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Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
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for that you have Joel to answer such queries.. i am no tech guru so mr. Fieroid can provide you better technical answers about how he has taken care of that...Originally posted by vishal monster yamaha View Post
cheersA quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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I for one do NOT want a high revving FZ
... I just want it for touring ... If the bike can cruise at 110kmph , i'm more than Happy
did the B'lore-chennai run keeping it 110-115kmph and it was screaming
... currently with the 15T , it hits 100 easily enough and thats about it for cruisability ... from here it feels stressed . With the 14T on the highway i could feel the engine stressed at 90 ...
People ask me , why are you cribbing about the BHP ? to them I say "MORE is never ENOUGH" xbhp.com
FZ16 headlight assembly with projector and angel eye for sale .
My first ever trip log ... http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...gh-clouds.html
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Guys i have a doubt,The stock power output is 17hp,So will the stock transmission will be able to hold the power of a 30hp? nearly double.Originally posted by shv18 View Postthe new R165 will be generating 28-29 bhp on the rear wheel and is indeed a ninja killer.
No offence to anyone.
Just my doubt.
He is killing the engine!Read the below post,it explains every thing.Originally posted by vishal monster yamaha View PostThanks man. he is in love with the sound. the bike also feels a lot more free-revving. changing to stock is a no-go. Mileage is a no-brainer now
. throttle-satisfaction is everything!
anyway
Pilot jets for low end and main jets for topend,pilot jets are very very hard to source.And about the jets. i read somewhere that there are two jets (main and pilot) which have to be upgraded, which just complicates things further
. so i guess 110 or 115 it is. how much of a hit should we expect after changing the jet??
Originally posted by UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA View Posti dont have much idea about fuel injected bikes, so cant give u a expert opinion at all, but yes the bike stalling and bike lag are the signs of a lean or a very rich mixture. It cant be rich as there has been a increase in amount of air not fuel , so its a lean mix. Its better to use the filter inside the airbox or even better would be to use the stock filter. I would like to explain this as i have been through each and every problem a free flow filter gives.
First of all by using a free flow airfilter u wont even get a increase of .5 bhp without proper tuning. It may reduce the performance if the correct mixture is not set.
Even a free flow air filter along with a bigger carb or in ur case a tuned ecu hardly gives 1-1.5 bhp gains and believe me its nt worth the effort and money unless and until u have a bike which is tuned for ultimate performance , like the joelled ones.
A lean mixture on the long run may result into all this as was in my case. I was running a lean mixture for over 3 months and this is wat i got
1. Burnt valves
2. Burnt valve oil sealing
3. A bad bore kit i.e the piston was gone
so this whole setup gave me a jhatka of rs 5k minimum, maybe more in ur case. I was getting a pathethic mileage of 19kmpl from my rtr after the valves were kaput.
It has been my strong observation tht people who install free flow filters feel they got more power just because of the grunty sound, but believe me its hypothetical, im sure u will get better performance with the stock filter at no cost.
I will anyday prefer a free flow exhaust too a free flow filter. Though i will get it on my bike but tht would be the last thing to be done.
Peace
cheers
hey dude wake up , who said u need a k&n to pop wheelies, its completely hypothetical, just read the above lines and u will get to knw what it is all about. In short
ffaf+perfect tuning= whoa! 1 bhp gain, loud sound
ffaf+ bad tuning (most common case)= loud sound + a sluggishly performing bike + low mileage+ high maintenance.Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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on an R15 yes it can.. the stock crank has been designed to handle absolute amount of abuse and the diasyl engine is one of its kind... by default it is a high revving one. to hit the Absolute 31 bhp you will also need to upgrade custom camshaft without decomp leveler to handle high revs and improving to life of the rocker arm, upgrade to racing valve springs and racing clutch springs for better performance and longer life..Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostGuys i have a doubt,The stock power output is 17hp,So will the stock transmission will be able to hold the power of a 30hp? nearly double.
No offence to anyone.
Just my doubt.
Regarding FZ, i am yet to finish the rest of the mods so can't comment but so far the performance change just with the exhaust is promising so will do the souping up of me FZ for sure!!
CheersLast edited by shv18; 12-07-2011, 07:47 PM.A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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Ok bro,lets wait for a final report.Originally posted by shv18 View Poston an R15 yes it can.. the stock crank has been designed to handle absolute amount of abuse and the diasyl engine is one of its kind... by default it is a high revving one. to hit the Absolute 31 bhp you will also need to upgrade custom camshaft without decomp leveler to handle high revs and improving to life of the rocker arm, upgrade to racing valve springs and racing clutch springs for better performance and longer life..
Regarding FZ, i am yet to finish the rest of the mods so can't comment
Cheers
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostNormally they're changed when the bike fails to reach previous speeds in the same RPM. etc, Mine reaches [email protected] if it reaches [email protected] then its time for a clutch & tranny overhaul.
