So make it go RPM in 2nd and 3rd gear na? In any engine? Can I do it my NS? He is @ 320 km now.. ?

since many guys here have broke in the engine conventional way and motoman way...what is the final conclusion drawn??does doing it conventional manual way give less power but proper FE or doing moto man way good power and low FE...or it doesnt matter how engine is runned in..it will give proper power and FE if the running is in done properly?

I've run in my engine the ktm way( intially upto 5krpm for first 2-300 kms but gradually increasing to 7-8krpm). I get proper performance, touched top speed of 139kmph yet and get mileage in range of 30-42.

mine is 750kms old and i make sure that i dont stress the engine .. i have never crossed 7000rpm .. i allow the engine to remain at idle for 2 mins during morning starts ,, then accelerate gradually till the temp level gets to half way stage ... i ride it mostly in city so that requires too many gear shifts and varying speeds .. my shift light comes on at 5000rpm and i use that to upshift ..only on 1st and 2nd gears i shift up within 4000rpm ..
i will gradually breach 7000rpm after first service ...currently i am getting better mileage than my previous fz in city with obviously way better power and fun...

Ha ha ; LOL

After being run in a few bikes, both two strokes and four strokes. I have come to a conclusion that running-in is pretty much
- Riding in an appropriate gear: Higher gear+ lower rpms results in lugging and lower gear + higher rpms results in redlining. Though redlining is considered to be ok, lugging is a strict NO. Redlining needs to be in a much relaxed, building rpms progressively and gradually. One also needs to know the max speed the bike can go in each gear. Duke being a short geared bike, one needs to shift earlier. Low end torque and short gearing goes hand in hand. In simple terms if a bikes power band starts at higher rpms then it needs to employ tall gears. Short gear on a high torque bike will not allow one to exploit the power band.
- Top end needs to be restricted to a certain km/hr. It depends up on the bike. Modern technology employs much advanced honing methods unlike ancient days. So it is quite debatable.
- Occasionally varying the rpms by shifting up and down and not riding at a constant speeds. Acceleration and deceleration should be done using the throttle in a gradual manner.
- Riding the bike exactly like the way You would be riding it in its entire lifetime. The bike gets adapted to the rider's riding style and it transforms itself to whatever the rider makes it.

Things needs to kept in mind during running in and post run in

- Bringing the bike to its operating temp. Idling for a couple of mins before taking off and riding it sanely for a few kms or approx 10 mins.
- Make sure that engine is getting enough oil: Four strokes and two strokes have different lubrication systems. Quality can never substitute quantity.

All the running in procedures talks about the same, pretty much in their own way.

whoa dude....dont panic lets take walk ill tell u how these things work...ill buy you a beer.
just kidding bro...but u cant deduce your results based on art of viewing things with a magnifying glass....i mean yaah one in a million throttle cables snaps accidently thats not a big deal....its good to be that perceptive but it doesnt means the "throttle wires are weak"...i mean(actually we mean) cmon...!

ohh sure bro...any bike...any new bike or a new rebored engine. Also this whole breaking in thing is not that bigger deal....just dont baby it too much neither run it hard...as it needs to be adequate...but dont keep a constant throttle for a very long time...vary it constantly coz keeping a constant throttle position for a long time heats up the exhaust port to high temperatures.

Hmm okay bro. Thanks

Well thats a very subjective thing to say. In my KTM the throttle cable was weak and it could have snapped probably because it was not fit properly or hey maybe it just had enough of my constant blipping the throttle. But after owning the KTM 200 DUKE since FEb 29th 2012 I have a lot of confidence in the quality of products Bajaj is employing on not just the KTM 200 DUKE but even the Pulsar 200NS. A majority of the components and even the styling in all of Bajaj products are surpassing the likes of even Honda now. They were the first to introduce the backlit switches, modern looking mag wheels and digital consoles so I really respect them as a company now. All I'm saying is that if a few cables snap it's just a minor setback.

