I researched a bit and did it myself. Hopefully I turned the right screw. Is it the small golden screw beside the idle rpm setting screw. I turned it anti-clockwise (it was at 9oclock. I turned it to 6oclock and now it is in vertical position). The engine was sufficiently warm as I rode about 4-5 kms before experimenting. The bike was switched off when I did this.

I felt the difference immediately after. Lesser kicks and the power in each gear was a lot better. Earlier I could feel vibes in 4k region. Now they creep in only around 5k region and the bike has never felt smoother.

Just one problem. The bike idles normally at 1.4k but whenever I ride for a few kms, the bike idles around 2-2.2k. Is this a problem as it hasn't affected the performance.

Thanks!

weird problem!

hey guys, I'm facing a really weird problem with my 5k+ kms old rtr 180. When I start my bike and turn the handle bar completely towards the right side the RPM drops below 1k and the engine gets switched off When I ride my bike for sometime and come to a halt in red signal then the rpm gets hanged at 2k and again when I turn my handle bar towards the right side it comes down. What could be the reason for this weird behaviour of my bike? What could be the link between handle bar and engine rpm

my bike has just completed its 5th free service last week and she is going to be an year old this sep30th

Both the oil are of 10W40 rating.
and both satisfy(API - SL and JASO MA) compliance.

You can refer to the link below.
Shell Advance - Products - India

i am about to change the oil withing next few days. Please let me know or else there is Motul with semisynthetic(2040) or MOTUL5100...i dont want to go for 3000V FS oil....

Exchanging the bikes wont change the bikes character or response, right

Fi wakes up after 4-4.5k rpm whereas 180 has a more chunkier spread of power. But it loses out of steam much earlier as compared to the Fi which has a better top-end grunt.Even at 3k rpm under full throttle input the bike builds up speed without any fuss.

You need to check the throttle cable for slackness as it might have got stuck with the handlebar stem. Replace the cable if required.

"That" would have helped me to ride the 180 extensively

FI is all happy when i'll be puttring it aroud the city at 2500 RPM in 5th, all day long, but for that i have to come down from high RPM's, further more, it wont allow sudden inputs, and even the slightest of immediate opening of the throttle at that time,will result in knocking,(to eliminate that, i have to drop three gears (come to 2nd)

I tried the same with the 180, and it knocked at the first, though that machine had too much clutch play,plus it was running lean(test drive bike).

But like you said full fisted inputs at the 3000 RPM in 5th, without compression knock,strain, and above all "Knocking" is huge.
i can only dream the same in FI.

Hell, if i'am gonna open throttle at 1800-2200 RPM in first with full fisted treatment, in FI, it knocks. You have to launch FI at about 4000 rpm (blip the moving bike, leave the clutch) for that grin on your face, and "Shit" expression on the other's, at the signal, for that manic rush of RPM of that injection.

As far as the "grunt" goes, the FI fades out at 9500RPM, no useful power beyond that, not for a single more RPM, but the mad sound from that "no cat" exhaust just keeps you pinning it, till you reach that magic 10000-11000 RPM , it happened the same with the 180,all power till 9200-9800,after that,end of the show.

FI goes from 5000-9000, atleast 2-3 sces quicker than the 180, the crispness in lot better,and all show above 5000RPM.

Congrats buddy!!!!!!! M new to this blog...By the way m getting mine by this weekend!!!!!yuppyyyyyyyyy!!

Welcome

First of all, Welcome to XBHP, hope you enjoy your stay here. And congrats for your RTR 180. Do fill us up with your experience and photos.

Thanks Chicane. ill check that

Guys i am also having this problem "The bike idles normally at 1.4k but whenever I ride for a few kms, the bike idles around 2-2.2k. Is this a problem as it hasn't affected the performance."

But in my case it goes upto 3k. Sometimes it stays there and sometimes it comes back to 1.1k idiling. Bike accelerates good. So is there something wrong with the tuning of the bike or ?

One more thing(good), after cleaning the Carburettor sump the hicupps have gone. Mech told that there was no dirt in it but there was some water.

I never faced knocking in my FI whenever it was in a proper state of tune.....

sure i ll..have good time..but just wanted to knw ,how well this bike performs????

Dude, let's just say, it blows the competetion away!! provided you know the weakness and strengths of the bike. What colour are you going for?

P.S. use quotes,makes the conversation much organised and clean.

OT -

Which is a better riding technique while slowing down:
- using half clutch in 2nd or even 3rd gear to keep moving
- decrease gears and minimize clutch usage

Thanks!

the second one...

minimising the clutch usage wherever possible is gud thing for the machine

u guys need a better perfomance without doing any fingers in d engine? ......tell ur mechanick 2 alter d clutch,make few holes in d clutch hub,nd add 1 extra pressure plate....nw my 180 goes 0-60 = 2.7 secs nd 144 top end...

^^source : Apache RTR 150/160/EFi/180 | Facebook


how the hell can a person make holes in the clutch ?
i think that person is insane