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**s1d** · 07-01-2018, 01:45 PM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by Nathaniel Peter View Post

I have 2009 year old price list of spare parts of Pulsar 180 UG 4 here Pulsar 180 UG4 Spares List where it shows valve kit on page 3 which was broken as shown below in my hand.

The cylindrical surface inside my Pulsar 180's piston has got some scratches like triangle designs as shown in the screen shot as those scratches are invisible in my camera quality pictures. My local mechanic BUMI also said that the piston should slide smoothly inside the block but my piston was stuck and requires pressure to slide inside. So he said it can be repaired using tunning machine to make smooth surface around the piston which takes around Rs. 7000 or I else I have to purchase the whole block and piston. The BAJAJ service person said that they will only replace with new parts and he told the estimated price may reach Rs.15000.

When I said the piston cap I mean the top rusted surface area of the piston as shown in the below figure. I am sure that it can be cleaned with WD 40 spray after using sand paper on it but my local mechanic said that not to use sand paper at the lateral sides of the piston as it would leave tiny scratches but I can use it on the top surface area of the piston. He said that in order to make the piston's lateral sides smooth we need to use tunning machine or purchase the whole block and piston. He said that if I can do it with only WD 40 and if the piston slides smoothly inside the block then half job is done.

The below image shows 22,195 km ONLY which I drove in 9 years as everything is around my house.

My local mechanic also said the other reason that caused my valve kit to break was my bike's vibration due to old scissor gear or incorrect settings of scissor gear as well as timing chain. As I kept my bike always in shining condition so the service person thought my bike was new and ignored to replace the timing chain.

Like I told u earlier,those 45degree 'scratch' marks are there for a reason..they are honing marks.what you don't want are vertical scratches,which it present will be seen both on the piston skirt (or in your terms lateral side of piston).
Now,if you valves are damaged,especially broken,then those broken pieces might have probably damaged the bore and piston.
the prices quoted seem on higher side at svc..You basically have two options:

1. New valve kit (replace everything i.e. Valves,valve guide's and seals) they usually get this done at the lathe shop ( aka turning machine)
Along with this a rebore of existing block to next size with a matching new piston.
Spares in this case will be valve kit,and new piston+rings (1000rs. Approx)
Lathe cost for valves and rebore around 1000rs, plus maybe 500 for mechanic

2. Same as 1. with new valve kit
but a new block and piston which will cost 3k approx.
Labor charges around 1000rs

Add any other parts like cam chain,tensioner etc..
If you are getting the crank or con rod replaced,add those costs as well.

So understand your options and get a clear estimates with split up so u know what parts are being replaced.

**javvadi** · 07-14-2018, 06:29 PM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Hi

I have bajaj pulsar 180 UG4 (2012)
After 40,000 kms, it seems one of the oil seal of the front fork is broken and leaking.
Its time to change the fork oil and seals in both the forks.
Is it 160 ML per fork or 320 ML per fork?
The showroom mechanic says 320 ML per fork, where you get 4 bottles (160 ML each)
And another mechanic nearby home says 160 ML per fork is enough. So 320 ML for both the forks.
I'm confused. Please help...

**lockhrt999** · 07-14-2018, 07:22 PM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by javvadi View Post

Hi

I have bajaj pulsar 180 UG4 (2012)
After 40,000 kms, it seems one of the oil seal of the front fork is broken and leaking.
Its time to change the fork oil and seals in both the forks.
Is it 160 ML per fork or 320 ML per fork?
The showroom mechanic says 320 ML per fork, where you get 4 bottles (160 ML each)
And another mechanic nearby home says 160 ML per fork is enough. So 320 ML for both the forks.
I'm confused. Please help...

It's 320 ml per fork for UG4 and above. So total 4 bottles. Old models need only 160ml per fork.

You need to change seal on only side where it's broken. No need to change both if one is good.

You can also get fork oil from motul. Price is similar to Bajaj.

