Still, Give it a shot. It may not be clear but might give a fairly good Idea!

i managed to click pics , the first one shows the rubber rail which has same thickness till it reaches end, second pic shows end which is higher thus provides better support to the chain and i can tell that till now i have not heard any chain noise while it may be early to say as i am just about to complete 100 kms on it

. This is 2nd report I read about snapping throttle cable. I hope U didnt pin it down everytime you ride

Can someone with a bike from new batch take a little better photo of this rubber rail and post it?
I'm booking my bike in 3 days in Chennai and I just want to be sure the bike I pick is from a new batch.

i believe you can check it as well before taking delivery.

I guess another thing to do on delivery is to ask them to change the oil to fully mineral since I want to do a proper fast mode run in. If I understood properly Bajaj oil is semi synthetic?
Will they have a fully mineral oil there in the service center or should I bring some from outside?

how "EYE OPENER" ???

Why the oil change? And to what oil? Gear shift is tough while breaking-in, you can clean the front sprocket area by yourself as the tools required are provided in the toolkit. There are a few pictures probably 20 pages earlier(im too lazy sorry). The gearbox is normally clunky when you first use it in the day/after a long period/when it is cold. Best is to shift gears before starting for the first time to get it smoother.
Oil change because initial kms add lots of metal filings kind of particle and some comparatively bigger ones as well in the engine which gets circulated in engine causing much harm to it , the engine then acts acts as a filer thus causing harm to engine, i have attached picture of drained engine oil from my bike at 65 km on Odo, which was shimmering black due to may be thousands of loose metal particles . Me and the SVC tech could not believe our eyes looking at the condition of the oil, hence i used the term ''EYE Opener '' , oil filter had even bigger particles lodged in it, small metal shards kind if part. SVC tech recommended motul 7100w as oil change, which i denied it being fully synthetic, then he told me that the bikes comes prefilled with dtsi 10000 oil hence i got it filled not being aware it is semi synthetic, i though if the oil is prefilled it should be mineral.
now after the oil change i am in two minds whether to let the oil remain or get it changed with mineral oil.
Also it brings up questions -
does the KTM duke actually comes with 10000 dtsi oil which is semi synthetic?
if it does comes with it, then is it not odd it being semi synthetic?
does ktm duke requires a slower running in process hence they put semi synthetic oil in it ?

also after the oil change the exhaust sound has lessened, which should have happened anyways, but i loved the loud exhaust and that halo banshee kind ogf sound which started from 5000 rpm, any way to get it back or will it get back ever?

also i feel pickup has gone down, the svc tech did say he adjusted clutch cable i dont know is that a reason for it?

also should i put mineral oil now and if yes then which one?




According to the manual 3 bars and below is low, 4-10 is normal and above that is high which the display shows. When the engine is cool it is recommended to rev gradually and keep it at lower revs while increasing the revs as the temperature increases. Coolant is not pumped before 3 bars, as the thermostat is supposed to restrict the flow of coolant on a cool engine. And the fan is turned on to enhance the working of the coolant to keep the engine at optimum running temperature which is after around 20 minutes of riding.

For the reduced pickup, you should have used mineral oil in the first 1000 kms as recommended by the manufacturer, even if you change the oil keep using mineral as synthetic oil/semi synthetic glazes your piston walls, decreasing engine efficiency/reduced performance & reduced mileage. It also highly depends on the way you are riding it, as it is the break-in period, and the method of break-in you are following...

I didn't get you. You changed the oil "again" at 65km? You mean you changed it to mineral straight out of showroom, and then back to dtsi at 65km?
No only once at 65kms and now it is 95 kms , eye opener just in sense of amount of metal present in the oil, so in positive sense, i am glad i changed oil, i am just confused regarding the kind of oil which i should let be in the engine, also since i have hardly been able to ride it at 6000 plus rpm mostly at 5,000 i dont think it will glaze engine.
I'm guessing this "eye opener" was in negative sense, since you earlier reported your pickup reduced when you did it?

