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Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

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  • Originally posted by rylan View Post
    Arguably the fastest fz built.

    Stats:

    0 to 60 in 3 seconds
    0 to 100 in 9 seconds
    Top whack of 135 km/h

    It hits the limit pretty darn fast and is right there with no loss in performance whatsover. i have no more words. Phew!!!


    Ps: A complete update on the latest mods will be up soon in my thread, busy riding my rocket

    Race Concepts FZ - top speed run - YouTube
    That is one outrageously quick FZ ...


    P.S: My bike turns THREE today ! and me twenty three .... Been an amazing ride thus far , even though it's still stock ... will be moving to a mutant R15 soon , so will be the last b'day for the bike with me .
    People ask me , why are you cribbing about the BHP ? to them I say "MORE is never ENOUGH" xbhp.com

    FZ16 headlight assembly with projector and angel eye for sale .

    My first ever trip log ... http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...gh-clouds.html

    Comment


    • Originally posted by rylan View Post
      Arguably the fastest fz built.

      Stats:

      0 to 60 in 3 seconds
      0 to 100 in 9 seconds
      Top whack of 135 km/h

      It hits the limit pretty darn fast and is right there with no loss in performance whatsover. i have no more words. Phew!!!


      Ps: A complete update on the latest mods will be up soon in my thread, busy riding my rocket

      Race Concepts FZ - top speed run - YouTube




      Man its darn fast man.....
      on Stock it took me light years to hit that speed...ROFL

      In talks with joel...will join the club soon....

      I would also add a 15T sprocket to that.....

      would be more fun at the topend aswell....
      DUKE390 | MotoGP | 46 | KTM

      Rides - Lost count
      Kms Covered so far 73,000 & Sold ( Yamaha Fazer153)
      Fuel Spent worth NoIdea/- :P - 1 Broken Collar Bone - Time spent - Priceless - Friends made - Forever


      NomaHawk Tourers on FB
      Rohan Gholam on FB

      Comment


      • My fz has done 12K km, but since last month the front tire is losing air in 3 to 4 days. Checked it multiple puncture walas and none found any leak. I think its too early to change my front tire... is there anything I must be looking at?
        In case I have to change the tire, is it okay to go with a new stock or any other brand? Searched the forum, not many suggestions regarding the front tire... Does the wheel frame also be changed?
        Regular use, not much of offroading. Please suggest.
        _____________________________________________

        Rules are only for little good people... ;)

        Comment


        • If the alloys are the issue then you can claim it, a friend of mine owning an FZ did.
          Motorcycling Experience:
          2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
          2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
          2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
          2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
          2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
          2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

          The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
          Adios Comrades!
          A.P. 2018

          Comment


          • Guys another proud owner of FZ

            One reason for buying FZ was because of the 11 lakhs thread replies which is highest among all bikes in ownership experiences section. Guys please do guide me all the way to the future.

            The bike is brilliant both in looks and also performance. Just got the babe delivered this afternoon and already done 40 kms. I'm riding according to manual instruction (<4500 rpm and also fluctuate the speed). Tell you guys it's very difficult to control the speed to 40-45 km/hr range because if you don't concentrate on it, you never now you reach 60 in no time. But I'm controlling to the end and keeping the speed 40-47 and also rpm @4000.

            Ok guys wanna ask about first service, 1000 km or 1 month, I don't know how much I will ride in these 30 days because my running is only 15 km per day, so it would be 400-450 kms to the most this month. So what these guys do, will they change the oil and filter or should we force them to change the engine oil and filter, totally confused, please guide.


            And also I'm worried about the great fraud done by these service guys, Heard that they change new parts of our bike with old ones to earn extra money during our free service. Is it right? if it's right what can we do to marks important parts of our bike. Any ideas, what would be the parts which we can mark or note down. I have heard they change the whole carburettor, silencer and the mono shock too with the old ones. Really totally worried. Is that true.
            please guide me

            Till then with great humility I post the pics of my bike

            Thanks
            Last edited by jonahmano; 06-16-2012, 01:16 AM.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by jonahmano View Post
              One reason for buying FZ was because of the 11 lakhs thread replies which is highest among all bikes in ownership experiences section. Guys please do guide me all the way to the future.

