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They say that the piston and cylinder block needs to be replaced along with camshafts and valves.
I don't see any physical damage on piston or block, but the service manager claims they need to be replaced.
I'm not sure how to handle this situation, the head mechanic over there resigned and the workmanship of other mechanics is doubtful.
I've asked him to document everything so that I can take it up with KTM and ask them for a proper reason for failure.
By this time his tone changes and asked me to confirm If I want to take it up with KTM or get the work done as paid service.
I specifically asked him if they did a proper diagnosis for which there is no reply, he insists on parts change.
Documenting is a good idea, just in case you run up to any problems in the future after the installation. Yes, the change in tone is a common practice, people get easily offended and we don't want them to go over the roof especially when we have a major work to be done. Document everything, keep it handy. Do keep us posted on the progress. Best of luck.
Sudden change in events - involved the zonal service manager and now it needs only piston ring change after inspection and bike is promised for tomorrow.
This is exactly why I mentioned thorough inspection before opening up. Keep us updated.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
Get your battery terminals checked for any loose contact. If your starter is spinning fine, the engine starts and then coughs to a stop, check your fuel level, low fuel level too can cause stuttering and stalling. If the terminals are fine and this issue still repeats, then we can look at fueling itself.
Cheers!
VJ
Thanks for the response.
Some more updates :
1. The bike always starts perfectly if not kept in gear. So I guess battery terminals are good.
2. The engine coughs and stops only when started in gear and the temperature bar is just 2 bars below the gap in the gauge. Can hot starts be a problem when staying in gear?
3. Post reading your suggestion, I tested the same on full tank of fuel, and it still persists.
Thanks for the response.
Some more updates :
1. The bike always starts perfectly if not kept in gear. So I guess battery terminals are good.
2. The engine coughs and stops only when started in gear and the temperature bar is just 2 bars below the gap in the gauge. Can hot starts be a problem when staying in gear?
3. Post reading your suggestion, I tested the same on full tank of fuel, and it still persists.
Cheers,
Nawaz
Hot starts shouldn't be a problem as long as high temperature coolant sign is showed on the console. With regards to engine coughing up only during started in gear, how well does your bike start when the side stand is down. Does it repeat the same issue, like coughing up and stalling?
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
Hot starts shouldn't be a problem as long as high temperature coolant sign is showed on the console. With regards to engine coughing up only during started in gear, how well does your bike start when the side stand is down. Does it repeat the same issue, like coughing up and stalling?
Cheers!
VJ
The console does not show "High Coolant Temperature" fortunately. Also, I recently flushed the old coolant, and put in fresh, 2 weeks back at the SVC.
It starts both on Neutral and Gear with the Side Stand down, as I had installed a Side Stand sensor "Bypass" device right after purchase of the bike almost a year ago.
The console does not show "High Coolant Temperature" fortunately. Also, I recently flushed the old coolant, and put in fresh, 2 weeks back at the SVC.
It starts both on Neutral and Gear with the Side Stand down, as I had installed a Side Stand sensor "Bypass" device right after purchase of the bike almost a year ago.
Cheers,
Nawaz
A friend of mine got Stalling issue because of side stand sensor mishap. His stand broke recently and he got the issue after the replacement. After a while they identified and fixed it.
A friend of mine got Stalling issue because of side stand sensor mishap. His stand broke recently and he got the issue after the replacement. After a while they identified and fixed it.
If the issue is with sidestand will not it show in the console 🤔
The console does not show "High Coolant Temperature" fortunately. Also, I recently flushed the old coolant, and put in fresh, 2 weeks back at the SVC.
It starts both on Neutral and Gear with the Side Stand down, as I had installed a Side Stand sensor "Bypass" device right after purchase of the bike almost a year ago.
