Re: Yamaha FZ-16

New Fzs , 300 kms old..

Gear shiftin to lower gears is not smooth, i keep shiftin to low, bt it wont shift..n sudnly shifts

Vibrations above 40kmph..

The sound in the muffler has changed from smooth (wen i bought it a week bak) to rough...



ARE THESE 3 normal? Pls reply asap.... tia guys

n also tell me after first servicing, will these problems be rectified?

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I was tired of the bikes handle grips... During rains the stock handle grips become very slippery... very difficult to maintain throttle as well as keeping 2 fingers on the brake lever at the same time. I feel the handle grips provided by Bajaj are far better in this regard. Never had any problem during the rains on my friends Discover.
So I bought some cheap foam handle grips worth 40 bucks from Reliance Mart They looked like they were made for the FZ/Fazers because they came in the exact colours these bikes come in (Black/Green, Black/Yellow, Black/Orange etc)
Tried a lot to fix them but couldn't. They are really hard to get on unless you use some tools. Took it to my local mechanic. He used some chain oil and all his might to put them on. No tools... just brute forced them on.

Although these are pretty cheap handle-grips, they feel pretty good especially during rains as they are made of foam, and they are black and green (same as my bike and they go really well... except that SVC guys soiled them badly during last service ).
They probably wont last very long but who cares when you got them so cheap.

Cheers!!

@Mad Mik: i was researching on the topic on when RPM to shift properly and most of the forums had the same answer for it to shift at 4K RPM.That's the reason i do it.
and 30-45kmph just because she didn't yet had her first servicing but i will make sure i shift it at 5-6K RPM if that's the correct way.


@Lucky Luke: Buddy as i didn't complete my first servicing yet so i have to restrict everything.

I never cared for mileage just want to keep my engine Happy that's all...
just shared my mileage figures because it was one of the least things i bothered and i got surprised by the fact that FZS was giving 50km/liter before first servicing.

It normal. Find a sweet spot (while pulling the clutch in) where your gear changes smoothly.. use that place to change gear and your gear changing effort will minimise. pulling the clutch in and then changing gear is hard sometimes.

with these you will face another challenge.. when you start off during rains.. you will have to squeeze them so that rain water is drained off. dont start off without draining the excess water.
I also lose grip in the first start during rains.. wiping the grip and the hands does work well for the first start.. and during the ride, no issues.

I tried them too but the quality was really bad they started peeling off, I think the grips I mentioned can be only installed if the existing ones are removed please correct me if I am wrong.

I was taking it up past 6K when I was running my engine in, Less than 100km's and I was already redlining it. This was on both the stock and my 200cc engine.
So far the engine hasn't missed a beat. So I have to disagree with you on the "rules" of engine run in. Mine is the proof that you don't have to stick to the silly outdated "rules"
I do the same also with my other 3 scooters when I bought them.

Let's agree to disagree, Muztariq!

If I cannot deny the foundation of your advice since it's based on Yamaha Owner's manual, I still have to correct it!

This manual (let's stick to that and not pretend to be better than Yamaha engineers!) say precisely: to avoid prolonged operation above 4.5 k.r pm and above 6k rpm. for the firsts 500 and 1,000 km. That does not mean shifting imperatively at those revs - or in that case we are discussing: even below! - but to avoid the build of excessive heat by prolonged operation, which heat would cause excessive metal dilatation , causing prejudicial wear.

There has been repetitive discussions here about this running in period. There are other successful ways than the one recommended by Yamaha, as Mik reports, but those are to be used by people with a "feeling" for mechanics, and even some real experience. For the others: better stay with the recommended method.

However, sticking to this method does not mean being extra careful! Doing so also has its drawbacks (carbon depots, glazing...). There is a fundamental difference between "not above for etc..." and "keep below": the former means you CAN go above, just don't overdo it. The second means you CAN'T go above....and that is wrong (and a distortion of the original recommendation)! It is good for an engine, even brand new, to get occasional moderate revving up during it's first hours of operation, above the recommended mark that clearly states "not for prolonged operation"

I want to also add something to this careful running in period: the load of the bike! In another thread, one complained that his engine suffered damages while it had just been "hot rodded"....but also mentions that he did his running in with a pillion passenger, and this on a long trip from where this hot rodding had been done up to his place, which all can understand also meant a non negligible weight in luggage (the weight of the rider plus pillion was not precised....). Doing this exerts high pressure on the piston, even though the recommended revolutions were not exceeded, and can cause damageable irregular wear to engine components. This to say that concentrating ones attention on his rev counter only, and even give it that little bit extra security margin (:"let's cut off some 500 revs, for security sake") is far from being the only thing to consider and can even be prejudicial.

