I broke my engine in harder than the motorman. Yes I like to really pound on my toys. If it breaks then make it stronger. 20kms old and already redlining and 100% throttle.

Paper filters can only filter out to a certain size micron. What about the smaller particles floating around causing damage? Imagine you have a sieve. You get a scoop of gravel. The bigger pieces get caught in the sieve, the smaller pieces pass through. Once the filter is blocked what happens to the particles?
They simply bypass the filter (if there is a bypass valve) and circulate throughout the engine.
The filter cannot catch these pieces as they are too small. The only way to do so is to dump the oil. Hense the regular oil + filter changes on a new engine.


millions and millions of motorcycles hey
I gave my reasons to support the frequent changes. What are yours? I'm interested to hear and learn. Atleast give valid reasons to your answers.

the oil filter in yamaha fz 16 is built by Purolator.. These guys are not only the experts and global leaders but also one of the best oil filter manufacturers on earth.
You talk of particle size.. These filter has more than 97.5 percent (if its there classic filter) efficiency in retaining particles of 20 micron size and above.. Now you will ask what is 20 microns equivalent to.. It is equivalent to the size of 'bacteria' bacteria comes in sizes from 0.2 microns to 20 microns.. I think anything as small as a bacteria floating around in your engine will not cause any damage to any part. The problem arises when they choke up!!
When will a purolator filter choke - it depends on the size of the filter.. Oil filters comes in numerous folds and the number of folds decide what is the actual size.
A standard car oil filter has the capacity to hold 13 grams of metallic debris.. Which is equivalent to weight of 30 standard size paper clips..
Enough of writing here now the link for more info..
OIL FILTERS EXPOSED Precision Engine
Dont forget to read the filteration mechanism.. Quite interesting!

Only yamaha guys know how much metal their engine will shed during breakin, but if they say 1000 km for first filter change and 10,000 km on subsequent filter change.. They must have done some calculation.

You are not only overdoing the oil change but also the oil filter.. I dont know how much charity you do.. But I am sure you can do more than that.

@Shv18 Thanks a ton read your detailed post on rear tyres cheers

@mad mik i think muztariq has answered for me too.....

Guys please help me out.....

my answers in bold

PIAGGIO XE (1984).

It was before the pujas 2011 that i thought i will buy a motorcycle. And let me tell you that before buying any thing i do lots of research,be it a mobile or a laptop of bikes. so i started my hunt to find a suitable match for my self..... :-) ..After going through various sites..i joted down the options..
1)Yamaha Fazer
2)pulsar 220
3)Honda Dazzler
4)Pulsar 150
5)hero honda Hunk
6)TVS apache rtr 180.
My Budget Rs-70-85k

Let me tell u that i was loking for a bike which will be stylish, fuel economy was not a priority,less maintanence AND WHICH WILL MAKE ME DIFFERT FROM THE CROWD ...as i would ride more on highways less in city(70:30)


So after i short listed the bikes i went to each and every show room to take a test ride.Herohonda was my first destination
1- HERO HONDA HUNK- It was A GOOD ride..though i could not feel the punch in it..more over at 80kmph the bike started shaking..vibrations were there. It offers good mileage. comfort was ok but at the first ride only i opted out.
2 Bajaj pulsar 220- Gr8 bike.good power delivery.speed,control,but my friend owns a pulsar 220 and the mileage which he gets is 33:35(city:highway). Though i felt that the bike doesnt have smooth clutch changes and also i have seen my friend who owns pulsar suffering of high maintanence cost,bad reliability,and the biggest problem,rust and engine refinement gone within 1-1.5 years.Also i have a very trusted mechanic at my place.He said.that if u want to change a bike within 2-3 years go for pulsar and he also said about the above problems ar there......SAME IS THE CASE WITH PULSAR 150..........MORE OVER U WILL SEE PULSAR 150-220 FLYING EVERY WHERE(ITS LIKE A RELIANCE CDMA PHONE-EVERY ONE HAS IT )

3- tVS apache 180- MILEAGE OK. RIDE WAS OK BUT THE ENGINE IS NOT REFINED AS THE HONDA AND YAMAHA...PICKUP IS GOOD,BALANCE IS GOOD. tHE BIKE I GOT TO RIDE HAD A HARD CLUTCH..bUT i had to reject as there were no showroom(good showroom)in my area.
4-Honda Dazzler:-i was satisfied with the bike.Be it mileage ,comfort,honda reliability,smoothness of the ridebraking pickup gear change everything was nice

5-YAMAHA FAZER- When i saw this beauty i knew that this was my ride. It was a awesome experience to ride. good comfort,yamaha reliability,great handling ...super looks ..every thing was just perfect...

