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Honda CBR 150 R

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  • Originally posted by somen1984 View Post
    But I think you should change it again. As engine takes to set up, so 1st service is determined at particular kms.
    It's nice if you do it.
    This week end I will do a service for my bike

    Comment


    • Chain Cleaning & Lubrication

      • Bike Chain - Cleaning & Lubrication
        Important: Wear safety gloves & eye wear and keep your fingers away from moving sprocket.

        Follow these instructions when the engine is cool.

        1) Place bike on main stand, fire-up engine, and shift to first gear.

        2) Spray WD-40 generously between the link plates and not just on the rollers and pins.
        Note: hold a cardboard in a manner that it shields the rear disc from any overspray from both the WD-40 spray can and the lubricant spray can later.

        * Best position for spraying is the back of the rear sprocket, one side of the chain, at a time.
        * Use the light green colored chain split link lock as an indicator for each loop cycle of the chain.
        * Let the wheel rotate with engine running in first gear on main stand for a few minutes.
        * This helps WD-40 to penetrate the dirt and grime on the chain.
        * Using WD-40 when the chain is cool prevents it from penetrating the O-Rings.

        3) Kill engine and shift to neutral.

        4) Use a discarded toothbrush to scrub on, below and between the chain link plates to remove all dirt.

        5) Fire-up engine again and shift to first gear.

        6) Spray WD-40 generously between the link plates, this time, till it starts dripping.

        7) Let the chain rotate in first gear on main stand for another few minutes.

        8) You can run the engine in high gear on main stand for a few minutes.

        * This will forcefully remove excess WD-40, muck, dirt, grime and slime on and in between the chain link plates.

        9)Switch off the engine and put the bike in neutral.

        10) Wipe clean chain with an absorbent cotton cloth sprayed with WD-40.

        * The lettering in bold is for those following instructions 9-12 consecutively.

        Important: Keep your fingers away from moving sprocket.

        * After the static high-gear run, the engine gets hot and the chain gets warm.

        11) Kill engine and shift to neutral.

        12) Lubricate with your choice of chain lube, in between each chain link plate while chain is still warm.

        * Best position for lubrication is the back of the main sprocket, one side of the chain, at a time.
        * Use the light green colored chain split link lock as an indicator for each loop cycle of the chain.
        * Let the lube soak-in as it cools overnight, the lube penetrates better.
        * If you do not want to lube the chain frequently, use EP140 gear oil.
        * Use EP90 gear oil if you can spare some time to lube your chain regularly.

        Please note:

        * For really dirty chains and those who have used chain sprays and grease, use steps 1-12 just the first time.
        * Thereafter, use steps 9-12 at regular odometer intervals.
        * For new bikes and clean chains, follow steps 9-12 only at regular odometer intervals.
        * Follow these instructions at regular intervals of your odometer reading just as an oil change interval.
        * Follow this chain maintenance procedure to always keep your O-Ring chain clean and optimized.

        Important tips:

        * Using discarded engine oil on your O-Ring chain shows poor disregard for an important component of your bike.
        * Apply chain lube after a ride, while the chain is warm, and soaks in as it cools.
        * Keep in mind that the lube has to cling-on specifically to the O-Rings and the chain in general.
        * The O-Rings should ideally be moist with lube for the chain to perform optimally.
        * WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement, same as in moisture removal.
        * WD-40 is used as cleaner and not as lubricant; when the chain is cool, to prevent penetration inside the O-Rings.
        * After cleaning and thoroughly wiping off WD-40, the chain is sufficiently lubed.
        * Keep the lube & cleaner away from the tire rubber, alloys, brake disc & pads.
        * Do not use any abrasive solvents, detergents, scrubs or metallic brushes on the chain.
        * Diesel is definitely preferable over Kerosene.
        * Do not grease an O-Ring chain.
        * Most chain lube sprays are, lube based super sticky glues or so they seem (in my opinion).
        * Just as engine oil is changed at regular odometer intervals, the chain should be lubed too at similar intervals.
        * O-Ring chains are factory lubed internally and sealed.
        * Its better to follow the recommendations of an O-Ring chain manufacturer than that of a bike manufacturer.
        * Any lube that is not too sticky and gummy like the Bajaj chain spray is preferable.

        The above instructions, coupled with the images attached below, are simple, straight forward and don’t involve any messy procedures. You don't need to use WD-40, just be certain that whatever you choose to use is an "O-Ring safe" cleaner. I have also specifically mentioned the use of any lube of your choice.
        I realised I should have taken some pictures after I finished the task and took the bike for a ride. I was amazed at the difference it made. No more jingling chain sound and it seemed super smooth. Will post a picture of the drive chain atleast now. Looks like new and performs amazingly well. The only place you will find traces of oil still clinging on, is between the two links on the O-rings.

        One more important point, in my opinion, this is also the safest, fastest and cleanest procedure. (Except for the dripping WD-40, a blackened toothbrush & cloth)

        List of the items used:

        a) Safety glasses which I already had.
        b) Safety gloves for Rs.51/-
        c) Lint free cloth for Rs.15/- * Youcould use a large sized sponge too - same price.
        d) Small WD-40 can for Rs.55/-
        e) HP EP90 Gear Oil for Rs.81/- for 500ml.

        Two questions for all of you:

        Q1) What can be an ideal lube for an O-ring drive chain? That's of course apart from all those lubricating sprays like Zorrick & WD-40, all chain sprays and all gear oils!!!