**ashwinprakas** · 07-15-2018, 12:08 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by javvadi View Post

Hi

I have bajaj pulsar 180 UG4 (2012)
After 40,000 kms, it seems one of the oil seal of the front fork is broken and leaking.
Its time to change the fork oil and seals in both the forks.
Is it 160 ML per fork or 320 ML per fork?
The showroom mechanic says 320 ML per fork, where you get 4 bottles (160 ML each)
And another mechanic nearby home says 160 ML per fork is enough. So 320 ML for both the forks.
I'm confused. Please help...

320 ML it is.

And thumb rule is that both forks should be overhauled at the same time with both oil and dust seals changed.

Since you're taking the shocks off it would be a good time to change the coneset as well if not already changed.

**ashwanth.r** · 07-15-2018, 12:35 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

320 ML it is.

And thumb rule is that both forks should be overhauled at the same time with both oil and dust seals changed.

Since you're taking the shocks off it would be a good time to change the coneset as well if not already changed.

Ashwin, how often should the cone set be changed? Or will simple re-greasing every x kms be sufficient ?

**ashwinprakas** · 07-15-2018, 02:31 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Ashwin, how often should the cone set be changed? Or will simple re-greasing every x kms be sufficient ?

I change my coneset and overhaul forks every 15k km's, I rather go with that than have my seals blow when I least expect it to.

**javvadi** · 07-15-2018, 11:53 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by lockhrt999 View Post

It's 320 ml per fork for UG4 and above. So total 4 bottles. Old models need only 160ml per fork.

You need to change seal on only side where it's broken. No need to change both if one is good.

You can also get fork oil from motul. Price is similar to Bajaj.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

320 ML it is.

And thumb rule is that both forks should be overhauled at the same time with both oil and dust seals changed.

Since you're taking the shocks off it would be a good time to change the coneset as well if not already changed.

Thank you for the info guys.
I'll go for Motul and new seals for both the forks.
Will get the 'cone-set' checked and replace if necessary.

**rainydriver** · 07-15-2018, 10:05 PM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by Nathaniel Peter View Post

I finally found the YOUTUBE video where a man paid his total bill of Rs.16000 as his R15 engine is seized as he ignored to replace engine oil. But in my case I changed the engine oil regularly and I only drove 25,000 km since 2009. Do I get the same total bill like him? I am not a rash driver.

It all started when I removed my clutch case and the scissor gear secretly had a spin but I haven't noticed it but I saw it after I removed the clutch case to inspect the timing chain settings. When I kept the clutch case back then scissor gear was secretly rotated from the background and when I went to my ZOOM coaching centre then my bike had vibrations and when I came back home and again removed it to inspect it then at this point I purchased the scissor gear tool and kept the scissor gear settings which is anti clockwise and clock wise rotation of 2 turns from both ends. At this point my bike fail to start. So I bought a new Exide battery but it failed to start. I also purchased motor starter but I later found that the old motor starter is working when I tested it with wires as it spins perfectly. When my bike failed to start so I finally took it to the local mechanic where he opened the engine and showed me the broken wall seal.

At first when I came to all mechanics they ignored to replace the timing chain as my bike was in running condition and now they say that the estimated bill may reach Rs.15000. I was hunting every video to cure my bike and I learnt that ignorance by anyone is the key to damage anything in life. I am not the part of ignorance.

Had you correctly set the position of output shaft of transmission and crankshaft before inserting back the scissor/balancer gear ? I don't exactly remember but I have seen in a youtube video that one of the teeths of final drive/gear of crankshaft(the one which is above the oil strainer/cleaner) has a mark on it and that teeth must be at the top. I think some of issues you were getting after that may be due to this misalignment if this all was the case.

**rainydriver** · 07-16-2018, 12:40 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Aaaaah My phone/browser is behaving bad for now, nevermind.

Hello lovely experts! I'm new in here. I have a month ago bought a 2nd hand P180 UG3 (2008 model/manufacturing), that one which came with clip-ons handlebar. I think it was the first and last model of UG3 that had those features upgraded before UG4 came out, nevermind. I bought it at only 18,000 Rupees and had around 64240 on odo. Everything is going almost excellent so far.

