Regular chains needed a lot of lube so that it would penetrate and lube the mating surfaces of each individual link. This excessive lubing required that the chain be sealed in a chain case otherwise it would pick up dirt and grime from the road and spoil the chain and sprockets. Sealed o-ring chains meant that the lubing of each link, was taken care of internally. So they could be left exposed. However, a very important point which chicane pointed out is the lubing between the chain and sprockets. Any mechanical device which is in contact with another surface needs to be lubed. What i would suggest is first cleaning the chain thoroughly by whatever method you find ideal, however, be careful when using a solvent based product as it may spoil the o-rings. Then use a good quality chain lube to thoroughly lube the chain. Run the bike in gear on the mainstand for about 5 minutes so that the lube works its way everywhere. Then wipe off the bottom (outside), and both sides of the chain with a clean cloth. These surfaces do not contact anywhere and do not require continuous lubing. Leave the inside edge of the chain where it contacts the sprockets lubed. Most mechs these days still use the old methods of lubing and leave a gooey mess which attracts all sorts of rubbish. And i can't for the life of me understand why they put so much grease/oil on the outer surface of the chain. It doesn't touch anything!

I own Matt Grey RTR 180, should i go for lacquer coating!!
will it protect the paint?

But the matt grey now looks like it's been laquered

Thanks a ton for the detailed explaination, will be lubing it with the motul chain spray then, cuz regular oil will end up making it home for the sludge.

I would also like to add that proper lubing will reduce rust and corrosion and operating temperature of the components in contact i.e sprockets.A lack of lubrication increases friction between these surfaces,which would increase the working temperature of the components. This higher than normal temperature will result in components becoming less effective, therefore increasing chain wear. Lubricant between roller and the bushings will decrease friction and heat, and will in turn improve the efficiency of the drive, extending chain and sprocket's life.

Chain spray has a perfect consistency, unlike any ratio of oil/grease mixed with kerosene. Almost like a thicker wd-40. I haven't used it here, but in muscat. Some american brand, not 3m. And the chain still looks lovely. Just have to wipe off the non-mating parts.

How about a spray of WD-40 only???

Try the new Tru 4 chain spray from TVS, should work well coz its meant for the RTR only.

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It stands for Water Displacement#40!!

It is used to replace water and moisture from the metallic surfaces threby reducing the chances of rust/corrosion. And there is a highly debatable rumour/fact that the compound used in WD-40 could possibly dissolve the lubricants present inside the O-rings.

You can use WD-40 for cleaning purposes only but not solely for lubing.

Try the new Tru 4 chain spray from TVS, should work well coz its meant for the RTR only.

Guys tell me something, whenever you go for servicing your bike at the svc or with some problems, do they ask you to keep your bike for a day at least? Or do they do the needful while you wait at the svc at hand over your bike after that?

heheh still facing problem with u r svc guys those saha guys are really lazy a** need 3 days to service 8 bikes it is better to complain to higher authority at least they deserve that

Nops, not never.

Unless you visit the service after 2-3P.M or you have some major problem/work to be done. They should not keep the bike's meant for free services for overnight job.

Guys tell me something, whenever you go for servicing your bike at the svc or with some problems, do they ask you to keep your bike for a day at least? Or do they do the needful while you wait at the svc at hand over your bike after that?