Some oil reduction issue addressed...

Dear All,

There were some posts stating the bike oil getting reduced in this forum:

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...16-a-1292.html

Oil burn due to over heating
Ok I am frustrated to the level of selling my most prized possession. I did a pune-kolhapur-pune ride two days back. An 8 hour trip with bike cooling breaks in between. Top speed 120 speeds usually around 100-110.
Today I noticed that my gear shifts were sticky and difficult. Check engine oil and its way below the minimum. Not the first time after a log ride. this happened in my last trip to mumbai too. Both were solo rides. By the way it was perfect after my trip tI mahableshwar with a poison two weeks back. odo says 1600 km since last oil change. Running yamah semi synthetic. Any pointers please

similar issue with another RTR rider:

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...rtr-180-a.html Mysterious Engine oil burning issue in Apache RTR 180
Guys, I am having a weired yet serious problem with my bike TVS APACHE RTR 180.
My bike is running on Motul W40 mineral engine oil. Earlier to this i was using Castrol Power 1 SS.

The engine oil level is drastically decreasing on high speed riding.
When I ride the bike at speed of 100-110 kmph for say 3 hours, the engine oil level on dipstick is coming down to half marking from the full marking.
But when i ride at a speed of 75-85 kmph for the same above duration there is no dip or drop of engine oil(as seen on dipstick).

When I checked the exhaust outlet(FFE), there is some carbon on the exhaust but its not oily deposit of carbon, its same like when your bike's A\F is on richer side.

There is also no visible smoke while riding or while revving the bike at stand still. I can only see smoke when the bike is revved to 11k RPM and beyond on stand still.

And when I checked the spark plug, it was showing symptom of as bike was running lean on AF mixture. It was all whiteash in colour. If bike is burning engine oil than there should have been black oily carbon deposit on spark plug tip but there is none.

There is one more unusual thing here is that, in the Air filter box there is some oil and I am sure that its not the oil from Air Filter. And it was more that normal.

As far as the acceleration is concerned bike is still pulling pretty good till 100 kmph but after that it struggles to go above and doesn't give Apache RTR like feel, but still manages 120 kmph but takes time.

But one thing I am sure of that, the bike is burning engine oil which i can deduce from dipstick levels; when i ride continuously at high RPM/Speed and working perfectly normal on low RPM/Speed that is no engine oil level drop.

Guys if the rings would have gone here, bike would have behaved in the same manner irrespective of RPM/Speed. And would have given above stated symptoms

Guys i need you help and suggestion here to fix this problem because i am already running on my second block which ran for just 13k kms and now giving this problem.


Unquote:

I have tried to answer the unanswered question:

Whenever you are riding at high speeds continously.. The heat generated in the engine is much higher than the capacity of the oncoming air in an air cooled engine which takes away the heat. This sometimes or rather most of the times leads to unequal distribution of heat in the engine. Some places are hot and some cold.. This leads to unequal cylinder expansion in these areas. The piston rings are unable to take back the oil from the over-expanded side of the cylinder which leads to oil escaping into the combustion chamber and oil level starts decreasing. This is usually a temporary case and the engine comes back to normal position on cooling down or when you ride at an rpm at which the engine heat produced can be efficiently taken away by the oncoming air. To avoid this situation try 1. buying a fluid cooled bike for such long rides..2. Else try taking a break every hour or so to forcefully cool down the engine.. 3. Try riding at speeds at which this doesnt happen 4. Try using thicker oils which can still be brought back by the piston 5. Try using oils which can efficiently transfer the heat produced usually synthetics does this work to some extent. Option 4 and 5 are very vague and may not work at all. Sometimes when the distorsion is very marginal they can work wonders in either avoiding the non uniform heat build up or reducing gap between the distorted cylinder.

Please dont blame the engine oil for this.. I have seen Greenknight sharing his experience with Motul.. This thing can happen on any oil!

Hope the query is resolved..

Today called up cust care to enquire if i can buy Yamalube from SVC but the answer was negative

They say that if any SVC is selling engine oil separately then it is against Yamaha's policies and illegal

No other go but to give my bike for yet another crappy service at the SVC and god knows if they really change the oil to a fresh one.

and why do you want to go for yamalube?

you can also go for mtoul mineral oil... better than yamalube IMO...