First thing I want you all to know that I have been reading this whole thread since the start and it took me a little more than a month to full complete/read it, I wanted no question be asked by me that had already been asked since it is really annoying and I understand, hence I did that. I heartwarmly want to thank all of you who unknowingly helped me understand 'should do' and 'shouldn't do' things for this model.

Right now everything is going fine, I'll let you all know if I face any strange problem.

One thing I am extremely afraid of happening is keep riding the bike while engine is low on engine oil, when this is unbeknownst to me. I am asking this because I can't get a glimpse of engine oil quantity through that small circled window at the bottom right side of the right side of the crankcase because it is completely blacked out and I don't want to open the crankcase just to wipe the smudge from that since the pickup is good enough that means at least for now clutch part seems to be okayish (It is with P220F's sprocket set hehe) and there is no problem reaching upto 9.5k RPM in neutral (since there is no road around my area, Bilaspur (C.G.) with enough straight stretch to do so in practical and the speedo sensor cable seems to have went kaput as the last time it stuck on 107 km/h for 5 seconds resulted in 111.9 km/h in GPS and I am right now very afraid to do more speed for now) to see if the piston/cylinder compression is good or not. My question is, can I relay on the RPM info by checking max RPM once per week or so to know that the engine is not burning any unnecessary engine oil (there seems to be no white smoke at all even at 9.5k RPM fortunately, for now) because if oil does burn anyway then either it signifies cylinder wall or piston to be kaput which in turn will obviously reduce compression that in turn should reduce the bike's capability to reach at same RPM at same level of air-fuel delivery as before the system went kaput? I am sorry this sounds so stupid but I am very interestes to know other methods if there are any, so that I could know if the bike is running under sufficient engine oil or should I just get that hey-get-a-sneak-peak-of-engine-oil circled window cleaned ?
Thank you everyone in advance.

**Nathaniel Peter** · 07-17-2018, 12:00 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by javvadi View Post

Hi

I have bajaj pulsar 180 UG4 (2012)
After 40,000 kms, it seems one of the oil seal of the front fork is broken and leaking.
Its time to change the fork oil and seals in both the forks.
Is it 160 ML per fork or 320 ML per fork?
The showroom mechanic says 320 ML per fork, where you get 4 bottles (160 ML each)
And another mechanic nearby home says 160 ML per fork is enough. So 320 ML for both the forks.
I'm confused. Please help...

If you plan to do it yourself make sure to buy an extra 2 bottles as the oil may spill as it happened to me and so I bought extra bottles and done it like pro as it takes more patience to tighten the bottom hex nut. You need to have the driver tool and customised spanner with welded nut at the bottom of the spanner. A quite SUNDAY free time is enough to fix it. I briefly described here in this link with my other ID as Natfx7

xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yourself/25960-how-replace-motorcycle-fork-oil-fork-reconditioning.html

**javvadi** · 07-17-2018, 09:57 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by Nathaniel Peter View Post

If you plan to do it yourself make sure to buy an extra 2 bottles as the oil may spill as it happened to me and so I bought extra bottles and done it like pro as it takes more patience to tighten the bottom hex nut. You need to have the driver tool and customised spanner with welded nut at the bottom of the spanner. A quite SUNDAY free time is enough to fix it. I briefly described here in this link with my other ID as Natfx7
https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-your...ditioning.html

DIY is my thing but I didn't get lucky this time. Its all done.
I appreciate the information you have provided.

**javvadi** · 07-17-2018, 05:28 PM

Right-Side Up vs. Upside Down

Have anyone ever tried Upside Down Forks mod for pulsar or any other variant?
I've gone curious after watching this video from MC garage on youtube
Right-Side Up vs. Upside Down – Why Are Inverted Forks So Good? | MC GARAGE

**Nathaniel Peter** · 07-17-2018, 08:15 PM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by s1d View Post

Like I told u earlier,those 45degree 'scratch' marks are there for a reason..they are honing marks.what you don't want are vertical scratches,which it present will be seen both on the piston skirt (or in your terms lateral side of piston).
Now,if you valves are damaged,especially broken,then those broken pieces might have probably damaged the bore and piston.
the prices quoted seem on higher side at svc..You basically have two options:

