hello bikers, _/\_

yesterday i was driving thru stop-go traffic, i noticed that the engine had heated a lot and i could feel the heat on my leg also and on to the fuel tank (the bike had done 20-25kms). I was a bit shocked to feel this. I decided to cool of my bike to get it in right shape again. My baby is just 7 months old and has done 4100KMS on it. I dun over strain my bike in any way, have done periodical services with regular oil changes and other required stuffs for it.



Again after driving for about 10 odd KMS (after cooling), i could again feel the heat, this time the traffic was running. Also, i had to accelerate a bit on the higher side in the 1st gear (does not happen on regular days) for the pick up, or else the bike would stop. I am somehow not comfortable with the Yamalube.

What are your views on this?? Any issues have you faced with the Yamalube??

Cheerz!!!

Guys whats the benefit of using Ngk G power instead of Stock spark plugs?

It's a simple biking knowledge - a 100 cc bike can go close to 100 km/hr mark but do you think you can belt it to the maximum speed for a very long time? Same it is when the cc increase step by step like 125,135,150,180, 220 cc etc....bikes., the tolerance at high speeds will also increase, everyone will agree with this theory Not sure what you are trying to say with that reply Manu?
If this ratio you mention above (100cc = 100kph, 200cc = 200kph) is constant then a 600cc can go 600kph? 1000cc = 1000kph?
Actually the top speeds are similar (R6/CBR600/CBR1000/R1 300kph+) HP and TQ are less in the smaller cap engines, this is when the drag coefficient comes into play. Gearing is what determines your acceleration and top speed, HP gets you there, while drag, rider/s weight reduces your top speed and acceleration.

When I said Joel's RC kit can, it's because it was informed both by the creater and the Rider who done the mods to his bike. Ryan made us understand that Joel setup his kits to tolerate high speeds and especially with the High lift racing camshaft which is specially made to tolerate high RPM. And Joel is a race engineer, I don't think I have any credentials to question him and I don't know how much you have!
Camshaft doesn't know if its a stock, mid, turbo/supercharged, race, highlift/duration grind cam. It will spin at the speed you want to rev your engine to (RPM means camshaft revolutions per minute, not crank rotations incase you didn't know) A high revving cyl heads (where the camshaft is installed incase you didn't know where the cam is located) worst enemy is valve bounce. Valve springs will need to be stronger to prevent the valves from staying open due to the spring not being able to close the valves with the high RPM.
Joel mentions piston speed and that is what restricts how high RPM you should be revving your engine to, If you exceed the safe piston speed then you say goodbye to your engine. You just mention "high speeds" but fail to mention if you are referring to road speed or engine speed. Please be more specific in future so not to cause confusion.

As far as reliability is concerned Ryan already witnessed 20k kms on his Joelled one and he isn't facing any problems either in mileage and pickup. The day I reach 20k kms on my bike's ODO, surely I'll be passing more than 4 years (it's very long way to go), so I'm not at all worried about reliability of products by Joel.

I met a well-wisher a week ago and I was talking about his 20 year old Hero Honda CD 100 SS and he was mentioning that he didn't take his bike more than 50km/hr speed and his 20 year old bike is still in stock condition, engine not touched. and still it gives 75km/l mileage. Many bikes of that same model are rotting in garages but his bike is as it was on Day 1 - By this it can be assumed that your theory of over-pampering of the bike is nullified.
Proof?
How much preventative maintenance has he done in the past 20yrs. Its not just ride it slowly and park it up, You still have to maintain and replace parts as they wear out. Is this not "over-pampering" as you put it? Not to mention different engine design
Would you ride a 2T at low rpm? Do you know what happens to a 2T ridden too sedately?

Udippto was mentioning about cruising @ 60-70km/hr speed and changing gears @4.5-5.5 to attain that speed in the last gear is not at all nonsense rather I place it as decent which also increases some mileage. Riding into a headwind with your bike at those rpm will result in you needing to downshift or you will find yourself slowly coming to a halt. Riding uphill at those rpm will have the same result. So you will be doing the same with your RC engine? You better ask JJ about that. If you want to cruise then you can cruise in 5th gear @40kph for all I care, Just when you need to get out the way of something you will need to downshift back to 2nd, By then you will have possibly been wiped all over the road. Ride to the road, weather and traffic conditions, Not to a number on your tacho. Personally I change gears around 6k+

Finally what's written about the reliability of modded products - You yourself answering the questions. Yes if chinese/indonesian made kits can survive the mods then how much more the joelled ones which was engineered by a Race Engineer!
Please be more specific with your broad answer. What parts? cyl, piston, head, valves, carb, bearings etc have failed on chinese/indo builds?
I am interested to know where you can make these comparisons, Since I don't know of anyone in the XBHP FZ forum with a similar engine to mine aside from Luc.
How do you make these assumptions one is better than another? Have you had a review? Ridden the bikes firsthand? Done extensive metalurgy tests on the metals, strength tests, dyno, Destructive testing to see what one holds up the longest?