MIVV Exhaust on Duke 200

Enjoy the soundclip

Duke 200 + MIVV Suono Carbon by Custom World Indonesia

Turn up your volume!!

Nicely said...


Posts above this one explain it all nicely, but just to add few more details.
Splendor and KTM (along with R15, CBR and other modern higher performance bikes) have a very different RPM range and different engines.
And usually, when run in is finished, you don't ride such bikes in a same way as you ride Splendor. You ride them much more in higher rpms. For that reason the engine (piston rings in fact) needs to be set to such kind of riding. Actually, if you plan in ripping your bike a lot later then it would be better if you push your revs closer to redline (but not all the way) during the run in. If you plan in riding your bike as Splendor after the run in then it's probably better if you push your occasional revs only to 7-8,000 rpms. Basically run in your engine the way you plan on using it...

Run in is actually all about making piston rings set properly against cylinder wall so that there is no leakage between. In the new engine those parts don't fit against each other perfectly. Ideally, those metal parts should shape themselves in a way that will leave no gap when they hit each other. If they get set perfectly to each other that would give the best performance and also the best mileage as well.

Now, if you just think logically in order for those metal parts to shape themselves in a perfect way there has to be a substantial pressure in the engine to shape those parts when they hit each other. If there is not enough pressure (read low rpms or even higher rpms without any load) then this can not happen. These parts will just get glazed against each other during the run in time and piston rings won't be aligning perfectly against cylinder walls in future. This happens when you baby your bike, when you always keep it at low rpms.

On the other hand, if you rip your new bike to redline for longer time and overheat it then you'll have opposite problem, you could have an engine seizure or the heat might simply shape the internals in a way that will reduce the performance and mileage.

It's also important to understand that revving the engine to high rpms in neutral won't do the trick because engine needs to be under proper load.
Lagging the engine (riding in high gears in low speed) is actually worse for run in than ripping your bike.
Ripping isn't the thing that will damage the engine, it is the heat. For that reason they say in different manuals not to ride the bike in high rpms for prolonged periods of time.

1000 km is not a magical figure. Run in is complete only when piston rings fully take their new shape against cylinder walls, when they stop shaping, whenever that might be.
If you baby your engine till 1000 km and then start redlining it for prolonged time after it it certainly won't do any good to your bike because there's a good chance the piston rings still haven't fully settled.
There has to be gradual procedure, whatever the procedure it is. Even if you choose to baby your bike (which no one recommends) then start increasing the rpms gradually after 1000 km.

Whatever run in way you choose just don't overheat the engine. That's probably the most important thing in whole run in...
And because it's liquid cooled it's better to switch it off when it gets quite hot, at least during the run in.

Anyone else here facing an issue with fogging of the pilot lamp(lower half of the headlight assembly)? ...

Hi there everybody.

So finally after lot of research, reading reviews and after two test rides, I have been duked! Got my Duke 200 in the morning. I had booked it yesterday and had made the full payment (i.e. Rs. 135900). I had choosen the bike yesterday only but somehow forgotten to note down the odo reading (excitment I guess). But checked it first thing today morning and it was just 3kms on the odo. Bajaj SVC person filled 2 lits of petrol. The bike was not washed and it had lot of dust on it. Immediately took the bike to washing. After a quick water wash and subsequent air drying, the bike was gleaming. After that I checked everthing on the bike, like the switchgear, chain lubrication, any rusting on nuts and bolts, etc. Everthing was alright. Finally Mr. Pragnesh Jani, KTM showroom manager who was there all the time, gave some instructions on the instrument console and also about how to ride properly in the first 1000kms. Everthing done went straight to the petrol station, filled up 500/- worth of xtra premium. Everybody was just staring at this strange looking bike After that took a slightly longer route back home. The bike felt really nice and very easy to ride through traffic. Some pics of the Duke 200.









I will regularly post here on my riding experiences. Thanks to the superb xBhp review of the Duke and the ownshership thread here, I am now a kaatoomer...

ya man..i am also facing this..also in the headlight area..
will post a pic if possible...