Thank You... I have sent them an email.

As mentioned just a post above. I will wait till the current OEM stock ones doing duty on my steed wear out and then only shall get on with the experiment. Amazon and its reviews are highly biased and unreliable so i wouldn't sweat on it.

You can also check about the compatibility with your specific motorcycle from Nikavi directly (email ID: info@nikavi.in) as CBR has two iterations of ABS model where the first gen came with Combined-ABS/C-ABS which has a three piston front brake Nissin caliper while the later gen 2018 model came with Dual channel ABS which has a 2 piston front brake Nissin caliper hence both of them have different sized pads.

It has been shared by one of the riders in some other forum that Honda CB Hornet front brake pads are a direct fit on CBR250R (C-ABS) and costs around Rs. 700-800/- for the front. However, i haven't tried it so can't comment on the same.

Cheers,

Hi Shv18, I am also looking for front brake pad for my CBR250R ABS version. The OEM ones cost 2.2k and since my usage is very less, i do not want to spend so much unless there is no cheaper alternative. Looking at the product in the link you shared, the ratings are pretty bad for the front pad. Can you confirm you got it from that link too ? and when will you be fitting it in your bike ?

Hi All,

today I received the Nikavi brake pads for Honda CBR250R (C-ABS model). Below are the pictures of the same:





Pic 1 & 2: Nikavi HH sintered Brake pads for Honda CBR 250R (C-ABS) version.

As per my discussion with a Nikavi representative the ones shown in the picture are a direct fit onto the C-ABS version. I shall still do an installation at a later date once the current ones wear out and see if there are any fitment issues on the same. I did notice one thing that the rear pads from Nikavi have far more friction material than OEM stock honda ones hence, I suspect in order to install the same, the rear caliper has to be taken out from the rear swingarm, the rear brake caliper piston gently pushed back slightly, one can then install the Nikavi pads, reinstall the rear brake caliper onto the swingarm and the rear brake rotor and then pump up the rear brake pedal to push the piston in proper position.



Pic 3: Note the amount of meat the rear brake pad has on Nikavi ones than in comparison to stock ones from Honda.

One possible benefit i foresee is that the rear pads may potentially last longer than stock ones... though yes it is circumstantial and depends on how much dependent the rider is on brakes when using the motorcycle. Only real world usage will give us a proper baseline to compare the same.


Hope this helps,

Cheers,

I recently replaced my brake pads and have a picture handy. Use this for a quick visual inspection.



Left: golden one is front brake pad for CBS (ABS) version - I believe this is for pre 2018 versions.
Right: (mine) stock front brake pad for 2018 ABS version

Hi,

For anybody who is having a hard time looking for brake pads for Honda CBR 250R ABS model from their respective Honda Service centres or spares shop, I had a chat with Nikavi - Bafna Automotive Overseas company which manufactures OEM and aftermarket parts for various two wheelers and four wheelers in India and abroad.

Following are the models which are a direct fit for Honda CBR 250R (Do note this is for C-ABS Model only):


1) Front Brake Pads:



2) Rear Brake Pads:

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will be testing them out on my "Little Bird" once the stock pads wear out completely hopefully whenever this pandemic lets us have some relief once and for all.


Cheers,

If the calipers aren't leaking, and only getting stuck, you can reuse the seals. Sticking calipers are mainly due to rust accumulation around the inner surface of the caliper piston. A thorough and complete brake overhaul; remove the pistons, along with seals, clean the pistons thoroughly and the caliper housing and innards, and install using fresh brake fluid. Remember stick brakes doesn't mean faulty calipers, it can also mean faulty master cylinder piston and O rings. If the seals aren't leaking don't bother replacing them. What's prime is to clean the piston and their recesses cleanly and new fluid and your front master cylinder overhauled and cleaned and it should be well considering the job is done well.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

When the mech opened up the rignt gasket, we observed that only the chain tensioner had broken into pieces.Timing chain did not break off completely It was still in its place. Changed both the items and everything's fine now.

One more thing i want to ask, I want to get the front caliper overhauled, the pistons are a bit sticky making the front wheel jam. I am searching for the o-rings and as always Honda ones are available nowhere. The sizes of the o-rings are 30mm and 32 mm. Any idea if any other bike would have the same size o-rings? Tried Fz,R15 ones, they are small. If someone could point out that would be really helpful.

thank you.

has it been verified that the timing chain indeed broke as the bike wont be running at all, and yes if the parts have fallen down yo wont really know where all its gone if its smaller chunks, the filter should be able to catch most.

but if that would have really happened the bike would not be running at all. get the initial daignosis done from the ASC and avoid outside mechanic unless that guy is known and competent.

