Nice! Where did you go? And is your bike stock or joel'd?

where did you go and are you planning to write a log with good pics


@rkakkar
even i noticed that when i changed my end bar cap once is it a big issue to be worried and who does water get inside thd bar

Not a big issue, but definitely someone's done costing cutting in quality there!! Even I was wondering how come water went in, but I suspect its through the gap in the center (where the screw fits in), when its probably facing the direction of the wind and rain.

it was a to and fro ride to pune from hyderabad. and my bike is fully stock planning for some joel mods after the reviews....

went to meet my gf....

@sunjay: no logs as dont have any pics....

he he ... the things we do for a girl , But yeah thats absolutely fantastic ... 1180 kms ain't no joke .

Kind of reminds me of the splendour ad , where the guy rides out a long way just to wish her goodnight ...

I would suggest to get it replaced as per the indications. If you maintain it well it should easily last you 25K.

That was a nasty incident. Glad that you are safe. You should have given that guy & his parents some peace of mind.

Thats a big list. Usually when we have a fall we normal break only one side of the fairing. How did you break both side of your fairings?

hehe then definetly no log and pics
travelling that long to see gf awesome

ha ha ha....

my butt is still sore....

Hi all

Hi all,

I just spent a good part of the last two days going through this mammoth thread! Oh: did not read ALL the posts, just flew over the whole thing, spending some more time on the subjects I found most interesting ....and there are quite a few!
Thanks to all the posters for this very lively thread!

But let me introduce myslef briefly first:

Bike is a (slightly modified) Fazer 2011. Main modif is disk rear brake, but also new painting scheme (and stickers) onto the original "midnight black" to make it now a "Midnight special". Looks gorgeous! I shall post pics when the weather will permit to take them (and after cleaning bike too: it rains everyday in Vietnam presently, making the bike immediately dirty).

Reading through the posts (all from India owners, of course), I wonder how many differences there are between the "export" one I have got and the "standard" one for India. What I notice are:
- both headlights work simultaneously, in both high and low beam. Light is however not that bright, even with both on (compared to the triple halogen on my other bike).
- not observed on my bike (still running in) but by other FZ owners here, it seems yours have some limits ours don't: ours go up to red zone very easily, even in fifth. I wonder if you may not have some limitation in the CDI, or else...?
- In the owner's manual, both 20/40 and 20/50 oil viscosity is prescribed (no 10/40), while I understand from all the posts I read here that 10/40 is prescribed in India....!!??!? India is not a specially "cold" country, AFAIK...! Well: I know a bit about lubricants, and this is really very small difference anyway! Still strange.

Not that this would mean any difference in the bike itslef, but in this same owners manual, they recommend not going over 4,,500 rpm for "prolonged operation" for the first 500km, and then not over 6,000 for the next 500, afterwhat the bike "can be operated normally" (and after changing oilf/ filter of course), while many here report staying below 4,000/ 4,500 for the first 1,000 km. Is that what you manual says?

What has not been much of my concern when reading through this thread are those so many post about mileage. If you, guys, would be paying the enormous tax we have in Vietnam, the cost of gas would become a secondary concern: here, we pay a Fazer ....230,000 Indian Rupees! So, mileage is really the last thing I feel concerned about, and I cannot really see me, on such an effectively macho bike, asking to a girl-friend: "do you mind we share the gas expense?" (no offense meant!)

But besides that, I shall fully concur to all other observations: great suspension, tires, and road holding, excellent braking (rear disc makes little difference, but I just like it!) great torque (for a 150cc) and really smooth engine, perfect gear shift, good comfort (although, after some three, four hours ride: ouch my butt!) and excellent front fairing (of the Fazer). Only negative point so far would be that, after a ride under heavy rain, there is water absolutely everywhere, under the seat particularly, where there is a lot of electrics and...the air intake! I shall definitely look for the rear mud-guard with "extensions" as seen in a previous post, or have it modified: spare parts here is double zero!

So long so good anyway! Bike has now 1,300 km, I did a first oil change (Castrol Power 1) and changed filter at 700 km and then again at 1,200, with Motul 3100 Gold "technosynthese" (also called "semi synthetic") this time. Sorry folks, but that is perfectly suitable after 1,200km, and the engine will continue polishing it's running-in. Shall change again at 3,000 km, with then with Motul 300v 100% synthese as the running-in will be absolutely complete. Now, I dare already giving it occasional short bursts of Wide Open Throttle (WOT) revving up to 7,000/ 7,500 rpm, and the acceleration is really good in second and third, even in fourth, and I have (exceptionally) shifted into fifth at 90 kmh, and the power is still good.....but I could not go any faster than immediately reached 95 just because there are not many stretches of road here where you can speed up! Also still running in, and any prolonged WOT would be detrimental to the engine. I feel, however, that the bike just wants to go ahead, but don't know to how fast yet.

