about 200 kms north of Delhi. The route description here is strongly biased towards those traveling by two-wheels. For reference to distances between different way-points, please refer to the accompanying detailed route map in the following pages.

Pros and cons of riding Manali – Leh route compared to Srinagar – Leh:

PROS

  • Astonishingly beautiful landscape
  • Less traffic as compared to Srinagar – Leh
  • If you like off-roading, this is the route to take
  • Many more options for stopovers available
  • Overall much more scenic
  • Is shorter
  • This route can actually become the highlight of the trip, as almost 50% of the natural beauty is experienced along this route.

CONS

  • Not for the uninitiated. You go unprepared, well, you can get yourself killed!
  • High chances of AMS as you will halt for the first day at 4200m. That’s a rise of 2200m from Manali which is at 2000m, in one day!
  • Dangerous, narrow sections of the road are quite common throughout the route.
  • Mud, lots of mud. Especially at places near Pang and Tanglang la. Couple that with narrow passage, and you have to be really careful.
  • At some stretches, you won’t find anyone. Hence if something goes wrong with you or your bike, you should know how to fix it, as you will have to find a way out yourself. And if you are alone, then God help you!
  • Breathlessness while crossing high passes is a common problem.
  • Snowbound for most of the year. In comparison, Srinagar – Leh opens earlier and closes later.
  • Probability of high passes being snow-bound and closed is greater.
  • After Tandi, no petrol pump for the next 300 kms!

Pros and cons of riding Srinagar – Leh route compared to Manali – Leh:

PROS

  • This route is flatter and more linear as the highest pass you come across in this route is the Fotu-la which is at a meager 13,500 feet.
  • More places to stay and eat.
  • This route is normally busy, so you if you mess-up at someplace, chances are you’ll find someone to help you out.
  • Much better roads. If you leave aside Zoji la and some stretches near Fotu la, there is proper tarmac all the way through to Leh. In fact the final30 kms to Leh are double lane and marked!
  • You cannot miss passing through ‘Heaven on Earth’ – Kashmir.
  • Climb is easier and less amount of skill level is needed on this route.
  • The gradual increase in altitude helps in acclimatizing better and so there are fewer chances of AMS.

CONS

  • Outrageous amount of traffic till Srinagar which is a big turn-off, if you are coming from the plains.
  • The Jammu – Srinagar road is notorious for ill mannered truckies and tempo-travelers. People do not want to stick to their own lanes! Abrupt overtaking at blind corners, useless honking, traffic jams yadda yadda yadda.
  • Quite boring. Not as exciting and as beautiful as the Manali – Leh road
  • Takes an extra day ex-Delhi
  • Given the volatile nature of Kashmir politics, it’s always a risk passing through this route.
  • Only one gateway pass-Zojila which can be a deterrent in terms of too much traffic and uncertainty due to weather.

MAP_____________

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Sunil Gupta

The ‘veteran’ of many pan-India rides, Sunil G has enough miles (>200,000 kms) on the road to give a long term trucker a good run for his money. He is the quintessential traveler, frugal in needs, calm of demeanor and tough as nails. And his skills with the camera are only rivaled by those on two-wheels. The quintessential multi-tasker too, Sunil is the man to have around when huge miles on the high road are the order of the day.

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