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**segagt_0** · 12-28-2011, 04:18 PM

hello everyone, i need to ask you guys a question.. have you guys felt loss of power after a prolonged driving and heating of engine...like say after continuous driving for around 50 kms?? I feel that there is a good loss of power when i drive for about 40 kms and when i come back home which is a bit sloppy (not totally plain, have to climb minimum inclination), i feel great loss of power in my cbz xtreme.. and that too without ripping..with sane driving.. i can feel it at speed breakers while slowing down and then again picking up speed..i guess that is happening because of the liquid cooling not present in our bike.. ??

**ashwinprakas** · 12-28-2011, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post

@ ashwin : i need to check my valve clearance as i doubt these are tight causing instable RPM.

SVC guys arent doing,i dnt have much time/tools for the same. how much it would cost if i get it done outside ??

Tight cause the bike to die when running on lower RPM's, not sure about their stability though.

Anyways its a RS.50/- Job. But its better you do it yourself. And since you have a naked bike, will take less than 5mins.

Originally posted by segagt_0 View Post

hello everyone, i need to ask you guys a question.. have you guys felt loss of power after a prolonged driving and heating of engine...like say after continuous driving for around 50 kms?? I feel that there is a good loss of power when i drive for about 40 kms and when i come back home which is a bit sloppy (not totally plain, have to climb minimum inclination), i feel great loss of power in my cbz xtreme.. and that too without ripping..with sane driving.. i can feel it at speed breakers while slowing down and then again picking up speed..i guess that is happening because of the liquid cooling not present in our bike.. ??

And you forgot to mention increased engine noise

Its normal if you're bike's inside 5k kms old, if above then suspect the gudgeon pin.

**itssaurabh.negi** · 12-28-2011, 05:44 PM

Originally posted by Crank49 View Post

Bought OSRAM HS1 Cool Blue for 220. How can I fit it inside? Which screws do i need to take out for that?

u need to open the front headlight assembly for that. Atleast 10-12 screws to be opened including number plate screws. Just remember which screws belongs to where . and watch carefully the bulb holding spring type of thing inside a Black rubber cap.i have lost the same

.

**itssaurabh.negi** · 12-28-2011, 05:50 PM

Originally posted by segagt_0 View Post

i can feel it at speed breakers while slowing down and then again picking up speed..i guess that is happening because of the liquid cooling not present in our bike.. ??

Ditto here!! and did u find hard to brake with pillions???

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Tight cause the bike to die when running on lower RPM's, not sure about their stability though.

My ride cant hold 10 sec without throttle,even if its pretty warmed up.i was told that valves are tight,which of them is tight,inlet or outlet ??

Anyways its a RS.50/- Job. But its better you do it yourself. And since you have a naked bike, will take less than 5mins.

Naked?? IMO tank will have to be removed for that

And you forgot to mention increased engine noise

Its normal if you're bike's inside 5k kms old, if above then suspect the gudgeon pin.
Why so for first 5000Km???

Changed ewngine oil due to winters and started feeling much high noise in my ride.

**ashwinprakas** · 12-28-2011, 07:40 PM

^^^

Exhaust valve, cause if the intake valves tight then the bike wont start.

By naked, I meant. You dont have to remove the fairing to removed the tank. In ZMA we'd have to first remove fairing, then the side panels, and then only we can remove the tank.

The symptoms mentioned are a result of premature overheating, which is inturn caused by.

1. Uber lean engine.

2. Friction from grinding, which is commonly caused by mis aligned gudgeon pin.

A new engine normally gets overheated even after running for a short time, I dont have a technical reason for it, but it is just so, and hence cannot be determined before 5k(since the engine's kinda new till 5k), but after that point all the engine parts have equal wear and tear and so there is no reason for the following to happen, so the next best thing to suspect is the gudgeon pin.

**Bubbly** · 12-28-2011, 07:45 PM

Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post

most of us feel the somewhat same. philips/osram nightbreaker can be the option,check whijh of these suits ur budget.