So i decided to buy FAZER. At first i was confused between dazzler and fazer..but the muscular looks of fazer attracted me like anything.


I owned the bike and i am riding it from september 2011. It has clocked 10050km.(LAVA RED)

Now i have already told u that i did a lot of research before buying and every thing i say over here is my personal experience.


The Showroom guys of yamaha were very friendly....their customer relation and service is superb. They call me every month to ask if i am satisfied or not.and if i face any problem,they try to resolve it as soon as possible by them.

i Have done 4 servicing till now.1st i have done it at 850 kms(20days).2nd at 2465 km(65 days from 1st service).though the 1st and 2nd service are at 1000 and 3000 km. i did it early and the service center people obliged. They hear to each and every problem or query and take care of them at the earliest. Did 3rd servicing of my babe... clocked 4950km..... she is just awesome.... no such problem.... 4th service at 6982kms...

Now as every one knows that only one headlight glows at a time due to which i had great difficulty driving on highways so on request they connected both the headlight to glow at the same time.(like R15) changed stock head lights to HID....with projectors

Now about the bike....I have done 12--14 long trips with my friend from 300km up down to 800 kms up down.And most of them within a single day (24hrs window) This baby is gr8.. Comfortable seat, good riding position..more over during long rides back and wrist do not pain at all.



LOOKS- This bike has gr8 looks. Every biker who passes me or whom i pass stares at me and my ride ..sHE HAS GREAT LOOKS AND is a beauty. Did some stickering job of course...

HANDLING- Due to the tyres which MRF provides-REVS-it provides great control on road. Though already there are 6 punctures Great braking ,good stability at high speeds 128kmph!!Good discbrakes.When taking sharp turns at high spped i am sure that i wont skid or fall.. This baby has great shockers which handels the road very well. Though i had to harden the shocker 2 steps because when i ride with a pillion(68kg-my weight+60kg pillion)on high bumpers the lower stand touches and there are scratches..

RELIABILITY- Yamaha Fazer though it has a fiber body but compared to fibers used in any other bikes the quality of fiber is very good.. The build quality is really good. There is no noise from any part of the bike in bad roads.every part of the bike is bolted nicely....

FUEL CONSUMPTION- This is a really important point. I have read in many reviews that some get 35-40 some get 45-50.. I did my runin perfectly.. My baby returns me a mileage of 56kmpl on highways and 48-50 in city/my village). Though it depend on the way u ride ur bike... I never rev high.and on a constant spped of 60-65 on highways i get 56kmph. And believe me i am not joking at all.

Till now i have faced only one problem i.e during long rides my engine used to get heated up. But after upgrading to semi synthetic this problem is gone.

Fairing is wind tunnel tested and is great.. no wind pushing at high speeds encountered. I have myself driven it past trucks at 85k/h and didnt feel any sideways push.
Suspensions are great - you will glide over bumpy roads
You can increase the mileage by 3-4 km/l if you fill air around 40 in the rear (will reduce the grip though)
As mentioned everywhere, the rear seat is a little small
Gear shifting is minimal.. you can ride from 25k/hr to 120k/h in the 5th gear itself (will lose mileage in both the conditions)

The sparkplug comes with YRCS (Yamaha ram air coolig system) that sends coolig air to the sparkplug area to maintain good performance at higher speeds also.
The tank which is visible to the world is actually a fiber dummy which is changeable the actual tank is below it and accommodates some 12 l of petrol.

I hope this experience with my FAZER comes in handy for all those who are opting to buy it....
And thank you for allowing me to post my very own experience about my baby over in this esteemed forum.....

Thanks kinshuk for your reply

Don't understand your line "I don't know how much charity you do..But I am sure u can do more than that" Please explain it further. (I'm Australian so that comment may be a localized comment)

I look forward to hearing your specific replies
If possible back them with real life situations.

Quote 1-
"1923: Ernest Sweetland invents the Purolator filter and forms Purolator, Inc."
Quote 2-
"The original Purolator filter, invented in 1923, was the first replaceable oil filter for automotive motors."

Who needs to do some more research is you.
Purolator Products Company Company Profile, Information, Business Description, History, Background Information on Purolator Products Company



Yes, As per me every other company is Second to Purolaror(if not second best).