Just for the record, My engine cyl, head are Genuine Yamaha items, Made in India. The valve seats, new installed bigger valve guides and custom headwork are done in Indonesia however I had to finish these as the head was sent to me incomplete.
My 2 crank bearings are made in Japan, My piston is a forged aluminium RRGS made in Taiwan. My Keihin carb is made in Japan with Sudco completing them, Stainless Exhaust Header made in VN, Carbon Yoshi made in Japan (no problems with the glasswool or plating peeling off after 2+yrs of use on 2 different bikes, Unlike RC's glasswool needing replacing after 7months and replating due to rust) Rear caliper is made in Japan by Nissin, Along with the rear caliper sub assy. My CDI is made in Singapore, Theres a lot of Chinese people in SG, so perhaps you can class that part as "Chinese"
RC has had some issues with their cyl's failing but you forgot to mention this.
This was possibly due to the cyl being machined too big to suit the supplied piston or the piston machined too small to suit the cyl, However and I stand by this 100% as will other who have built engines before, Had the mechanic done their homework, added up the numbers, checked the clearances then this issue will never have happened.

This is where Hi Po Engine builders is akin to having a double edge sword, it cuts both ways.
A customer buys the custom parts, get their "guy" to install it, the engine breaks down. Straight away its the fault of the engine parts supplier, Not the guy (mechanic) who just slapped the bits together assuming they will play nicely, Instead of measuring the parts with a vernier, mic and measure everything from gasket thickness/diameter, cyl diameter on 2 Axis in multiple positions, Measure and weigh up the piston/s, Measure little end and big end clearances, Check for ring endgap clearances and make sure they are suitable for your application (ie drag, high speed, commuter, track) cc the combustion chamber, Determine your CR and what fuel you can run do numerous engine mockups, spin the motor over, strip down and check for parts hitting then you cannot just assume the "plug n play" engine parts will plug and play.

Had I done that then yes my engine would not even start, However thanks to the measuring, mockups my mechanic had found the problems, sorted them out before the final assembly.

You need to look outside of India for modified bikes Manu, The amount of modified FZ's in India is like a drop in the ocean in comparison with the likes of Indonesia, South America and Philippines.
Some of my facebook friends will have noticed a Single swingarm mod complete with 2 matching rims, rear disc conversion. Tell me if RC makes one? or anyone in India for that matter?
Same with rear disc sets, I have bought 2 rear disc sets from 2 different countries. Haven't found an Indian manufacturer selling one in kit form.
What country has a 220cc+ Byson? (There's a hint for you) Its not a RC Engine, Due to Joels concern about a pistons mass and speed (Not rpm) he limits his engine to 180cc.
Where are there so many modified FZ's and their variants? It certainly isn't India that's for sure.

If you don't want Chinese or Indo products then pay the extra money, Get a higher quality product, In my case I had no option (though now I can make my own 66mm cyl for 200cc engines) Can you show me links to where I can get a 200cc "Chinese" made FZ engine?




Great to hear that you are getting maximum speed of 126 and 127 km/hr and no offence on that claims but it maybe because of two reasons

1. Speedo-meter might not be accurate after 120km/hr speed

2. There is some special thing in your bike, please share it with Yamaha Guys, they might take it for research and may pay hefty in return.

If the reason 2 is right then I would wait for 1 more year for the research results then start upgrading mine, hhahaha

Anyways no offence brother, Take a GPS device and cross check your speed and just don't rely on speedometer.

This I always tell in other foreign FZ-16 forums when guys there claim that they have reached 140km/hr on stock.
When will YOU do a GPS run for yourself Manu? Instead of always preaching the "Theory" I think its time for you to actually go out and do something, Instead of talking about it.
I'm waiting for the accurate results. I'm interested in your results A before and after comparison to see the improvement over the stock engine.