Dude are u talking bout FZ wen u say it reaches 60kmph @3.75rpm
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Being too optimistic?Originally posted by shv18 View Postalso post upgrades, the new R165 will be generating 28-29 bhp on the rear wheel and is indeed a ninja killer.
It may wander in Ninja territory but no way it can beat a Ninja, if it does then it is the mistake of the rider not of Ninja.
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Motul 300v 15W X 50 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil
All claims directly coming from Mr. Fieroid..Originally posted by abhijitkn View PostBeing too optimistic?
It may wander in Ninja territory but no way it can beat a Ninja, if it does then it is the mistake of the rider not of Ninja.
anyways will try and do a drag test with my friend's Ninja 250R Vs R165.. perhaps that should put an end to the speculations??
regardless, for my friend it seems to be money well spent.. all i want to see is the actual reliability test of the parts as my friend on an average just to commute during weekend hits nearly 200kms so his R165 will be going through a lot of traffic cum highway abuse and drag rounds.. will give me a fair idea about reliability factor... i know i know i am going OT but just a thought.
Anyways, today i went to town side, Mumbai and got me a bottle of Motul 300V Fully Synthetic Double Esther Oil 15W X 50, can Capacity 1ltr and priced at Rs. 860/-. Mr. Arun from Rane Private Ltd., Opera House was extremly helpful and well aware of all the engine oil he sells. He has more of less an exclusive stock of Motul oil. However, when i inquired about availability of 7100 series 10W X 40, he didn't have it. According to him, 15W X 50 Fully Synth oil is a hit amongst riders. He was willing to give better rates provided that more from his stock is purchased.. so again for those who may be interested, go in groups of say 3 or 5, you will get better discounts for sure.
i am nearing my 6th service interval and all i have to say is please DONOT GO FOR YAMALUBE mineral oil sold at svc.. my bike is slowly becoming vibey when i have just hit 1700 kms since my last service whereas Motul mineral easily lasted me for 2800-3000 kms with engine being super smooth and silky even after moderate thrashing and city rides. Me bike's chain has developed some slackness and is irritating the hell out of me when i leave the throttle to let the bike decelerate on its own with lots of clunking noise coming out as it hits the rear swing arm. will get it fixed soon. By the looks of it the chain should last me 20-25,000 kms although just a speculation. The line attaching to the lever of the rear brake has developed quite a bit of rust so intend to get it replaced it as well. it costs just 80 bucks.
Besides the above no other problem has cropped up so far. i am also contemplating whether to get the accelerator and clutch cable changed.. will get a thorough overhaul done to see if it is needed at all. will give a report post running details with FS oil and whether its worth the money..
CheersLast edited by shv18; 12-08-2011, 06:34 AM.A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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K&N filter on high altitudes
Is it a sound logic to use a K&N filter while riding in high altitude areas?
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I would say no. Atleast not without proper upjetting. Air is already quite thin at high altitudes so your engine is already working lean. Plonking a FFAF will only worsen it.Originally posted by jkhan69 View PostIs it a sound logic to use a K&N filter while riding in high altitude areas?
Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly
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Sorry bro, but you are very wrong there!Originally posted by vishal monster yamaha View PostI would say no. Atleast not without proper upjetting. Air is already quite thin at high altitudes so your engine is already working lean. Plonking a FFAF will only worsen it.
High altitude= less air= rich => down-jetting
K&N filter = more air= lean => up-jetting
So: high altitude with K&N filter could be just right!When I do something stupid, my consolation is to know that I'll do the worse one only once!
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Originally posted by Lucky Luke View PostSorry bro, but you are very wrong there!
High altitude= less air= rich => down-jetting
K&N filter = more air= lean => up-jetting
So: high altitude with K&N filter could be just right!
well, yeah, thats makes perfect sense. your right. my bad.
Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly
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Originally posted by vishal monster yamaha View PostI would say no. Atleast not without proper upjetting. Air is already quite thin at high altitudes so your engine is already working lean. Plonking a FFAF will only worsen it.
Originally posted by Lucky Luke View PostSorry bro, but you are very wrong there!
High altitude= less air= rich => down-jetting
K&N filter = more air= lean => up-jetting
So: high altitude with K&N filter could be just right!Thanks guys.Originally posted by vishal monster yamaha View Post
well, yeah, thats makes perfect sense. your right. my bad.
Was just thinking over some leh trip logs and this came to my mind, why don't we use a filter which passes more air....guess I was thinking right
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read vishwas sir's blog.. perhaps one of the only guys who has taken an fz and written an extensive log on xbhpOriginally posted by jkhan69 View PostThanks guys.
Was just thinking over some leh trip logs and this came to my mind, why don't we use a filter which passes more air....guess I was thinking right
cheersA quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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everything said and done, who wouldn't want a high revving fz! Go Joel!!

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