I'd be demanding new brake pads. Putting oil on a brake pads friction surface no no no no no.
You can always try brake kleen type aerosol cleaner. Or electrical contact cleaner.

Why would the dealership clean dust with diesel?
Oil, grease I would understand, but brake dust?

1. I warmed up the engine for 5 min with few full throttles in the afternoon. After that I waited for another 5 min for the oil to settle.
Then I checked the oil level in center stand. Its exactly at the Min mark of the dip stick without screwing it.


2. This is the 1st time I switched from mineral oil to FS i.e @ 20000 kms. I changed oil filter also.


3. @ 21000 kms I did a 500 km highway ride with avg speed of 90 kmph. After the ride I checked oil level and it was below min so I topped it up to full.


4. Yes the now the oil colour is between light brown and dark i.e after the top up.


5. 300V is way ahead when compared to mineral in terms of engine smoothness, gear shift, etc. I felt the difference.




Its appx 3000 kms after my oil change.


What is the changing interval for FS oil?


Now a top up is enough for my ride or complete oil change is necessary along with oil filter?


Thanks in advance.

Well in terms of interval, personally i have taken her to 5000 kms without any problem. If you do a google check on this with my name you will get all the reports i have posted. Anyways, What i would say is top it up and do you ride, there shouldnot be any problem.

Once you come back if you again see the engine oil hitting minimum mark then as mentioned by Antz.bin, your ride definitely needs to be checked. If i remember correctly Muztarique's ride started eating 300V in under 1000 kms of filling it up. Later inspection revealed that the piston rings had gone bust. But then again it was deduced that extreme high speed runs on the red lining without modulating the throttle for extremely long distances led to that. Muztarique mate please forgive me if i wrongly mentioned your name for this troubleshooting.

Because of some people reporting their doubts with this oil, I decided to take this up to Motul and also asked a few experts on xbhp to tell me if so why is this happening? So what i have come to understand is that Motul 300V does clean up a lot of gum and dirt deposition from the engine. Some of this gum may have formed a thin layer in the cylinder and on the piston rings over a period of time. So when a better oil with cleaning properties is fed into the system, it cleans up those gum formation as well, as a result the minute microscopic inconsistencies on the surface of the cylinder and rings formed due to gum deposition, now removed by a better oil thus, allows the oil to get leaked in the combustion chamber.

The same problem has been witnessed by a lot of vintage car owners where their engine would lose compression and eat oil the moment they tried using engine oil with better cleaning properties and FS in some cases. So all the slush and gum deposits which have been formed using crappy oil or coz of bad fuel, rich tuning or plainly carbon deposition with due age earlier now get cleaned up by modern oil thus opening plug holes for oil to get through.

The above point may be only one of the factors behind such kind of behaviour by your engine.

I would appreciate it if senior riders do correct me if i have understood it wrongly.

Cheers,

Thanks for your input arijitmaniac. Guys please do come forward with your reviews of SVCs you have used. It doesnot matter if you have visited the same SVC. More the number better.

I will compile this into a big post so that Noobs and senior riders also have somthing to look forward to if they know which SVC reacts how and how can you make them sing a tune you want them to sing when it comes to servicing and troubleshooting your ride.


Cheers,

Starting the bike/car in second gear by pushing can't be categorized as for noobs. Because I learnt this method in 7th standard even before touching any geared bikes. I think I tried this method on old mopeds like SPARK and LUNA (which didn't have gear but) still sometimes needed pushing to get started. I don't think anyone here still doesn't know this method because it's been followed from ages. Anyways I will prefer kick any day with the recent incident happened to a CBZ extreme fella. This guy was at the railway crossing and the gates were to be lifted say in 2-3 mins time, the train was about to pass and this guy who didn't have kick atleast cranked 20-25 times with the start button. Oh my as he was standing at first near the gate and there were full of bikes all over and no space to move, he didn't have even chance to give a gentle push and just imagine that moment and when the gates will be lifted even the traffic cop can catch him for obstructing the traffic. And finally I think having 10 more cranks the bike got started and having witnessed the gruesome scenario, I just thanked my bike for coming with kick starter.

But I appreciate for putting all things clean and clear which very seldom people do after attaining knowledge. You are like a sweet stream which goes on flowing and you really deserve a celebrity status.


Nice to see that your babe is on fire back again. Hope to see your modded review even before mine because I won't be posting anything in detail about the modds till I start ripping after 2k kms gradual run-in(decided by your advice).

