C Spanner is the name of the tool.

You can also use other tools like a big plumbers wrench.
More preload tension (shorter) on the spring the harder the ride.
The less preload tension (longer) on the spring then the softer the ride.

got leh'd

Hi guys,

Got leh'd on FZ



Did the following changes to the bike:
1. Changed battery to Amco Yuasa, as exide was not available
2. Changed engine oil to Shell AX7 10W40
3. Replaced front tyre as the old had already done 24K
4. Changed Clutch and accelerator cable(took the old ones along for just in case, as suggested by fellow xbhpian Mitz).
5. changed Air Filter (regular change after 12K)

Rear tyre is stock had done ~8K before the journey, performed fine and no issues.

We started from Jammu and exited through Manali. bike couldn't pull at Zozi La, as there was no change done to carburator at that point of time. After crossing Srinagar noted that front right side shock absorber oil seal is gone, i'll have to blame ASC for this as they changed the oil seal just few days back.
Reaching Leh, got the oil seal replaced and tuned carburator for high altitude passes(same process that Mr.Vishwas informed in is travelogue), after this no issues climbing Khardung La and other passes.

Hi glad to know that you had a good experience at Leh/Ladakh!! . Hope that you will be posting a detailed trip log in the tourer's section on xbhp.

Cheers,

wow. congrats.

Hi FZians

My FZ-S (2009 model) clocked 20k in odo.. So I'm planned to do preventive maintenance. Of course I'm a rookie so need ur help guys....

Please clarify below points reg service:

1. Engine oil: Changed at 15k. Yamalube is used till now. But now planning to use Motul. I need butter smooth engine. So please suggest me the variant of Motul to be used. Cost doesn't matter.

2. Air filter: Changed at 17k. So I hope only cleaning is sufficient since it has life of 12k as per user manual.

3. Rear brake shoe kit: Changed at 15k. No issues till now.

4. Clutch kit assembly: changed at 15k.

5. Front brake oil: Needs to be changed. Please suggest me whether to use Dot 3 or dot 4 and which brand

6. Please let me know what are the other things to be checked for PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE regarding electrical wiring, battery, chain, spark plug, fork, suspension, brakes, cables, exhaust, etc so that I will mention everything to the SVC guys else they will miss out many things...

Regarding:

1) Electrical wiring: Terminals need to be cleaned thats all.
2) Battery: Needs a water top up and the terminals cleaned and greased or applying petroleum jelly.
3) Chain: adjusting the slackness.. if the adjustment has reached the last point then both chain and the sprockets will have to be replaced. The whole set costs around Rs. 1300
4) Spark plug: If still on stock one.. get the condition checked... you can also go for the G-spark plug... pretty good or else stick to stock NGK.
5) Fork: they need to be checked properly.. by 15,000 kms the fork oil will be black in colour and the seals may have become weak.. ideally i would recommend replacing seals and oil on both forks.
6) Suspension: Same as above.. rear needs a bit of cleaning and check the rebound rate.
7) Exhaust: Nothing needed to be done.
8) Cables: clutch and accelerator cables.. check and replace if necessary.
9) Coneset: Ensure that the coneset is checked properly... and greased... if the coneset has gone bad then it will have to be replaced.. costs around Rs. 3000-3500/-. Swingarm needs to be checked.. the cush pads might have become hard.. if needed get them replaced... the usual greasing and oiling thats all. If the SVC guys are slow then expect the bike to be delivered in the evening or else next day.. If they are as good as Kamla Yamaha, Mumbai then 2 hrs flat!!.


Cheers,

I had got the Bike serviced, the chain has been cleaned and lubed, they did something called cluth bell recondition/ recoiling am not sure what it is. But the issue with Engine rattling noise I had earlier seemed to disappear for few kms say 100-150 kms the bike was smooth for couple of days and once again the rattling noise has started, can anyone help me out in fixing this problem.

Its been creeping me out for a long time , I had relief for couple days after getting the ride from SVC , but it has started again guys please help me..