Got a friend here who just bought a Honda Dazzler 150....waiting for both of us having finished running in, and it might be an interesting comparison: the Dazzler is supposed to be a bit faster...I doubt it will follow me on corners!

Cheers to all!

Luke

was the gf the motivation for the ride or was the ride the motivation to see the gf ? .

P.S : Guys decided to change my engine oil just for peace of mind , Shifting to Motul 300v factory line 15w50 , Got 2L for 800rs each ... MRP was 895rs and the oil filter for 35 bucks ... gonna change it now

EDIT : Changed oil and the level was about 850ml from the initial 1L that was put in and the 150ml drop caused the dipstick to show minimum ... interesting ... Changed oil and this time changed filter also as it was about 6K kms old . hence needed about 1.1L of oil .

Motul 300V Factory Line 4T 15W50

Hey ppl

m new here but my bike isnt.....shez done 28000+ km and few days back i changed the oil from Power 1 to Motul 300 V Factory Line 4T 15W50 and the bike is now completely vibration free.

Initially i had seen that after i changed ma Stock air filter to retro fit sponge type Air-Filter the bike would be smooth till 70 but beyond that slight vibrations would set in.....yest when the roads were empty i decided to push n was surprised to see 110 (the top speed) on the clock with no vibrations.

So i would highly recommend this particular oil from Motul.

@lucky luke
welcome to the thread and xbhp
i'd like to see the pic of your bike
hey is castrol power 1 mineral or full synth
we dont put semi synth or full synth till the bike has at least covered 3-4k
for a better engine open up we all put mineral oil im at 4k at still on mineral and will be on mineral for a looooong time
and 230000 indian rupees for a fazer
still how much does the bike run on a liter of petrol



@ all
during oil change we pour 1L of oil and after running 1-1.5k kms why does the quantity of oil decrease what actually happens to the missing quantity i cannot understand that

is there any problem storeing oil in than can and using little quantity ocassionally for topups will the oil go bad aftr a month

Thanks Sunjay Kunar (which one is the family/ given name: the first or the last one?) for the welcome

I shall post pics of the bike in its new color scheme a.s.a.p.

Castrol Power1 is fully mineral.

About this mineral/ synthetic oil question: one main difference is in the film, that is more thyxotropic (= "adhering") with synthetic (hence not dripping when engine is stopped, although actually flowing easier), and immediately lubricating when engine starts. Very good for cold starts. The film is also more difficult to break (mills will simply not cut through the metal with fully synthetic oil), and have lower friction (= less heat, because of their large molecules acting as roller bearing (this is not physically entirely correct), but one has to bear in mind that the film in an engine must NEVER be broken, which would mean catastrophic direct metal to metal contact. What slowly grinds the surfaces during the running-in are the tiny particles of metal, so small that they can break the film, and work as abrasives. The oil itself cannot do any polishing. However, the larger molecule size of synthetic oils (di-esters) cannot carry a large quantity of abrasive particles, and will take too long to do a good polishing. It is then highly preferable to use mineral oils.

Depending on the engine (the bigger, the longer time it takes), but as well on the stroke (longer stroke= less running-in), and the use during that period (city driving= less distance, because what matters if the number of revolutions the engine has done: more in low gear than in top gear), the running-in time varies greatly.
Generally speaking: small bike is OK for 100% Synth. after 2 to 3k km, big ones >5k. After the first running in, half Synth. (in fact: 30% max) is OK at some 1k/ 1.5k km.

Earlier, we had only mineral oil, and they worked all right! Still to be used on old engines. 100% Syn. mosltly keeps the engine cooler, last longer, but only gives a little performance improvement. Synth. oil is basically designed for hard use: high temperatures, immediate power on cold start, high loads during long periods, etc....

"Still, how much does the bike runs on a liter of petrol" you ask? I think you're nagging me

i normally visit my gf every second weekend or so.

this time she didnt have a problem in my coming on bike so i thought why not?? thats it...

Did you also open the oil filter compartment (and, normally, change the filter) when changing oil? If so, it is not one liter but 1.2l. that you have to put in the sump. If you have one liter only, as soon as you start, the pump will fill-up the filter compartment, and your oil gauge will read low oil level in the sump.

Yes it is safe to keep oil after opening the can, and this for long time....(provided it's been closed again J.
After a really long time it will start making a film, get oxidized (if mineral), and decompose. Throw away then.