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Originally posted by Sunjay Kumar
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As you can see,the bike is filthy..sorry about that
The SVC guy told me that it protects much better than any other type of guard and proceeded to knock down the test ride Fz that was fitted with it
and showed me that it was not scratched.
Originally posted by RAK
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Thats a big list. Usually when we have a fall we normal break only one side of the fairing. How did you break both side of your fairings?
Originally posted by Lucky Luke
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Thanks Sunjay Kunar (which one is the family/ given name: the first or the last one?) for the welcome 
I shall post pics of the bike in its new color scheme a.s.a.p.
Castrol Power1 is fully mineral.
About this mineral/ synthetic oil question: one main difference is in the film, that is more thyxotropic (= "adhering") with synthetic (hence not dripping when engine is stopped, although actually flowing easier), and immediately lubricating when engine starts. Very good for cold starts. The film is also more difficult to break (mills will simply not cut through the metal with fully synthetic oil), and have lower friction (= less heat, because of their large molecules acting as roller bearing (this is not physically entirely correct), but one has to bear in mind that the film in an engine must NEVER be broken, which would mean catastrophic direct metal to metal contact. What slowly grinds the surfaces during the running-in are the tiny particles of metal, so small that they can break the film, and work as abrasives. The oil itself cannot do any polishing. However, the larger molecule size of synthetic oils (di-esters) cannot carry a large quantity of abrasive particles, and will take too long to do a good polishing. It is then highly preferable to use mineral oils.
Depending on the engine (the bigger, the longer time it takes), but as well on the stroke (longer stroke= less running-in), and the use during that period (city driving= less distance, because what matters if the number of revolutions the engine has done: more in low gear than in top gear), the running-in time varies greatly.
Generally speaking: small bike is OK for 100% Synth. after 2 to 3k km, big ones >5k. After the first running in, half Synth. (in fact: 30% max) is OK at some 1k/ 1.5k km.
Earlier, we had only mineral oil, and they worked all right! Still to be used on old engines. 100% Syn. mosltly keeps the engine cooler, last longer, but only gives a little performance improvement. Synth. oil is basically designed for hard use: high temperatures, immediate power on cold start, high loads during long periods, etc....
"Still, how much does the bike runs on a liter of petrol" you ask? I think you're nagging me
I shall post pics of the bike in its new color scheme a.s.a.p.
Castrol Power1 is fully mineral.
About this mineral/ synthetic oil question: one main difference is in the film, that is more thyxotropic (= "adhering") with synthetic (hence not dripping when engine is stopped, although actually flowing easier), and immediately lubricating when engine starts. Very good for cold starts. The film is also more difficult to break (mills will simply not cut through the metal with fully synthetic oil), and have lower friction (= less heat, because of their large molecules acting as roller bearing (this is not physically entirely correct), but one has to bear in mind that the film in an engine must NEVER be broken, which would mean catastrophic direct metal to metal contact. What slowly grinds the surfaces during the running-in are the tiny particles of metal, so small that they can break the film, and work as abrasives. The oil itself cannot do any polishing. However, the larger molecule size of synthetic oils (di-esters) cannot carry a large quantity of abrasive particles, and will take too long to do a good polishing. It is then highly preferable to use mineral oils.
Depending on the engine (the bigger, the longer time it takes), but as well on the stroke (longer stroke= less running-in), and the use during that period (city driving= less distance, because what matters if the number of revolutions the engine has done: more in low gear than in top gear), the running-in time varies greatly.
Generally speaking: small bike is OK for 100% Synth. after 2 to 3k km, big ones >5k. After the first running in, half Synth. (in fact: 30% max) is OK at some 1k/ 1.5k km.
Earlier, we had only mineral oil, and they worked all right! Still to be used on old engines. 100% Syn. mosltly keeps the engine cooler, last longer, but only gives a little performance improvement. Synth. oil is basically designed for hard use: high temperatures, immediate power on cold start, high loads during long periods, etc....
"Still, how much does the bike runs on a liter of petrol" you ask? I think you're nagging me
And 2.3 lakhs is probably more than the expected price of Fazer 250 here!(If it ever does release)Guys I checked the balance of the bike by going to an empty road and leaving the handlebars and the bike always tended to go left..does this mean that the SVC people have not fixed the fork bend??They were telling me that I needed to change the handlebar but I saw no bend on it..distance from tank was the same from both sides..so I decided not to change the handlebar..could that be causing the tilt towards left??Before the bend was "removed" I used to hear a tak sound and feel something clenching(can't explain)from the fork every time I went over a speedbreaker or if there were any undulations on the road..now the tak sound has reduced a lot but is still there and the "clenching" feeling has gone..so not sure what has been done by them.Any help would be appreciated,thanks
and engine got witched off automatically when i switched off/on my ignition everything was dead self start doesn't work 
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