Planning on getting the tires changed, since it is on stock Conti Go in the front and maybe 2nd Conti Go on the back. I'm not sure if the rear tyre was replaced by the previous owner but it still has a significant amount of tread left and no cracks. The front needs to be replaced very soon as the tread is not in great condition and the tyre started showing cracks as soon as I started riding.
Will be changing the front first and then the rear with the same or similar tyre after some time as I want to use it a bit more.

Following are the options I am considering, please post any reviews/experience or other suggestions:

MRF Masseter: Produced in stock size for front and rear but having a hard time sourcing it as dealers are saying there is no stock from the company
Ceat Zoom Rad X1: Seems to be on the softer side but not available on the stock size for the rear
Apollo Alpha S1: Zero Degree Steel Belted, Radial and cheaper than the H1. I am not considering the H1 as it is slightly out of budget at around Rs.4500 for the front

Apollo S1 is available in 130/70 for the rear, does anyone have experience in downsizing here? I am not considering upsizing to 150/60 as I don't want manoeuvrability to be reduced but still, if anyone has good experience with it, please share.

Any other tire recommendations? I want radial tires especially at the back with a good dry/wet grip. The budget is <8K for the set of tires.

Thanks for the clarification on the engine heat. I have been riding around and rode for 100-150 km in a single stretch multiple times, the temperature does not show more than 3 bars even at high speeds.
Regarding the Oil, I am not using Shell Advance Ultra, I am on Shell Advance AX7 which is a Semi-Synthetic unlike the Advance Ultra.

Hello folks.

I ride a 2015 CBR250R, 49700kms odo. From the past 6-7 days i heard a strange whining noise from the engine when i accelerated the bike. Yesterday morning, i fired her up and i felt like something broke inside the engine, but i continued to ride, within 300 metres, the bike started sounding like a tractor. I suspected that the timing chain has gone loose or some problem with CCT as the bike was running just fine apart from the noise. I just faced hard gear shifts apart from the noise.

I took the bike to a nearby garage and asked the guy to check it out and kept the bike there till the.evening as i had some important work. The mechanic told me that the timing chain has broken and some links of the chain fell inside the crankcase.
The mechanic also told me that he needs to open the entire engine to see other damages, which i feel is not necessary. I think he might be doing it just to earn some extra money.

I have procured the necessary spare parts i.e timing chain, Head cover gasket, head gasket, right crankcase gasket, oil and coolant.

I need to know that are there any chances that the broken pieces of the chain can enter the cylinder block or gearbox? If that is so, then i might consider getting the engine thoroughly checked from a good mechanic.

Also is it really necessary to change both the rubber pads the hold the timing chain together as it is really hard to find these in the SVCs. Also please do share how much would be the cost of getting the above mentioned work done from a good SVC or a good garage. I am located in Pune.

Thanks.

Typically, engine temp goes to 3 bars in 5-6 minutes of riding and stays there. It is a problem only if it exceeds 3 bars. Check coolant level and ensure radiator fins aren't damaged. Also, regularly clean the radiator of dirt using a soft brush and be very gentle.

Shell Advance Ultra 10W40 is already a fully synthetic oil. Put in a new oil filter in every oil change.

Update on the 2011 CBR I bought:
The bike has been serviced and the oil leak was arrested using a liquid gasket maker. Headlight fairings were changed and also one more fairing part, the front mudguard also has a crack but it was out of stock at the distributor. I bought all the parts (service and replacement body parts) from a Honda Authorized Parts Dealer and alongside the amount paid to a local mechanic, it was a bargain compared to the ASC.
I have been riding the bike for a couple of months now and here are some problems that I have noticed:
1. Engine temperature gets to 3 bars on the indicators and stays there most of the time. Is this normal or should it be lower? The engine definitely feels hot
2. Gear shifts are slightly clunky, gets into neutral sometimes when getting into 2nd
3. Rear brake is not working that great, new brake pads should fix the issue
The bike has been running Shell Advance 10W40, will switch to a fully synthetic in the next service

You can't use Hornet disc plate on CBR, because i think Hornet never had abs on rear wheel and CBR (ABS MODEL) has abs pulse ring fixed on disc plate.