What he meant was the more you concentrate the weight on the front the more traction ur tyres get and thus it will be planted onto the road surface preventing you from sliding!

I usually measure disc-pad wear by noting the depth of the 'wear-marker central groove'. Seeing it at the pin end might be misleading. But in case the pad pin mount was resting against the caliper body when the pads were installed, then definitely the wear is unusually high. Of course irrespective of the high rate of wear of the pads, if there's lining material left on them, then they should be effective for braking.

There could be a few other reasons why you felt the braking was inadequate. That it is a design issue with the bike is something I find hard to accept as incidentally over the past week or so, I have been riding a friend's non-ABS CBR myself (one of the first one's to be delivered up North) and have not found anything amiss with the braking prowess of the bike.

Amongst the possible reasons are:

1. Air in the brake-system. Tie up your front brake lever overnight with a shoe-lace or something. The air inside will slowly rise to the reservoir by morning.

2. Warped disc. This will cause asymmetric brake pad contact and a part of the hydraulic pressure will initially go into deforming the pads to get full face contact between the disc and the pads. But this fault is easily detected by checking if there's more than slight contact between the pads and the disc when the wheel is freely rotated.

3. An internal bubble inside the brake line rubber. This is a near impossibility considering Honda's quality systems but then such a brake line defect will use up some brake fluid to squeeze that bubble before the pressure is transmitted to the brake pads. Result: spongy brakes that remain so even after repeated bleeding for air.

Ideally, it IS always about situational awareness and anticipation. I do appreciate the spirit in which you've taken the onus on yourself though.

Thanks Sarvajit. Yes, target fixation is a big issue and best 'unlearnt' through repeated practice. Check out stuff on this in the forthcoming Dec 2011 mag issue.

DS: It is not a question of 'avoiding' forward weight transfer when braking. That is an inevitable consequence of braking. And since friction between the tyre and the road depends directly upon the force with which the tyre is pressed onto the road (downward force or weight), an increase in weight means better traction and so better braking.

If what you mean is avoiding consciously leaning forward on the handlebars to add weight to the front, yes that would be quite unnecessary and would interfere adversely with your ability to handle the bike properly.

emergency braking


What I do is while braking I move a inch or two towards the tank so all the weight gets transferred to the front wheel and most of the braking depends on the front brake and I use the back brake just to avoid the bike from doing a stoppie.

Dear OF sir it is good to see your post after a long time....For me,the first braking lesson was that brakes cannot stop as we wish..the vehicle needs distance to do it...and hard braking leads to skidding,....I also learnt about brake fade with heat ,and wet condition,and to-day had become a defensive driver.
I also had my share of crashing into people and vehicle at intersection/crossings in road, WHENEVER I HAD EYE CONTACT . Now, I deliberately avoid it, and like you advised follow vehicles at the right or left edge of the vehicle.....
I always remember Murphy's Law..

OF Sir - I was talking to PSR Ji a while ago & we hit upon something that I didn't pen down here. After the service, I found the ply on front brake lever was about 7-8 mm compared to to earlier 2-5 mm & I wasn't comfortable with that. I was supposed to take it to ASC last Saturday (19/Nov), but then, HMSI had the Wings club card launch & promptly that one took priority. Would air bubbles cause this issue?

Yessir! good 'ol Murphy is never quite far out of earshot .

Could be air. Tie the lever as I've suggested in my previous post and if its air, tying will solve the issue. Could also be that for replacing old pads with new ones, the caliper pistons need to be pushed back to accommodate the greater thickness of the new pads. The first few applications of the brake takes up the extra 'push-back' of the pistons till they (the pistons) come in contact with the pads.

The beauty of hydraulics is that the system is self adjusting. Of course its is so within limits. But air and/or leaks are the greatest enemies. In a proper disc brake system, the lever should not feel spongy. The resistance to the 'squeeze' should grow progressively and it should be impossible to squeeze the lever beyond its half-way travel. If you can squeeze the lever right till the clip-ons, then there's something seriously wrong with the brake system.

I do +300 kms regularly on the bike now. The most I have done in a single tank is 350 kms. Don't remember how much I had to refuel though but it was still much lower than 12.59 ltrs. This was on the highways completely hence the reading.
Regularly do 300 atleast even in city so rest assured the bike can easily do 300kms even on the highway .
Last time I did 300kms in the city, I refueled around 10.5 ltrs so that gives me a mileage of 28.5!

