you can check here Gearing Commander , But sprocketing isn't gonna increase power , it just mods the existing powerband .

Yes. By doing it, the speed increases by about 30% but the torque decreases in the same ratio. That means your bike will not move from stationary position in any gear including first.
It is impossible to modify the final gear ratio of FZ to get 130 kmh at 7500 RPM. Any modification beyond 5-6% is not advisable.
Any of the bikes up to 250 cc and Bullets do not reach that speed at that RPM. To get that speed at 7500 or lesser RPM, consider Ninja 650R or Hyosung GT650R.

FZ Handlebar

Hi guys,

The FZ handlebar is wide and brilliant for handling....

But the issue is that i need to bend a little forward coz of my short stature...

So what i wanna know is what other bike handles come close enough to be
fitted on to the FZ so that i dont need to lean over much....

Heard that the Fazer's handle is a little bent inwards....
Is that significant enough to make a difference over our FZ handlebar??

Has anybody changed theirs....Or any other ideas are welcome.


cheers...

I rotated my bar towards me, rotated the brake and clutch though the clutch? (or brake I cant remember) has a locating lug on the switch assembly that matches with the hole in the handlebar. You may need to file off the pin or drill another hole to accept it, or just leave your levers where they are.

You can get aftermarket bars, Rizoma make some nice ones in different colors too.

Perhaps you should look at Risers too? They are like spacers that will lift your bars up off the existing triple tree by an inch or so.

Ape hangers will be nice with streamers off the ends

I think me too need to rotate the handlebar....

Looking at some aftermartkets but didnt like the quality....

Risers wont work...we need to change the triple tree itself of FZ....

And ya, the ape hangers crossed my mind once...

Come-on guys, no one with other brilliant ideas

cheers...

i Have a Yamaha Fazer 2011 153cc. today it went upto 8000rpm-117kmph... Couldnt cross 8000rpm on full throtle.... Can anyone please tel...whats the reason.. previously have reved it till 9500 126kmph.... Have changed sprocket (front) from 14t stock to 15 T... What might be the reason. please help. Bike is 9.5 months old and 12000kms old.. Complete stock ...just changed 14t to 15t..thats it.. spark plug clean,airfilter clean, bike not running lean or rich.. its perfect... (spark plug colour chocolaty brown). Chain cleaned and lubed... Ducked to achive 117 @ 8000... please help

find a longer hill bro

the other day the direction of wind could be helping you.. Or the road may be going downhill slightly.

Air lock

Hi frnds,

Can anyone please help me how to find out airlock in front brake line and how to remove it?

Today a mechanic removed the bolt connecting line and calliper instead of opening the bleeding nut. It took more time to build up the pressure after tightening both bolts. Also I saw bubbles in main cylinder while pressing the brake lever.

Thanks in advance

Ha ha ha definitely will find a 60 degrees one... and will ride up the hill on 6th gear

Nothing like that bro.. road was level and almost no wind.. its the same place...where i did the previous time.. a barren airstrip...

Chain Lube

Guys, The bike is 10K old and same is with the chainset.
Its rainy season here.
Had been following chain lubrication after every water wash. i.e 250-300 km or 15 days. From some 15 days was getting a noise from the rear sprocket. Took it to a mechanic who showed a link that was disoriented and looking more like a triangle. The solution was given as chain replacement!
Was riding the bike with the noise. After reading some posts on WD40 thought of trying it. But couldn't find it.
Cleaned the chain with EP 140 gear oil using a brush and wiping(the brush repeatedly) with a cloth. Again lubed the chain with the same oil. Went for a 5 km ride. There was no improvement in the chain noise. But, the bike was very smooth.
Came back disappointed.
Again re-applied the oil until it started dripping and left for the day.
At night(after 12 hrs) took it out for a ride. And man! What a pleasant surprise. The sprocket noise was gone (was coming up an incline though), the ride was super smooth. Inviting me to ride more (a 5km ride with my kid got transformed into 20 km ride).
Learning -
1) In rainy season, 250-300 km chain lube may be insufficient.
2) The chain is very prone to link distortion
3) EP 140 can be used to solve the sprocket noise problem.
4) Atleast 12 hr residence time may be required after re application for the chain to imbibe lube.

You need to bleed your brakes.
This is a very dangerous situation. You may not be able to stop in time if you squeezed the brakes.

You will need 2 people or possibly yourself if you know what to do.

Basically you need to pump the brake lever and hold the brakes on.
crack the bleed nipple until the lever sinks towards the handlebar then close the nipple before you let go of the brake lever.
repeat until only liquid comes out the nipple.
Top up reservoir as needed.

Look for a new mechanic....This is dangerous what he did and has the potential to cost lives.

Air lock in brake line

Thanks Mik for your reply

Since I'm a noob first of all I dunno whether air lock exists or not. I can't figure out but the probability is very high since the mechanic opened the other nut as well as he pumped the lever while bleed nut is opened (of course I knew the proper procedure but all this happened when I was not in place. I could have done the bleeding myself) and when I returned I saw all these and bubbles coming out in master cylinder while pumping.

Is it a sign that air lock exists?

Will normal bleeding procedure (as explained in previous post) help to remove air lock??

Thanks in advance