Re: Honda CBR 250R

Vibrations will be present even after changing to any oil after a while. Shell, Liqui Moly or Motul. I'd suggest you try Shell Advance Ultra FS or Liqui Moly both, if you want to try something different from Motul. Motul 7100 is also good.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hi,
Thanks for your answer.

I m confused between Motul 7100 and Shell Adv Ultra. So which one would be best. can u please suggest. what I m looking for is reduces noise,vibes in my engine but should have good pickup/acceleration.

Thanks
Souvik

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Stick will Shell.


Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

It's odd, I feel motul 300v feels smoothest on my bike .

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Guys small piece of advice, check your magnetic coil every 25k-30k km , I feel that's the average life of the part. This is what I've noticed .

Re: Honda CBR 250R

300v is not a street bike based usage centric. it's meant more for track use. The oil tends to vaporize more and is known to cause more gasket leaks in some biks(rear bajaj bikes).
Also drain intervals need ot be kep t much shorter, they do not last as much as the shell oil does.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Re: Honda CBR 250R

That's very odd because the last time I used the oil, it ran almost 5000kms, I mean there was no shortage of it as in , the oil level did not decrease, every other oil seems to lose its viscosity by 3000kms itself, probably due to my riding style. I didn't experience and leaks or vaporised oil , infact the oil level was the same when I checked.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

The coil fails as a result of bad battery. When a battery goes bad, there are two ways it fails. One Sulphation which makes internal resistance increase and thereby the CCA is greatly reduced. ...Another type of failure is the plates going short. Either the insulation between the plates breakdown or the the lead shed by the plates collect st the bottom leading to a shorting. It is this later condition which will increase the current taken by the battery, hence will put heavier load than design on RR and the coil...This leads to coil failures.

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The Shell Ultra Synthetic is a good choice and riders had used it 3,500 to 4,000 Kms.. The Shell Rimula R4 is also another choice and can be used upto 2,500 Kms in a better maintained engine.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Sir, I've used Shell Advance Ultra nothing less than 6000 Km each time & once had to use a little over 8000 Km out of compulsion. What matters most is, just like you advised, the oil top up has to be done periodically. That's the KEY to longevity.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I am in my home town because of corana ... I am not able to ride cbr for almost 30 days ...

Is battery charging essential after 30 days of stay idle....

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I have had the bike remain untouched for over 2-3 months and started right back with one touch of the button. That too on a stock battery when it was 3 years old. So if you haven't left the battery to die or run low before and battery is in good condition as of now it should hold charge. But make sure that once you do start it let the bike idle for some time and ride it a good bit so that it can charge itself up properly.

Attempting to start when battery is low can discharge the battery quickly even when it has enough juice to get the bike started and that is why running the bike / riding it for 30mins to an hour is important to get the battery charged back up. If you do not do this, the bike will start for one time, but the next time you try to start it it won't have enough cranking voltage in it.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Ride Safe & Stay Safe
Krishna

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Definitely warrants a start up and an idle of at least 5 to 10 mins with mild revs here and there. This would mean, the fuel is being used up and also there is no old fuel being stagnated in the tank. Cranking the bike every four days is a good procedure to follow during the lock down.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Start the bike once in 3 to 4 days and idle for 10 minutes. This should be adequate to protect against Sulphation...otherwise battery will suffer Sulphation and become bad.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hey guys. I've got a little issue with my bike thats not CBR250R but is its offroad twin CRF250L. I was going through the internet for days and you guys here seem to know your stuff, and since the important bits between bikes are the same I thought you might point me into the right direction, CRF250L forums are way less popular then this one.





On this video, engine is warm, first start went ok, second start when engine started both check engine and temp light turned on again, and went off after few seconds. While they were on RPM was slightly higher too.

This started happening after the bike's been sitting for 2 months over winter, with startup until fan kicks in every 2 weeks. Bike has 17 000km and is 4 years old, no damage or previous faults.

When I ride it happens only on startup when warm or hot engine, and doesnt happen always, just sometimes. It always goes to normal on its own like int he video, the bike is totally normal to drive regardless of way it started.

I've checked few grounds around the bike, voltages of battery and regulator, all good.
Also checked ECT resistance from hot to cold, nice linear, within spec. Checked ECT wires below main harness they are like new (bike is 2016). Checked O2 sensor, 0.95V hot. Checked voltage from ECM to ECT, 5.00V exactly with ECT disconnected. When I disconnect ECT it gives me code 7 on MIL, which I erased with paperclip on DLC connector. This problem from the video does not produce any error code. Also tried temporary disabling both clutch and sidestand switches.

When I move the wire harnes of ECT (whole harness moves a bit) I can provoke the problem to happen more or less often. However I cannot measure any fault with ECT or its wires. I've tried pulling a bit on ECT wires with ECT disconnected, and it also provoked the problem from the video with ECT not even connected while there was consistent 5.00V on its opened connector.

The thing that I'd like to know the most, and you guys might know it since PGM-FI is same stuff between these 2 bikes, is what can make check engine and temp light go on toghether like in the video while increasing rpm? What sensor, switch, something to measure? and it settles down on its own.. I'd like to find measurable error, cant find it anywhere. Only thing that I found is that sometimes pulling on ECT wires makes the problem happen or go away on next start, while not touching it makes it happen sometimes on rides, or not happen for weeks.

Is it possible that exit of wires from main harness that I expect is plastic hose, might be sharp and damaging to some wires like IACV or something? It all exits at same point I think. Didnt wanna open that up yet.

Any thoughts?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

From what I can infer from the video and from your narration, I find it hard to find fault with the bike. Your bike starts well, though the MIL and Temp show up in the second time, they turn off as they used to. This sometimes happens when a vehicle is started in quick succession. You have CODES registered in the ECM if you see the MIL light staying on even after the engine has started to fire up and run. The MIL lamp will be turned on indicating you have an error which requires it to be checked. Also, I think your battery can be trickle charged every every two days.
[MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, your thoughts please.

Cheers!
VJ