        Q2) What would be the most important function of a o-ring drive chain lube apart from lubricating the chain?

        Hope this helps.










        (COPIED FROM ANOTHER THREAD: THANKS TO OMEGA MAN )


      Last edited by jomindolges; 03-20-2013, 06:20 PM.
      LivE 2 RiDE ....


      sigpic


      Honda CBR 150R (2012)
      Bajaj Pulsar (2007 - 12)
      Honda Shine (2006 - 07)

      Page for CBR 150R Owners
      https://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda...00758560033559


      Comment


      • Originally posted by somen1984 View Post
        Normally We should avoid any long ride before 1000k kms/ 1st service, as bike is new and it needs some time to get tuned/set.

        Always carry a chain lubrication spray with yourself while long rides and get it lubes in every 500-600kms. Else this will cost to your chain and sprockets.

        Come one share your experience with the ride of about 840kms ?? from 320kms on odo??
        1. Comfort
        2. Handling
        3. Braking
        4. mileage etc etc...

        I would recommend it is very necessary to cover your first service kms religiously, riding less than mentioned kms and getting serviced is like a compromise.

        I hope you will make an oil change now again as it's more than 1K kms(BTW what is the 1st service kms ?) and your bike will be already set/tuned to normal.
        I too did a long drive under 1000kms in my bike. I did my first service at 438 km and then took off to a 660 km ride. I didnt find any problems since I varied rpm`s and never crossed 90 km/hr. If we keep to normal driving, I dont think its a problem. I lubed my chain only after 1800 kms. I got a max mileage of 47km/l in the return journey.
        Sometimes you gotta run before you can walk ! - Tony Stark

        Sometimes in Driving, being patient for a matter of seconds can save your LIFE!

        Comment


        • Originally posted by somen1984 View Post
          It's better if you get it check in SVC, but check the following
          Which fuel do you use ? If the fuel is adulterated or doubted then try to refuel it from some trusted bunk and check.
          Check for the tyre pressures as well.
          Check for the free play of tyres both. Both should rotate freely.

          Be sure it's an issue, coz R15 and CBR 150 acts after higher rpms only. So it's better check with some other CBR 150 before pressing the panic button in SVC.

          Yeah will check the above mentioned things !!
          Thank you very much ..

          Comment


          • Is there anybody here from Trivandrum ? can you please let me know which service center is good in Trivandrum for cbr 150r ....

            Comment


            • Originally posted by jomindolges View Post
              • Bike Chain - Cleaning & Lubrication.......

              Good Add it to your signature so any person can have a look on it and won't have to search here and there.

              Other way what I do:

              I keep washing my bike in every 7-10 days and I asked the washer man to spray water on chain, which almost clears the chain. And later I spray the Chain lube.
              Don't know what really difference does it makes with chain cleaner Vs high pressure water ?
              Din't see any issues with my chain yet. And I get it set in every 500-650kms.

              Originally posted by mulli84 View Post
              I too did a long drive under 1000kms in my bike. I did my first service at 438 km and then took off to a 660 km ride. I didnt find any problems since I varied rpm`s and never crossed 90 km/hr. If we keep to normal driving, I dont think its a problem. I lubed my chain only after 1800 kms. I got a max mileage of 47km/l in the return journey.
              But it's better to be on safer side bro...

              Runin is a debatable topic where people have set their mind. But engine oil is better if you change it in 1000kms, or if you have done it little before then I think we should do it again by 1000km to 1200kms.

              While virgin run/runin engine discards some filaments/ particals while getting accustom to the heat and wear n tear. So this is better if you do it in 500kms and 1000-1200kms. These help in healthy engine at initial period.

              As far as issues are concern, It is same on riding style and technique..Some lose Disc Pads/Chain sprocket/ tyres very earlier where as some last it more than others... all on riding style

              Comment


              • Hi friends today i saw orange blade near tenkasi.is that any one from our group?

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Born2win View Post
                  Hi friends today i saw orange blade near tenkasi.is that any one from our group?
                  When and where ?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Prashu_l View Post
                    When and where ?
                    Near tenkasi dude..Tamilnadu tirunelveli district.

                    Comment


                    • Hi I can hear some whistle sound in my bike. The sound is like a beep started and never ends until I turn off the ignition

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Prashu_l View Post
                        Hi I can hear some whistle sound in my bike. The sound is like a beep started and never ends until I turn off the ignition
                        Thats the sound of fuel pump priming the fuel in the engine.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Prashu_l View Post
                          Hi I can hear some whistle sound in my bike. The sound is like a beep started and never ends until I turn off the ignition
                          Its the injector dude... Dont worry it will vanish after a few hundred KMS....

                          Cheers
                          Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "

                          sigpic

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by siddharthsure View Post
                            Its the injector dude... Dont worry it will vanish after a few hundred KMS....

                            Cheers
                            Vanish? It will never!

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by siddharthsure View Post
                              Its the injector dude... Dont worry it will vanish after a few hundred KMS....

                              Cheers
                              Already 1000 kms over....

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Sushrut View Post
                                Vanish? It will never!
                                Hi I have a doubt...
                                If I suddenly close the throttle in 2 nd or 3rd gear I hear some strange noise and vibration from my bike. The sound is like some metal rubbing and vibrating.
                                What can it be

                                Comment

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