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**kanishka007** · 12-16-2010, 06:39 PM

Originally posted by kantu View Post

Good , if you are interested in what s going on inside your engine just check old engine oil for some metal peices

hmm alright, thanks

**abhishekch** · 12-16-2010, 07:25 PM

Originally posted by kanishka007 View Post

whats that 0-60 on your silencer?

thats 0 minus 60=-60

search 0-60 with google you will get it.

**avi91** · 12-17-2010, 03:11 PM

Guyz i am getting a sound from the silencer..as if some chip is loose..like an empty sound wenever i pull my bike or carry pillion..what can it be??

here are some pics wen i took my bike...done 1800kms till now.. changed engine oil twice..the tvs guy didnt chnge the engine oil but charged me for it in the 1st service..i hate dem...i got to knw from a local mechanic..he said my engine was overheating..the engine oil was burnt..i'll show u the pic of that later..

देखने के लिए लॉग इन या साइन अप करें

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1759825783&aid=26382

Facebook पर पोस्ट, फ़ोटो और बहुत कुछ देखें.

**rennycornelius** · 12-17-2010, 05:51 PM

Originally posted by social View Post

Don't know.. but I've hardly felt any gear shifting changes when I shifted to Power 1 from Castrol Activ....

The gear shifting was always good (my friends also find it smooth)... If we shift at the correct rpms it never is a problem..

TRUE.

It's all the head game that after putting good/expensive/heard a lot about oil and feel oh it's making all the diffrences.

The RTR's 'box is notchy, and unless and untill you wont downshift without blipping the throttle it'll feel super duper notchy.

**Garry_Menace** · 12-17-2010, 10:34 PM

Friends,

Actually, I was feeling some increase in vibrations at high-RPMs and loss in low-end pulling power after some tuning (I asked the SVC guy to tune for better FE), so, today I richen'ed the mixture by 1/4 revolution. Now, I'm feeling somehow lesser vibes but the low-end pulling power is again the same... not as in other RTR180s or as it was before tuning. I want to know if tappet adjustment also plays a part in that.... and the clutch settings also. If yes, then what clutch setting ( making it tighter or looser) will increase that pulling power back to normal?

EDIT: Also, I'm feeling a slight lag/hiccup while I open the throttle suddenly (not gradually) to full or half throttle. I've noticed this lag after that tuning. Is it normal to have lag on sudden twisting of throttle or it shows something wrong with the tuning?

**Drifty** · 12-17-2010, 10:52 PM

The tappet noise becomes audible when I ride the bike for 30-40kms or more.When the engine cools down, the next day when I start it,no tappet noise.I asked the TVS sc guy to adjust the tappets but he said that the noise will decrease after logging some kms.So should I get the tappets adjusted or is it normal???

**social** · 12-17-2010, 11:23 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Friends,

Actually, I was feeling some increase in vibrations at high-RPMs and loss in low-end pulling power after some tuning (I asked the SVC guy to tune for better FE), so, today I richen'ed the mixture by 1/4 revolution. Now, I'm feeling somehow lesser vibes but the low-end pulling power is again the same... not as in other RTR180s or as it was before tuning. I want to know if tappet adjustment also plays a part in that.... and the clutch settings also. If yes, then what clutch setting ( making it tighter or looser) will increase that pulling power back to normal?

EDIT: Also, I'm feeling a slight lag/hiccup while I open the throttle suddenly (not gradually) to full or half throttle. I've noticed this lag after that tuning. Is it normal to have lag on sudden twisting of throttle or it shows something wrong with the tuning?

You're running lean. Warm up the bike nice and then rotate the a/f screw. half a turn anti-clockwise.... and blip the throttle to see the response. Rotate the a/f screw till you are satisfied with the throttle response...

No use running the bike lean for better fuel efficiency. This bike is not meant for fuel efficiency and running leaner actually stresses the engine more. Ride below 5k and watch your mileage go up

**Garry_Menace** · 12-17-2010, 11:36 PM

Originally posted by social View Post

You're running lean. Warm up the bike nice and then rotate the a/f screw. half a turn anti-clockwise.... and blip the throttle to see the response. Rotate the a/f screw till you are satisfied with the throttle response...

