Three things I found to benefit gear-shifting smoothness are i) Clean, oiled & correctly slacked chain ii) correctly adjusted clutch iii) fresh good oil in the engine . Moreover that noise you describe is probably from loose chain ... do the chain and see if it goes away .
A new engine is never build to perfect gaps and clearances or shapes even .. internally . The manufacturer expects it to wear itself into the optimum tolerances and shapes needed for long durable operation . This is part of the design . The only mechanical force that lets a new engine get set for life is friction . Friction is good and necessary for the new engine . If you deprive a freshly build engine of friction , it will become stunted for life . So , friction reducing oil additives & synthetic motor oils are antithetical in nature to a new engine , even without considering other possible dangers like sludge-formation in a hot new engine .The long theory is available for reading on the net , but this is what I got in simple-biker understanding .

@BlackPanther
Thanks for the advice on cleaning the chain, I think for the first time i'll give it to a local mech and ask him to clean and lubricate it in front of me as i can learn better.

@Pinaki
Thanks for the info, what you said makes sense... Probably i should have researched more when i got my bike, I just happened to trust the service guys.

It's really sad that the honda guys, just to get extra money would put those additives along with oil on new vehicles, probably one reason why i'm getting a very low mileage... I don't even know if they service the bike properly. At the time of service they are more interested in trying to convince me that i have to polish my bike.

I really hope my engine hasn't been stunted for life, and somehow magically recovers.

And that sound was coming from the chain. It just took 5 min for the local mechanic to tighten the chain, these service guys never did that properly, and somehow after a week of servicing those sounds returned earlier. I hope what the local mechanic did is good enough.

I had asked him to lubricate the chain, He'd put oil via that "oil dropper" through that opening in the chain. I felt that wasn't enough, as those honda guys used to charge 90 bucks for lubricating the chain. I've read guides on cleaning the chain, and i feel there is no way they would have cleaned the chain properly as it takes 4-5 hours.

Right now i have clean oil in my tank, I'll do that cluch adjustment this weekend(I have no idea what it is, and whether it's possible through the local mech) and I'll ask them to clean and lubricate the chain with grease. The only saving grace for the unicorn chain is that they are always covered, which i feel is a huge plus point.

Regards,
Nj

Hi,
I have had some problems of late on my Unicorn these days.
Yesterday I noticed some oil leakage on the engine oil outlet. I cleaned the outlet and ran the engine for > 10kms sufficient to make the engine hot and noticed some leakage again on the outlet. Cleaned the outlet again and left the bike for couple of hours and checked for leakage again but didn't find any. In the evening took the bike out for small ride and did not notice any leakage.

I see leakage when the engine becomes hot say if I ride >60kmph

Recently got the bike serviced changed the oil.

Please suggest.

Thanks...

Replace the oil drain plug/washer(check the drain hole threading) .. its worked for me...

Yes your local mech will know how to clean , oil & grease & adjust chain .. adjust clutch etc . No problem . I too favour covered chain bikes for Indian road conditions . Keep running the bike on plain 20w40 mineral oil and run her hard . Change the oil within every 1500 kms , drain the old oil hot . Change oil filter every time . Use engine braking when ever you can . Shift gears at high rpms only ( Ashwin reminded me this just now ). Bike should smoothen out .

Well revankar'Jee , this can be simple problem or a big one too . (i) the sealing ring that is between the crankcase & oil-nut is damaged and needs replacement or (ii) the same oil-nut was overtightened by someone causing a thin hairline crack in the engine case . Change the ring & bolt for a few bucks and see if the leak disappears , and while you are at it , ask the ASC to inspect the engine case thoroughly for any cracks or faulty gaskets . Both are possible , both are common .

Correct me if am wrong sir, but are'nt the chances of the 2nd option happening very unlikely. Cause from my little experience I've learned that the oil cover bolt is made of alluminium and is designed in such a way that even if the cover bolt is jammed, it can be broken off without causing any harm to the engine cover.

Thanks for replying, I will get this checked.

No . In all bikes I know the oil-nut is steel while the engine case is made of aluminum . ( is the karizma oil-nut made of aluminum ? I dunno .. ) . It is inherently risky to use a steel bolt on aluminum threads . The ring or washer thingy between the oil-nut & engine case is made of aluminum and is crushable , designed that way exactly to prevent such mishaps . A similar crushable washer is used on the spark-plug too for similar reasons. But then, have you seen guys tighten that bolt with a ring spanner , both hands and a feet ? I have .
So naturally I've also seen cracked case or stripped threads or permanent binding on the engine case both in this location and the spark-plug threads . Lathe guys gets lots of these for drilling out and what they call an re-tapp . Which is why I also have a good mind to procure a good torque wrench sometime .

So basically i should make her roar with pleasure Will definitely do that
Anyways, How do i change the oil filter? I don't think i've ever done it till now.

Regards,
Nj

Unicorn doesn't has any oil filter bro...

Yes i think.

Anish , you're soon going to be pro in product photography . This one looks like die-cast aluminum to me too .
Is this the nut under the kari's engine that you open to drain the engine oil ?

Can't be , no engine designer would risk recirculating solid grit with oil inside the engine . In the most rudimentary form , there shall be a wire-mesh strainer & a centrifugal filter inside . Please check if is anything is mentioned in the uni owners-manual . I think uni shall have this type only , since my cbz-x has the same and they are supposed to have the same origin . It's a PITA to get the service to open and clean these part too . And no, this type of basic oil filters are not the replaceable type . Periodic cleaning is needed instead .

Looks very much similar to the valve inspection cover,no?
And yes,its made of casted aluminium.

Yeah both are the exact same.