I Agree with Luke on this,

To be precise if i remember correctly i would also like to add that the manual does mention that one has to let the engine cool off for some time after 1 hour of operation during run-in period if one goes by the manual. Secondly, one should not stick at 4500 rpm throughout the journey commenced to finish off run in rather modulate the throttle which i believe i have mentioned and many others have too many many pages ago but obviously non of us have the patience nor the willingness to go through the whole thread.

An informative article about run-in: http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/running

So Noobs/first timers, a sincere request, if you do have a query which may be repetitive, before posting do try this, type the generic query say:

a) PDI/Pre Delivery inspection/What to check getting a new bike: open google and type your query+Yamaha fz16/fazer+xbhp.

b) Lighting mod i.e. lighting upgrade/HID: same+Yamaha FZ16/Fazer+xbhp on google

c) run in style/run in period: same+xbhp to be typed on google

etc...

Chances are you will likely hit most of the pages having these answers right from a simple search.


Cheers,

yes all the above 3 are normal......

gear shift will be smooth gradually after first 2 servicing....

if at particular gear when it wont budge to shift down try releasing the clutch.... not completly....but partially (75%)..u'll see the gear will automatically disengage......each gear has a speed range when u need to shift up and shift down.......this locking of gear happens when u suddenly shift down fast even when the bike is in higher speed......

mine is 2.5k kms.....still get vibrations when i am in 55-60KMPH range...later it fades......

sound also changes after some times as "showroom wala" sound wont remain as u go on using ur bike.....


last but not the least....experts ....correct me if wrng.....

Yes I do squeeze off the excess water. And I still find it pretty grippy in the rains. With the OEM handle-grips I always had a tough time. Even after wiping them off using a cloth. Maybe its the way I hold the throttle - only the thumb and the last two fingers with my palm are actually on the handle-grips. The other two fingers are on brake lever.
With these foam grips I felt much more comfortable.

I'm not sure about the grips you mentioned. Maybe you can take them to the SVC and ask those guys.

Cheers!!

Re: Yamaha FZ-16

Thanks bro :beer::thumbup:

N yup, ill surely try that..thanks a lot!

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Hi fello Xbhpians,
I brought my first bike Fazer on July 2012 and rode it very carefully till 1000 kms i.e. maintaining the speeds of 40 to 50 and rpm below 4500. After completing the 1st servicing and crossing 1000 kms i have started riding at speeds of 70 to 80 occasionally on highways. Recently 3rd servicing is completed and i have crossed 3000 kms. So i went on my first and small tour of around 400 kms from Hyderabad to Nagajuna Sagar and back. On this tour i have cruised at 80 to 90 kmph most of the time and occasionally touching 100 kmph with only 3 butt breaks of around 20 mins each.
After this tour my bike's gear shifts became a bit hard and also i feel that the engine became bit hard. Is it Ok? Please advise me is it ok to ride at constant speeds of around 90 kmph at this stage.

For those who are interested in seeing a stock FZ power curve.


Those who want to make enquiries into the Yoshimura exhausts, These are their distributor. Makes a alternative to the ugly RC FFE.
Source.
Yoshimura product site : FZ16/BISON - FULL SYSTEM STAINLESS TRI-CONE CARBON END


The tq curve or curves should I say are quite interesting. The HP curve will help those who want to know when to change gears. Although there are no numbers to correspond with the charts we can assume each horizontal line is 1000rpm

Tell me how you interpret the charts and how your current riding habits correspond to the lines.

Check the engine oil level after warming up the engine. If the engine oil level is low then top it up with the same mineral oil. If you have used the engine oil for too long say 2000 kms then chances are the oil has gone bad. If one does a lot of highway rides then shifting to SS or FS oil is recommended. The cheaper FS oil is Motul 7100 20W 50: INR 700-800 per ltr. Motul 300V 15W 50 was around INR 980 the last time i had bought, may have increased now.

If you are using mineral stick with Motul 3000V 20W 40. Try and avoid Yamalube as the current lot is really crappy. Mineral oil based on your riding style can last 2000-2800 kms before due for servicing.

Cheers,

I wonder any one these days, at lest me, have ever took the help of the charts for optimum power extraction while gear shifting.
All we know here and do is Red Line Shifting.....!!!

I am also curious, if any one could explain the above.

Mad Mik, Abhimanyu, Shiv ???? any1 ?

Regards,
-Rohan