1. Dome bit difficult to manage in the beginning, till it gets used to.
2. Did 500+ km a day without much bum pain.
3. Any bike need regular/routine service. It's reliable, won't need frequent replacements. But maintenance will definitely cost more than "Passion Pro."
5. Electricals don't come under warranty except battery. Wire it yourself, switch in middle is jugaad method. 10-15 min job. or even you can make a plug and play harness yourself without much hassle.
6. Absolutely not.
7. You can do yourself. If you change both beam to 60/55 and use both beams at same time, battery will be done in no time.

Here saddle sore means this SaddleSore 1000/Bun Burner 1500 Rules


There are lots of discussions about saddlesore on this forum and as you will go through them you will understand it better. Basically ,it is covering 1000 miles under 24 hours.

Broad tyres just means more friction but that doesn't mean that disc are not necessary just because the tyre is broad.

The heavier the tyre, the more stronger the brakes should be to bring it to hault. Actually you need a disc much dearly on the rear. But as with 90% cars in India(or may be the world if I am not wrong), rear tyres lacks discs!!

I have a fazer and i have done 456 kms at a stretch and 680kms in a day.. only problem..the butt gets heated up a lot...

True! Even though one's butt get roasted, back pain is absolutely not there in Fazer. I have experienced back pain with CBZ/Pulsar but not with Fazer.

Guys, little advice needed. Just had a night ride in the city outskirts. And found out that Fazer's head lamp is awfully powerless. Had a very difficult time riding through the dark roads. Is there anyway to increase the head lamp brightness-like enhancing battery power or changing battery/headlamp(with higher wattage) or both.

Currently, my headlamp set up is that one light goes on for dipper and both the lights goes on for long beam.

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kmk

I quite agree that Yamaha has done a very god job on the Fazer as far as riding position is concerned. I am an old fellow (nearing 70), and find my bike remarkably well conceived on that respect.

I used to see better with my single headlight Hyosung than with the twin headlight Fazer. The export model we have here systematically come with both headlights working simultaneously, an I never had a problem of battery being drained by alternator unable to cope with the demand.

All that has completely changed after fitting two HID lights: very wide white light in low beam, and superb general lighting in high beam. Does not come cheap, though: Between the equipment, including lovely angel eyes, and the works (that were awfully badly done: a mess of loose wires!!!), it did cost me 5 million Vietnam Dong= over 200 US Dollars! I have the deep feeling that I have been ripped off, but anyway got the confirmation that each light, direct from the shop and non including the angel eyes, costs over 1 million VND each= near 50 US Dollars!
The price of safety? for me: yes, definitely!

Some comments about HID lights though:
- one is that projectors MUST be used, NOT just replacing the bulb. That is what makes is costly.
- Also this has to be treated differently from the halogen and other "normal" lights. Particularly, one cannot flash repeatedly using the "Pass" button, or that will reduce considerably the lifetime of both bulb and ballast. Occasionally: yes, of course! Only if already with low beam can one flash in high beam since this is using the same bulb but with an electromagnetically controlled little shade that hides part of the bulb in low beam.
- third is that I do not know what power (in watts) of bulbs has been used! I very much suspect that it is above the 2 x 35 W of the original setup since after a long night ride (over three hours) the electric starter motor was a little lazy next morning, meaning the battery has been drained by more than what the alternator could provide (135W max.). I definitely need to have more "electricity storage" using a bigger battery, but if the light plus other consumers use more than what the alternator gives, it will just be a matter of time till the battery goes flat after a longer ride! Pretty bad (and eventually damageable) for the ignition CDI, which can also just decide to shut off due to too low voltage...although it could be the HID lights that come off first!

So: be careful on what one does for you when installing HID lights. Not only use projectors and not bare bulbs, not only use a "light temperature" not above 4,500 deg. so that you have a white light, but also do not fit projectors made for cars with big alternators and batteries able to be drained all night long! You may have a little less light with less power consuming bulbs, but you will have it longer!

Side note: just "enhancing the battery power", as you say, will change nothing for the light the bulbs give. The only alternative to HID will be higher wattage bulbs, where it would be advisable to fit a bigger battery as well, just to have light for a longer time as the alternator may be unable to supply enough.

