Well bit difficult to judge what are you trying to say. If you are talking about the chain and the sprockets.. They have a life of around 15-20,000 kms. You will have to replace them as a set. Air Filter and spark plug(unless in good condition) 12,000 kms and engine oil based on usage: mineral- 2000-3000 kms, Semi synthetic oil-3000-3500, and Fully synthetic engine oil: 5000 kms+.

If you are talking about cam timing chain and other parts... Unless the engine has worn out pistons seals and lose chain I don't think the parts have to be replaced. Although, I have never done it myself as with just under 22,000 kms under the belt on my Fz, the engine is relatively still new. I guess other senior riders may be able to point out the problem better.

If you are witnessing a lot of white smoke from your exhaust when riding.. Then most likely the piston rings are shot and a new piston and rings will be needed to be replaced.. Yup your engine will need to be opened up. The best place to get the rates will be at the svc itself. I presume you have been keeping her at the redline for extremly long durations or missing out on proper servicing schedules.. Otherwise usually such problems don't crop out under a 19k engine.

Stop riding your bike and immediately get the things fixed or the engine will seize soon. Just having 100 ml is an alarming rate of oil consumption!

Senior riders may fill in on something if I have missed out..

Cheers,

Here is my interpretation of what you are telling us.
between 4000 - 5500rpm the is no power. (you are holding constant speed/throttle)
Also no pickup/acceleration in 1st gear.

Other RPM ranges are ok?
Does it idle smoothly or goes up and down?
I will add some assumptions here as you didn't tell us if you had these problems.

1. Spark is ok, Engine does not have a miss.
2. Air filter has a clear entry and filter element is relatively new and not clogged.
3. Up to 0-4000RPM the engine is fine
4. Over 5500RPM+ the engine is fine.

If the other RPM ranges are ok then this sounds to me like the jet responsible for flowing the fuel at that RPM range is blocked or incorrect A/F tune
Too much or too little fuel at that rpm point.
The lack of pickup will be especially noticeable in 1st gear as you will be screaming up through the RPM. You should be starting to make good power at that RPM. Carb problem will stop you making power.

Firstly check your fuel filter/s. If there is a blockage then you need to check upstream. How did it get there? Why didn't the filter trap the debris?
Is it too small for the filter to catch? Are you constantly running the fuel tank empty? Do you keep the tank full? or just a few liters in it?

Reason for keeping your tank full is to stop the insides oxidizing/ rusting due to oxygen in the air. If its full of fuel then there is less air inside, less moisture to help the oxidization process. Less rust = less debris your strainer/filters need to trap.

I know there is a fuel strainer that sits vertical inside your fuel tank as part of the fuel cock. When your tank is empty take a small pen sized torch and shine it into the tank's left side. Check to see if the strainer is clear.
Underneath the fuel cock is another "filter" of sorts. Check that it is not clogged.
Follow the fuel line to your carb.
You need your carb stripped down and cleaned or at the very least your jet responsible for flowing the fuel at that RPM removed and the holes cleaned or the entire jet replaced then the carb tuned.

My bike also kicks around when its in a tall gear under 4500RPM. It still needs some tune (adjust jetting) to smooth it out. To solve that problem I just cruise around in 3rd gear (15tooth sprocket helps that) or 4th. I rarely use 5th gear unless I'm on the hwy.

To answer your question about your recent oil change, Oil has no effect on throttle/carb.
Oil is a friction reducer (lubricant) and helps remove heat from the internal of the engine.

Hope the explanation and reasons help.

I guess you were meaning black smoke...

Anyway: what G#OST describes is quite worrying on the condition of his engine!!!
A simple test, not needing to open the engine, would be to have the compression measured using a compression test meter. Make sure, G#OST, that they use the kick starter, and energetically, when doing this test, not the electric one since the decompression lever system in the cylinder head will be active at too low revs and give a wrong reading.
Little hope anyway for this poor beast...!

@ Vinay: what you "describe" is just too difficult to understand (and, please, avoid any SMS abbreviation. Thanks!)

Guys . I have a small doubt. i had read somewhere in xbhp that in FAZER/FZ we can use a 15t front sprocket,without changing the rear sprocket and the chain.and can use rear sprocket that of a pulsar ug3 or that of a unicorn. But yesterday i asked a mechanic at my place,he said that if i want to replace the front sprocket to 15 i have to change the rear as well ,because there is a ratio of front and rear sprocket. Moreover he said that it will cause damage to my engine because there will be a lot of strain. Guys can you please help me out in this case because i want to change my front sprocket to 15t. please help

thanks to all friends to Solving it out as yesterday i move svc there the mechanic told me that your cam shaft chain or silent chain is making noise as well as clutch plate and air filter have wore out that why i am not getting pick up in first gear as well as slow pick up in every gear .....