1. New valve kit (replace everything i.e. Valves,valve guide's and seals) they usually get this done at the lathe shop ( aka turning machine)
Along with this a rebore of existing block to next size with a matching new piston.
Spares in this case will be valve kit,and new piston+rings (1000rs. Approx)
Lathe cost for valves and rebore around 1000rs, plus maybe 500 for mechanic

2. Same as 1. with new valve kit
but a new block and piston which will cost 3k approx.
Labor charges around 1000rs

Add any other parts like cam chain,tensioner etc..
If you are getting the crank or con rod replaced,add those costs as well.

So understand your options and get a clear estimates with split up so u know what parts are being replaced.

I am planning to give my bike for service later as I am not ready with money and on the other side I am busy writing my notes. However I found the reason of my broken valve from this YOUTUBE VIDEO "Why do engines blow?" by Cameron. At video time 9:14 he clearly described that when the timing chain becomes loose then it gets into contact with the valve and piston and that will snap the valve. So I haven't replaced the timing chain for 9 years with 22,000 km and timing chain became loose and that obviously cracked the valve. Another thing is that when I purchased the new battery then one EXIDE service boy came to my home and removed the spark plug as my bike failed to start but after he removed the spark plug and turned the switch ON my bike stopped cranking or coughing but started sounding like TAK TAK with or without the spark plug. Even before I purchased the new battery my bike used to give nice coughing sound for few seconds and failed to start as my old battery was weak.

My question is what caused the valve to break? Did the EXIDE person broke it or my loose timing chain broke it even before I purchased the battery? However, EXIDE battery person job was to check the battery voltage and leave but he removed one spark plug and started the bike and the bike completely fail to respond? Just before he came I started the bike with little good sound for few seconds by it failed to start. The moment he removed it then it totally fail to show starting sound but showed sound like TAK TAK.

**ashwinprakas** · 07-19-2018, 02:57 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by rainydriver View Post

Aaaaah My phone/browser is behaving bad for now, nevermind.

Hello lovely experts! I'm new in here. I have a month ago bought a 2nd hand P180 UG3 (2008 model/manufacturing), that one which came with clip-ons handlebar. I think it was the first and last model of UG3 that had those features upgraded before UG4 came out, nevermind. I bought it at only 18,000 Rupees and had around 64240 on odo. Everything is going almost excellent so far.

First thing I want you all to know that I have been reading this whole thread since the start and it took me a little more than a month to full complete/read it, I wanted no question be asked by me that had already been asked since it is really annoying and I understand, hence I did that. I heartwarmly want to thank all of you who unknowingly helped me understand 'should do' and 'shouldn't do' things for this model.

Right now everything is going fine, I'll let you all know if I face any strange problem.

One thing I am extremely afraid of happening is keep riding the bike while engine is low on engine oil, when this is unbeknownst to me. I am asking this because I can't get a glimpse of engine oil quantity through that small circled window at the bottom right side of the right side of the crankcase because it is completely blacked out and I don't want to open the crankcase just to wipe the smudge from that since the pickup is good enough that means at least for now clutch part seems to be okayish (It is with P220F's sprocket set hehe) and there is no problem reaching upto 9.5k RPM in neutral (since there is no road around my area, Bilaspur (C.G.) with enough straight stretch to do so in practical and the speedo sensor cable seems to have went kaput as the last time it stuck on 107 km/h for 5 seconds resulted in 111.9 km/h in GPS and I am right now very afraid to do more speed for now) to see if the piston/cylinder compression is good or not. My question is, can I relay on the RPM info by checking max RPM once per week or so to know that the engine is not burning any unnecessary engine oil (there seems to be no white smoke at all even at 9.5k RPM fortunately, for now) because if oil does burn anyway then either it signifies cylinder wall or piston to be kaput which in turn will obviously reduce compression that in turn should reduce the bike's capability to reach at same RPM at same level of air-fuel delivery as before the system went kaput? I am sorry this sounds so stupid but I am very interestes to know other methods if there are any, so that I could know if the bike is running under sufficient engine oil or should I just get that hey-get-a-sneak-peak-of-engine-oil circled window cleaned ?
Thank you everyone in advance.

