Butter smooth shift change is the result of change of oil filter. I think you can manage with the gear shift(assuming it's not that hard), it's common for all fz's. If it's really hard then i think you need to change the spring(cost Rs10/-) , thats how it worked out for me.

Since the bikes engine is relatively new and the KMS are also less there are chances that putting an FS oil will cause the gears to slip and might damage them. FS oils have better friction busting characteristics than mineral oils. Also, the Service Guy at the Yamaha Centre told me not to use FS oil now the reason he said that "apka bike abhi naya hain, thoda engine poorana hone do verna gears kharab honge"

Thanks for the reply brother. The thing is that the gear shift is butter smooth and suddenly it becomes hard

As mentioned by you regarding the springs, will take it to the SVC to see what the matter is.

Went for motul 5100 15w50 SS and "ester" written on it costed inr 480 for 1L. Motul 300v was too costly 985rs 1L so i'll go for it later..

Hi,

1) Motul 300V 4T Factory Line Single ester 15W 50(SS Oil): Costs Rs. 450/- (Mumbai)
2) Motul 300V 4T Factory Line Double ester 15W 50(FS Oil):Costs Rs. 860/-(Mumbai)
3) Motul 3000 4T Plus Mineral oil 20W 40: Costs Rs. 274/280/- (Mumbai)

Rates may be different in other states/cities. Unless Motul has increased the rates recently then these are the actual costs that i had checked out when i purchased mine 2/3 months back.


Cheers,

Personally, I consider this oil to be one of best oil that money can buy. We are lucky to have it available over here. The only other oil that I would equate to this oil is Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. It expensive because it is not locally refined or blended. It is refined and blended in France.

P.S. The listed price is now 985/- per liter.

Hi, where can I get that , I am from Howrah , will try it next time because yesterday I changed my oil to SS oil available at Yamaha Factory Shop. Also I want to that is the Yamalube 15w50 SS good for FZ & worth its price i.e, Rs. 470. My bike is 4570 kms old now.

Thanks a lot for the help regarding the engine oil info...so I'm gonna stick to factory oil for the time being and munch up some kms.
Any idea about the rusted fuel knob screw I had mentioned about? Need to change it?

Just curious, whats the reserve capacity on the new fz16, post 2011?

My manual says 1.4, but friends with the older fz claims 1.2?

erm... wd-40 to remove the rust from the screw that should help..


Cheers

Hi I got the oil from wellington.I did 10111km on the 20w40 mineral oil then switched to 15w50 SS. Going to SS or FS before 5k km didn't seemed to be a gud idea for me but that was me . For further info on where to get oil PM me.

XBHP GIR Ride

Hi All,

sorry for the OT.. but this message is specially for Mumbai and Pune Based riders. Tom (18th March, 2012) the GIR team from XBHP is riding from Mumbai to Pune. Those from Mumbai, who are interested to join the gang and make a short trip to Lonavla, Big Wheels Cafe, may join us at McDonald's in Kalamboli (Navi Mumbai) at 7:30 am sharp. It is on the left hand side of the Mumbai-Pune Express Highway's starting point.

All those who are interested are requested to bring proper riding gears, helmet ofcourse. If you don't have a riding jacket then atleast bring jeans jacket which will give you some protection in case of any mishaps. IF you have riding gloves then even better.


For more information, please visit this thread: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/grand-in...18-2012-a.html

Map for the meeting point for the Mumbai Riders: kalamboli maharashtra - Google Maps


Cheers,

^^^ will definitely be there....

Not true. Pitting is generally caused when cracks are developed on or below the tooth surface. Pits are resulted by surface cracks caused by metal to metal contact of defects due to low film thickness (lubricant film). Even good film thickness may experience pitting due to subsurface cracks.
In fact during run in initial pitting occurs where oversize peaks on the surface get dislodged and small pits are formed. Later on, the load gets distributed over a larger surface area and the stress comes down which may stop the progress of pitting.
It is correct that Yamaha does not recommend using FS oil even factory shop told me the same. May be the mechanic thought you are going to use thin oil. Also during run in avoid to use SS or FS because during the initial run the wear is high & the clearances get develop later on gradually. The use of FS or SS oils hinders the running-in process due to their superior lubricating properties.

