Wrong info. It needs 1L even without filter change.

For filter, it will need another 50-60mL only to soak a new filter. If not changing the filter (recommended only every 10k km, though some guys change at every oil change), filter will be having the old oil and in that case if waht you mentioned is the way, the engine will be having extra 100 mL

right now busy with the kid.. What i have mentioned is absolutely the case that happened with me.. I bought shell advance ultra 1l and decided not to change the filter as it was changed in the last oil change and the oil (castrol power 1) was just 500 km old. As i was so eager to put in the fs oil which i bought 2 months back i didnt change the filter.. Just drained the oil ( even tilited the bike both sides to extract the last drop i can) and poured in the 1 litre can. Nothing came out of the bike but i can see the oil from the dipstick area it was just touching the rim. I started the engine so that the oil can circulate. The level remained the same. Took a thin pipe and poured the extra oil in a kissan jam 200 g bottle. It filled to the brim. Again started the engine to re circulate the oil.. Checked the level again.. This time it was just touching the top level mark of the dipstick. From this small funny experient i can say that atleast 100 ml oil less is required when you are not changing the filter.. I mean, when you are not taking out the filter, throwing the old oil and reinstalling it again.

Have got pictures of the 1l ultra bottle and the kissan jam bottle.. Typing from mobile.. Will upload from comp when the kid sleeps..

So you are saying Yamaha is wrong

Something wrong somewhere. You may not have drained properly before filling up the oil. You have to wait a long time and do some tricks like cranking without plugs to get full oil out. Some oil will be stuck up.

I always soak new filter with separate oil before installing and my level falls right with 1L can precise. I've changed oil in my bike more than 15 times and oil filter at least 5 times, but I never got this 100 extra ml from my engine.

There is something wrong in my refilling technique then!! I didnt open the oil filter chamber at all! Just thinking what to do with this remaining mix of FS and SS oil!!

Sorry for the poor quality mobile pics..

One more thing.. When the SVC guys change the oil filter and oil (1l Yamalube) the level is same as when you soak filter in 50-60 ml of a separate oil and put 1L more.. yours should be 50-60 ml extra!!


Update: Actually It has got more confusing - on this forum itself!!



Quote: Nand15 to Greenknight:At the last oil change , was the filter changed ? If yes , then what quantity of oil went in ? Because most times , even at SVC , when the filter is changed they put in only 1L of oil , whereas when the filter is changed we need to put in 1.2L ... that 200ml is very important ... I had the same issue as yours , because the extra 200ml had not gone in . check that and revert .

So my question is does the oil filter consume 200 ml of oil??

From the look of it.. I think Engine oil+Oil filter capacity is 1L only as per my calculation. I have to take out around 200 ml of oil when I didnt change the oil filter and poured in 1L of fresh oil!!

Sorry, but I was not citing Nand, who was innocently asking for advice, but THIS advice!

Another just as ill advice right up here by the same person....

I do not think that warning is something that should be criticized, even if it is hard for who has given false/ dangerous information: this forum's admins insists on security, and since many of the members are young riders, this is something that has to be taught as often as necessary.

Then, guys, you can get me banned, ask the admins to kick me out of this forum, but I just too often see very wrong advices here, specially on this FZ16 owners section.

Examples:
- oil change needs ONE entire liter IF the oil filter is not changed, but 1.2 liter if it is changed (owner's manual page 6-9), to do for the oil that stays in the filter recess and is not drained, and nothing to do with "soaking" the filter.
- Dipstick: to measure the oil level the dipstick must NOT be screwed back on, but just touch the block. When saying "not tighten it" means been already screwed on.
- Fully synthetic oil: bike too "new" at 3,000 km???? Wrong information again. I have even read not less than 5,000! Sorry, but it is half of that: after about 1,500 km, the engine can be run WOT, and no more running in will be done, but wearing beyond the already reached optimum. Beyond that: it is simply agEing. For racing engines the running in time is even shorter: less one hour is enough (but the tolerances are different)
....and the list goes on...!

This to say: many young riders, very often first time bike owners, come here for advice, in full confidence, believing that some of the frequent posters are generous, experienced bikers/ mechanics eager to help with sound, well documented advices. I am sorry to see that, if some are effectively capable of such most appreciated help (Like Abhijit did about chains), some are here only to present themselves as pundits, Mr. know-it-all, this for the futile sake of seeing their infantile thoughts posted on the Internet.

@deville_56, @muztariq, @Lucky Luke

Thanks for the replies guys.

Dear Lucky.. You are getting very personal against me,, Every post is debatable.. its important to come to a conclusion.

Consider a post from you:

Hi guys,

I am going for a bore-up kit + reworked head with bigger calves, bigger carb, and new exhaust.

Please do not take this as a critic to Joel, who appears undeniably as not only a very nice person (we have exchange about ten mails) but also a very good engineer, but the parts I will be using will not come from Race-concepts, mainly because I have decided to go for ....200cc.! Joel is obviously super-busy and does not appear to consider working on a 200cc. for this bike...at the moment.

So, for those who may be interested, the parts I am getting (and which can certainly be obtained in India too) are:
- 66m. TDR forged piston with accessories
- re-bored cylinder with centrifugally cast liner (made in Indonesia, but you can have superb parts made by COSMO )
- 29 and 34mm. high performance valves
- corresponding valve seats from COSMO
- BS 29 carburetor with manifold and rubber

The head will be ported here. I have extensive 3D and some flow analysis programs (CFD) and will "have fun" designing the ports and the combustion chamber. I do not mean I will do it better than Joel or even as well, but this will be an interesting research (just an application of the classics, actually: that's all I'm capable of doing!).