Will be opening a separate thread pitting against R15 Big bore kit (if the mod permits) but all my ride and ownership updates will be on Powerhouse thread.

cheers

Good to see you taking Loving care of your bike..
FZ being a conventional carburetor bike does not need the battery to be disconnected since in Ignition OFF position no circuit will be connected,and no drain of battery will occur.....In cars with Fi the ECU is always ON, so that the Look up table retains the memory values of the real time driving

Thanks to shv18, Muztarique and Antz.bin for the suggestions.

For now I will top it up and will check regularly the oil level. I will drain it after 5000 kms.
Decrease in level may be due to constantly ripping the ride daily @5000 to 7000 rpm

BTW please mention the regular maintenance points for every 3000 kms. It would be helpful for me at this point of time.
I had done the preventive maintenance points mentioned by Shv18 in this thread @20000 kms.

Thanks in advance

I would suggest that you write your whole experience right from the build taking place along with the videos/pics you decide to click to every alternate 200-300 kms of running you do with the new build, you interaction with the man himself and what did you learn.

It is imperative that you should try and do what i have done by learning from others and others have too since, the beginning of xbhp.. Let other people live the experience through your post.. I believe thats what counts!! Just posting random details and just taking advice won't benefit the community right?.. give and take relationship is what is encouraged here.. You should try and document everything.. so in a way you have a virtual history sheet of whatever has happened with your ride.. right from purchase of your ride till the mods and beyond.. So when you look back you have all the details related to your ride in one place.... Lots of pics does help for other people to follow your footsteps be it the stock bike or a souped up one..

thats all i have to say

Cheers,

They had done that last service also. I took a ride after the service and was shocked to see no bite at all from the front. Asked them why and they said its normal procedure to clean with diesel and the brakes will be back to normal in a few days. Guess I'll be shooting a mail to Yamaha asking if this really is "normal" procedure.

Meanwhile I've cleaned the disc with mild soap water, but the bite is still low. Guess the pads will have to be cleaned as you said.
Will try it. Do I have to disassemble the brake assembly? Or just spraying a cleaner on the pads and then applying the brake continuously a few times while riding slowly will do the job?

Depending on that I've to decide whether to do it myself or trust it to a mechanic.

Thanks for the tip anyway

Cheers!

As pointed out correctly by shv18 and psr ji this looks like an issue with AIS. If your bike is under warranty then get it replaced from the SVC. If they tell you that AIS is not covered under warranty then ask them to mention the same in writing and then shoot an email to Yamaha.

Last week my bike completed 3 Years (34K Kms).
- Renewed insurance from Bajaj Allianz (1200 Rs)
- New front rim. The old one had small cracked and I was using tube for last 3 months (2200 Rs)
- Motul Mineral Oil and Oil Filter
- Changed both the side panels as one of them was broken by some fuel thief. The old silver panels were not available so had no option and went for Matt Black ones
- Front brake pads and master cylinder seal was replaced with brake oil change.
- Air Filter and rear brake liner were good and can last 5K Kms more.
- Both the rear indicators were replaced as one of them was broken.
- I asked the mechanic to adjust the play in handle as it was too light. He messed it that up completely.
- Speedo has stopped working and not showing correct speeds from yesterday. (Looks like the mechanic messed up here also)
- Was charged 100 Rs for chain lube even though I specifically asked not to do it.

Then new SVC which I tried this time was Dolphin Yamaha (newly opened at Asalfa - Ghatkopar). Just 2 mechanics and just one of them is competent to touch your bike. He too messed with some of the parts in mine. Kamla Yamaha has still set the benchmark which these guys wont touch anyday. I was in SVC from 11 to 6 PM to get this work done. I would rate them strictly unprofessional as compared to Kamla Yamaha.

Hi guys,
I booked my fiery orange FZ-S yesterday and the dealer promised that he'd deliver today.
I am a amateur rider and this is my first bike. I feel rather disappointed to be ignorant about the bikes.
So it'd be helpful if someone can enlighten me about the best riding and maintenance tips for FZ-S
Thanks in advance
Rakesh

yes its detachable and its about loosening 4 bolts that were present in the inner side of mudguard.
It will take less that 10 mins with a local mechanic to remove the long fender.
Now i ride without a fender actually, my FZ's tail just ends where the red color reflector ends

Hey Rakesh turn few pages back and you can see all things about maintenance and all. Have patience to read atleast 25-50 from back, you will be filled with enough.

This is how the new FZ looks without the fender extension.

Thanks. I already read a few pages before getting the bike, just made this request so that I don't miss anything.
Rakesh

Hi folks,

I want to install green coloured powerful led in the pilot lamp(parking light) of my Fazer.Could you please tell me the rating/ specification and price for this? And will it be a plug and play? I stay in Kolkata. Could anyone kindly tell me any shop name at wellington/any other place in Kolkata, from where I can get this?