there is a big misconception about using fs and ss oils in new bikes.. And there are a lot of reasons given for that by many ppl. The oil is thin is the most common.
In wet clutch bikes the oil need to have an optimum viscosity for the bike to give performance as well as control.. As you go down from 20w to 10w to 5w to 0w oils this viscosity keeps on decreasing and oil remains less viscous even at - 30 deg celcius. How this is done ? Use of synthetics come into play here.. These oils have very linear structure and very defined specifications are present. Whereas in mineral oils there is absence of this linearity which makes the oil very viscous at temperatures as low as -10 deg celcius. to further reduce its viscosity synthetics are added to mineral oil. How much are added depends upon what grade of oil you want to make.
In nearly all the bike oils you see in the market, you will observe none is available below 10wXX grade. Wheres in car oils 0w or 5w specs are easily available.

We talk of Motul and the like but let me assure you that these oils cant contain more than 50 percent esters even when they say double esters etc. The reason is the moment they use esters the oil starts getting thin and thinner. If you use 100 percent ester the oil will qualify 0w spec. But this oil will not qualify JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 spec. Though JASO MB (for dry clutch bikes) can be qualified. Just search and have a look at JASO qualified oils and only a few will have 5w ratings that too are the oils which are either used in snowmobiles, STVs, ATVs etc. Or they are racing oils which doesnot last more than 500 kms.
OK enuf of background, now coming to the point straight away. Bike oils which are JASO MA, MA1, MA2 qualified does not contain/negligibly contains any friction modifiers like molybdenum. There is no reason for it to interfere in the breakin procedure of a bike. As a precaution you can extend using mineral oils until the second service of the vehicle(3000km- for the fz), but delaying use of synthetics any further is of no use at all.. And one should ask why shouldnt I? Whats the problem in using synthetics from 1000 kms? But always remember whatever synthetic you use it should be JASO qualified.
I started using ss oils from the day I clicked 1000 kms. My bike was very rough ( just like devil's friend - same problems) on putting a fresh oil the problem used to go but again haunted me.. It continued till 3000 kms even on ss oils.. Then I started using Shell advance ultra FS (extremly hydrocracked mineral oil).. The problems never resurfaced. 4000 kms on it.. 4 months.. Not a single drop loss ( tells me my engine is quite nicely settled) will advice all new owners to shift to ax7 shell ss oil from 1000 kms and upgrade to any fully synthetic of their choice when they are confident to go for it.. Shell and castrol uses hydrocracked mineral oil and legally use the word 100 percent synthetic, so even those ppl who are scared of the word ester, PAO, double ester and the like can use them with confidence.
And guys please dont come after me for this.. Just google and see 'when to use synthetics in motorbikes' not everyone can be wrong you see. After all synthetics in bikes are not pure synthetics.
Dont cry after using mineral for 7 - 8000 kms that your synthetic vapourises and you are seeing dips in oil content. You rubbed off your engine for 10% of its life with mineral, it has got rubbed off to a level where only mineral oil thickness can prevent oil burns.. The moment you pour in a good thin weight synthetic it will start leaking into the combustion chamber then you will use higher weight synthetic.. It will actually contain even less amount of ester. 10w will have more ester content than 15w. Oil consumption will decrease :-)
Use JASO MA2 synthetics as JASO MA1 is having lesser friction.DOnt go for API ratings for selecting bike oils they are decreasinh zddp content like hell and this is a vital ingredient for our bike oils. JASO has a limit for atleast xyz percent ( dont remember exactly) of phosphorus to be present in oils. As car oils can use friction reducers this lower, actually half of zddp content in api rating after api sg (now obsolete for cars) is very detrimental for bikes.. Even cars :-) see the link.

ZDDP Oil Issues
Quote 1: Then the bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines.

Quote 2: For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to “Stand” the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need for ZDDP in diesel engines.

Unquote : And API is indiscriminatly reducing this vital excipient of our engine oils just because modern catalytic convertors cant accomodate a higher content... Why wont they? Afterall they are mainly made for car oil regularions. For us bikers JASO is the God sent angel! They are also putting in a gear pitting test in there specs so that indiscriminate thinning of oils viz a viz 0w 5w etc should be controlled, as these oils will not qualify these tests.

Happy reading.

Please ignore any typing errors.. It was written from a small mobile screen.