I had got the Bike serviced, the chain has been cleaned and lubed, they did something called cluth bell recondition/ recoiling am not sure what it is. But the issue with Engine rattling noise I had earlier seemed to disappear for few kms say 100-150 kms the bike was smooth for couple of days and once again the rattling noise has started, can anyone help me out in fixing this problem.

Its been creeping me out for a long time , I had relief for couple days after getting the ride from SVC , but it has started again guys please help me..

FZ air filter is made of paper element. As per this thread it cant be cleaned. It has to be replaced.

Which ASC in chennai have you got it done ?

Got a new query...exactly how far can u tilt the bike while cornering? I feel scared of cornering,but feel excited to do it.How far is it safe for me and the bike,without falling over? A pic showing the same will be more welcome.

Wow...thats great...hope to read your reviews on the trip with the FZ experience also...post some more snaps brother

Posted For gn.times... I hope it helps...


As shv 18 said.........

1) Electrical wiring: Terminals need to be cleaned thats all.
2) Battery: Needs a water top up and the terminals cleaned and greased or applying petroleum jelly.
3) Chain: adjusting the slackness.. if the adjustment has reached the last point then both chain and the sprockets will have to be replaced. The whole set costs around Rs. 1300
4) Spark plug: If still on stock one.. get the condition checked... you can also go for the G-spark plug... pretty good or else stick to stock NGK.
5) Fork: they need to be checked properly.. by 15,000 kms the fork oil will be black in colour and the seals may have become weak.. ideally i would recommend replacing seals and oil on both forks.
6) Suspension: Same as above.. rear needs a bit of cleaning and check the rebound rate.
7) Exhaust: Nothing needed to be done.
8) Cables: clutch and accelerator cables.. check and replace if necessary.
9) Coneset: Ensure that the coneset is checked properly... and greased... if the coneset has gone bad then it will have to be replaced.. costs around Rs. 3000-3500/-. Swingarm needs to be checked.. the cush pads might have become hard.. if needed get them replaced... the usual greasing and oiling thats all. If the SVC guys are slow then expect the bike to be delivered in the evening or else next day.. If they are as good as Kamla Yamaha, Mumbai then 2 hrs flat!!....

Now as of your query.
1.-Engine oil- use Motul 5100 15 w 50....here is the link for your reference... Welcome to Motul
don't use full synthetics as it results in clutch slipage.
2.-Airfilter. should be changed between 8000-12000 depending on the place where you live...if you have changed at 17000...no need to change... ask the service center people to blow air and clean it...do not use any cleaner or water.
3.- Brake oil- Use dot 4 oil either from motul or from Castrol.
Welcome to Motul
4.- Spark plug. - Iam using NGK iridium spark plug ...you can change over..its good... plug and play and forget about changing the plug...periodic cleaning is required..

Any other info if required plz feel free to ask..

In FZ's stock air filter's case... it means blow off the dust with compressed air...


Cheers,

Every morning engine starting problem

Guys, this morning when I started my bike using kick lever, it started and stalled immediately. Then I had to give atleast 12-15 kicks with 2 or three intervals and then later, the bike started. What must be the issue? Bike is already 430 ODO. Daily run is very less 10-12 kms daily. Everyday when I start I need to either raise the acceleration (maybe 3-4 rpm for 30-40 seconds) for sometime or pull the choke and then the bike settles. It happens daily. Will all this problem settle after first service which is due for next week. Or should I do something immediately.

Question... Why would you want to use the kicker if you already have electric start as a primary option? Are you trying to save electricity of the battery? Jokes apart, personally I don't see the point of having a kicker on an FZ. Use the starter motor more often and keep the kicker as a fail safe option if and when the battery decides to fail.

Anyways, Coming back to your query, I presume the current ambient temperatue at your place is pretty pleasent or cold. If so, then the carbed bike will need some time to warm up to reach the optimum operating temperature. It is a normal process to use choke under such circumstances. Plus your engine idling speed might be set to a low level, as a result when your engine cranks up and shuts off most likely after being on for about 5 or 10 seconds if that's what you are pointing to. No need to panic, finish off your run-in first. These are very small niggles and can be easily rectified at the first service.

Cheers,