Hello mate its not the case of being superior... or if anyone feels inferior reading your post then that shouldn't be a problem for others as well. You keep on correcting incorrect informations posted on this forum as this will throw some good light to readers who want to learn.. and prevent incorrect infos from being spread or learnt. And all the members here should too support and learn that posting correct infos should be encouraged rather than arguing on assumptions. No offence to anyone but just want this thread to be peaceful and clean unlike some other threads in this forum. Cheers and happy riding.

It is a direct fit yes, Just the angled rubber that joins the carb to the intake runner/tube needed to have the ID enlarged with a pencil grinder.
33mm Keihin PWK Semi flat slide. It is much larger overall compared to the stock Mikuni.
You have to route your throttle cable carefully so it can still operate without getting stuck open.
The K&N is also larger than the intake OD so it has a alloy spacer ring that sits between the filter and carb.

I can't comment on altitudes as I live in Ho Chi Minh City, Pretty much flat and not too far off sea level. Not many mountains near me. Just flat.

Will try to Duck the next time I go to Durgapur.... If it helps then its not a problem of the bike...!

Ok, now: I shall be rude! Sorry shv18 and other cool guys here!
This is not "simple biking knowledge", as your say, but utter ignorance. You don't know a thing about bikes and engines, period!
Capacity has hardly anything to do with the maximum speed. Power, power losses, weight, aerodynamics, transmission ratios, etc... have. OK: more cc= more power....roughly, but you will see a 100cc. drag bike flirting with 200 kmh, and a 500cc. Royal Enfiled unable to get past 120!
What you call "tolerance at high speed" does not exist, and no knowledgeable person will agree with this "theory" - as a non demonstrated, unfounded theory form a non knowledgeable person theory it is!
The simple fact of increasing the cylinder capacity will increase the power hence the maximum speed attainable, but NOT the ability of the engine and the rest of the bike to sustain that power! At the contrary!

As per my credentials, to start with: I am a (nearly retired) Naval Architect, Marine Engineer, and have designed numerous engine room and installations, being quite "expert" (I am a Maritime expert too, agreed by Bureau Veritas) in engine room installations specially for passenger boats. I have deep knowledge of engine, specially diesels, and have even been able to guide repair of engines by....discussion with the Chief Engineer on the radio! What about yours before questioning mines?

JJ piston is of a quality (forged alloy, high tolerances) that allows it to sustain higher stresses while not imposing to the conrod and crankshaft an excessive weight. Still, higher capacity will impose higher stresses, while the average piston speed - hence inertia - will also increase, but these are perhaps concepts behind your comprehension as shows your complete mix between the lift of the cams and the engine speed! Higher lift means more space for the gases by more opening of the valves and more time for them to enter/ exit the cylinder. Nothing to do with the "tolerating higher rpm": you just confuse everything.

Just repeating myself: a light, well studied and balanced piston and rings, in a metal that has a good stability and mechanical properties, has little reasons by itself to see excessive wear until quite a few tens of thousands of kilometers! Also has the stock piston! If one asks his engine to rev up with a piston from X of from Y does not change the fact that the total number of revolutions will remain the same for the same length of time, that the average piston speed will remain the same at the same revs, and there is NO reason - excepted difference in quality - that will make one fail before the other. In the other hand, if one has a small capacity piston, the stresses will be lower while higher on the bigger one! and do not forget that the rest of the engine and transmission remain the same, whatever is the pressure on the piston, its number of revolutions, is average speed, etc...: more power= more stresses on all that. More stresses = reduced lifetime.

In the other hand: stock piston (and camshaft) = less stresses= lengthened lifetime, all other things being constant, meaning same top or cruising speed: stock engine does NOT have to be pampered and the bike unable to sustain the same speed as a "Joelled" one: at the contrary!

I shall refrain from calling you birds names there!
A very low performance engine like that of a 100cc. Honda Cub, for example is already well loaded when going at 50kmh! Not to mention the load the bike itself may carry: we see some spectacular cases here!