              The bike is brilliant both in looks and also performance. Just got the babe delivered this afternoon and already done 40 kms. I'm riding according to manual instruction (<4500 rpm and also fluctuate the speed). Tell you guys it's very difficult to control the speed to 40-45 km/hr range because if you don't concentrate on it, you never now you reach 60 in no time. But I'm controlling to the end and keeping the speed 40-47 and also rpm @4000.

              Ok guys wanna ask about first service, 1000 km or 1 month, I don't know how much I will ride in these 30 days because my running is only 15 km per day, so it would be 400-450 kms to the most this month. So what these guys do, will they change the oil and filter or should we force them to change the engine oil and filter, totally confused, please guide.


              And also I'm worried about the great fraud done by these service guys, Heard that they change new parts of our bike with old ones to earn extra money during our free service. Is it right? if it's right what can we do to marks important parts of our bike. Any ideas, what would be the parts which we can mark or note down. I have heard they change the whole carburettor, silencer and the mono shock too with the old ones. Really totally worried. Is that true.
              please guide me

              Till then with great humility I post the pics of my bike

              Thanks
              Hi,

              at 4000/4500 rpm, you will be hitting 60+ kmph on 5th gear. This run-in period is the most crucial period for your ride's engine to set in. Make sure you modulate the throttle, donot ride her at a consistent 4000 rpm, shift gears constantly which will help in the break-in process better. Read the manual provided along with your ride and follow it to the T... If you keep her happy and service her on time, she will return you the favour by being rev happy and being eager on corners all the time. Both tires and the Brakes will also need a run- in period where they slowly start setting in as the kms pile up on your ODO.. so you may experience loss of braking bite and grip when attempting to do extreme leaning on the corners in the 1st few hundred kms.. May i suggest being gentle for sometime?.. that way you'll also have the time to understand the dynamics and potential of your ride. after sometime the brake bite will be very good so will the grip of the tires.

              When in bone stock condition, my ride gave me a mileage anywhere between 39-47 kmpl from hard core thrashing to moderate riding. Post free flow exhaust mod the FE has been consistently 45+ kmpl.

              To ensure that your warranty remains safe you should go for the 1st service within the specified period/due date mentioned on your service manual. Do make sure that you take a prior appointment from your service centre before you go in. Do inquire if they have the oil filter and engine oil of recommended grade. Try and use Motul mineral oil 4t 3000 20W 40. It lasts around 2,500- 3000 kms based on your riding habits and one of the best mineral oils i have come across. Make sure that you complete the run-in regardless of the 1st servicing. In a way it is actually a good thing if you are replacing the oil within the 1st 500 kms as you will see a lot of shiny particles in the drained oil which is basically the rubbed out metal parts due to engine mating to its correct tolerance. Once you've completed 1000 kms of run-in, go for a second oil change along with replacing the oil filter. Oh, and one more thing, tell the svc mechanic to grease the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or grease. The stock AMCO/MINDA battery has the tendency to eat away the bolt connecting to the wire terminals of the bike when exposed to the natural elements. That was the 1st glitch that i had experienced, where my ride just simply shut down post 1st service and there was no power supplied to crank up the engine. The troubleshooting finally led to the battery being the culprit. So if you keep the terminals greased.. this problem will never crop up!!

              Please do remember: The 1st 6 services are free by nature which means that the SVC cannot charge you labour charges. But they will charge you for the consumables i.e. engine oil, oil filter etc. I have seen a lot of new customers arguing with the SVC guys for the same thing thinking that everything is free during this period!!!