No use running the bike lean for better fuel efficiency. This bike is not meant for fuel efficiency and running leaner actually stresses the engine more. Ride below 5k and watch your mileage go up

LOL

Yeah, I want the same back (the same FE that was prior to tuning if okay with the performance). Well, I think I did the richening-up part. Is it required to richen it further?

(As I didn't see any major difference in the FE, I don't think I was running much leaner. So, turned the A/F screw only 1/4 trun anti-clockwise.)

And extending my previous post further, after that tuning done by the SVC guy, I also noticed that the bike is overheating. When turned back to SVC some days later, the same guy took test ride and himself recognised that its overheating. He said that he'll resolve it but the problem still persists.

**social** · 12-17-2010, 11:44 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

LOL

Yeah, I want the same back (the same FE that was prior to tuning if okay with the performance). Well, I think I did the richening-up part. Is it required to richen it further?

(As I didn't see any major difference in the FE, I don't think I was running much leaner. So, turned the A/F screw only 1/4 trun anti-clockwise.)

And extending my previous post further, after that tuning done by the SVC guy, I also noticed that the bike is overheating. When turned back to SVC some days later, the same guy took test ride and himself recognised that its overheating. He said that he'll resolve it but the problem still persists.

You'll have to richen the mixture more... rotate it by half a turn, take a ride.. If not satisfied turn it another half rotation... take a ride...

**kantu** · 12-18-2010, 01:36 AM

Originally posted by Drifty View Post

The tappet noise becomes audible when I ride the bike for 30-40kms or more.When the engine cools down, the next day when I start it,no tappet noise.I asked the TVS sc guy to adjust the tappets but he said that the noise will decrease after logging some kms.So should I get the tappets adjusted or is it normal???

I also have same issue but the sc people didnt do anything

**social** · 12-18-2010, 10:46 AM

What's tappet noise

**Arsenic** · 12-18-2010, 12:20 PM

^^^
Tappet noise is the irritatting knocking sound the engine emits when it heats up and becomes more intense with more heat. It is harmless but it'll irritate the hell out of you.

BTW guys, i've been a mute spectator all these months since i joined xbhp reading your expert comments. And i really found them better than the svc or the local mechanic guys. I need an honest suggestion today....
My RTR is 5.5k old and i m looking for oil that goes well with the 180, please suggest should i go for synthetic or semi? Whats the difference? Cost is no problem just suggest me the BEST oil for my RTR.
Awaiting your response asap guys...i have to change the oil today..

P.S: TVS tru4 sucks

**SAMUEL-Fi** · 12-18-2010, 01:31 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

And extending my previous post further, after that tuning done by the SVC guy, I also noticed that the bike is overheating. When turned back to SVC some days later, the same guy took test ride and himself recognised that its overheating. He said that he'll resolve it but the problem still persists.

Well that's the telltale sign of lean mixture...

**social** · 12-18-2010, 01:52 PM

Originally posted by Arsenic View Post

^^^
Tappet noise is the irritatting knocking sound the engine emits when it heats up and becomes more intense with more heat. It is harmless but it'll irritate the hell out of you.

BTW guys, i've been a mute spectator all these months since i joined xbhp reading your expert comments. And i really found them better than the svc or the local mechanic guys. I need an honest suggestion today....
My RTR is 5.5k old and i m looking for oil that goes well with the 180, please suggest should i go for synthetic or semi? Whats the difference? Cost is no problem just suggest me the BEST oil for my RTR.
Awaiting your response asap guys...i have to change the oil today..

P.S: TVS tru4 sucks

You can switch to either SS or full synthetic. I am currently using Power 1 which is SS. Haven't felt much difference compared to Castrol Activ 4t that I was using earlier. But the oil is pretty good (Engine does not heat up quickly and everything is as smooth as an RTR can get

)

I think SS is the best way to go if you ride in a city. Just change it at 1.5k km interval religiously and the bike should remain in prime condition... FS is at least 2-3 time more expensive though they last longer (but I doubt we should extend it beyond 2.5k km)

AND, STICK TO xW40 grade...

**Arsenic** · 12-18-2010, 05:55 PM

FS oil for RTR 180

Thanks mate, i've switched to Full Synthtic Petronas Sprinta 5000 10w40...it costs 450 rupees!
Anyway what matters is performance...lets see how it scores
After the oil change i rode it for around 10kms @ ~50kph and i found that up shifts and even shifting down have become smoother without playing with the accelerator...so hoping this FS oil would do wonders!

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