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TVS Apache RTR 180
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Lean the AFR gradually and test the high speed. Till you reach a point where the top speeds satisfactory and at the same time the bike doesnt flutter at redline.Originally posted by ayashkm View PostMotorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Sorry didn't get the issue. Is it like you are in mid traffic and after 'thud' sound the bike stalls?Originally posted by geek-boy View PostHey Guys!
I have completed 11,000 km on my Apache RTR 180 and have no major complaints so far but recently my bike stalls when zipping through heavy traffic...how ever the issue is there is a loud 'Thud' sound emitted when it happens as if something hammered the engine from the inside..never happened before...is it normal?
It won't, you have to cut it near the exhaust pipe area. Not a big issue, can be done with jugaadOriginally posted by ginni.verma View Posti own a cbz xtreme ...
i just want to know that can i fit the tvs apache rtr's engine under cowl aka engine cover on it...
any other alternatives for it are welcomed...
Fare thee well xBhp, All the best for being the biggest name in corporate world
FAQs-RTR owners
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You can go ahead with checking the tappet clearance.Sometimes,a richer A/F mixture makes the idle rpm unstable so make the mixture a bit leaner and see if the rpm comes down gradually.Originally posted by saipranav View PostValve clearance setting can be a probability, but since the bike is very smooth and the tappets are not making any kind of noise even after 18kms of ripping made me feel they are not the culprit...
Do, you think i should still check them? Or go ahead with AFR tuning?
AFAIK,you can only make the fuel rich/lean by changing the position of the jet needle.When you remove the jet needle from the piston valve,you can see there are 3 adjustment slots in the BS-29 carb jet needle.The clip if set at highest position will lean the mixture while if set at lowest position will make the mixture too rich.The factory set position is the middle slot.Originally posted by ayashkm View PostHallo Dewey!
Thanks for the elaborate description of steps and also the photo documents of the diassembled carburator. I have a few queries.
1. Is it possible to adjust to adjust the float tang in order to increase the fuel height in float chamber?
2. Is is possible to adjust the needle jet so as to make the AFR rich?
3. Is it possible to adjust the needle of needle jet to make the AFr rich.
Waiting for you response.
Adding a few pics of the jet needle..
In this pic,the needle has 3 slots,the clip is set at the highest position which will make the mixture too lean.Hope you got it.
D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning
Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb
A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.
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Any idea about the price.Originally posted by Rtrlover83 View PostUpdate.
Guy's I've been to the SVC today. Saw the new RTR's for real. IMO, they looked great
People would go for the new RTR's for sure. The photos definitely not doing justice here.
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Did you took any pics? Any idea about if we can have the headlights on our "classic" apaches?Originally posted by Rtrlover83 View PostUpdate.
Guy's I've been to the SVC today. Saw the new RTR's for real. IMO, they looked great
People would go for the new RTR's for sure. The photos definitely not doing justice here.
Apache RTR 180 2011 | Honda Activa 2010 | CBZ Xtreme 2010 (1 month) |Apache 160 FI 2009-2010
Bajaj Kristal 2007-2011
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+1 That is the only thing which in my bike looks incomplete or like missing something, If it is a direct fit and costs around 1k, I'll switch to it immediately.Originally posted by Krish1417 View PostDid you took any pics? Any idea about if we can have the headlights on our "classic" apaches?
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Yes and no...the bike stalls with a loud thud...i've been using the bike for 2 years now and this thing recently started happening...i know the sound a bike makes when it stalls but in my case the sound is just too loud (as i said its like some one's hammering it from the inside)Originally posted by prateek2210 View PostSorry didn't get the issue. Is it like you are in mid traffic and after 'thud' sound the bike stalls?
"A brother might stab you in the back, a woman certainly will, but a bike will never let you down." ―Johnny Klebitz
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Originally posted by geek-boy View PostYes and no...the bike stalls with a loud thud...i've been using the bike for 2 years now and this thing recently started happening...i know the sound a bike makes when it stalls but in my case the sound is just too loud (as i said its like some one's hammering it from the inside)
Are you sure it isnt the Engine Kill Switch loose contact? Is the sound similar to when you kill the engine?It's always better to lose a second in life than to lose life in a second!
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Same happened with me bro does it happen frequently or only the bike is cold startedOriginally posted by geek-boy View PostYes and no...the bike stalls with a loud thud...i've been using the bike for 2 years now and this thing recently started happening...i know the sound a bike makes when it stalls but in my case the sound is just too loud (as i said its like some one's hammering it from the inside)
Try warming up bike first then give it a try your problem will be solved .....i hope
Clutch is doing this due to cold start try this and telll.......
-=Live to Ride=-
2006 Hero Honda, Passion Plus-Black Blue
2011 TVS Apache, RTR-180 ABS-White (Stolen)
2013-KTM, Duke 200-White
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Originally posted by geek-boy View PostYes and no...the bike stalls with a loud thud...i've been using the bike for 2 years now and this thing recently started happening...i know the sound a bike makes when it stalls but in my case the sound is just too loud (as i said its like some one's hammering it from the inside)
Kindly take your bike to SVC ASAP. The same is the issue due to failing one way clutch.There's lot to it other than saddle....
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Hallo Drifty!
Thanks a lot for the detailed photograph of the needle as well as the schematic diagram. It it indeed helpful. I am interested to check any clogging of the main jet. If I find it clear, I shall change the needle height towards richer side.
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Wow. Great post. Do all the things that you told apply to RTR160 as well? I'm looking to get a good carb tuning. So, approximately how many revolutions from the leanest side should the screw be turned to get half way(The 'stock' position as per your pic)?Originally posted by Drifty View PostYou can go ahead with checking the tappet clearance.Sometimes,a richer A/F mixture makes the idle rpm unstable so make the mixture a bit leaner and see if the rpm comes down gradually.
AFAIK,you can only make the fuel rich/lean by changing the position of the jet needle.When you remove the jet needle from the piston valve,you can see there are 3 adjustment slots in the BS-29 carb jet needle.The clip if set at highest position will lean the mixture while if set at lowest position will make the mixture too rich.The factory set position is the middle slot.
Adding a few pics of the jet needle..
In this pic,the needle has 3 slots,the clip is set at the highest position which will make the mixture too lean.Hope you got it.

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+1.May be its the one way clutch issue.Originally posted by nox2505 View PostKindly take your bike to SVC ASAP. The same is the issue due to failing one way clutch.
Originally posted by ayashkm View PostHallo Drifty!
Thanks a lot for the detailed photograph of the needle as well as the schematic diagram. It it indeed helpful. I am interested to check any clogging of the main jet. If I find it clear, I shall change the needle height towards richer side.The same thing applies to most of the bikes including the RTR160.If you are referring to the Air-Fuel mixture screw(shown in the below pic),then its around 3 and a half turns from the leanest position,that would be the optimum mixture.Originally posted by pcgamer View PostWow. Great post. Do all the things that you told apply to RTR160 as well? I'm looking to get a good carb tuning. So, approximately how many revolutions from the leanest side should the screw be turned to get half way(The 'stock' position as per your pic)?
If you are looking towards changing the needle jet clip position,then setting the clip at lowest position will make the mixture too rich.It has most of the effect between 1/4th and 3/4th throttle.The engine will sputter with fuel and you can experience lazy kinda feeling in the mid range rpms if you set the clip at that setting.Best,you can add thin washers to increase the height of the needle jet by a 'little' margin which will allow 'slightly' more fuel to pass through it.This will serve your purpose if you have a free flow air filter installed in your bike.
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Last edited by Drifty; 04-29-2012, 11:57 PM.
D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning
Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb
A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.
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