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It is normal bro. The idling is going higher because your engine has reached the optimum working temperature.Originally posted by muztariq View Post
Cheers,A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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Thanks Shv,Originally posted by shv18 View PostIt is normal bro. The idling is going higher because your engine has reached the optimum working temperature.
Cheers,
Idle rpms should be set at hot engine. Will it cost me some smoothness in cold engine if I reset it when its hot, back to 1300. Will cold engine rpm get low to 1000 or so then?
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Hi Danny,Originally posted by danny king View PostHi guys,
I installed a 180cc big bore kit from Joel.
Had it installed at the Yamaha svc in TVM. It took them 5 days to install. Had to switch to 115 main jet to fuel the larger cc engine. I did not push them because I wanted the job to be done with special attention.
The engine is still within the 2K run in and I am keeping the rpm below 4.5K.
There is a knocking upon accelerating from a stand still or when going up a slope. However, now 300+ kms with the kit, the knocking has come down.
There is a noticeable increase in torque and pick up. I have not yet tested the top end speed because of the run in period. I am unsure of the mileage at this point. But I have observed that it drinks a lot of fuel during the city runs. Mileage is not a major issue for me as I usually use the bike for my weekend trips only. Hope all will fall into place upon completing the run in.
My next step is to fix the Cosworth air induction kit I had bought some time back. But this needs a bigger carb. The stock carb will not suffice.
I am now in search of a P180 29mm carb. And the search is not successful.
I have asked Joel to source a bigger carb. Awaiting his response.
Hope to get response from everyone and especially from guys who have installed 180cc kits.
I too had similar knocking problems with the 180CC kit with stock carb. The knocking was apparent even after using a 125 oversized jet.
Had to finally send my bike to bangalore to get it properly tuned by Joel himself.
If i recall correctly, the problem is 2 fold:
1. Yamaha Service guys, applied an extra layer of sealant over the bore gaskets which could have resulted in the above issue. This was reported by Joel when he opened the engine.
2. The stock head gasket was not bored out by the Yamaha SVC guys.
It is really hard to find people who know their stuff. The Yamaha SVC guys are clueless about installing performance parts. Better not approach them.
Thanks !-AK
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please reply guysOriginally posted by Abhisek View PostGuys I serviced my bike on 15th march when I saw that the battery in my bike is of AMCO company. I had always heard that the stock battery is of MINDA. I service my bike at YFS Kestopur, Baguiati in Kolkata.
Also I want to know how the adjustment of the drive chain should be, I mean that should it be too tight without any slackness as done by the SC or should it be a little loose to make it move somewhat freely.
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Anyone?Originally posted by rkakkar View Postwhenever I try to upshift before 4.5K rpm i find it to be very rough .. however things get smooth at 5K and above. Its been only 1K kms since my last oil change with a total running in 17K kms. I'm on SS. Is this normal or an issue with my clutch plate/setting?
Always assume the other guy will mess up - Ride Defensively!
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Thanks for the response....Originally posted by shv18 View Posti would highly recommend please get the mods done only from Joel. He is the best person to suggest you to take the necessary steps for the same. Please don't experiment with getting parts from somewhere else. Not because of the fact that he will make more money out of you but because he doesnot guarantee that his kits will work efficiently with other performance kits from other suppliers. You will most likely need 33/34mm CV carb Mikuni to get better response.
I remember speaking to RanjithMN on his experience, post headwork on his bike.. the mileage is not going below the range of 43-47kmpl on his souped up ride.
The knocking issue is most likely because of inefficient fuel supply to the chamber. I guess Abhimanyu31 is the best person to give us gyan of the century on this one
Cheers,
All parts for the kit were sourced from Joel himself except the gaskets. I decided to install it here as taking the bike to Bangalore was almost impossible. And the floor manager at the svc centre where I had the kit installed had previously installed a kit on an R15. So he knew the stuff.
The P180 29mm carb was recommended by Joel.
I had bought the Cosworth induction kit long before I even thought of installing a BB kit.
Yes, the knocking is mostly because of the insufficient/inefficient fuel supply. And I stopped searching for a bigger carb locally; contacted Joel for the same. I am yet to receive a response from him.Your bike is a part of you....
Since Nov 2012: Pulsar 200NS
Jan 2009 to Nov 2012: Yamaha FZ18
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Shv18; why are you pulling a old war horse's leg...Originally posted by shv18 View Post
The knocking issue is most likely because of inefficient fuel supply to the chamber. I guess Abhimanyu31 is the best person to give us gyan of the century on this one
Cheers,
Danny king; I have replied to your PM.Originally posted by danny king View PostThe P180 29mm carb was recommended by Joel.
I had bought the Cosworth induction kit long before I even thought of installing a BB kit.
Yes, the knocking is mostly because of the insufficient/inefficient fuel supply. And I stopped searching for a bigger carb locally; contacted Joel for the same. I am yet to receive a response from him.