Costly is not always better. Would have loved to see a Mobil 1 or a K&N invent that, but Alas, they were busy marketing. I can put down ten more names in the list you started..

Would request you to stop suggesting four oil and four oil filter changes in the first 1000 kms to the masses.. Lets keep out of the world suggestions to ourselves.

In the last I said you can do more charity than that. It was a suggestion to you.. there are many many hungary people out there.. If you reduced the oil change and filter change you did.. May be some of them would get a meal as a gift from you.. Your engine is already passed the new stage.. But looking at your enthusiasm for motorcycling, it seems you have many new engines to breakin.. Hope the extra cash gets to the place where it is required.

By Yamaha guys, I mean Engineers at Yamaha.. It appears you need some common sense. They ask you to replace oil filter at 1000 km and then 10,000 kms.. After some calculations like this much metal shed in these many kilometers.. This is the surface area of the filter.. Its capable to trap all the metal shed in 1000 kms..

I am not comparing apples and basketballs here.. Car engine is three times bigger than a bike engine.
Car engine has atleast three times more oil than bike engine oil.
Car oil filters are three times larger than bike oil filters..
I am comparing apples with apples.
A table tennis ball : table tennis table is more or less equal to a football : football field.

Dear Mik: you don't need to reply in red/ bold to fellow forumnite Muztarik. Looks pretty agresive to me, while I know you are not an agressive person (pretty laid back, actually! )

Dear Muztarik: you definitely have to temper your tone in this conversation. I have already caught you on this very forum for inaccuracies - something you took pretty badly - but so be it. So, your "I want this discussion etc..." quasi order to other forumnites is not only not welcome since you do not have any prerogatives here, but your "desire" to have it ended would be prejudicial to others who want to learn.

So: get to the facts!

One: Mik has clearly indicated that his running-in method was the "hard one", even rougher than the famous (although debatable IMHO) "Motoman" recommendation. How will that translate in terms of oil/ filter changes? A lot!
You basically have to consider that the amount of metal worn out of not yet matched surfaces (which is what running-in is for) is done over a much shorter period/ lower number of miles. The most elementary logic is then to change oil and filter after a shorter period. Just as simple as that!

Two: I am not going to engage into a discussion about how worth it is to follow this "Motoman" method compared to the more traditional one (and also recommended by Yamaha), but just want to say that such method, which has been known for a long time and is not only the exclusivity of some guy with a flashy website, is only for people with knowledge in engines, on hands experience, and extreme care and attention to their engine behavior during this crucial period. This is what is done on all race engines, cars, bikes or boats, which do not have the time for 1,000 km. (not the "lifetime"!), but for which must be mentioned that they are built to much smaller tolerances than production ones, though. What must be retained, however, and applied, is that you do need to open WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at times when doing your runnig in no matter how gently you may be besides that, and to go close to max rpm during short bursts is very good too.

Three: Will one opt for "gentle" running in - which all recommend since it is safer for the non-experienced riders - it is still a good thing to have a first oil + filter change after just a few kilometers (about twenty. Yes: 20!) on a brand new bike, and even more on a reconditioned one. Difficult for makers to admit that no matter how clean their assembly line is (and quality control in Yamaha India appears quite....loose! - maybe different in pharma labs...), there is still a possibility for some dust or machining debris to have got into the engine. And this is even more probable on a reconditioned engine that might have been left open in some workshop along the street!!! So: why argue and save a few rupees (or whatever currency) that you will probably spend many times in the future???.
After that, one can wait till he has clicked some 1,000 kms., sure. I am more inclined to shortening that time, but definitely in being careful not to go over it, just for security. There again: what is the expense? Referring again to Joel Joseph, a person whose pedigree makes his opinion hardly debatable: 500km. is the right timing.

Having said that: Mik's method definitely asks for drastically shortening the time between oil/ filter changes. He also has the right to be on the safe side, and to recommend it to who will opt for this running-in method.

For those who want to treat their engine carefully, and not run the risks associated to fast running in method, a first oil change after a few km., specially if the engine has been reconditioned (Yamaha only speaks for brand new ones) is just opting for safety. Change the filter at the same time since it may have been already badly clogged-up. Then redo that after some 500km. By that time, you will still have to be careful, but will also start enjoying you bike! Mind also that, on a reconditioned engine, the gearbox (for which running in is essential) will have already been done. Then, just wait another 1,000 to 2,000 (depending much on where you have been riding: street accounts for more km. than a gentle country road ride!) before you do it again, no problem.

