Fuel Indicator and Reserve Issue

I saw the fuel indicator blinking but still it didn't get into reserve mode. I'm riding the bike in 'on' position. Guys is it normal? If the fuel indicator blinks before it gets reserved then what's the use of that blinking. If I'm not mistaken then yamaha guys have done a blunder. Taking we indians into account, they should have set the fuel indicator blinking when the vehicle gets into reserve mode.

Most of the people check their mileage and do the refilling from reserve to reserve mode. I don't understand how does the fuel indicator help us when its blinking and the vehicle is running still on Fuel knob 'On' position!

Thanks to all experienced guys for your valuable feedback.

I'm taking my bike to my dear friend and he's expert in FZ-16. He has complete service manual and he will also check my bike overall to see I have got the best machine.

More updates coming up, so for breaking you heads, this will go for somedays till I know something about this bike which is new to me.

Hi John,

I understand your excitement with your bike. Please do note a lot of these questions have already been answered in this thread. A simple google search will provide you all that you would like to know. Anyways, no need to be panicked about the Fuel reserve indicator. The sensor doesnot provide the fuel level indication optimally when hitting close to reserve. It is something you'll have to live with. Fz's reserve mode is around 1.5 ltrs.

All the minute things you are noticing with your bike can be taken care of during the 1st servicing which I presume is barely 20-25 days from now. Or else you can visit a local mechanic and sort out the brake light issue.

I'd say concentrate on finishing your run- in properly first then we all can help you with any trouble shooting which may crop up over a period of your ownerhip of the FZ.
You can buy the leg guard from the SVC itself. There are other manufacturers available in the market but I have not tried out so can't comment. FZ doesnot have engine guard as an accessory. It is not needed at all unless you are going for looks. You can check with the bike accessory shops. They might stock it.

Cheers,

Perhaps I should explain,
My engine is not the yamaha factory one anymore. My original engine had done around 13XX kms before I replaced it. Nothing wrong with it by the way, I had been riding it hard too from the time I bought it new. Just need more power.

Take a look at exotic cars and how they dyno the engines before they install them into the cars chassis, Also look at some motobike manufacturers (eu, jp, usa) and don't tell me that they don't go redlining their engines too when testing them. You may say sure, but these are hand built engines, each part is machined, measured etc. So is my current engine. It took over 1 week of measuring, mockups, teardowns, mockup, cranking engine over, teardown, adjust clearances until it was suitable for a final assembly. This was only 1 cyl. (Usually I'm used to 6 or more cyl's)

I understand engines make heat, As you know Heat is Power, How much more heat when running in engines?
Not that much more, if any.

The only parts on a motobike cylinder (Not talking about the head) that have "friction/ metal on metal" are the rings (and the piston gudgeon pin but lets leave that out for now)

The big end has roller bearings, the crank has ball bearings.
There are no "shell" bearings sitting on a thin film of oil pumped from a oil pump through the crank.
What this tells me is that the rings rubbing against a hardened liner bore will be a partial source of heat however nothing will get as hot as the combustion chamber itself, and the piston crown. Oil splashing up onto the bore will lubricate and clean the surface, also the oil splashing up under the piston will help to cool it. (I had oil squirters on my supra engine block that directly squirted oil under the pistons)
There will always be friction from the rings to the bore, Otherwise how else will they seal against the combustion pressures?

The job of the oil is not only to lubricate the internals and reduce friction but to also cool the engine, From the inside out, Whereas if you have a liquid cooled engine, The coolant cools from the outside in. Not applicable to this aircooled engine. A lot of people forget about this secondary purpose of the oil. My mechanic is developing oil cooler kits for the FZ. He has already developed and sold a lot of kits for other "scooter/bikes" here in Vietnam.

Choosing the correct oil with the correct properties will go a long way in
preventing premature wear and tear providing of course you change it often and change the filter too, However in my case, I rebuild engines often as I'm after HP, not mileage.