You can change the oil inspection window if yours is totally blacked out.

If there is no smoke and the motorcycle runs right and holds the adequate amount of oil with minimal drops then all is well.

As for gearing I ride a P220 and run a 40T up rear, how on earth are you fine with running a P220's 36T at rear.

Anyway remember, it is not about how fast you go but rather how far you go, so keep the speedo in check whereas let the odo keep climing at a steady phase.

**rainydriver** · 07-19-2018, 11:44 AM

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

You can change the oil inspection window if yours is totally blacked out.

If there is no smoke and the motorcycle runs right and holds the adequate amount of oil with minimal drops then all is well.

That is what I checked first. Fortunately there is no kind of smoke even at 9k+ RPM, at least for now. Bike doesn't struggle to reach max RPM (UG3; cut off at around ~10k according to user manual, tried once in neutral), this signifies the compression is okay, at least for now.

Although I could't find a single drop on the ground at all and the last engine oil(Castrol Power 1 20W50, Rs.390/-) quantity looked okay when it was removed within 1900kms(now it is with Motul-7100 20W50), but I do notice that the bottom of crankcase always remains a little bit of wet(not exactly wet, it is kind of moisture with dust attached to it) with some dust. I took the bike to the so called godfather of bajaj motorcycles of my area and showed him that, he said this is normal for almost all bajaj bikes and it is not a problem until you actually see the drops on the ground, but I insisted anyway to change the gasket as I had already bought the gasket kit but he kept saying it is not a problem for now and it will cost Rs.700 to replace all gaskets, I agreed and moved on. Is it literally normal for all (old gen)Pulsars to have a very little bit of moisture and dust attached at the bottom of engine/crankcase? Since the bike has already crossed over 68k kms on odo, in my opinion, I will take extra care of it and will keep change FS engine oil under 4-5k kms.

As for gearing I ride a P220 and run a 40T up rear, how on earth are you fine with running a P220's 36T at rear.

Anyway remember, it is not about how fast you go but rather how far you go, so keep the speedo in check whereas let the odo keep climing at a steady phase.

I am toward efficiency inclined. Being a web developer and the trait of follwing my obsessive complusion disorder of writing as much efficient and fast code as possible in every activity I can do is probably why I am actually loving the P220F's sprocket set.
I only wanted a bike for touring only(this is my first bike lol) and I am also past the age of all the thoughts of acting as a hooligan biker that we used to do on friends' bikes 12 years ago.

Okay long story short, I don't know how most users haven't realized and talked about in here is that 180 UG3(2006-2008) actually came with 1Nm of more torque (15.2 Nm) as compared to UG4 and UG4+ (2009-20xx) that now come with 14.2 Nm of torque. And that too comes at lower RPM; 6k RPM (UG3) vs 6.5k RPM(UG4), making UG3 quicker if all other affecting variablea are same. And theoretically (hopefully practically too), that makes UG3 stock quicker than UG4 stock and I thought when my main intension is not at all to race or show off then I can compensate little bit of that extra quickness into more speed at each RPM that not only result in more mileage, doing so will also put even less strain on engine, and that is good for long touring. After changing the sprocket set, I did notice the decrease in pickup but I can always compensate it by riding at lower gear and the feel I get when I see 10+ km/h of speed improvements on 5k and 6k RPM and 12+ km/h on 7k RPM is literally awesome. My bike will remain this way, and I do believe that pickup at each gear should still be on par(highly likely) or may be even better(unlikely) than the stock UG4 due to the torque difference. But honestly I am not that much of an optimistic though and I know the grass may not be always greener on the other side lol because all this I am feeling only applies when assuming that Bajaj would not make UG4 actually more efficient than UG3 because if it is true than what I am feeling due to paper torque may be nothing but mere a effect of placebo, but until proven otherwise I will stick to the thought that it is still at least on per with UG4. Nevermind, the feel of overtaking most vehicles is still the same. This is the story man. And this is why I am loving this sprocket.

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