Also, last week, I was banged into by a unicorn guy. His front tyre hit my rear tyre and I hardly felt the bump but the dude almost had a fall! Guess bike dynamics at play?

Ya doing 300 on the highways is not a problem at all. Not so much of a problem in the city either though unless you are in bumper to bumper traffic which even then will fetch me 325 kms on a full tank at 25 kmpl (which was my last recorded mileage on 4 days of continuous driving in bumper to bumper traffic).

Still to get used to this. And I have been in situations where I didn't quite comprehend the fact that there was still so much breaking left to be done just after the first slight pullback resulting in a massive frontend dive. I ride everyday in city to simply ensure I adapt to this as quickly as possible. I don't know any other way to comprehend besides by being aware of my bike's dynamics.

This is the case in my pulsar where the front lever can be pulled back all the way till the clipons! Yes, front pads need to be changed.

To all bikers IF U wanna QUIT Biking Buy a Bike from HMSI ( Honda Motorcycle and Scooter India ) and all the other things will fall in place.

NO SPARE PARTS NO NOTHING AVAILABLE FOR CBR 250

STARTER RELAY STUCK UP NO REPLACEMENT AVAILABLE
INDICATOR NOT AVAILABLE
MAG WHEELS NOT AVAILABLE
CHASSIS RUSTING
BOLTS RUSTING
REAR VIEW MIRRORS JAMMED
ETC....................

FIRST SERVICE
ABOVE ALL THESE THE SERVICE GUYS FORGET TO FILL UP COOLANT tHE RADIATOR IS DRY
AND THE BIGGEST CRIME OF ALL KEEP THE OIL DRAIN SCREW LOOSE DUE TO WHICH OIL KEEPS ON DRIPPING.

SECOND SERVICE

THE HANDLE IS KEPT LOOSE VERY LOOSE.


NONE OF THE FAULTS EXPLAINED HAVE BEEN SOLVED OR A SATISFACTORY ANSWER IS GIVEN

AND NOW IF I ASK FOR MY MONEY BACK FROM HONDA WHATS THE ISSUE ?????

here for you bro at last....the pics of paddock stand on my baby ceeber...price is around rs 1550-1800....excluding shipping..the asc here does not have paddock at present they had 7 pieces all of them are sold...more are coming in the next lot...sorry will have to wait till that time...

What spares are you looking?

What's the issue to replace this unit?

Did you meet with an accident to get the above parts?

Can you post a pic of the rusted chassis pls?

Like

And pls expand etc

Which dealership?

How did you notice & from where does the oil leak? Was it leaking all the way from first service to the second service

You mean the clip on or entire fork assy?

By whom? ASC or HMSI?

Whom did you approach for this? The dealer or HMSI? And did you ask them verbally or through court?

Last but not the least - Typing in capital is considered rude as yelling at people here. I hope you didn't want to yell at us!!!

Let me do it right now & keep posted the result by end of the day or after 12 hours.

This is precisely what PSR Ji also told me; but the technician at JSP is a very experienced & senior staff & has worked from the ages of Rx, KB, YBX & has graduated to C250R. So...I still doubt if he had overlooked anything

Yes sir; very right; I've experienced this while changing the brake pads last time on my Rx.

You mean there's a position at which the lever will not go beyond & its like touching a hard stone; if this is the case, sounds precise like my Gladiator disc assy.

No no; I don't think it will come until Clip on for sure.

Tks for the suggestions Sir; let me do it right away & post the results.

Yea I am also sure that in highways I can do 300kms with a tank full, at average speed of 110kmph.. But the behaviour of Fuel guage changes at its will this is what makes me worried..

Aah!!! That explains You gave me sleepless night & was wondering how could you get 300 Kms range with speeds of 130+!!! 110 perfectly possible.

Is this Venetian Honda by any chance?

Bought FS oil 10W30 from Jhaveri Honda, Cotton Green, Mumbai. Cost Rs.444 per bottle (even though MRP printed was 504). Got two bottles.

BTW, what is front fork overhaul?

Of course at 130+ there will be huge difference.. I said average 110 because we maintained 110kmph for most of the time.. and in the ride speed varied between 90-154...

What is the status of your ride?? If the Head light glass is broken, it is better not to ride because of the bugs and insects will get stuck to the bulb and reflector.