I get mine from the TVS SVC.

@ on wheels

Exactly as Sarvajit said, the 1st mistake you’ve done by using the Premium Fuels. Basically those Premium fuels in India, only have fuel additives, as they promise for extra octane, I doubt about that. Coz extra octane fuels don’t need any fuel additive, itself the fuel produce more power than normal. Premium fuels deposit more carbon into the engine so its not good for long time. Even Unleaded fuel too deposit carbon but the amount is very less.

Use normal unleaded fuel and always try to get that from one reputed fuel pump regularly.

Hunk and CBZ x Compression Ratio is 9.1:1, Yamaha R15’s Compression Ratio is 10.4:1

However 90 octane fuels is best for 9.1:1 Compression Ratio engines, but the clean fuel is hard to get here.Fuel with additives just increase the pickup and a very lil mileage like these premium fuels do ( Speed, power etc ) but it deposit more carbon into the engine.

Always try to keep the top speed within max 85kmph to 90kmph. If you are touring at constant 90kmph speed then always give the bike a lil rest for 15min after each 30mins.

I did my 3 servicing at the service center, then I noticed they do nothing. After that I do the servicing by myself. And from the beginning I’m using Unleaded fuel.

No fuel cleans the engine, only seafoam with fuel clean the carb and engine combustion chamber too.

Rightly said, but please note that normal Unleaded fuel is 87 octane, maybe Shell Regular Unleaded is 89 octane&IOC Extra Premium/Shell Super are 91 octane.
I have already tried out 91 octane on my older bike, Fiero F2&found a lot of plug deposits&a bit of clutch slippage too. So switched back to regular fuel with Bardahl fuel additives. Pinging/knocking&clutch slippage gone.
For that matter even fully synthetic oil didn't suit that bike, while my R15 is happiest running on Yamalube semi-synth!

Yes, thats why the combo of the synthetic oil+91 octane petrol didn't do any good for my bike&she had an upset stomach!

@ soumen.sam

Would just like to correct that higher octane fuels dont produce extra power. They are more resistant to knocking. They burn smoother & dont explode like low octane fuel. Hence suited in higher compression engines (>11.0).
Also it is not true that high octane fuels cause more bad than good in comparatively low compression (<10.0) engines.

@ chidafn

@rahul9985

I felt motuls good only for initial 500kms...later after..I dont find that smoothness in the engine. In short its in-consistent. Where as stock oils have been performing good.

Its motul 300V 5W 40 right i been using that oil for 7400+ kms changing it every 3500 KMS never felt the roughness.The last bottle i drained at around 4200km it was still smooth this thing stays green for the 1st 2500 kms
then its color changes slightly the only thing i did not like is it makes the gears a little hard but that problem vanished after i started shifting gears above 5000RPM .

Lights.......???????

Hi Bro..... Anybody please guide me regarding the up gradation of the light of HH Hunk. As I ride 30km at night and I can't even see more than 20feet. Any suggestion??????????

No buddy here except us.. ha ha..

Dude the lighting issue is very critical. What ever I’ve learned that the stock one is best and trouble free.

There have lots of option to enhance the Drive light.

1> Fog light ( It comes with variety option – ultra white, HID, Projector lam etc )

2>HID – HID is a good option, ultra white light and the focus is very very good. It comes with a power blaster that generates extra power. But the concern is very few range of HID are not allowed in major cities. There have many version of HID Bulb like H1, H4, H7 etc. I clearly don’t know which one is allowed and which one is not. If you blow these lights at few top points of Kolkata like Park Street etc, definitely the traffic officer will fine you. The HID starting from 1.5k, I saw a HID that cost 3k without any warranty, and the shop keeper claimed its good. But there have many other issues like AC, DC power supply, watts, how long the battery can afford the light etc. If you can get a good HID suppose for 3k+ bucks, you can put it on very easily, no modification would be require. Just plug and play. Just check before buying the input power: Voltage, Watts and AC or DC current supply it requires. But still you wont be turn on the light always like the stock one. It will drain the battery much more than the stock one and it has a limited life.


3>The most awesome lighting is Projector HID. It comes with halogen version and HID version also with angel eyes. You can say it’s the optimum light you’ve ever imagine. It cost between 5k to 12k. You wont get a single piece, you have to buy a set, coz these are only for cars. But again the issue is Traffic rules and power supply ( AC, DC, watts ) issue.

Here is an example:



The best option for lighting I think – put one or two good quality Fog light without removing the stock head light. You can get also HID, ultra white, projector version of these lights. This way you can use these lights alternatively. Like just blow where you need it. And turned it of where you feel its not safe.

What the above person said is true. You might be fined if police get hold of you with improper lighting. HID's are damn good but very expensive and it required modifications in wiring etc.,

As per the rules, the max distance that a high beam should cover is 80m or slightly more.

Better to stick to stock lighting.

What is the pressure that is set while filling air ? The bunk guy usually puts 36 Psi for front tyre and 40 Psi for the rear tyre ? Is this a lot ? What is the optimum level with/without a pillion ?

Ya, The high beam is good. 36 in the front and 40 in rear is too high. Though, I some times used 30 in front and 40 in rear and the result is, the bike runs really smooth on good road, but it is very very risky one.

Yes, I am also thinking of fixing the fog light. I need to search for a good mechanic to fix that on my Hunky. Do you have any idea from where I can get a good quality lamps?