I've gone with a 200cc/66mm kit with custom big valve head.
66mm RRGS forged piston with valve reliefs machined to suit the bigger valves, new fiber cage crank bearings, big valve head with custom valve train (std cam still), port and polish, decompress combustion chamber down to 10.5:1, kehin carb (deburred, cylindrical slide, double springs to close the throttle), K&N pod filter, bored intake tube, custom exh header, carbon yoshimura TRC muffler. Only thing left from my old engine is the conrod down.
Those parts don't need to be "run in" as they are mealy shafts rotating around ball bearings.
I expect engine life to be around 10-15k, possibly shorter depending on how hard I push the engine.

I let the bike idle for around 1min @1-1500 rpmwhen I first start up (need to let the forged piston expand) and ride low rpm for a few kms until its warmed up. Having said that the speed limits in Ho Chi Minh City are 40kph, and at any one time you will be sharing the road with hundreds of others so you won't be riding fast, unless you hit the highway

@shv18

Thanks man,

the breaklight issue is solved, it was a DIY thing done by my dear friend. The switch was not working properly so he removed it and lubricated it with some spray and liquid and now it's working fine.

He also showed me how to remove important body parts of the bike like battery compartment, and check front discbreak pad and rear drum break wearout indicator, chain measurement, front and back breaklight setting, and also important parts we need to mark before sending for first service so that we don't lose our brand new ones with old ones (vehicle parts replacement scam) and many more.

He also saw my babe's frame alignment by measuring the lengths of both right hand corner and left hand corner of the handle to to bike's tail tip. And also both shockers equal width (on the top nuts) and also front wheel and rear wheel alignment. (looking from far keeping the bike in centre stand)

Everything is fine and I am very happy, most of my doubts are solved.

I think I will post further after first service unless there is an urgency

Thank You

hiie friends me want to know main jet size and pilot jet size for KN air filter n stock jet info too

having issues with changing gears.
every time i reach a halt,its hard to shift to 1st or 2nd gear from neutral.
its as if though the gear slips.
the only way is to accelerate a bit and you hear a clicking sound and then shift to desired gear.

its been there for long and i also had changed the oil.
the bike has run just 4.5k

+1 But it happens sometimes only for me. Is this normal?

it happens with me to but when me oil the chain this shifting noise have gone

Check the clutch cable to lever setting and also check the level of the engine oil. Which engine oil did you use btw? Did you also change the oil filter along with the servicing?

I had the same issue till 6000 kms... After that the problem resolved by itself. I guess in my case the parts mated to the correct tolerances.

Cheers,

i changed to motul 5100 15W50 along with filter change.

how do you check the clutch cable settings.

K&N

@ Shv18 & rkakkar Sir


Ny idea about the new K&N stock filters for FZ...??

has ny 1 else tried...??

Shv18 dou use your FFE with K&N or Stock filter.?

Thanks & Regards,

hi ,


Congrats for doing and exhibiting such a great work ...!!

I do own FZ-16 , I have clocked 25K and I even plan to undergo such maintainence.......but I don`t know what are cush pads and conesets ...can u please throw some light ???

Front brake pad change

Hi Guys,
The front brake these days has lost the bite which it had previously. The ODO reading on the bike is 15500km. In the last service the mechanic said no need to change as they are still good, but i miss the bite which it had, it's now kind of sponge. So any suggestion whether i need to change the pads or just the brake oil change?

i am using stock filter with the FFE so don't have to go for rejetting of the carb. Race Concept's FFE as stage 1 installation doesnot require rejetting. I don't have much of an idea for the same probably Abhimanyu31 or RanjithMN can help you out with the jet sizing for the same.

Just to give you a hint of what are these components, below are the images:

1) Coneset.
2) Coneset on the steering column.
3) Rubber Cush Pads.
4) Cush pads in the rear drum.

Please Note: these are just the images from the internet not the actual parts for FZ. i don't have images for the rubber dampers for swing arm.

Bleed the old brake oil and replace it with the new DOT 4 brake oil.


Cheers,

oh ...well thanks a lot .....really i understood !!