Here are the pics:
Starter Motor Stolen:








With no option I finally bought a new starter motor. Total cost with Labor: 1450 Rs

It's a simple biking knowledge - a 100 cc bike can go close to 100 km/hr mark but do you think you can belt it to the maximum speed for a very long time? Same it is when the cc increase step by step like 125,135,150,180, 220 cc etc....bikes., the tolerance at high speeds will also increase, everyone will agree with this theory Not sure what you are trying to say with that reply Manu?
If this ratio you mention above (100cc = 100kph, 200cc = 200kph) is constant then a 600cc can go 600kph? 1000cc = 1000kph?
Actually the top speeds are similar (R6/CBR600/CBR1000/R1 300kph+) HP and TQ are less in the smaller cap engines, this is when the drag coefficient comes into play. Gearing is what determines your acceleration and top speed, HP gets you there, while drag, rider/s weight reduces your top speed and acceleration. The usual, Replies in bold.

i am not sure about ur problem with manu..but he never mentioned 100cc = 100kph, 200cc = 200kph..i think its ur childish thinking..or may be u want show something that you are superior..but i think personally that you are not..its not a place to show your superiority over others like manu.
If asking for clarification is being superior then so be it. I prefer factual answers, Not a guestimate.

dont know whats again problem with jj.i only asked for the 60-70kmph cruise that he answered..if u cant read or post the exact answer then please dont..i never asked about 90-100kmph cruise..
I wasn't replying to you but to Manu's reply. Perhaps you need to read who my reply was intended for.

I can't believe just how much BS gets thrown around and believed to be true without anyone questioning it.
When I ask the poster to clarify or prove their statement I get called with a superiority complex. Would you rather live in denial and after taking some misinformed advice end up with a potentially life threatening accident waiting to happen? If that was the case then my bike would have exploded a long time ago.

It seems like if you don't know the answer or have no proof then don't let that stop you from replying. Make something up and say a good friend told you therefore it must be true. Anyone who questions you will be labeled with a Superior complex and sent to the bad boys corner for the rest of the class.
In future I won't bother to correct those who post incorrect information for fear of being "Superior" I'll just ride around on my chinese/indonesian modified bike

Stainless Exhaust Header made in VN, Carbon Yoshi made in Japan (no problems with the glasswool or plating peeling off after 2+yrs of use on 2 different bikes, Unlike RC's glasswool needing replacing after 7months and replating due to rust)

Just an update Mik, post Oct '12 all FFEs from RC will be of SS grade and so will the trouble of re-filling the glasswool issue. The earlier gen was made keeping the price sensitive Indian market in mind.. but after receiving general feedback from consumers and you guys as well, Joel has decided to start producing SS versions and the mild steel FFEs production will come to halt.Thats great to hear, Just needs to make the muffler look more moden and possibly with CF as a option. More $$ yes but for heat insulation and safety. I can touch my CF muffler after riding and not get burnt, Try that with SS or Ti.
High end mufflers have a matting type of insulator, Not loose fiberglass. Do you know if RC will be using this matting instead of the fiberglass? I opened up my damaged Yoshi and saw the matting, It is like a cotton outer "bag" with the glass fibers inside. Wrapped around the perforated tube.

I have decided that from now on i will not talk anymore about the reliability factor of RC products till my 180cc build is complete and once i start clocking solid miles on my own build along with substantial proof of power output using G tech Pro RR data logger unit and the habitual blabbering i do on my usual posts along with pics and let the rest of the members and other readers be a judge of that. Love pics!!!! I will have to meet up with some other FZ riders in Saigon and get some pics.

Even I had requested him to consider a 200cc kit to which he flatly refused on the grounds of my requirement where i intend build a touring set up. I would trust his judgement as locally in India there are no other manufacturers/tuners who have gone ahead offering a range of kits for the puny 150cc category considered as a premium motorcycles in India. Unlike Phllipines, Singapore/ Thailand, hot roding scene in India has just started some 3 years back thanks to Joel, RC. Until that earlier all other mods were tires, fibre body kits and weird looking disco lights i have no idea WHY!

It takes time for these things to catch on, but when they do they really take off. As we are all getting good money, we have a disposable income, Now we can mod our rides (bikes and cars)


Cheers,

In future I won't bother to correct those who post incorrect information for fear of being "Superior" I'll just ride around on my chinese/indonesian modified bike

Thanks everyone for helping me with replies and PM. Got the dark lord(of the streets) home today

Dude clean your engine will you
Is that new starter the same one that was stolen off your bike?