AFR SCREW, OR AIR FUEL SCREW,This is the screw we use to tune the fuel flow to engine,So if we rotate it clockwise(Closing),the air fuel mixture will become lean,ie less fuel and more air ,this will give you more mileage but will result in overheating engine.So if you turn it anti clockwise(opening),it will become rich,more fuel and less air,will reduce mileage but throttle response will be very good,so you have to tune and keep it in optimum setting,so no NOT LEAN AND NOT RICH POSITION. Tuning is simple if you check the color of the sparkplug tip,if the sparkplug tip is dark,it indicates rich mixture,so we can tune it leaner by a half turn of afr screw and can check again,if its whitish color,its lean,we have to make it a bit rich,if its tan color,its the optimum setting. Hope you get this all.

how ? isn't semi synthetic better than mineral oil ?

Many many thanks ashwinprakas and Aneesh@4GHz.
It helps me lot. I'll try myself. I hope this is the main culprit for unstable RPM and engine stopped. I really don't want to open top of the engine to adjust tappet, cause the machine is new. Today it becomes more horrible, maximum time it stop the engine when RPM goes to bounce.

[QUOTE=cbz rules ;745711]
I have rode some 100 kms since the chain was cleaned and lubed ant chain noise was very minimal and smooth. Now the rear wheel is rotating smoothly bt I feel some noise in chain rotation. Please help me out.

Yeah technically speaking its superior, but the thing is, SS and FS have finer particles compared to mineral, and so when riding at WOT, there are higher chances of oil leaks.

Ride the bike for 10Kms.
Increase idle to 5k(or the highest value possible.)
Close the AFR screw, Now RPM will come down and start varying.
Open the AFR screw slowly till a point which the RPM stops varying, now bring the idle to 1.5K done. Now you're at the optimum setting.

Might be out of lube. Check lubing.

thats ok because I won't be riding with WOT anyways

Then no worries, it will suit you fine, plus, the drain period is also twice longer than mineral.

Hello guys, just a small query... Can we use castrol Gtx 20w40 oil (Dubai made) in our cbz xtreme??
Thanks in advance.

Yes but the user have to check the oil every 1000kms and may have to topup if there is any loss in oil level.

Castrol GTX Oil is for cars and NOT for bikes,Its not recommended to use Castrol GTX in a bike.It will cause clutch slips,So answer is NO.

Hi,

I have been having issues with my chain after my 3rd service. Sound of the chain rubbing the chain guard which is does not happen continuously but at random scenarios. There was no particular scenario to reproduce. I was going mad about it.

I took the bike to HH SVC 3-4 times but they used to tighten the chain and give it back to me saying there are no issues.

I was getting the issue again and got vexed.

Took it to local mechanic walas. Changed the chain link lock, checked wheel alignment. Everything looked fine.

I was riding almost 2k kms with the issue still ON.

During my 4th service the HH service engineer suggested me to change the sprockets. I was really shocked to hear this. How can a sprocket go kaput so early (within 6k kms)?. They told me that they cannot replace it under warranty and I have to spend 1000 bucks from my pocket. I didn't change the sprockets.

Last saturday took my bike to a local mech.

Opened the chain guard, removed the chain and investigated the front and rear sprockets. The mech told me that both the sprockets look good. He said that it can easily go on further (Currently my ODO is 8200kms).

There was lots of dirty grease everywhere. The chain was washed with kerosene and was given a thorough water treatment. All the dirty grease stuck at various spots wre cleaned. After the chain was clean and shiny, it was put back again with a new chain link lock (Costs around 15 bucks). The mech usede gear oil for lubrication. I asked him why he hasn't used grease, he replied saying that this will do the job fine.

Now I have been riding for around 100kms. I could not hear the tak tak sound till now. Seems to be the issue has been arrested.

Got to test even more. If it is fixed then "All is well".

Can any of u guys get what has happened in my scenario?

Also regarding the chain lubrication. Which one goes well? Oil or grease or chain lube spray???

tips for new bikers

Hi,

I bought HH cbz xtreme 2011 yesterday,
done 88.2 kms till now
I as this is my first byke, my review is not so valuable,
But as i rode pulsar 180,150 of my friends, cbz is superb
its having comfortable yet sporty seating,
low vibration while acclerating when compared to p180.

my second gear is very hard while shifing from 1, but its smooth when lowered from 3rd to 2nd, is this usual in new bykes?

I went up to 60 : is 60 good for first 500?

my friend recommended me teflon cotting good, should i go for it?

I need better milage, should I go for better engine oil on first service?
-I don't know which one I am currently using.

Congrats bro!!

As most of us here would recommend you to change the oil @ outside mechanic around first 100,250 Kms and then @ 1st free service @ 500Kms. It might look silly to others but believe me u wont regret it a bit lateron.

Njoy ur ride and ride safe!!!

Clutch Cable!!!

Hello i would like to know what are the signs of a worn out clutch cable, i have a 3.5 yrs old 45000 kms Hunk i dont know if its time to get my clutch cable replaced.So need guidance from you guys. I do have harsh gear shift at times and also my bike stalls at times at signals so pls let me know ppl

If the chain link had gone bad then the periodic tak tak sound will be heard.Initially it will be while accelerating,and afterwards as the link wears more the sound will become consistent.A new chain link will solve the problem....if your chain is stretched or the sprockets have worn,then sound will reappear as the new link will also get damaged after some time.