Cheers,
Nawaz
If you are having trouble starting or the bike is having trouble starting with the gear, I'd recommend you to check your sidestand sensor, remove and connect it to to OEM wiring and observe if the bike coughs or stutters.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
Sudden change in events - involved the zonal service manager and now it needs only piston ring change after inspection and bike is promised for tomorrow.
great.
the reason i think the block doesnt give up as easily is because it has a special coating (Nikasil - Nickel Silicon Carbide)on it.
it's mostly the piston rings or the valve seals that are a culprit for oil consumption. to reduce internal friction, manufacturer's are adopting thinner rings and eventually these seem to be the first to give up, but alas our mechanics don't bother to do any troubleshooting and simply replace the entire set (and go on to say 'piston' rings are not sold separately)
If you are having trouble starting or the bike is having trouble starting with the gear, I'd recommend you to check your sidestand sensor, remove and connect it to to OEM wiring and observe if the bike coughs or stutters.
Cheers!
VJ
Thanks, I will try it and post the feedback[emoji106]
Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences
Hey guys I have just bought a 2013 duke 390 from sai service The ODO shows 16000 kms and the bike has always been used as a test drive vehicle. So I understand that the bike would not be in the best condition but I got it for a very good price. Sharing some pics as I would like to know from the experts as to what all I should check as am taking delivery tomorrow. One area of concern that am worried about is the fuel injection light keeps going on and off but the vc guy said this the case with the bike since day one, and they also said that it cannot be fixed as they have tried everything possible. Otherwise the bike rides well but I have always owned 200 cc pulsars so wish to know what all can I do/check to ensure smooth ownership. Thank you.
1984 YEZDI 250 CLASSIC My dads SBK 1987 YEZDI 250 CLII On a Vacation!!!!
2005 Pulsar 150 UG 2 with ma cousin 2006 Pulsar 180 UG 3 - For Experimenting 2007 Pulsar 220 DTS-Fi SOLD 2010 Pulsar 220 DTS-i - Sold 2015 PULSAR AS 200 - Sold
2013 KTM DUKE 390 - Current Ride
Hey guys I have just bought a 2013 duke 390 from sai service The ODO shows 16000 kms and the bike has always been used as a test drive vehicle. So I understand that the bike would not be in the best condition but I got it for a very good price. Sharing some pics as I would like to know from the experts as to what all I should check as am taking delivery tomorrow. One area of concern that am worried about is the fuel injection light keeps going on and off but the vc guy said this the case with the bike since day one, and they also said that it cannot be fixed as they have tried everything possible. Otherwise the bike rides well but I have always owned 200 cc pulsars so wish to know what all can I do/check to ensure smooth ownership. Thank you.
From what I can see from the pictures, especially coming to your last picture, you can see the engine mount is cracked (that aluminum cast Y part) is cracked which means it can give up any time during riding. Front fender mud flap is missing, lots of oil leak near the left crank case and there is a head gasket weep, and wiring has been frayed as I can see blue taping towards the right, these are the things I can see with the pics and the angles you have taken. With regards to fuel injection or MIL lamp that keeps glowing on the console, get the wiring checked and check if there are any error codes in the ECU and erase them.
Check the engine oil level, coolant level, chain life before taking delivery, make sure they are adequate and to the right level. Check your ABS unit for proper working of the unit. Though I understand you're getting it at a attractive price point, try and avoid test rides, as there are high probability they might have been crashed. Check the VIN number and cross check with the RC papers.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
One area of concern that am worried about is the fuel injection light keeps going on and off but the vc guy said this the case with the bike since day one, and they also said that it cannot be fixed as they have tried everything possible.
You ought to have them connect the diag tool and run a check. it might show up what the issue is.
definitely a risk buying something that has a known issue.. because these are difficult to fix if stranded in remote location. so it's better you understand what is causing that warning light to come up.
it could a wiring issue, bad battery, some bad sensor, or a problem in the fi (not enough pressure?). ask them to connect their diag tool and check, and you keep an eye on the diag tool since these guys will simply clear the error without fixing it and show you that the diag tool reports no errors.
From what I can see from the pictures, especially coming to your last picture, you can see the engine mount is cracked (that aluminum cast Y part) is cracked which means it can give up any time during riding. Front fender mud flap is missing, lots of oil leak near the left crank case and there is a head gasket weep, and wiring has been frayed as I can see blue taping towards the right, these are the things I can see with the pics and the angles you have taken. With regards to fuel injection or MIL lamp that keeps glowing on the console, get the wiring checked and check if there are any error codes in the ECU and erase them.
