Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

oh, i thought we were still talking about your '08 activa. did not notice that you mentioned a dio.
i do not know how to exactly test the tps (i mean each vehicle will have a different set of readings i.e. voltage/resistance values). Maybe if the workshop has a workshop manual (Which they usually do, but never take out often) you can check it for information.
Otherwise simply swap the tps like you did the carb and see if that fixes the issue. that would be simpler than finding info on the tps and hooking up a multimeter.
As for the air suction sound, I can't say much without hearing it or inspecting the scoot. Check the air filter/replace it if its been more than 6k km.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Since you've mentioned you've drilled out, the aluminum casing -- AFR jets are very sensitive to even the slightest movement. Erratic and high idling usually always means we have a leak somewhere or improperly tuned engine, and it's even more plastered since you've mentioned the engine had no effect on the turns. This can and might be a reason, as the screw (aluminum casing) diameter itself might have become bigger to cause slight differences in the ratio. Most probably the carb body where it houses the AFR screw might be damaged or the diameter might have gone bigger. Keep us posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Oh,there is been a mix up,I think you got me confused with someone else All I have is a dio.
I will swap the tps and check it out,sounds simpler,the air filter was changed 4k km back,I understand its hard to say without hearing the sound,its more of a hissing sound,let me see if I can record the same,If it matches I will post it.
I heard that AFR setting can be tricky,how many turns from full tight for optimal power,then I could set idle speed accordingly with the tachometer,the thing is after the carburetor swap I am feeling a slight loss in power,the mechanic guy set it by listening to the engine,he never uses a tachometer,he said it is at the best setting and I know he will set it the same way for my carb too.He is not a fan of speed,so there is no point in arguing with the man.

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thank you for the detailed info,now the scooter is running fine on another spare carburetor(for testing only,still have to return it).
If that's the case as you mentioned,I might have to replace the entire carburetor right?. Will clean and test my carburetor again,will post what happens.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Sure, give it a nice clean wash, reinstall everything, (but keep the spare handy) and give it a try. Most probably if she kicks back with the same problem, with the same old jet, then replacement is the only good solution.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Tps won't affect the idling, check if the afr screw was replaced along with the oring and the spring that sits at the beginning end of the afr screw. I had a similar problem of the carb not responding to a tune, but it turned out to be a fuel cock problem

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Good news,the issue has been resolved,we completely disassembled the entire carburetor and cleaned every thing(was a time consuming job) including all the jets and all the holes on the carb were air blasted,now the AFR is responding againNothing was replaced,but still couldn't understand what went wrong in the first place.

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the TPS was fine as you said,now its idling fine;after cleaning the carb.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Wonderful, so cleaning did work its magic. Jets and carb crevices are so tiny even a small gum up somewhere can ruin the total performance or fuel and air feed to the engine. Now that the problem has been sorted, try using an inline fuel filter if you frequently change the fuel station or you know the fuel you use is pretty much not the finest. Keep a tab on it for a few days though.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

when you remove, clean and put back the carb together and it works, it probably means it was gummed up (maybe not visible to naked eye) and i assume this carb has a rubber diaphragm inside ? Or it might have been a air leak somewhere.
If one does it correctly the first time (i.e. opening it up, cleaning thoroughly and putting it back together) then such issues will be minimized. That's why it's always better to do a full overhaul on these small things (brake calipers, carb's) rather than fidgeting with one item at a time.
I've never seen the need to replace a carb (unless it was stolen or the body physically broken). You get all parts (jets, gasket, float) needed to rebuild the carb.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

I was thinking of changing the jets in the bowl,can I get them at ASC's (jets only) and any idea about the cost?

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Occasionally,I switch fuel stations and I was thinking about the inline fuel filter you mentioned,is it cleanable or replaced at regular intervals? and what about petrol additives and premium petrol,do they help keep the carb clean or is just a marketing trick.I never used premium petrol before,seen it at many fuel stations,they claim it provides better performance.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

You could ask at the svc, but i am not sure they would sell just the jets. But jets are available in the open market. Now since you said the issue is resolved, don't fiddle any further.
You can buy a fuel filter, and it hardly costs 30 bucks. They are not cleanable but just need to be replaced at say 20k km intervals. You can use the additive Adon P (sold at IOC bunks). Even with regular petrol the carb shouldn't gum up very easily and for good measure you can get the carb cleaned every service (i.e 2500~3000km or 6 months).
If you suspect rust or dirt in the petrol tank, it's better you clean the petrol tank once.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Though sid has covered it for the most part, I'd just like to add a few points. Filters can last for years, before requiring a replacement. Those filters are hardly 40 bucks and no they aren't re-washable or cleanable. Once they are gummed up and you see the black sediments below the filter where it creates a sediment-ish layer, it's time to replace the filter. Secondly, there are Adon P and System G fuel additives that are available, the former is Indian Oil and the latter is Bharat Petroleum, though the avlblbty of the latter is a known issue. The former is available in sachets and can be used. Made by Total France.

Thirdly with regards to jet, I'd definitely recommend you to stack up those jets, hardly in and around 100 bucks max for both pilots and main and the needle jet themselves, get them as a pair and save it for future use.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

thank you for the reply I bought the fuel filter,went to IOC fuel station for the additive,they didn't have it in stock,guess have to wait a bit longer.

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thank you for the reply,contacted the ASC about the jets,they didn't have it in stock but agreed to arrange it soon.
Got another issue,what all can cause a spark plug failure? its my friend's bike,the spark plug keeps failing,he changed it like 10 times in the past few months.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Faulty Ignition coil and faulty plug cap can cause premature spark plug failures. First try changing the plug cap with a new one and check the spark quality. The spark should be thick and blue and continous. If you observe, orange and intermittent spark, we have a faulty IC. Replace the ignition coil. If after all this the issue persists, change all three cap/lead IC and CDI.

Usually CDIs last till the lifetime of the vehicle. Spark plug caps and leads overtime tend to crack and oxidize and prevent proper spark from happening. Try inspecting these both, spark plug cap/lead and IC. Also is the spark plug getting fouled? Meaning are the plug ends wet and dark every time the spark plug fails? If yes, then the mixture might be too rich which can cause spark plug fouling.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

thank you for the reply,It has some other type of ignition,no CDI

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

My Activa's front tyre developed air leakages over the past few days. It was not a puncture, but rather it was due to the valve going kaput and leaking air. Also the tyre beading which is in contact with the rim and prevents the air was leaking was also not set properly. Previously I had a vertical air valve now it has been changed to a 90 degree horizontal valve. Also the rim inside was cleaned. Previously the dealer had put in a puncture seal which has caused the liquid to stick to the walls of the rim, resulting in a black-and-white residue to stick to the inner walls of the rim. Now I had this residue cleaned via a sand paper. This residue also has stuck to the lower parts of the tyre. The mechanic said that it was not possible to clean it from the tyre and using sand paper on the tyre might damage the tyre. The cost of the entire operation was Rs 200. The local puncture guy was asking for Rs 250 but he did not have any instruments and would do everything by hand. So I took it to a MRF dealer. My tyre is a MRF tyre.

Previously also I had the same problem and that was due to the puncture seal liquid and a combination of Nitrogen causing the beading to loose contact with the rim. That time I had paid Rs 100 to had the liquid cleaned and removed but it appears that the residue was still left behind which was cleaned again this time.

Just wanted to know did anybody else face a similar problem with the front tyre of the Activa? The mechanic told me that it was due to the fact that the Front rim is bigger but it seemed to me a lot of bum.