Agreed!!! Have never in my life let oil into the soil or sewers. Not only that, most people don't seem to understand one very basic fact: oil is recyclable. The base oil is still good and most oil blenders do use at least a part of these used oils (after proper refining of course) to blend and create fresh oil.

At PBK service centre, the used oil is stored in drums & then sent for recycling! The used oil is used for few purposes like road construction. Doesn't other dealers dispose off the used oil like this?

VarunTP

Hi everyone, Need suggestions I own a Yamaha FZ 16. 2.3 yrs old done 20500kms . Looks like it's time to replace the Rear tyre, Airfilter and Chain sprocket. I was thinkin of goin for the MRF Zapper with tube, costs abt Rs3600 as I need to keep checkin the tyre pressure once in 2 days probably because of a bent rim. Is he MRF Zapper with tube a good choice ? and is changin the chain sprocket before the monsoon advisable ( or is the monsoon completely insignificant)

I am giving the bike for service this weekend so will get it checked with SVC, today morning I had a nasty slip some bruces here and there for me, nothing noticble on the bike except the bent handlebar. Can it be fixed or going for a replacement is the best option and how much would it cost??

I guess you never read my post properly. I stated NEW engines.

You can follow whatever oil changing interval you want, But when your engine rotating parts are scored, worn and damaged beyond repair for the sake a oil change to dump impurities that will harm the engine, Who am I to tell you to change the oil, Especially on a new engine. Of course how can I forget, New engines don't have any metals that wear off and collect in the oil, How can it, Its brand new right!
You should also lean your carb out to the very limit, infact go over the limit so you can get better mileage, That way, The money you save on oil, filter changes and fuel you can put that towards replacing crank, rod, shafts, oilpumps, gears etc....

Take a look at the size of oil galleries and journals in a engine. The size is very small. They can be blocked very easily, Once blocked the chances of unblocking are slim to none. The consequences of the blocked oil journal can lead to engine failure due to rotating parts not getting oil which inturn leads to friction and wear and tear (or welding/fusing itself together should the heat get hot enough) Take a look at spun rod bearings and you will see the damaged caused by not changing oil regularly.

Your comment about "it might mean that the engine is just falling apart from the inside" to me makes me wonder if you are aware of preventative maintenance. You should be checking your equipment regularly, If you notice something beginning to wear out or start to break you have time to plan to get it repaired. Your comment to me sounds like you would rather be ignoring problems rather than addressing them before they become major issues or a "show stopper" (break down on the side of the road)

Wouldn't you like to be aware of your engine falling apart by changing the oil, rather than in the usual broken down in the middle of the night, in the pouring rain, in a bad neighborhood simply because you wanted to save a few bucks and leave the oil change another few thousand kms. If it was upto me and I saw big metalic chunks come out in the oil I wouldn't be riding it anymore.

Have you heard about oil analysis? You take a sample of oil, send it to the lab to get analysed. The lab gives the results back with a full breakdown of the contamination. What metals are present means what parts are getting worn down, The presence of coolant (in liquid cooled engines) may be a indication of leaking gaskets etc. The lab will also tell you if your oil is still lubricating and protecting the internals or if the properties have broken down and its time to change.

To the others reading make up your own minds. I for one am all for changing the oil and filters on a regular basis. For the sake of a few bucks and peace of mind.
Even if you don't use the engine you should change the oil. Remember that petrol (and diesel) will be contaminating the oil, Reducing the lubrication properties and even turning acidic (given the right conditions) There are reasons why engines have servicing schedules based on hours of use or months in service.

You may think this post is a little excessive but I'm infact being as brief as I can while explaining the reasons for more frequent oil changes in a NEW engine. However you still get some people who will swear black and blue that oil should be changed at a km range, Not when the properties broken down over time, heat and use.

When was the last time you "felt/touched" your oil? I'm willing to bet that a lot of people simply look at it on the end of the dipstick and put it back, Some will go further and wipe it on a rag, Others may even wipe it first, dip and then put it back, then there's the few people who actually touch the oil with their fingertips. Rub it between their fingers, feeling for the ridges of their fingerprints. If you can't feel your fingerprint then the oil is still ok, If you can start feeling your fingerprint ridges then that's telling you that the oil is no longer working and its time to be changed sooner, rather than later. Take it one step further, Have a smell of the oil. We all know what clean oil should smell like. If it smells burnt then its obviously time to change it.
Next oil change feel the old oil (cooled down of course) take a sniff. Remember the feeling and the smell, then (after cleaning your hands and fingers of course) get the empty container of new oil you've just had poured into your engine. Stick your finger inside and wipe some oil onto your finger. Rub it between your thumb and index finger. Take a quick sniff. Notice the difference

Luke brought up a very valid point regarding recycling of oil, Only support those who recycle the oil, It may cost a little more but think about the health of the earth. Would you rather go riding through nice alive scenery or dead polluted land?

