After Service Issue

Hello Friends,

I am just having a small doubt. I have done my bike servicing 10 days ago and this time i opt for SS engine oil. The one thing that i have notice after service; Engine started resisting in 3K rpm and asking for gear shift. Before It happens on 4K rpm and i usually shift at 4K rpm. And it look like engine is taking more pressure.

Also engine started making noise also. It this is normal or should i go back to SVC regarding this problem.

Appreciate your help on this.

-Suhail

Hi,

Engine resisting to rev?? no FZ/Fazer refuses to rev till red line. sounds like some mechanical trouble. check if the choke has been left in ON position. If that is ok then get the carburetor checked, cleaned, AFR checked. If you have not changed the air filter as per recommended schedule do it immediately. get the spark plug's condition checked.

how many kms on the ODO? if it is a brand new bike the valve clearance need not be checked.. if quite old then do get it checked and adjusted accordingly.

Which brand of engine oil what was the rating used? i.e. 15W 50/ 20W 40 etc.?? check the oil level using the dipstick.


Cheers,

Wasnt calculating fuel consumed from 6-7 months. But while putting STP fuel treatment had to know exact amount. Hence ran till reserve and filled 10 litres and added the additive.

I found out that the mileage was 35km/l when the next reserve came. (the chain lubrication method followed till then was a small amount of oil used by my local mechanic after water wash)

In the meantime the sproket started making noise and I used EP140 chain lubricant. The bike was very smooth after its application.

Today calculated the mileage again from the last reserve amount.. its 42km/l.

What I can with surity say is that the chain lubrication is very very important for better mileage.

Will recommend two caps of this chain lubricant after every chain cleaning exercise to get the most from your bike.

Attaching EP 140's image. Its a 500 ml bottle, costs 98 INR. And I use two full caps after cleaning the chain.

+ves:
1) Very thick oil, keeps sticking to the chain for longer duration.
2) Doesnt make weird sounds and attract dust like grease etc.
3) Much smoother performance from the bike in comparison to engine oils and other stuff (have even used Motul chain lubricant spray once)

-ves:
1) Has a characteristic smell. Some may find it awkward.

Please excuse for another mileage related post.

I have an awful doubt after reading your post: are you saying that you "have to" shift UP at 3k rpm. (like from 3rd. to fourth) otherwise he engine is "resisting" (???), while that you used to shift gear "UP" at 4k. rpm. all the time and never rev up higher than that...???!?!?

If that is the case, gee: I don't want to see how it must look inside this poor engine of yours! There will be a thick depot of carbon on the valves, the piston, and in the exhaust, and your engine be completely choked and unable to breathe! You may also have lost a lot of compression by the piston rings being full of carbon/ oil gum, and going to a more fluid oil like fully synthetic will make you loose even more compression.

Would be an extreme case of over-pampering your engine....I hope I did misread your post, then!

This engine is designed to "be happy" at it's maximum torque, which is at 6,000rpm.

Would not that be the case, and would your engine be in such a condition as described here above, the only thing you can do to save it's life is REVV UP!!! Vraoum...vraoum.... VRAOOOOOOOOO!!!
Redline it, just make it spit, vomit all this carbon, get healthy again....but it might already be too late! Hope I am wrong!

Luc has nailed it on the head.
You have been under gearing your engine. Causing it more stress than helping it.
I see and hear it on a daily basis. We have taxi drivers who drive 1st gear upto 10kph, change to 2nd @20kph, 3rd @30kph. You can hear the engine rattling. You are doing the same to your bike.
You are putting very heavy stresses on the engine.

Some people need to take a class in engine mechanics and see what damage they actually cause by their actions.

Follow Luc's instructions (after the engine is warmed up of course) and give it an "Italian Tune Up"
The name comes from the result of (Italian) mechanics having to deal with engines that are full of carbon, gummed up and sluggish. (A lot of Ferrari/Lamborghini owners drive very sedately for fear of crashing or damaging their engine)
To free up the engine they had to drive it the way it was designed, High RPM, lots of throttle and frequent gear changes.

Finally, my fazer now became FZ-S.

The fazer's headlight is fine, but the left side panels are broken, the headlight stay bent.

The repairs done were for, fork bend and handlebar bend. the crashguard was totally broken and that saved a lots of other parts from damage. Total cost of converting to fz was 2800/-

Hai Rajveer,

No News from you. Where are you dear? How is your babe? No see long time.