Last edited by abhimanyu31; 03-24-2012, 12:33 PM.Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
Multum in Parvo - Much in Little
"Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html
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Originally posted by muztariq View PostThanks Shv,
Idle rpms should be set at hot engine. Will it cost me some smoothness in cold engine if I reset it when its hot, back to 1300. Will cold engine rpm get low to 1000 or so then?
I feel the current idling range on your bike is normal. Don't reduce it otherwise you will having stalling problems when engine is cold...
CheersA quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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Recently while inspecting my friend's Fazers sparkplug there was some oil residue, the bike is only 10~15K old, is this usual in all FZ16 series bikes, or is this cause the piston rings are wearing out???Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Hey guys spent another 210 bucks for a new starter relay ... Regarding the tyre , now nobody wants to go below the 3200 INR mark ... I couldn't afford it , so fixed up 4 punctures for 280 INR ...
Oh and also when checked the battery was dry ... No distilled water in it at all ... the tyre and a battery seem to be on my upcoming damages list 
This months maintenance now officially hit 4K
People ask me , why are you cribbing about the BHP ? to them I say "MORE is never ENOUGH" xbhp.com
FZ16 headlight assembly with projector and angel eye for sale .
My first ever trip log ... http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...gh-clouds.html
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I am sorry, shv18, but 33/34 mm. carbs. would be FAR too big for a 180cc. Even for my 200cc. (FZ 20!), a 29 CV Mikuni, or 28mm. "flat slide" are the correct dimensions, as also confirmed by other posters here-above.Originally posted by shv18 View Post.... You will most likely need 33/34mm CV carb Mikuni to get better response....
About having parts and works done by Joel Joseph and none else unless you find a real equivalent: I must say that this is a wise advice! An other forumnite fo bxhp, from Vietnam like me, has also bought parts form Indonesia: not only did we wait three months (YES: three months!!!....when I think I was complaining about Joel's slowliness....
) to finally have (most of: not all) our parts delivered (damaged!), but they were far from the "plug-and-play" this reseller advertises. So the advice is: go to a professional, proven, experimented engineer and bike tuner, and forget about those "glorified mechanics (Joel's words!) who just sell you parts of various origins, not tested, nor properly engineered, and who does not do the installation either.
When I do something stupid, my consolation is to know that I'll do the worse one only once!
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There you go.. corrected by a senior riderOriginally posted by Lucky Luke View PostI am sorry, shv18, but 33/34 mm. carbs. would be FAR too big for a 180cc. Even for my 200cc. (FZ 20!), a 29 CV Mikuni, or 28mm. "flat slide" are the correct dimensions, as also confirmed by other posters here-above.
About having parts and works done by Joel Joseph and none else unless you find a real equivalent: I must say that this is a wise advice! An other forumnite fo bxhp, from Vietnam like me, has also bought parts form Indonesia: not only did we wait three months (YES: three months!!!....when I think I was complaining about Joel's slowliness....
) to finally have (most of: not all) our parts delivered (damaged!), but they were far from the "plug-and-play" this reseller advertises. So the advice is: go to a professional, proven, experimented engineer and bike tuner, and forget about those "glorified mechanics (Joel's words!) who just sell you parts of various origins, not tested, nor properly engineered, and who does not do the installation either.
this is what i like about this thread!!
On Joel's front; i have personally met him so i can vouch for the fact that Joel knows his sh*t!! He is at the moment a one man show which is what delaying the whole process but expect the deliveries to happen much faster as the DOKTOR is planning on something big
OT: a few days back my Friend's Joelled, R170 destroyed a KTM Duke 200 by almost 4 bikes length (about say 2- 3 seconds!!) while we were busy setting the correct map tuning for the bike and were testing it out on the road...
more info can be found on Abhimanyu31's thread R16.
Cheers,Last edited by shv18; 03-25-2012, 12:27 PM.A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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have not seen anyone here doing a clutch plate change at that interval.. Try fs oil from motul.. It will be rectified for sure. But for how long is a concern.. If it comes back soon.. Retain your fs and go for clutch plate change.. There are many reasons for roughness you should also check chain, sparkplug, airfilter etc. Refer to post 13592 here, by abhimanyu31 regarding the same.Originally posted by rkakkar View PostAnyone?
If you want to go for ss, shell ax7 is quite good. Just today bought a bottle of ax7 as a spare, its called shell advance ax7 and comes at Rs 337, 10w40, blue bottle. Exact price listed and sold at shell gas stations.Originally posted by SpeedyKol View PostWhat is the exact oil name? I mean, like 20w50 oil, what is the grade of it? Where would I get it in Kolkata? Any good SS in Castrol range? And price of Shell ax7 and others plz.
For ss from motul get the oil from svc and ask them for yamalube 15w50 grade ss which is recommended for r15, comes in black bottle, was 450 bucks sometime back.
Castrol power 1 semisynthetic 15w40 is worth trying too if you have lots of money.. Improves power (accln) but darkens too much after 500 km of usage.. After 1000 kms engine roughness comes back, gear changing roughness also ( if it was a problem before you used the oil).Last edited by muztariq; 03-25-2012, 11:32 PM.
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