Not entirely wrong but not right either.

If effectively the larger contact area between the bike and the road due to a broader tyre would allow to exert more braking power than on a skinny one, hence allowing reduced braking distance, it does not mean that to get the same braking distance would need more pressure/ power.

When a car or a bike brakes, there is "weight transfer" to the front wheels, and the higher pressure by the tyre down onto the road makes it possible to apply more pressure on the brakes. That is why front brakes are systematically bigger, more powerful and more heat resistant than the rear ones. I do not see, then, what you mean by "you need a disc more dearly on the rear"...??? Is it that you consider that the rear brakes need to be fitted with a disc one more than the front ones??? I hope not!

The main reason why bike manufacturers (but nearly no car anymore - Internationally at least) still fit drum rear brakes is cost! Any medium/ upper segment bike (starting as "low" as a Honda CBR) fits disc rear brakes. The reasons why? Three essentially:

- One is that having a rear drum brake looks obsolete! People want disc, period.
- Second is that disc are not more powerful per se, but far more heat resistant. Where a drum will have expanded by heat up to loosing its braking capability, a disc will continue working normally...up to burning the pads and distorting the disc that is, but it will only happen in racing!
- Third is that - at least that is how I feel it - it is more pleasant and I think secure to have this nice identical feeling with both front and rear brakes when both have discs.

What has to be remembered, anyway, is that, while on a car this is done automatically through load sensors, one use both brakes independently on a motorcycle. On the dry: front and little rear. Under rain: about both the same. On gravels: NO front at all! Failure to do so will result in bumping into the rear of the vehicle in front....or sitting with your a$$ on the road!!!

Hi Raj,
First of all, by checking the condition of the oil filter you won't be able to make out the change interval, and for that you have to open the filter cover, which only requires additional oil to be poured in. If you have just done 5000 kms then as mentioned by Luke, no need to replace the oil filter.
Many people change the oil filter at every oil change, which is purely psychological & sound ridiculous, even if you are using FS (oil change interval ~7000kms), because not only the old oil filter is good to go another 3000kms, but you have to keep on adding 200ml of oil, which is for me a waste.
Adding to what Luke mentioned, check the lighting thread, you will find the answer or else post your query there. HID is one of the solution, but people have got better results also by just replacing the bulbs.

Thank you so much guys for your advice. So I understand the point like this: Fazer's headlights are of 35 W each. Hence, when I use them together, it is 70 W while the battery can deliver only 60 W (12 V, 5 Ah). So the bulbs might not illuminate to an extent they should actually do.

Now bringing alternator into the picture, I don't know how much power it can generate in say around 4500 rpm. Would be great if anyone can mention it. But I hope it can sufficiently deliver what the battery demands.

What I think I can do: Based on these facts, I can now think of going for a 55W normal halogen bulbs instead of 35W stock bulbs and single light set up for both low and high beams. As of now, I am a little hesitant to go for HIDs. My doubt is, if I go for 55W bulb, will I have to change to a high power battery or the existing one is sufficient?

Pls correct in case I have got anything wrong.

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kmk

I would like to know how long can our FZ/Fazer series bikes can go non stop. Please share your experience and also details like average speed maintained,engine oil used etc.

Brother i am using HID's both working upper and lower.. for last 11 months.. no battery problem faced yet.. battery is stock MINDA 12V 5amp

Nonstop 456 kms.. only stops were of natures call.. speed maintained for 150kms @ 95.. another 200kms @70.. average speed maintained 75-80.. engine oil is yamalube 15w50. total travel in a day was around 750 kms-800kms...

Can you pls post a pic or two to illustrate the throw and brightness? Have you done any long rides (more than 200 km) in night with HIDs on? If yes, what's your feedback about battery performance after the ride?

Pls mention your HID bulb rating - 35W or 55W.

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kmk

Yes i have done long rides of around 250km.. you can drive at 4500-5000rpm...@no problem with lights.. horn.indicators..... AS already i have told you ,... no problem with battery yet...till date... still on stock battery...
the picture looks greenish..but its not.... and its 35W..

Looks like the new RC FFE has new db killers as per Joel,having 45mm diameter.

will post pics once i receive it.