The exhaust will be another research subject, being essentially an enlargement of the stock one, without the catalytic converter of course, but keeping (?) a "midship" resonator, a similar aft muffler, and keeping the stock heat shield. This will never be as performing as a Free Flow, since sound attenuation systematically looses power, but I hope that the intricacies of resonance will not be too much of a headache!

Anyway: will let you know and share all the information here! That should be a hell of a bike, giving this great but underpowered bike the "muscle" it needs, and not only in the looks!



This very post bu you is not only considered irresponsible but also very dangerous (probably FATAL!) for the fellow (young riders, very often first time bike owners, come here for advice, in full confidence) as these mods are not approved by yamaha and have not been tested on the FZ set up.. mainly "braking system".. Giving these advices to those who are not having disc brakes like your's is FATAL!! Please abstain from that.

The very all concept of "Synthetic oil" being better than "Mineral oil" is debatebble and no company can prove that using Synthetic oil will prolong the engine life.. And you find numerous posts here stating that. That doesnt mean that the guy giving that advice is Mr. know-it-all.

Regarding my advice on link removal from chain - I admit, I was at mistake as I thought the life of all chains is 40-50 K but I was proved wrong. But your comments on the reply to my post were quite aggresive and arrogant. There are some posts on the internet where removing links is an advice given to guys facing similar problems but no one consider that "cheapos".

" Dan's Motorcycle "The Rear Chain"
If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers. This is very GROSS but it is effective. You normally have to remove them in pairs. Sometimes, you can get a special link that adds only one roller. "

But the guy further provides the implications of doing the above trick and calls for replacement of the chainset.

I have many more better things to do than to be considered as Mr.-Know it-all. Was just trying to help. As for your above upgarde comment - I can also call you Mr. Show Off.. But I wont, as I believe it was just written in good faith.

With this, my greatest fear of joining forums like these have become a reality and I have also pushed myself into exchanging comments like these which I never wanted. Voluntarilty taking back my membership from the forum. Some moderator can help me out in getting the BANNED status will be highly appreciated!!

Agree wid Lucky Luke on this matter, have seen many ppl on this forum dispense faulty information.
Very few give out well researched info which is very useful.

Lucky Luke might be obnoxious with words while giving out info but its quite useful piece of info no doubt.

And how difficult is it to go thru the user Manual just once to get the most basic info on the bike. I can bet 90% ppl never do it.
How many even know this bike has a Helmet Holder?????



Hey Abhijitkn

This was gr8 piece of info provided by you. Was throughly educating over the wear n tear of the chain n sprockets. I knew very less in this matter but thankz to u i have gained a lot of knowledge on the same
Keep up the good work.


Also muztariq's link was good info.



PS - had met shv18 few days ago n he let me ride his R170 (as he calls it) and it was a fantastic machine. Revved so fast that it would hit 8k rpm in jus 2 sec or less. I didnt bother to go beyond that cos the Free Flow on the bike was very loud. But completely loved it.

Although i agree with LuckyLuke on certain points, i would still request LuckyLuke to kindly maintain a decorum on this thread. Everyone has the right to discuss and provide information both good or bad. That is the only way certain age old misconceptions get kicked out of the box and both Noobs and people with lots of kms and years of riding experience come together and exchange plausible information.

Lets not do mud slinging and end up getting our respective posts deleted by mods which happens regularly on other threads.

Lets keep it clean, lets keep it healthy.


@iceman331: Hope you had a good time with the R170 (It has a stage III upgrade 173cc cylinder, hence the name ) . It is devilishy fast!! we are sorting out some minor ECU & fuel tweakings on the R170 to make it even faster... will try even more agressive ECU mapping keep you guys posted on Abhimanyu31's page.


Cheers

totally agreed. I dont know why ppl are so considerate about the taker and not the giver of the advice. Like in my advice of taking out links to prolong chain life would be definatly followed by me and i would have taken my life just based on the experience that foolish mechanic who took out my splendour's chain links gave me.. and i happily drove it at high speeds even when there was noise from the sproket!!

Sometime back someone gave an advice of 1000 km tyre breakin.. But following the healthy debate it was concluded that it may require a 150 km breakin max. Both the advice giver and taker were benefitted!!

Heartfelt sorry for my comments Mr. Lucky luke. I have understood what you meant to say... will only request you to be more Gentle..

Mods. Plz dont BAN me as per my previous request! I love this place..

@ Muztariq:

Hi,

although you drove happily with the worn out chain with links removed, it was wrong and if it was FZ's case a bit dangerous. iceman331 already had an incident which could have proved to be fatal if the chain would have given away while he was riding hard and at relatively high speeds. Being open chain on our bikes, if the chain gives away for any reason, it will end up getting stuck at the rear mag wheel, leading to a catastrophic accident one can imagine. But i am indeed glad that out of a healthy discussion both you and others were benefited. That's what this thread is all about

i believe, enough has been discussed on this front.. so lets just move on and not stress upon voluntarily getting/not getting banned from this thread .

We are all here to have a healthy discussion and troubleshooting problems we face so lets keep it to that.


All in good faith,

Cheers

^^^^+1

so the conclusion if the chain is elongated to the max and even if after that if you see the chain getting loosened up, it is better to change the chain set and the sprockets.... i

t is also good if you are going for a new chain or a wheelbase so long that you would need more than one chain then delinking the chain and relinking it again will not be a problem....

^^^

Regarding the above post's. Are'nt chains supposed to fall of when broken while riding??? I've heard a while back, that they're designed to work like that.

it might fall off, it might not.... but I think no one would want to risk that...

Now thats a fact for sure.