              I am an old school guy, so i don't leave my bike out of sight when the work is going on.. over the years have built up a good rapport with the svc team so they let me stick around when my ride is getting serviced.. don't forget to tip the mechanic who has worked on your ride... it will ensure that the next time your ride is given the first priority . Luckily the SVC Centre Kamla Yamaha here in Mumbai is good and professional in nature.. i haven't ever witnessed any sort of fraudulent activities from their end.

              FZ is an absolute fun on the corners and is a good street machine with its low end torque... you will have a lot of fun..

              Hope this was helpful.

              Cheers,
              Last edited by shv18; 06-16-2012, 02:39 AM.
              A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

              Comment


              • Originally posted by shv18 View Post

                I am an old school guy, so i don't leave my bike out of sight when the work is going on..
                What do you mean? You stay near your bike when the service is going on? Will they allow you? If yes, how long should you stay to finish your service.

                Thanks for you valuable feed back......

                @4000 rpm on 5th gear will surely go past 60 as you mentioned, but I haven't gone past 48 km/hr and also when the manual says to keep 4k-4.5k rpm, I assume that when shifting gears you must not go rev your babe to the above said rpm limit. Is that true? And also I'm varying speeds from 40-45 km/hr now and then during the ride by changing gears 5-4 and back 4-5 to give the variations as you said. Is that ok.

                And about engine oil, you were saying about motul... which will last for 3k kms but if I'm changing the oil at 500 km ODO then I should again change oil at 1000 km so should I opt for motul for the first 1000 kms, confused.

                Anyways thanks for guiding

                Comment


                • Originally posted by jonahmano View Post
                  What do you mean? You stay near your bike when the service is going on? Will they allow you? If yes, how long should you stay to finish your service.
                  Well, I have got my ways of convincing them. I don't know where are you based and how your regional svc would behave so can't comment on that.

                  Thanks for you valuable feed back......

                  @4000 rpm on 5th gear will surely go past 60 as you mentioned, but I haven't gone past 48 km/hr and also when the manual says to keep 4k-4.5k rpm, I assume that when shifting gears you must not go rev your babe to the above said rpm limit. Is that true? And also I'm varying speeds from 40-45 km/hr now and then during the ride by changing gears 5-4 and back 4-5 to give the variations as you said. Is that ok.
                  The manual speaks for itself. A lot of people may suggest different techniques of break- in but I would say follow what the company has recommended. Moderately shift gears that's all.. It will help the gears to mate with the rest of the parts.

                  And about engine oil, you were saying about motul... which will last for 3k kms but if I'm changing the oil at 500 km ODO then I should again change oil at 1000 km so should I opt for motul for the first 1000 kms, confused.

                  The price of Motul mineral oil is same as Yamalube, so need not worry.

                  Anyways thanks for guiding
                  All answers above in bold.


                  Cheers
                  A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

                  Comment


                  • upgrades for next week..

                    joel FFE
                    Motul 5100
                    re-cushioning seats
                    Our bikes can go from 0 - Stupid in less than "I wonder if this will be a good idea"

                    Comment


                    • engine cover and crash guard

                      Hi shiv

                      just called the svc guys about crash guard and also engine cover (from bottom).

                      They said that crash guard will cost around 550 rs and will be available only next week and about the engine cover, they said there is no engine cover for fz'

                      Do we get engine cover in the market, is it necessary? please help

                      And how about crash guard, is it costly? Should I wait for a week or buy in the market?

                      Thanks

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by jonahmano View Post
                        @4000 rpm on 5th gear will surely go past 60 as you mentioned, but I haven't gone past 48 km/hr and also when the manual says to keep 4k-4.5k rpm, I assume that when shifting gears you must not go rev your babe to the above said rpm limit. Is that true? And also I'm varying speeds from 40-45 km/hr now and then during the ride by changing gears 5-4 and back 4-5 to give the variations as you said. Is that ok.
                        I was redlining my bike after 30kms on the new engine
                        First 20kms was nice n easy. 3/4 throttles, down through the gears and back up, varying speeds, throttle positions etc.
                        After that and everything was playing well together (meaning no funny engine sounds, vibrations, rattles etc) time to give it full throttle, up through the gears.
                        Changed oil and filter at 100kms. (new engine was run in on full 100% synth motul 10w-40)

                        This run in is not recommended unless you know what you are doing and are aware of funny sounds, vibrations out of the norm (kind of like saying you are "in tune" with the bike.)


