If you go for Mineral or SS oil, then you have to change it before the first service. If u go for mineral, it would be better if u change it Max by 1k kms, and not wait for 3.5k kms.
Can't say abt good mineral oil.Will do the research once i get my bike.
How much kms have u covered up?

around 800kms on odo

well theres one of the myths in the auto world that "You should break in your engine with
conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil"

reality is choose a good oil no matter even if its synthetic or a mineral oil...even big oil companies like Mobil suggest using synthetic oils.even during break-in.
what personally i think is synthetic is a lil slippery as compared to mineral oils..so during engine break-in....it might wont be able to get past the break in operation and allow the piston rings to seal properly...
id prefer using mineral first than synthetic...just to be a little cautious...coz its better to be safe than sorry.

The main reason for using mineral during break-in (not a myth) is that the individual molecules in the natural stuff are very irregular, so they don't lubricate quite as efficiently. During break-in, it's actually better to allow the various internal surfaces to bang against each other a bit to remove imperfections and remnants of the machining process. Additionally, mineral oils tend not to have some of the more sophisticated lubricant additive packages that the more expensive synthetic stuff does, so it doesn't leave any kind of protective coating on the engine internals, thus allowing them to come into contact with each other a bit more, particularly during cold-start and under stress.

Of course the oil makers recommend using their (most expensive) synthetics even during break-in; they're not responsible for your engine internals if they don't properly seat. They make a lot more money on the synthetic stuff, as the profit margin is higher.

Reliable anecdotes from engine builders I have talked with or worked with have confirmed that engines run on synthetic right from mile 1 have been opened up thousands of miles later to reveal parts still not properly worn in. Piston rings are the biggest victim, but bearings and gear drives are also affected. However, engines broken in for the first 2000 miles or so on mineral, then switched to synthetic, have looked perfectly broken-in and otherwise unworn even tens of thousands of miles later.

For reference, I'll be getting a Duke here in a couple of months, and will be running it on pure mineral oil to at least 3000km before switching. I'll do the same for the Hayabusa I'll be buying in a year or so.

if possible get motul 3000... Its arguably the best mineral oil available here.... Too good for the price...

KTM India introduces Raceline Stickers for 200 Duke | Motoroids
I dont know if it already available or not, but i simply loved the rear numberplate holder and the front petal disc... Too sexy...

Guys this thread is not about Hayabusa. Kindly stick to the topic or be prepared to face the action.

now i have used bajaj SS oil which came from factory , so wont it be a problem if i switch to mineral from SS ? ..

prices for those race stickers are very high .. heard that they charge 1.6k additionally for applying them.. that rear fender will throw up lot of slush on both rider and pillion during rain ...

The headlight looks different too..

yaah bro...even i as i said..will use mineral first..rather than using synthetic oil ....i read a lot of stuff about this being a myth over internet...and yeah u might be right about the marketing stuff for selling their products...i mentioned it there..that i feel too personally that the synthetic might not work.....id b using mineral for breaking for my duke too....bro...and.its gudd...ill be happy to see u buy the duke...infact ive booked one....hopefully ill get a call in a day or two.

yeah i know it will throw a lot of mud but it looks ultra hot...wont be a prblem for summer and winter i guess... additional 1.6k for sticking the stickers... Its better if i stick them myself and get 1.6k discount
AFAIK there wont be any problem in switching from bajaj oil to motul 3000... The bajaj oil is the worst oil... You can easily change it outside...
Motul 3000- mineral
Motul 3100- ss(without esters)
Motul 5100- ss(single ester)
Motul 7100- fs(single ester)
Motul 300v- fs(double ester)

Is Motul 3000 20w50? KTM recommends only 20w50 for the duke, but on the website its says that its 20w40.
Click the link below
3000 4T Plus 20W40

AFAIK its also available in w50 grade... not sure... Ninja 250 guys can confirm that... What is grade in ninja...? Some ninja owners pour this oil and talk a lot bout its qualities

Rishi, there will be a list of things mentioned on the back of the service coupon... top of my min

1. Oil
2. Oil Filter
3. Air Filter
4. Spark Plug
5. Fuel Filter - Not sure where this is though..

I am not sure if you have to replace anything else.. just check the service coupon... and ensure they plug the ECU and run a diagnostic test or something.. this seems to be missing for us in Chennai..

the probiking svc here only stock motul 7100 , 300v and bajaj dtsi 10000 oil.. what to do ?

Purchase from outside.
Otherwise both the Motul variants they store are FS. In that case Dtsi is your only option left.