Well want to know should i change the clutch plate(526rs) , air filter(210rs) and cam shaft chain (328rs)

OR

just clutch plate and air filter ??

it seems you have not done our homework.. please see this thread and confirm it by yourself if you require any other mod besides 15t front sprocket:http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...et-change.html

Sprocket change will not damage your engine.. it will alter the gearing ratios thats it... in short, your bike will have a higher top end but will suffer the lower grunt which it had on the stock 14T front sprocket. Your bike's engine will be using comparatively lesser rpm range to achieve the same speed reducing the stress on the engine when gunning it. Please do ask the mechanic where did he get this info from...


Hi,

it is very confusing.. please clearly state what is the problem that you are facing? give us a background of your bike's history, service interval, last service done.. what parts have been replaced as per the recommended schedule mentioned on your bike's manual? What noise are you talking about?? is it coming directly from the engine or when you are riding you hear a noise coming from the back of the vehicle?

Without that we cannot suggest anything.

Slow pick up can also happen because of incorrect AFR tuning of the carburetor or the rear chain becoming very lose resulting loss in power transmission to the rear wheel

Cheers,

Thank you so much for your help brother. I actually did all my homework :-P but just wanted to confirm my info with that of all the FZ owners.. Thank you for the quick response...

@shv18

my fz background bought on 11 dec 2008 , 1st service on 19 jan 2009 (796Km) and 1st accident on 20 jan 2009 (protector muffler , cap , RH tank coil , handle bar , fender , meter , master cylinder assy , handle switch , head light , fork T repair )

5th service 11 sept 2009 (element oil filter change)

02 nov 2009 major accident ( 6 month bed rest and 3 week in icu and about fz fully damage from LH )

on 19 .10. 2010 ... spring torsion broke

on 27.06.2011 ... clutch plate change

on 12 sept .2011.... new cone set , new fork oil , new disk pads and rear brake shoe , clutch cable , throttle cable , air filter , element oil filter

on 21 may 2012 .... KN airfilter fit with p220 main jet

0n 25 may 2012 .... removed KN airfilter fit with p220 main jet back to stock..

last service done on 25 may 2012

the noise is coming form cam silent chain......

I've been riding around with a 15t sprocket from a pulsar for months now. I prefer it over the stock 14t.

Your mechanic probably means that to keep your gearing similar you need to alter the rear sprocket. As for causing more strain on the engine..........

What are your reasons for wanting to change to 15t?
Mine was so I can hold the gears longer while accelerating. Leaving it in a lower gear while riding around the city.
The RPM is not really that much lower to make a decent saving in fuel.
It does seem a little sluggish at the start but I give it plenty of WOT and 7k gear changes cruising around.
If you are going to be riding and keeping the RPM under 4000, just barely cracking open the throttle then stick to the factory sprocket.
Mileage or fuel consumption is the last thing in my mind (as you probably know by now) Infact the more the merrier (more fuel+air = more HP and a happier Mik )

Did you get a custom cam?
Any more details on the carb?
Is the tps adapter hard to do?
We will have to meet up and take a look when I get back home.
I'll see if Peter (black fz16) wants to come and take a look too.

Anymore FZR meetings happening in Saigon?

Hi,
throughout your service history, I don't see the sprockets and the chain connecting your engine to the rear tire change.. Or did you missed out posting it over here? If your are constantly hearing "khat khat" or churning noise at speeds then the chain needs an urgent replacement and so do the sprockets. Very loose chain will result in diminished performance

I am still not sure about the cam timing chain so can't comment. Regardless, if the air filter has not been changed for over 12000, kms then one has to replace it at the earliest.If the bike can't breath properly then it will not perform correctly. If your bike's clutch is slipping while engaging gears then get it inspected and replace if necessary.

Cheers,

I got it done at SAIRAM Motors Padi

FZ user manual

Hi guys

I don't have hard copy of user manual of FZ.

If you have digital or scanned copy please send it across to me ([email protected]) or provide the link here.

At least I need all pages of PERIODIC MAINTANENCE AND ADJUSTMENT.

Please help

Thanks in advance.

@shv18

Myself haven't miss any point as i maintain a file record of fz from very 1st date till now.

Yes i do hear sound of khat khat from my chain socket as well as my air filter , clutch plate and oil filter haven't change from last 12 k

Well my fz is over heating as well as it smelling burning burning from last service as am using Gulf Pride 4T Plus (20W40) Mineral Oil..


@gn.times

Please do check my previous post i have send the link of fz16 Parts catalog pdf

Erm... then howcome you have not changed the sprockets and the chain for over 53,000 kms?? they only have a life of 15-20,000 kms.. then that is not the "chain socket" thats your drive chain to the rear tire.. see the slackness.. if you see the rear chain hanging loosely then most likely it is hitting the swing arm when in motion resulting the sound from what i can understand..

Engine overheating usually is associated with incorrect AFR(Air to fuel ratio) tuning of the carburetor... Lean tuning results more mileage but long term damage to the engine internals.. The burning smell can be the clutch plates however, it is difficult to comment without seeing the bike.


Cheers,