                        I love that color FZS mate, Its f#@kn SEXY!!!!!
                        2013 Ducati M795 with a few mods in here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/superbik...95-owners.html
                        Want to talk about modding your FZ? http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tech-talk.html
                        My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/FZSMik/videos

                        Comment


                        • Guys another problem pls help

                          Didn't check the PDI at the time of delivery and just noticed that back tail light is simply blinking when the ignition is on and it is not going off. There is no variation when both brakes are applied. One of my friend says that it might be the problem of break switch either front or back. When I checked the back break it is very loose, even the metal hook connected to break switch and the break lever is loose. Guys any idea?

                          Should I show to SVC guys, tired of these people with their half done works

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by jonahmano View Post
                            Didn't check the PDI at the time of delivery and just noticed that back tail light is simply blinking when the ignition is on and it is not going off. There is no variation when both brakes are applied. One of my friend says that it might be the problem of break switch either front or back. When I checked the back break it is very loose, even the metal hook connected to break switch and the break lever is loose. Guys any idea?

                            Should I show to SVC guys, tired of these people with their half done works
                            Get it adjusted at SVC or do it yourself. Common problem in brand new machines. They might have missed it at PDI.
                            #RetiredRider
                            #KeyboardWarrior

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by jonahmano View Post
                              Didn't check the PDI at the time of delivery and just noticed that back tail light is simply blinking when the ignition is on and it is not going off. There is no variation when both brakes are applied. One of my friend says that it might be the problem of break switch either front or back. When I checked the back break it is very loose, even the metal hook connected to break switch and the break lever is loose. Guys any idea?

                              Should I show to SVC guys, tired of these people with their half done works
                              Try to work out what brake is causing the light to blink, Then do the adjustments from there.
                              As for the loose rear brake sensor try tightening it by twisting it.
                              If the rear brake is not activating then tighten the nut on the end of the rod.
                              2013 Ducati M795 with a few mods in here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/superbik...95-owners.html
                              Want to talk about modding your FZ? http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tech-talk.html
                              My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/FZSMik/videos

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Mad Mik View Post
                                I was redlining my bike after 30kms on the new engine
                                First 20kms was nice n easy. 3/4 throttles, down through the gears and back up, varying speeds, throttle positions etc.
                                After that and everything was playing well together
                                If it resulted in perfect breakin and we can master the art, yamaha engineers would have done that and no breakin would have been recommended(it would cost them just a litre of petrol and some 20 odd minutes to do that).. Take the bike from showroom and participate in drags to the way home.. I would have loved to buy a bike which doesnt come with engine breakin procedure.

                                But it doesnt happen that easy.. Engine breakin generates enormous heat and doing it perfectly in a short span is very difficult. It would require a lot of expertise and yamaha guys still may be mastering those skills.. Or may be they have dropped the idea after their supervisors instructed them to rebuild the engines they damaged.

                                I am not debating that your engine was perfectly set in. It may well have. But, doing it consistently is debatable and If its possible, yamaha and other manufacturers would have done that at their factory, responsibly and flawlessly.

                                Yamaha engines continue to set in till 3000 kms.
                                The first oil change is 1000 kms or a month. Second oil change is next 2000 kms and then you are free to use the oils for 3000 kms every oil change.

                                I agree with your synthetic statement.. You can put in a synthetic and breakin your engine.. But who would throw the free oil that came with the bike and put in a fs and again throw it in just a thousand kms.. Not me.
                                Last edited by muztariq; 06-17-2012, 02:43 AM.

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