A last note:
Mik is an experienced engineer, responsible for enormously costly equipment in the oil industry, and has done a lot of car engine tuning, turbos installation etc.
Sorry to have to talk about myself,, but I am a nearly seventy y.o. Naval Architect, with over forty years of engine room design and work on passenger vessels and most sophisticated yachts. Does not mean my word is God's one, but that "I have heard about the stuff".

Edited to add: Muztarik: I do not see where there is "repeated questions on Indian standards" in Mik's post??? (Might have been moderated/ adited already???), but what is definitely OT are your comments on the billions of dollars "donated" (donated?: are you that innocent?) to save EU from collapsing. We are talking bikes here, not politics about which your "donation" affirmation shows that you know little.
Yamaha India shows undeniable lack on quality control. Do you want photos? That is not an allegation against India in it's whole. Period.

I know its OT but
Respect....
Engine oil change, filter change and the break in method are personal choices IMHO. The person who owns the bike is going to ride it and also spend on it. I wouldn't like anyone question or laugh at how much I am spending on doing what..

You do whatever you want in your garage.. but when you give recommendations on what you did, to others, people will question it.

Either dont give recommendations and continue what you were doing.
If one gives recommendations; participate in a debate on what you did. May be someone will be benefited, may be you yourself will be benefited if you did something wrong.

I misunderstood the last post from Mad Mik and deleted my unhealthy response.. A healthy debate is always beneficial to everybody.

Ownership experience Approved and Merged

I guess we will have to agree to disagree.

I have my valid reasons based on experience, usually from breaking/blowing up engines, gearboxes, turbos, headgaskets, throwing conrods out the side of blocks, spun bearings, big metalic "mystery" chunks of steel in my sump to name a few.

Yes I am hard on my equipment. Most likely more harder than 99% of the people out there.
I'm never one to "baby" my toys. If it breaks then I simply look at making the failed item stronger, look further down the line and see what is the next weakest link and make it stronger.

Yes this costs $, I've paid USD$1600 on 6 pistons before, I've paid $5000 in machining to a engine block, rods, crank to get it back to 0 on the manufacturers specs. $500 alone to get 2 main caps tunnel honed 2 thou of a inch so they match up with the other caps.
Why would one want to do that? You may ask?

Long story short. If my engine is working, its not going to be at the lower rpm range, Its in the power range, Mid to upper rpm range. You have seen my bike clips on youtube (until they got removed off this forum) and note where my engine rpm's are. They are 5k+. I cruise with the engine sitting on 5k or 6k.
Below 5k my engine is too lazy.
So given my high rpm (should it happen) if things go wrong/break then they do so quite spectacularly.

My last car engine (toyota supra 3L Inline 6 cyl single turbo)
The money I paid for 6 top quality pistons (JE forged pistons 40thou/1mm oversize with gas nitrided top rings. $1600 pistons + $300 rings) was $1900, Argo conrods ($2500 for 6) crack tested/magnafluxed balanced steel crank with counter sunk oil journals and blueprinted main caps (remember the $500 tunnel hone) the $1000 spent on a Cometic metal layered 2mm headgasket, ARP rod, head bolts and main stud set will put my mind to ease, Knowing that they won't break. I'm sure there will be very few people who are willing to spend $10,000 into a engine, yet can give people advice on how to build one. Not saying my bike engine has had $10,000 spent on it but If I tell you the exact cost you will have been able to buy another 1 or 2 FZ's.

What pains me is to hear about bad advise, Wrong advise by those who certainly have ZERO idea what is required to maintain a piece of equipment.
Like I said before, My toys are not to be put on display, They are not the prettiest looking machines but they go like hell!

I guess we can agree to this recommendation.
If you ride it like it was stolen (meaning you ride/drive it very hard/rough) then frequent maintenance is required.
If you ride it like it is a bull in a china shop (meaning very carefully and slowly) then you will still need maintenance but not as frequent.

How its interpreted is upto you. I will keep doing my frequent oil and filter changes thankyou...On all 3 of my bikes too.

Muztariq, I love your comment about common sense. I work with a lot of Indians on the oilrigs, Mudloggers, MWD, Data engineers to name a few, These guys have university degrees, far too overeducated for their own means yet are seriously lacking in common sense. The questions they ask simply proves they have no idea what they are talking about, yet believing that by asking these questions they are looking like they are very smart.
There is also the topic of the Indian caste system, I've seen it being played out on rigs. I can go on about the issue however its not healthy for the forum and is certainly not something that should be aired in public in a public forum.