Hey shvv18

Nice to hear that you are getting your babe joelled. If it is very soon I mean before the last week of October then I want to get all the experience from you. Rest all doubts will be in your inbox and please don't feel bad.

Cheers

Good to see xBhp back online!! Greetings everyone!!

Have a query regarding my fazer's ignition cut-off switch.

The clutch lever has a play of a few milimeters right? Before pulling it further actually starts to disengage the clutch.
So even when lever is in the play range the clutch is actually released. So the ignition cut-off should prevent and engine start when the bike is in gear right?

In my case the engine start switch starts the ignition.
Here's what happens.
The bike is in gear. The clutch is completely released (till the lever can go no further outward). I try to start the bike. It doesn't start. Well and good.
Now I pull the clutch slightly still within the clutch-lever play range. I've not actually started to disengage the clutch. I try starting the engine. It tries to start!! Giving me one nasty jerk!
Has anyone else faced this? It appears to me as the clutch switch is faulty. I had asked the SVC guys to tighten it during first service. It worked fine for a few days and now this is happening.

Any suggestions??

Cheers!!

Mine has never worked from new. Never bothered me as I leave my bike in N, check the green N light is lit and start it.
You can adjust freeplay by turning the round knob at the end of the clutch lever.

Fz-x rc

Hi all,

seems Jonahmano is more excited to see me going for the biggie. Anyways, yes its true, after answering countless queries from users all over India and abroad regarding power up kits from RC and its reliability, expectations and complexity or any such thing etc. i felt that i have waited enough to look for that one beautiful morning when i would simply pack my bags and leave for blore and harass Mr. Joseph to perform his dark arts for me on my FZ-X; Extreme version.

My ride turned 2 on Sept 9th 2012, not that i was ever bothered about the stupid Yamaha warranty but just that after 2 years of ownership; i believe me and her, we both needed something extra to spice up our relationship.. i was tired of that feeling of being left behind post 100 kmph on the highway by the likes of pulsars and Hondas.. i decided enough is enough! Spoke to one of the boys from the SVC (I shall not reveal the name and details for obvious reasons.) to carry out the job for me. Plus i have biking guru Abhimanyu31 by my side so absolutely nothing to worry about.

Anyways my list includes:

* 180cc Big Bore kit
* Cylinder head will be sent to Joel, RC Blore for Altered Port Geometry. Based on his decision, i may opt for custom Inlet and exhaust valves. This is done to increase the volumetric efficiency of the engine.
* Mild Lift Camshaft
* 29mm semi flat Racing Carburetor
* Simota Performance Air Filter.
* I already have the FFE. Later, when Joel launches the SS version of the FFE, i shall opt for it.
* 15T front sprocket mod.

This mod will be the most extensively covered thread with pics, tests by G Tech Data Logger Pro and Go-Pro power vidoes (Courtesy Abhimanyu31). I have already requested ace rider JoelKraju to take my place when we are doing the 0-100 kmph test rides as my feather weight will hamper the timings drastically. I donot have an access to a dyno nor the money to do a run on that so Joel haters; don't expect any BHP data on that part. The G Tech Data Logger Pro will give out some readings on the power to the rear wheel received from the engine in bhp figure though.

Now the waiting begins...

Cheers,

Got some new backlit emblems on my bike now. Blue side ones are connected to the park lights and indicators, When I hit the turn signals they blink.
Rear is just connected to the park light.

Hi Shv18,
Nice! Just wanted to know, have you received all the parts & where you guys are planning to assemble the new parts?
I would like to have a look & want to fill the modded engine.

Mileage issue

My fz suddenly has dropped in its mileage, previously i used to get 55 kilometers for 1.39 liters of petrol. I have ridden 1500 kilometers in my bike and i am done with my second service. I skidded and dropped my bike 2 days after the service since then i am facing this issue mileage issue right now my bike only delivers 40 kilometers for 1.39 liters of petrol. There is a drastic change in the bike's behavior and i never thought that the mileage would drop so much.I don't rev my bike a lot and maintain speeds between 50 kmph - 55 kmph that too not always due to high traffic. What might be the possible reasons for this issue?

hey frnds.
my FZS is 3 months old and second service is due in this week, but my pickup is very poor. earlier it was fine and it was a smooth ride but now i have to shift gears very frequently in low speed. I don't rev it very much. there was a post saying revving will help improve performance. Is it true? or riding between 3k-4k is best?