Yeah, then I'll come to showroom with 2 liters of mineral oil (any suggestions anyone??) and change it either there or outside.

I did run ins in several bikes, few in "regular" way (usually don't rev it for "prolonged periods" more than 5000rpm for first 500km, and not more than 7000rpm for next 500km, one time with Motoman's way, but the best results (best pickup and performance) were when I did the run in in 250-300km, and that to change revs all the time, rev it to higher rpms with proper load, but only for short time, and then reduce speed with engine breaking. And most importantly not overheat the engine, so making at least 10-15min breaks quite often. And change oil at 100 or max 150km. Even when I changed oild when I was doing regular run in (at some 300-400km) the engine felt so much better and lighter, as if it was choking before the oil change with all that heaviness from tiny metal particles from new engine...
I am following exactly similar method till now from zero kms on odo, i sue engine braking, varying rpm, did not cross 7,000 rpm till now and warm in engine atleast for two mins basically till three bars or four bars , maximum i have ridden at stretch is for 30 mins.
If you don't push your engine at least every now and then to higher revs then the engine simply won't break in. How can it break in with babying the bike and keeping it below 5k rpms???
Especially the Duke...

sometimes, my duke will have no response for a half of a second when i wring the throttle at 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear at below 7k rpm. this happens after i downshift from a higher gear. i just re-wring the throttle and the engine grunts a response again. not really much of a problem, but i do feel kind of worried.
i've already completed running in last month, with no crossing 7k rpm or full wringing of the throttle. this problem didn't appear during the running in period.

oh and one more thing, can u guys post your average kmpl? not the one on the console, but the mileage that u calculate yourself based on km done from last refuelling.

ya man..i am also facing this..also in the headlight area..
will post a pic if possible...

Hi there everybody.

So finally after lot of research, reading reviews and after two test rides, I have been duked! Got my Duke 200 in the morning. I had booked it yesterday and had made the full payment (i.e. Rs. 135900). I had choosen the bike yesterday only but somehow forgotten to note down the odo reading (excitment I guess). But checked it first thing today morning and it was just 3kms on the odo. Bajaj SVC person filled 2 lits of petrol. The bike was not washed and it had lot of dust on it. Immediately took the bike to washing. After a quick water wash and subsequent air drying, the bike was gleaming. After that I checked everthing on the bike, like the switchgear, chain lubrication, any rusting on nuts and bolts, etc. Everthing was alright. Finally Mr. Pragnesh Jani, KTM showroom manager who was there all the time, gave some instructions on the instrument console and also about how to ride properly in the first 1000kms. Everthing done went straight to the petrol station, filled up 500/- worth of xtra premium. Everybody was just staring at this strange looking bike After that took a slightly longer route back home. The bike felt really nice and very easy to ride through traffic. Some pics of the Duke 200.









I will regularly post here on my riding experiences. Thanks to the superb xBhp review of the Duke and the ownshership thread here, I am now a kaatoomer...

I just read this really nice article about engine break in from Power To The Rider. It explains everything in a very easy and detailed way.

The dilemma of 'Engine Break-in'

Not to mention their excellent video review of Duke that can be found on
KTM Duke 200

I just read this really nice article about engine break in from Power To The Rider. It explains everything in a very easy and detailed way.

The dilemma of 'Engine Break-in'

Not to mention their excellent video review of Duke that can be found on
KTM Duke 200

should i opt for motul synthetic oil during first service or get a mineral one ??
i was told that motul 7100 will make the gear shifts very smooth ... is it true ?

should i opt for motul synthetic oil during first service or get a mineral one ??
i was told that motul 7100 will make the gear shifts very smooth ... is it true ?

My advise will be to stick with Mineral/SS for the 1st change, and then go for FS on the 2nd change.

My advise will be to stick with Mineral/SS for the 1st change, and then go for FS on the 2nd change.

I can vouch for Motul 300V and 7100, they make the bike very smooth. However, during running in it's best to stick to Mineral oil. Change to Fully Synthetic after 2500Kms atleast on ODO.