Check the engine oil level, coolant level, chain life before taking delivery, make sure they are adequate and to the right level. Check your ABS unit for proper working of the unit. Though I understand you're getting it at a attractive price point, try and avoid test rides, as there are high probability they might have been crashed. Check the VIN number and cross check with the RC papers.
Cheers!
VJ
Thank you so much for all the inputs I am expecting a expense of around 20k as I wish to make the bike as good as possible as this will be my daily driver. Abs was working fine my only concern is the FI pump any clue how much does it cost.
You ought to have them connect the diag tool and run a check. it might show up what the issue is.
definitely a risk buying something that has a known issue.. because these are difficult to fix if stranded in remote location. so it's better you understand what is causing that warning light to come up.
it could a wiring issue, bad battery, some bad sensor, or a problem in the fi (not enough pressure?). ask them to connect their diag tool and check, and you keep an eye on the diag tool since these guys will simply clear the error without fixing it and show you that the diag tool reports no errors.
Yes will do that tomorrow. Thank you so much this will be really helpful. Altoughh I have been informed that the bike was thoroughly serviced last month. I doubt their words though.
1984 YEZDI 250 CLASSIC My dads SBK 1987 YEZDI 250 CLII On a Vacation!!!!
2005 Pulsar 150 UG 2 with ma cousin 2006 Pulsar 180 UG 3 - For Experimenting 2007 Pulsar 220 DTS-Fi SOLD 2010 Pulsar 220 DTS-i - Sold 2015 PULSAR AS 200 - Sold
2013 KTM DUKE 390 - Current Ride
From what I can see from the pictures, especially coming to your last picture, you can see the engine mount is cracked (that aluminum cast Y part) is cracked which means it can give up any time during riding. Front fender mud flap is missing, lots of oil leak near the left crank case and there is a head gasket weep, and wiring has been frayed as I can see blue taping towards the right, these are the things I can see with the pics and the angles you have taken. With regards to fuel injection or MIL lamp that keeps glowing on the console, get the wiring checked and check if there are any error codes in the ECU and erase them.
Check the engine oil level, coolant level, chain life before taking delivery, make sure they are adequate and to the right level. Check your ABS unit for proper working of the unit. Though I understand you're getting it at a attractive price point, try and avoid test rides, as there are high probability they might have been crashed. Check the VIN number and cross check with the RC papers.
Cheers!
VJ
Checkout if air-filter box is having any crack or not. I would suggest you to get the radiator fan replaced too as your D390 is from first generation so its having open type radiator fan(no fan cover) which throws hot air directly to the legs and believe me its really hot, even the pillion feels discomfortable because of the same.
Thank you so much for all the inputs I am expecting a expense of around 20k as I wish to make the bike as good as possible as this will be my daily driver. Abs was working fine my only concern is the FI pump any clue how much does it cost.
Yes will do that tomorrow. Thank you so much this will be really helpful. Altoughh I have been informed that the bike was thoroughly serviced last month. I doubt their words though.
The engine mil light that lights up does not always mean a fault with FI.. it could be any other thing as well. So get it diagnosed using their scan tool to find what is causing it.
the blue taping is all normal i guess (not related to any wiring mods). but as vj pointed out, you definitely need to get the engine mount replaced (The Y thingy).. it doesn't cost much.
The fuel pump itself costs around 5k.
Parts on the 390 are pretty economical when you compare it say something like an r15 or a cbr.
another thing you can check is to drain both the oil and coolant and inspect them.. if oil looks milky/greyish white or you see traces of oil in coolant (which should normally appear green), then you might be in for more expensive repairs.
And remember to change all fluids.. oil, coolant, brake fluids when you pick up the bike.
if you are getting it dirt cheap (80k?)and are comfortable fixing it up, then its a good deal.. 15k would more than suffice to fix it up if the engine is in good shape.. i.e. no oil consumption/smoke and has good compression.
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