Query Approved and merged with Ownership Thread

Mik you can be sarcastic...
I recently got my engine rebuilt to stock as I had oil burning issues... So here is what I did
Changed oil and Filter at the following intervals
200km 20w40 Mineral
500km 20w40 Mineral
850km 15w50 SS

If you are suffering a lot of puncture issues then you can opt for Dunlop Tuff grip 140-70-17. Is a good tire and should get rid of most of the puncture problems that you may be facing. Otherwise if you want an even harder compound tire, then try the Kings tire 130-70-17. All the details of the tire with pictures have been mentioned on this thread, a search will help.

Tubed tire not recommended. A sudden loss of tire pressure while riding in high speeds will be dangerous or rather fatal. I would suggest replace the rim or else try and get in touch with user:trustvishwas. He should be able to provide you some alternative suggestions for the same.

Change both the sprockets and chain when due for replacement. Always go for genuine yamaha parts. Regarding spark plug, you can also look for G-spark, plugs, have heard good reviews about them.


Cheers,

@shiv18

Really does it matter if I didn't change the oil filter @250 km ODO? Actually i wanted to ask one expert mechanic about changing the oil and filter, but he wasn't there. His father drained the oil from my bike and poured petronas sprinta 20w 50 mineral oil. They had only that oil with them. All this was done in hurry. And I am worried.

Shiv only you can tell me what to do next. Should I wait for 1000km ODO or should I do something immediately.

Pls suggest

if you do the engine breakin like the motoman.. Yes you want half of this change interval.. But if you do it like as mentioned in the manual you require just one oil change as prescribed in the manual.. At 1000 or one month.
In Nov 2011 there were 1.36 million motorbikes sold in India alone.. Thats not the highest figure, thats what i got after searching the internet for bike sales figure.. Imagine every biker starts changing 4 litres of oil rather than 1 litre for so called engine protection!! (also considering the engine oil at 1l volume for these 1.36 million, though there are bikes like ktm 200 and pulsar 200ns and our own fz which consume 1.2 l to 1.4 litre of oil per change).. Where do you want to take this earth? Its upto you.
There should be a balance in everything.. Not every drop of oil is recycled 100percent and also the oil refining process is not 100 percent efficient.. No process in this world is 100 percent efficient.. Considerinh it to be 80 percent efficient (though i am sure its lower than that) 20 percent still goes up in flames and heat which is required in the extraction process. If experts like Lucky, Joel etc does it, its not necessary that i also do it. May be it gives 5000 km more than a normally treated engine. So it does 1.05 lakh kms when it would have done 1 lakh kms otherwise. I would be happily sleeping in my grave thinking 'i left some fuel for the future generations to enjoy'.
I respect you lucky and others.. There is nothing against you..
I just want this trend of changing oil four times when the manual says once, to end.
The oil filter is capable of filtering out the metallic particles for a 1000 kms atleast..
I didnt know where was the oil filter in my splendour (100 cc).. There was a mesh filter which i cleaned in the first service and the bike kept itself for a lakh kms until i sold it off.. And there are lakhs of people like me who didnt do 4 oil changes in first thousand kms and are happy with their machines.

Dont fear metallic particles floating around in the engine.. Oil filters are designed to take that away!
Imagine what the experts will say to my brother who owns a vw polo and the first oil change is 10,000 kms or one year!!
50, 100, 250, 500, 1000.... Now the expert will pitch in that bike engine oils lubricate the transmission xyz.. But I am talking about floating metallic particles only!! Which are dangerous for everything the car engine oil lubricates.
Welcome to the world of oil filters.. Its not just paper.

Hi,

i would say it is a good practice to replace the oil filter within the 1st 250 kms.. this is the time when the engine will be shedding a lot of metal bits. The genuine Yamaha oil filter from the svc counter costs around 50-60 bucks only so is not a major cost per say. However, having said that, i had replaced my oil as per the manual right around close to 1000 kms without going for the oil change or oil filter before that duration and my bike is performing absolutely fine. If you feel it is not a major burden to your wallet then go ahead with the oil filter change... did you see any "imri" or shiny metal bits in the factory oil while it was being drained in a container??

Be nice to your bike in this period and she will return the favour .
No need to panic..


Cheers,

@mad mik: I am not even going to participate in the discussion above as i know millions and millions of motorcycles whose engine has been busted because of rotating metal pieces in the engine......

and dont even get me started on the mileage and saving few bucks ffor some stupid oil change method....

there is a issues about throttle cable of fz and fz s as both cable length are differ so kindly look and ask the dealer which throttle cable he is giving you..

I wanted to change the rear suspension setup. It's too soft now especially with a pillion.

Can anyone help me here? Is there a DIY? Don't want to go to SVC as they will keep the bike for whole day for just this.

FZians please help me regarding LEGAL artifacts for FZ-S

1. Is it possible to fit License plate under headlamp in FZ-S?
Caught by traffic cops twice for not having plates in front....
IMV act permits to have registration numbers on front mudguard. Can yu guys please post your front license plate pics so that I will follow the same method (But I don't want to fit it on the visor since it will destroy FZ'S beauty).

2. Please tell a place to keep bike PAPERs. I don't have tank cover.
Have anyone fitted extra box on right or left side near rear wheel to keep papers, extra tools and misc things??

3. Is it legal to fit multitone Roots horn in FZ?
The law says its offence but how about Skoda and VW cars?? Is it multitone horn or someother type?

Thanks in advance