Long story. History of oil burning. My Fazer refused to take the heavy belting . After having to change oil every 1000 km I decided to get it completely redone

Blockpiston, valves, rockers, etc + brake fluid + fork oil plus a few other things.. total cost 8100. (2600 for labor)

yours is a 2011 fazer... that means it should be still under warranty.....

how come you are not forcing yamaha ro pay for the damages??

FZ-X Coughing and solution!!

Hi All,

yesterday, my FZ-X suddenly started coughing a bit and at low revs/low speeds sometimes refused to accept the throttle input given from my end. All the signs were more of less leading to carb getting clogged or the fuel tank showing signs of build up of gunk deposition after over a period of almost 2 years of ownership. So i immediately landed up at Bp petrol pump and gave her approximately 4 ltrs of Speed 97 petrol. Started her up and let her idle for 2 mins and then started belting her; on every gear shifting at 9000 rpm and then decelerate and then again solid amount of thrashing for about 5 kms. I know it is bit of an un-orthodox method but it did work for me. Now my FZ-x is back being happy and super responsive.


I am very happy with Motul FS 15W 50 oil. The engine vibrations have gone down even more since my 2nd fill up of servicing with the same oil. I am regularly monitoring the oil level every week and the oil level has not gone down. Will keep you all posted as the kms start climbing up with the 2nd round of 5000 kms interval.



Cheers,

Warranty is with T&C buddy...The do not warrant a 2 hour nonstop drag and more...

you were drag racing for more than 2 hours??? naice....

@ shv, am using the same oil post running in. The gear shifts are butter smooth. The only freaky part is the color



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ordering the joel FFE tomorrow.
as per Joel,the new exhausts are " better build and are more in blend with the fitments."

and he ships it real quick

No drag racing.. I had done a Pune Mumbai Solo ride for a college reunion.. NH4 was a new route for me and I missed a cooling stop. Unknown roads can do that to you :P. So I burnt my oil and then dragged back the next day to Pune...
350 KM's of engine screwing.. I now have become more wiser and learnt more about my bike..
Now I ride more sanely, Plan my breaks irrespective of finding a place to rest my back and get a cuppa...

I am not too sure it has anything to do with cooling stoppage... i feel rather you might have had been keeping her at 8500 and above close to the red line for more than 10-20 mins at a stretch which resulted the mechanical failure of the parts. I have done 250-500 kms non-stop regularly since, last year out of my crazy cravings for long distance ride and so far haven't had any issues arising out due to no stopping for letting the engine cool.

Anyways be nice to her keep the speeds to 85 - 90 and the rev counter below 8000 rpm.. in between you can throttle her hard but donot keep her on the redline for too long. If you want higher speeds then front sprocket mod to 15T will help keeping the revs under check and at the same time keep the higher nos on the speedo for a longer duration.


Cheers,

Very much true... The constant thrashing killed it and no matter how sanely I rode it later it just didn't help

^^ I didn't know about this max 10-20 minutes red-lining thing. I'm planning to do a saddlesore from Kolkata to Faridabad after a few months. What kind of engine oil (FS,SS or another extra container of oil??) would u suggest and what should be the max constant speed I can keep so as to avoid screwing up my engine?
I have completed 2100km on my ride. Can I change to SS now?Which grade?

From experience, Fazer can do 95kmph constant at around 7500 rpm. Please do take cooling breaks that also act as butt breaks. Both the bike as well as you need it.

PS: the 2011 Fazer/fz16/fzs share their engine with sz. Hence cannot take serious belting like the first version could. Overheating melts the stem seals of the valves and cause oil burning issue. And on a long ride its a vicious cycle, less oil damages the cylinder and piston rings and causes more oil burn and then you end up having burnt clutch plates too...

SZ has the same engine as FZ...not the other way round. Yeah,u might say that quality has detoriated.Any advice about the kind of oil to use?

Hi,

If you keep your ride's throttle pinned to redline for extremly long distances, expect the engine failures at an early stage. Its like forcing someone on a treadmill doing full speed run 21 kmph beyond 30 mins, one will show fatigue right? similarly too much redlining for long distances will result metal fatigue. Hence, it is advisable to keep her under the power band of 7500-8000 rpm. In between you can belt her close to redline .

You can change your oil either to SS or FS oil. I would recommend to change the oil filter along with the oil change, will set you back by only 50 bucks. I am a total advocate of Motul Products and would recommend Motul FS 300V 15W 50. However, 2 riders have complained of their respective engines not liking the taste of the FS oil. I have not seen any dip in performance or engine gobbling up oil. It lasts for about 5000+kms. I would say fill it up, do your usual riding in and around the city, check the oil level. If you don't see any dip in the level then you are good to go.


Cheers,

my opinion of the above discussion is that fz is NOT a free revving machine...... dont even try to make it one..... it hates being redlined in any gear..... wont touch redline in fifth and if by any chance you try it for a long time in any other be sure you are about to get a busted engine.....

P.S: doing a SS run on fz is way too dangerous for the bike for the above mentioned reason.... i know some people have already done it and all but keeping the bike constantly @ speeds of 95-100kmph for hours is going to take a toll on the bike....

i was also planning a SS on my fz but after my calculation i decided against it because of the following reason....

SS1600 almost 1700km in 24 hours of this 1700 kms taking into account an average of 25kmpl and 15 liters of fuel approximately amount of fuel required is around 70 liters that would mean a minimum of 5 fuel breaks after every 375kms. and after almost 400 kms one might take at least 35-45 minutes of break for the butt for the body for the bike etc. that means 35*5 = 175 minutes lost for normal breaks if you take out these 3 hours you will be left with 21 hours for 1700 km not including any traffic jams while crossing cities, railway crossings etc. that bboils down to 81kmph of average speed which would mean cutting pretty close to redline all the time you see a stretch of road.....

so whoever is trying an SS1600 on fz please make sure to do your homework properly and if possible do a dry run before the attempt....