Battery issues!

Need your help on this as the SVC too can't figure out what's wrong :P

Almost every morning (or after a long period (8 hours+) of no riding), my battery seems to die! The self starter gives a sound as if its on its last breath and my display goes off whenever I crank the starter. I have to give a "dhakka" start. However, once I'm riding even for like 5 minutes and then switch off the bike, I'm able to start it with the self starter and it behaves as if nothing went wrong! And it behaves like this for the rest of the day or until the next 8 hour+ period of no riding.

I told the SVC this problem and they tested the battery and said things are OK. Any ideas?

Its the stock battery. I have put Philips 60/55W bulb for the headlight. No other mod. Bike is 15 months old with 13K kms under its belt.

Need help!

Guys any suggestion please

Looks like the battery is kaput ... It's discharging at idle and hence has no juice during start up and then gets charged while riding ...

Relay issue , the part costs something like 80 bucks , not much of a bother unless it gives up , even then a tap on the relay box will get back up and running ... Had the same problem ...

Hey guys,
This might be a silly query but IL ask it anyway.
Today,I got my bike washed,then tried to switch on the bike
A black smoke keeps coming out of my exhaust and and the engine never revvs.I.E no response for throttle input.I tried after an hour,and same problem.
I wondering if a lot of water has entered into the exhaust which is causing this.
Will it become proper after some more time,BTW this never happened before during wash.So I am worried
And also,can this happen due to water entering the filter,as i have got the simota filters,installed from joel.

Has anyone had any issue with their Starter or Starter Clutch(one way Clutch)?

Hey, thanks for your reply. So as I understand it, the left hand side number should only worry me if I live in a cold climate?

yea thought so .. was surprised how the SVC confidently said everything is OK. can i get it checked at amaron/exide? but i worry they'll push it off to sell their own. or should i go to another mechanic?

Hi guys, Long time..
I have been busy lately & hence less riding.. Another reason for less rides in one problem that is bothering me like hell. My Lord of the streets just doesn't seem to be deserving the tiltle anymore.. In simple terms, i'm having a whole lot of 'HANDLING' issues with my FZ. The handlebar just seems too loose without adequate grip as compared to other FZ's that i rode. The bike just isn't as sweet handler as it was. It takes a lot of harculean effort to keep her stable in traffic, over bumps, slow speeds etc & the problem is doubled when i have a pillion with me.. I have done the following but less or no improvements.

1) Changed cone set - (initially the mech said looseness in handlebar is due to the fresh grease in cone set & it shall settle to normal in few 100 kms but no difference even after a 1000 kms since cone set change)

2) Tightening of the main handlebar screw by SVC guys themselves (feels as good as new for few kms & then same loose handling again )

3) Tried leaving handlebar of my bike while in motion & it goes absolute straight so no issues there..

Any suggestions to get handling back to the original setup ??

Not even that: the "left hand side" number as you call it (this has the merit of clarity ), indicates the viscosity at 0 deg.C as I said. That is why there is the letter "W"= Winter besides it. One should actually talk about "weight", or "grade". This means that, at 0 deg.C., the weight will be 10 (or 20, or 5...). That will have little significance for your engine, even at that low temperature.
In the other hand, if your engine manufacturer specifies ("right hand side" number) between 40 to 50 that means that, at 100 deg. C. a lower grade/ weight (like 30 for example) would be too fluid, running down the surfaces (that is where the "weight" thing comes in) when the engine is stopped hence no oil when just starting until the oil pump has fully lubricated the engine, and too low oil pressure meaning possible direct contact between metal pieces. No good!
A higher one (60 for example) will be imposing too much effort to the pump and eventually not circulating well enough and, there again, not lubricating properly. No good either! That is where more attention has to be paid to this "right hand side" number than to the "left hand side" one.

All this may seem mysterious since we all know that, the more the oil gets hot, the more fluid it becomes. The explanation is that the weight/ grade number is a given number that is constant in a non-multigrade oil, while its actual viscosity will vary vastly with temperature. These oils (like your cooking oil for example) will be thick and sticky when cold and very runny when hot.
For a multigrade oil, its "left hand side" number will be equivalent to that of a low grade/ weight oil at low temperature, and the "right hand side" one equivalent to that of a higher grade/ weight one at high temperature.
This means that these oils will not be excessively thick when cold, neither excessively fluid when hot.

Yes they would definitely push to sell one of their own ... Aggressive marketing is need of the day ... See if you have any local guy that can check the battery ...

Have you checked the water level on the battery ? because I recently had starting problems and found that a couple of cells were running dry ... filled up distilled water in them and been working fine since **touchwood** ..

Your second point seems to indicate that maybe the handlebar bearings are done for , I'm not sure though ...

A black smoke???
If it had anything to do with water, it would be white!
...excepted perhaps one thing: excessive water + detergent that entered through your filter. The stock filter is a well protected one, with intake under the seat, while these "performance" ones are totally exposed, and their material (steel mesh) not capable of stopping water, which the paper one does. This could be bad under heavy rain, or when driving through knee-deep water ponds (like what we have here during rainy season, and I think in India too), and also with the high pressure/ high detergent of some bike wash.
IF this may be the case, you should do an immediate oil change, but also pour a bit of oil through the spark plug hole, let it there for an hour or so, give the engine a few turns with the spark plug sill off, and then try to start with the plug back on. Since it may oil the plug and the engine not start, you may have to take it off again for cleaning.

If a lot of water had entered your exhaust, the engine would probably not start at all, or produce white smoke. The thing to do when that happens is to lift the front wheel (you need a few helpers for that) and keep the bike vertical so that the water drains our of the exhaust.

Won't it be better if he just unscrewed/opened the exhaust and clean it, rather than lifting the vehicle vertically ! but rest as you said buddy.

Lifting the vehicle will take just 5 mins....unscrewing the exhaust & put it back in place will take 1/2 hr at least...

Thanks for your replies guys..
Lucky luke,as you said,it seems a lot of water+a lot of detergent and entered the exhaust,No issue with Joel's filter.All's normal now

guys, a friend of mine insisted on changing his filter for the grunty sound. he did change it despite my(indirectly your) advice. his bike now refuses to pull over 108km/hr. is there any way to fix it? or is his engine badly damaged already(he is a fast rider)? can he upjet now? if yes, then to which size because mechanics around here have no clue about it. what jet sizes does joel recommend after his simota filter replacement?