Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Indeed indeed. I follow this too. I never power accelerate just to show off or do unnecessary noise, I save the sudden acceleration for when I really need it, and I believe this is the best way one can ride safely as well as feel the power of engine that also will put smile on your face.

Last time I did 477 kms in 21 hrs that included 4 hours of sleep in between and lots of stoppages to appreciate the awesome nature and jungle. My bike surprisingly got me a little over 57 kmpl of mileage (reserve to reserve observation). Before overgearing (when it was with 15/44 that is of P150 UG3)and with same riding style I pulled 54 kmpl completeing 260 kms.

With a pillion of 50 kgs ( I am of 65 kgs), the least I got is 43 kmpl in 160 kms of touring, that included 50+ km/h most of the time with 90-100 km/h 10% of time when on absolute empty road.

I think I am lucky to get this bike at this price and will try the best to keep it that way.

What I am going to say seems joke to most lol I understand sometimes I think that too but I am seriously thinking to make it run for 1,50,000+ kms, I know what I am asking for, if I don't become a victim of scarcity of necessary parts in future (already have started making a full list of UG4+ parts that may/can be used in UG3 from both bikes' spare parts and catalog manual while comparing each part's part number, since UG3 specific parts have been discontinued, lets see if I can do it or not.). I have done over 5000 kms within 45 days yay.

P.S. About 15-27 innocents (until proven guilty) have been killed by mob lynching within two months under the suspicion of cow killers or child lifters, until that stops lol I am holding off my touring side of brain for now.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

A motorcycle with compromised compression would also bounce off the limiter in neutral where there is no load. To do a proper compression test you would need to source a compression gauge or make one if the situation demands as there is no definite way of guessing if compression is adequate. Though if everything else is well then you could skip this unless OCD takes over.

Using a cheaper and reliable mineral oil for 2k km's would do more good for the motorcycle than use an expensive FS and changing at longer intervals. There is blow by and clutch wear residue that gets mixed along with the engine oil and extending oil change intervals is as counter productive as it can get.

Efficiency is not about extracting maximum fuel efficiency from a motor which ironically is not the case with overgearing as people tend to believe, efficiency is all about optimizing the full potential of the motorcycle in all aspects. On an overgeared motorcycle you would be putting excess load on the crank, clutch and transmission as compared to what it was designed to hold, and this is something that you wont straight away notice on the straights, but once you start touring instead of commuting then it would bite you in the rear when you least expect it to.

My P220 on stock gearing was dope as far as the highways went, my bi-weekly commute was 1600 km's 800km's one side home and back from my hostel during college days, the P220 would glide along at 120~130kmph with minimal throttle input and I was more than happy with the motorcycle, but once out of the blue we decided to head for Guruvayur which is just a 100+ km's from my home and that's when I realized that with luggage and a pillion the motorcycle was unable to climb some inclines even in 1st gear without pinging.

Another downside of a tall gearing is that it adversely affects riding dynamics, your engine braking and acceleration would not be as efficient as was originally designed to be, this can be a dangerous to an extent when it comes to slowing down efficiently as well as getting out of a pickle when required.

Acceleration is not just about being a hooligan, it has more to do about efficiently performing an overtake which is something a good percent of Indians get wrong, once you have a clear line of sight you notify the driver in front of you and overtake with surgical precision and for that you need acceleration. The less informed people who overtake at a snails pace are not only putting themselves at risk but also risking the lives of other road users not to mention being a huge inconvenience. People have a notion that being in the tallest possible gear and doing the lowest RPM would give you the best fuel efficiency possible but that is not actually true, the motor gives the best possible fuel efficiency at its optimum performance range and as for fuel consumption it depends on throttle input and has nothing to do with RPM's and gearing in the short term.

Specs on paper only go so far to allure a potential buyer. If the motorcycle is running right then that is all that should matter, just make sure to account for load from carrying luggage/pillion and climbing uphill and if all is right then do keep the gearing to your taste if not then go stock.

The reason I run a short gearing is cause I haul luggage and am able to utilize the motorcycles performance more, as going +4 teeth has still no noticeable effects on the top speed which goes to show how over geared the motorcycle is in stock form with a final drive ratio of 2.6 whereas with a 40T at rear I land at a decent(still tall by normal standards) ratio of 2.85, all things considered try to keep the ration not taller than 2.75 and not shorter than 3.10 if you really wish to efficiently utilize your motorcycle.

Do watch this video when you find the time;

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

@ashwinprakas, thanks for all the info, I'll take every point into consideration. Btw if you are under the impression that I let my bike's engine lug/knock specifically due to the overgearing then you are totally wrong. I never let the engine lug, never, ever never. Because I know lugging is the moat easiest way one can damage their engine(of course it too depends on the frequency and time period of lugging). And for all the situations I have faced till now including tens of ghat area, current overgearing with a pillion is not a problem with me(or precisely, it is the riding style that include smooth and gradual acceleration that let the bike reach at its optimum speed while holding the throttle at a constant position, till the rear wheel rpm and cumbustion reaches equilibrium at that specific quantity of air-fuel mixture that is directly connected to our right hand). Yes the only significant thing I have observed after overgearing is that I now use 2nd and 3rd gear more often than before, inside the city(still no lugging, and no unnecessary high RPM). Theoretically this may make my bike's transmission's 2nd and 3rd gears(driver and driven) to wear out at 'relatively' faster rate among other bikes of similar hardware on the street. But the degree of happening of this kind of damage and the time of it are still unknown and can only be observed in long term if it does have to happen anyway. Lets see what happens till then.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

My Pulsar 180 UG4 Front Disc is jammed and tyre is not rotating freely and engine is getting heated.
Upon checking the caliper, pistons stuck and doesn't retract. So trying to rebuild the caliper
How do I detach Bolt Flange which has Protection Boot and Insulator of Front Caliper Assembly?
There are screws on both ends of Protection Boot and Insulator but I'am not able to unscrew them.
I tried to hammer the Bolt Flange slightly but it doesn't detach. Should I use more force to detach it?

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

You do not need to hammer it or unscrew anything, the design is called a floating caliper for a reason, just slide it off.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

It doesn't slide at all. This is where I've hammered it. I assume, I need a soft face/rubber hammer.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Use brake fluid and let it set overnight. I would not suggest using undue force as it can compromise the calipers material integrity.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Thank you. Sounds good to me.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Also if able to source, try forming a mixture of Acetone and ATF, I recently read an article that the aforementioned mixture is the best penetrative solution around.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Use WD 40 spray to loosen the screw.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

My pulsar 180 ug4 making annoying noise from right side of the engine(clutch side). When engine is cold, its running like new bike, after running 1,2km its making making that annoying sound. First I think it's from tappet or may be timing chain, but it's not. And also my engine getting hot, even its short ride like 3,4km. May be it's from lean afr setting, adjusted it but engine still get hot. Please help me...

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

What sound are you referring to?

Being an air cooled motorcycle it is bound to get hot, and since there are several moving components inside it is normal for some rattle to be there.

So only bother if you hear anything unusual i.e loose foundation, timing chain rattle, tappet noise or clutch basket.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)


I think the unusual noise is from clutch basket. How to fix this ? Help me

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Open clutch cover and inspect.

Do have a look at the balancer as well.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)


Thank you for the suggestions and sorry for the delay in replying.
What actually worked for me was to heat it with gas welding and one good hit with a soft face hammer, it got detached.