Here Yamalube and each and every spare available over the counter at both SVCs and there is a dedicated Yamaha authorized spare outlet and unauthorized, but genuine spare seller

Roadtrip

Hey guys,

Just came back from my longest ride yet. A 700 Km to and fro Solo trip to Satara from Mumbai. The bike feels so comfortable even after continuous riding for long distances. Handling is crisp and the brakes: lets just say they were there when i needed them. I had a huge backpack on so didn't even try to set any personal speed records but was consistently doing 90-107 Kmph between 7K to 8K RPM.
In keeping with the impetus on safety, I had on a Scoyco JK-17, snugly fitting LS-2 helmet and those not so expensive riding gloves with fibre knuckle protectors.
Although the bike did not give me any trouble whatsoever, I just wanted some advise on anything specific that I should take care about. After having tasted blood, I think the range of my trips will only increase. If there is any pre-ride checklist for FZ that the tourers follow, please share.

whenever i go for touring of more than 250km on fz i keep the following things with me:1. motul chain lube2. tubeless tyre puncture repair kit3. first aid kit4. spare bulbpre ride i check the following:1. engine oil2. braking power for the first 50km3. chain slackness4. electricals should be working fine.5. rear view mirrors.

Thanks for your update. My questions were just queries from a novice rider. I have burnt my hands with those relatively faster, longer rides and have come down to the range of 95-100 Kmph touring. The yamalube SS 15w50 has been able to take this kind of long touring at 90-100kmph. But I was surprised and confused as to how the Motul FS could not take this.
My earlier ride was a 2004 Scooty pep, a punny 80cc that could do 70kmph...
A Fazer feels rock solid, but I have had valve issues earlier and the Factory shop mechs cared two hoots for it. Have found a better SVC now.
Might switch over to a more powered liquid cooled bike in the future but for now it shall be the 150 cc Fazer...Still trying to learn its limitations. I knew the limitations of a pep, but the Yamaha engine is so refined and the bike build so good that one tends to misjudge the limitations....

I am still learning....

Btw the Motul case was in normal city riding at speeds upto 90 kmph

!! +1 for that!
Ummm... Hey everyone... I'm Pretty new to xBHP... The Name's GURU! ... I'm a lil more than 5'11", and pretty lean... and i sure own an FZ(S that is) Black Cyber Green.... Seriously.. ppl... if u like the bike(no doubt about that whatsoever! ), jus go for it! Its freakin good!! Enjoy every bit of your ride, mateys!

introduce yourself in who are you section.

Slime

Anyone here used Slime , the anti-puncture thing on the FZ's rear tyre ?
What is the exact quantity required for the same ?
Also my rear tyre already had 2 punctures before which were fixed using the strip method , should i still put slime? how was your experience after using the product.

21000km ride report..... 2 years 5 months.....

rear tyre changed, air filter changed once, oil filter changed at alternate oil changes, 35W H4 HID from tourer-gear.com (navnesh),

top speed 126kmph (odo reading), mileage latest test 37kmpl (heavy city traffic) should give around 40kmpl in normal city traffic and 42kmpl on highways.

rear brake overhauling and cleaning done once.... the liners should last another couple of thousand.
front brake as it is.... the pads should last about 2000kms more.

Front shock absorber overhauling done once....

things changed not even onced:
1. front tyre
2. chain
3. sprocket
4. rear brake liner
5. front disc pads
6. brake oil

tools in hand:
1. ring spanners 19*18, 17*16, 13*12, 11*10
2. tool kit provided by the company

Safety Gear at hand:
1. Vega Corah Helmet (city riding)
2. LS2 Piston Head
3. DSG Maze
4. Cramster MX2
5. Scoyco Knee guard

seat moded

sorry guys as I wasn't able to arrange time to log on to xbhp.. a few days back uplifted the pillion's seat by an inch and a quarter.. and added a thin sheet of sponge for me which is not noticeable coz i am quite comfortable with the stock seat for rider...

Nice mod
btw,was it done over the existing seat cover?if so hows it fixed on to the stock seat?
Are there ready made seats such as these available??

Hmm,yamaha should have got something like this, as stock itself!!

Nice mod bilalans. Would you mind sharing where have you got the mods done in Mumbai which shop??

Cheers

I had put SLIME in the rear 6 months ago n m highly satisfied with it.

B4 i put it i saw a pressure drop of 4 - 5 psi every week which meant i had top it up every week. Now though i see 2-3 psi drop in a month. And its the best thing to go into a tire as i do long rides @ night. Can easily ride for long distance with the puncture without any worry.

You get a 250ml bottle for ~Rs600 which is enough for the rear tire fill up.

Ma rear tire had been repaired with 6 punctures wen i put slime, so u can def go ahead n fill it.