Sure increases the mileage, if that is the only aim! Just as surely increases the carbon depots!

Last: your "comparison" with the (lousy, stupid, incapable...etc...) Chinese or Indonesian with Joel is both stupid, ignorant, disrespecting of these countries, and of a despicable and pretentious nationalism. Do you think (well: I question your ability to think!) that China has NO "race" engineer of the level of Joel?

I respect and like this young entrepreneur who is Joel Joseph, although regretting his quasi absence of commercial sense. This does not mean I put him at the World's pinnacle of engineering!

Hey man: blow your engine (and yourself): I don't give a crap about what is happening to your bike and how long it is going to last. You are free, man, do what you like....but just refrain from scattering false information. Moreover: refrain from practically insulting other nations!

I fully concur with you there, Segat.
However, and as I think - in my western education and culture - I had to reply to the posts the way I did here-above, and call a cat a cat and BS Bull sh*itt, I find inappropriate to keep mouth shut and this thread "peaceful" as all including me would like, but is made impossible by some misguiding persons (and not only the author of the above quoted posts).

Just like I also said: if one is unable to listen and understand: do as he likes, none of my business....as long as he is going to hurt only himself!

Watch out Luc, He mite call for his fellow Indian brothers to gang up on you since you are putting a Indian down.

While "he" can only dream of the mods he wishes to get, We are out there "Living the dream" as we say in Australia, Riding and enjoying our 2 very individual and unique bikes

I understand u mate and the way you speak because I myself have stayed in Sydney for a while and this is the way people speak in western culture. But we people are of a different kind because we give a lot of respect to others and expect as well. But I wouldn't be expecting the same from people not belonging to the same community because I know that the way people speak or act changes with respect to their own culture and how they've been living. Anyways lets not make it long and lets learn about our bikes here. If I ask a question here then I should be ready to hear anything because for me that might be a big issue but for someone, that might not even be an issue. Basically what I want to say is its all about perception. But when its technical and serious knowledge, if I'm wrong then I should accept it rather than arguing over it.
A lot of OT from my side.. Sorry guys and lets carry on with our fzs and fazers. A small query from my side.. Can our fz handle two hids? As lucky luke once mentioned that his battery was a bit low after some continuous hours of night ride.. I want to add fairing to my fzs to make it a fazer and later add two projectors with hids.. Can anyone please tell if its possible? It is possible I guess but how much pain it is to do so? And what would be the cost involved for adding the fairing? And most of all, is it worth the extra cost? I mean aerodynamically and lighting wise? Thanks and cheers.

Guys seeing your rides I can't stop myself from posting this.. I am so f*****g jealous. If only I could get those stuffs here then I would surely have had them but because of the taxes and shipping charges, the cost would be triple of what it might cost there.. And its not worth too because the bike itself costs around 2600 USD here due to high taxes. And for the cost of upgrading the engine I can surely get a CBR 250 or the KTM Duke here. So m just dreaming how it would feel like riding the 200 cc fz..

My FZ was US$4000, my bunch of junk I bought from Automotivespareparts cost US$2k, + 43% import tax + labour for engine, bodykit, tune, 2 additional carbs and K&N airfilters, 1 more CDI and I could have been close to a 2009 R6 ( US$7-9K smuggled with no import duty paid and counterfeit ownership papers) Its just money that I know I'll never get back. I'm fine with that as I enjoy riding it.

Dream? Did your grand-father tell that that I'm gonna just dream about modding the bike? It's better you stop your racist behavior and start behaving wisely. Too much knowledge has puffed you up! Who are you to stop what I'm going to do with my bike?

Hahah, such a cheap statement from a learned person. Another badge on your coat.

*yawn* is that all you got? That race card you keep pulling out is long past its use by date, Time to start looking for a new excuse I think.