Stock is 35w.... But night breaker is 55w... How can i go for the night breaker then?

**itssaurabh.negi** · 12-28-2011, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by Bubbly View Post

Stock is 35w.... But night breaker is 55w... How can i go for the night breaker then?

oops.u wont get a significant change by switching any oither 35W halogen IMO. best option would be HID 35W preferably,with MIGHT BE BATTERY upgradation(4 => 6Ah). for highwer wattage Halo bulb u have to reroute the wiring.

**itssaurabh.negi** · 12-28-2011, 10:13 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

^^^

Exhaust valve, cause if the intake valves tight then the bike wont start.

By naked, I meant. You dont have to remove the fairing to removed the tank. In ZMA we'd have to first remove fairing, then the side panels, and then only we can remove the tank.

Ok in that case i can say so . by d way i cant do that much of stuff from my own and i dnt have those specific tools either,would b better to get it done by mechanic in frnt of me.will get it done soon.
actually RPM oscilaate and finally stalls if put idle for few swcs. Its worst in traffic,engine dies all of a sudden .

**ashwinprakas** · 12-28-2011, 10:37 PM

Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post

Ok in that case i can say so . by d way i cant do that much of stuff from my own and i dnt have those specific tools either,would b better to get it done by mechanic in frnt of me.will get it done soon.
actually RPM oscilaate and finally stalls if put idle for few swcs. Its worst in traffic,engine dies all of a sudden .

Okies, its your call, but be cautious and make sure the mech uses the proper tools etc. And also make sure he doesnt overtighten the bolts. And its better you get a spare set of bolts and O Rings, just in case.

And just to fulfill my curiousity ride the bike at 60Kmph and clutch the bike and when it stalls, release the clutch and see if its comming back to life.
Cause recently a guy in the R15 thread had this issue and said this was one of the symptoms noticed.

**abhisheklalnediya** · 12-28-2011, 11:37 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Its normal if you're bike's inside 5k kms old, if above then suspect the gudgeon pin.

me too have similar experience but i think, the engine is getting smoother

**ashwinprakas** · 12-28-2011, 11:39 PM

Originally posted by abhisheklalnediya View Post

me too have similar experience but i think, the engine is getting smoother

ODO Reading please.

**abhisheklalnediya** · 12-28-2011, 11:41 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Tight cause the bike to die when running on lower RPM's, not sure about their stability though.

Anyways its a RS.50/- Job. But its better you do it yourself. And since you have a naked bike, will take less than 5mins.

And you forgot to mention increased engine noise

Its normal if you're bike's inside 5k kms old, if above then suspect the gudgeon pin.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

ODO Reading please.

400
im talking abt the loss of power

**Crank49** · 12-29-2011, 11:48 PM

Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post

u need to open the front headlight assembly for that. Atleast 10-12 screws to be opened including number plate screws. Just remember which screws belongs to where . and watch carefully the bulb holding spring type of thing inside a Black rubber cap.i have lost the same

.

Thank you brother.

**adnansanni** · 01-02-2012, 12:22 PM

After had bad luck with the New CBZxtreme, I sold that and bought Hunk (duel disk).

I've a question; is it really necessary to clean "Engine Oil Strainer Screen" and "Engine Oil Centrifugal Filter" within first 1000km? here everybody are telling me, not to do that and don't open the right crankcase cover because of its a new engine. Even Hero-Honda service center doesn't agree to do that. they said; no need.

**psr** · 01-02-2012, 12:57 PM

Originally posted by adnansanni View Post

After had bad luck with the New CBZxtreme, I sold that and bought Hunk (duel disk).

I've a question; is it really necessary to clean "Engine Oil Strainer Screen" and "Engine Oil Centrifugal Filter" within first 1000km? here everybody are telling me, not to do that and don't open the right crankcase cover because of its a new engine. Even Hero-Honda service center doesn't agree to do that. they said; no need.

Yes no need to open the crank case and clean the centrifugal filter,NOW,.... but later at 20 K Kms...YES.

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