Any tips on how I should ride my bike?
Can I take off from the traffic lights in 2nd gear? 100cc = 1st gear, 200cc = 2nd gear etc.
I'm thinking because of the bigger capacity I can remove 1st gear entirely and greatly help offset the extra weight of the factory counterweights on my crankshaft. Why the Yamaha engineers put extra weights in the engine is beyond me, They should have removed them to make it lighter!
Also since I would have removed 1st gear I can also remove 1 steel plate and clutch plate from my clutch that corresponds with the 1st gear, Is this advisable?

Can I use stunt pegs off my BMX bike for my rear sets? I have some really nice ones I'd like to use, They are knurled on the outside for grip and rounded at the ends so they will scrape and spark nicely, rather than dig in. They have much more grip for my shoes than the rubber inserts on the factory items. Note I didn't say what color the rubber inserts are for fear of you calling me racist and quite possibly a KKK White Supremacist grand master, Same with what color my tyres are.

Also, If you will be so kind as to show not only myself, but other members how to correctly install the long streamers and ribbons you have extending out of your bikes handlebars?
I understand there is a special way to do this and after speaking with some hardcore Harley Davidson biker gang members, They have told me you have mastered this technique at quite a young age. I can't wait to be able to do this correctly and start riding very proudly down the street with my new streamers waving and dancing in the wind!!!

Thanks Mik,

I happened to have a long chat with Joel regarding his two offerings of carburetors, 29mm CV & 32 mm semi flat. He suggested that i should stick to 29mm carb along with the stock replacement Simota free flow air filter as per my touring requirement and also that semi flats are bit sensitive at high altitudes especially Leh and places around it (The Himalayas, India) where one can reach heights of 16,000 ft and above. I was harassing the poor guy while he was busy in the local circuit for JK Nationals car championships! I was just curious if your carb fits directly in place of the stock carb's.

Anyways, moving away from the usual squabble of war of the words ,

Joel has intimated that the power up kits will be shipped from RC tomorrow evening and i should receive it in a week's time (blame it on the lousy courier service in India!). But due to my personal commitments, i won't be able to reach Mumbai before October. So i guess my RC parts will be waiting there for me till then .

Once i reach Mumbai, i will have to dismantle my FZ's engine and ship the engine head to Joel RC for the altered port geometry work to be carried out by Joel. Hopefully by 2nd or 3 week, my build should be ready. I have an ace mechanic who knows Yamaha 4 stroke engines both 150cc and SBKs inside out so the build shouldnot take more than 30-40 mins to complete plus with biking guru Abhimanyu31's stern inspection along with his set of measuring tools will ensure that the installation is correct to the T.

My fellow mate Abhimanyu31 will be simultaneously getting his R16 souped up to 180cc special race version kit which can put serious nos. on 0-100 kmph drag runs... so we both are excited atleast i am getting hyper day be day!!

more on that later..

Cheers,

I hope you take longer than 30-40mins to measure, do your calc's, mock up, spin the motor over, disassemble and then check for valves hitting piston, piston clearance, etc.
Measure twice, Cut once.

The flat and semi flat slides are more for racing WOT applications, they don't like cruising too much with the slide not moving, However comparing a CV Vs Semi Flat the delivery of power is almost chalk and cheese. The CV delivers smoother power, the semi flat is far more aggressive and very responsive, However with that power delivery you need to be very smooth and deliberate with throttle openings.
I still have a brand new Mikuni TM28 flat slide sitting in its box, It would have been interesting to see how a flat slide compares to a semi flat but the 5mm difference in ID will skew the results.

Well that's why i have my guru/expert Abhimanyu31 to handle the measurement, precision and calculation depts. Anyways, my ace mechanic has already built and rebuilt 100s of FZ, R15s engines (stock OEM) so that will not be a problem.

If i am correct the compression ratio of the engine with the 180cc big bore kit will be now bumped to 10:5:1 compared to stock 9:5:1 .

i would love to see your report on the Flat Vs Semi Flat Carbs.. would be an interesting and enriching experiment and the info would be quite an insightful for us all folks on this thread.

Cheers,